poodlefan

Poodles: large laundry tub (I chose the deepest largest one I could find) with a veggie spray tap. The bottom is covered with a non-slip rubber mat with a hole cut out for the plug hole. I also had a small tastic fitted in the laundry to keep it warm in winter - spoiled devils!! Whippet: Bath tub with a handshower (on two way tap fitting) on a non-slip bath mat. Poodles: every two to three weeks - the white girl more often than the black boys Howie - every one or two weeks as he's shown. I wash his front legs more often due to his lousy aim.

Try really hard to handle a set before you commit to buy. How they "feel" in the hand is important. I've had Wahl and Andis and way prefer the Andis - sealed unit means they don't need servicing either.

Sue Sternberg made a similar observation when she attended the Australian APBT seminar a few years back. Her shelter imported rescue dogs from southern states as she said many of the dogs surrendered locally were unsuitable for rehoming. She referred to them as "urban crime" dogs - bred, raised and used to intimidate - "weapons" if you like. She'd seen pups as young as three weeks displaying aggression towards people. I recall her remarking that spay neuter campaigns had been highly successful amongst responsible dog owners. That didn't leave many "pets" available for adoption locally.

Wouldn't it be nice to see these stats turned around into: "Breeds most likely to be bred and bought by ignorant/irresponsible people" or "Breeds most likely to be bought for image enhancement or "security" purposes" or "Breeds least likely to be socialised, allowed inside, desexed or to receive obedience training" Because whilst breed is a part of the issue, the factors above play just as large a role.

No, I don't have kids. However I have a strong interest in dog aggression and have read extensively into what factors see dogs attack people. I know that your son is in the highest risk group for a bite and that this dog will grow into an extremely powerful animal. I have socialised every one of my pups with dog savvy kids. I consider that my responsibility as a dog owner to ensure no child is at risk from my dogs. Even so, I'd never allow any child to interefere with them when eating or sleeping. I have seen a number of aggression incidents involving kids, food and dogs over the years - like you, none serious. An attack doesn't have to be fatal to scar a child both physically and mentally for life. The facts are that most bites are on male children aged under 4, in the family home and by the family dog. Many of those dogs are well loved, well trained animals. You were lucky as a child. You may be lucky with your child and I certainly hope so. But no child safety expert or dog trainer I know of recommends what you're doing. For what it's worth, if I did have young kids, I'd not do what you're doing. I'd be feeding each and every meal to the dog in its locked crate. I'd never advise any of the dog owners I train to do otherwise. Once your son is older, that's a different story. But right now he hasn't the ability to read dog body language nor does he have great impulse control. Warning: link below contains graphic photo of child bite victim. Here's another article from a highly respected dog trainer about preventing dog bites on kids. Bear in mind that most dog bites on toddlers are inflicted on the head. It's interesting that Mr Leerburg's reaction to the photos of the Neo with the baby mirrored mine when I first saw them circulated by email. My blood ran cold. Most people I know thought they were cute. Most people know bugger all about dogs and dog body language. Its that lack of knowledge and their belief that dangerous dogs are the ones that bite people that sees so many kids taken to hospital every year. They simply cant' see that the dog that poses the biggest threat to their kids is their loveable family pet. Failure to separate and failure to supervise is the common link to most dog bites on kids. It is really that simple. I honestly doubt your pup sees your son as prey. Pups will practice stalking one another and many puppy games aim to prepare a pup for adult life as a canine. What you will prevent with separation and supervision is her EVER seeing him as competiton or a threat. What your son wants in terms of his interaction with this pup can't be allowed to dictate how you handle this. He's too young to understand her or that his actions have consequences with her. As the parent you must set the ground rules for both to follow. Put a child lock on her pen. You need to prevent him letting her out without your knowledge. My guess is that it wont' be long before he tries. Here's a pediatric medicine article on preventing dog bites on kids Here's another on dog safety for kids

Whatever rocks your boat Sure beats "dating websites" for dogs at any rate. :D

It does sound like the pup is dreaming. Movement when dreaming goes all the way up to whimpering, legs paddlng as if running and body twitches. Its quite normal. A google search on "canine epilepsy" will give you a lot of hits. One thing you will notice if you do some reading is that fits in baby puppies are extremely rare.

The first rule I advise any puppy owner is never to allow any behaviour in a pup that you don't want to see in a full grown dog. What young kids need first and foremost is to be kept safe. I said it all in the previous thread where quite a few folk advised against allowing your son to interact with your dog when she's eating. You were given good reasons as to why your plan to have your son touch your dogs food was not a great one. Dogs, kids and food make for quite a few bite statistics. Your dog, your son, your decision. I just hope you do some research on this issue and particularly on dog behaviour. Your dog will not resent that your son cannot be near her when she eats. Chances are she'll appeciate having her meal in peace. Two elements that any child needs to learn about respecting dogs: leave them alone when they are sleeping and eating. Failure in this plan may have dire consequences for your child and believe me many families have learned that the hard way. You were also told that your plan to have your dog respect your 2 year old would not work. She needs to respect you and you need to ensure that her behaviour is acceptable. Your son will be incapable of achieving this for some years yet. No doubt you'll think me "nasty" once again for this post but PLEASE read some articles on dogs and child safety. Your plan runs contrary to both child safety agencies and dog trainers advice. ETA: Here's a Kidsafe Article you may find useful. It contains advice specifically for the parents of 2 and 3 year old children.

A search on threads with RSPCA in their title should throw some light on the subject. For me, I object to any law enforcement agency (and the RSPCA does this) having power without oversight. The RSPCA is answerable to no one and has the power to seize dogs and ruin people emotionally and financially without them having recourse to any form of relief. They do great good and great harm. They need oversight.

With most martingales I've seen, the slack in the loop allows the collar to go over the head and then tightens to prevent it coming off. Once fitted, no adjustment is necesary.

Only the webbing ones are fiddly. Leather ones with a buckle aren't. I don't find anything remotely fiddly about the Blackdog sighthound collars. :p

As Howie is a Whippet, I use a martingale collar because any other kind would slip off his head if he pulled back. I never leave one on him when he is unsupervised. They are a choke hazard.

I don't think there is a consensus. My view is that group classes are not the ideal start to rehabilitating a reactive dog. If the trainer was prepared to have the dog there that's their prerogative. However I'd not be thinking less of a trainer that wanted one on one time with the dog before allowing it near other dogs in class nor for turning it down.

Great news. I'd also suggest some chiro with the rest.

Yep! They fold flat for transport and you can get covers for them too.

I have to agree with this in general... my dog was lunged at, growled at and barked at in an aggressive manner by two different dogs last night at our group training classes and it's not a nice experience. In the case of my Toy Poodle - lunging and barking dogs led her to shut down. She could not train in that environment and I had to withdraw her from that class and wait for another. The other thing to consider (not in the OPs case Id say) is that some dogs become more reactive because the handler is none too savvy. When all that stands between your dog and a potential attack is a fairly clueless hander (some just can't seem to notice what their dog is focussed on or keep them at a distance) and in some cases a very cheap collar and lead, its a sobering thought. A snapped clip, or letting the dog wander too close and its on

Well all I can say is if people are judging my dog husbandry by my inclination to garden, I shall await the arrival of an RSPCA inspector shortly. My weeds can only be described as spectacular. But I am gardening tomorrow - I promise I did say "perhaps"....lol... Don't have one of these at your place do you? I could use it.

Good point FHRP - Securapens are great!

Moselle: Well all I can say is if people are judging my dog husbandry by my inclination to garden, I shall await the arrival of an RSPCA inspector shortly. My weeds can only be described as spectacular. But I am gardening tomorrow - I promise

Destinations only.. and always inside and in the bedroom or laundry with a cover on top. As well as being used at home. He travels on the back seat of the car in a harness For ease of transport then, I'd be opting for a well constructed soft crate if he's not destructive. Something like a K9Royale would be good - it has a steel frame and is very well ventilated.

Will the crate be used in the car or just at your destinations?

Dawwwww ;)

Surely a group environment is the best place to sort out a reactive dog. I am happy that the trainers who couldn't deal with Tango were upfront about that fact, but I am glad there are those out there who are willing to take on a challenge and make a difference. Before you get too glad, ask yourself if all every other member of a group class should have to act as a training aid for you and this dog because the trainer is "up for a challenge and willing to make a difference". Reactive dogs freak a lot of dogs and owners out. That they should have to be confronted with one and to train around it for its benefit and without their consent is neither fair, not conducive to effective learning IMO. Trying to maintain focus on trainer and dog when you are concerned about your dog's safety is not fun. Dog aggressive dogs need their issues sorted BEFORE they go to group classes. To do otherwise is to risk incidents that may harm the progress of the reactive dog and the well being of other class members. Not every dog owner is savvy enough to give a reactive dog the space it needs. Not every dog has the temperament that is suitable for dealing with one in class either. Those other handlers pay for training too.

Turn a blind eye to what? It is not against any animal welfare law to breed multiple breeds or to do so regularly. What basis would you suggest the RSPCA has to turn up other than a baseless complaint from a member of the public?? Are you in favour of the RSPCA having the authority to drop by based on the fact that someone has views about the level of tidiness of your property? Rangers would have more reason if they're failing to comply with council regs. But how do we know they are?

Has he actually bitten anyone? I'd be wanting a behavioural assessment before considering rehoming. Some clubs probably hold the view that a group class for a highly reactive dog is neither in the dog's interests nor theirs. I'm inclined to agree. A lot of obedience trainers aren't skilled enough to deal with dog aggression and the smarter ones know it.