poodlefan

Looks to me like you're staring down the barrel of permanent separation unless you can find someway of correcting the pup's behaviour without distressing the older dog. Time for professional help I think. I think strong aversives may be called for. Even with that, I think separation will be the safest option for the older dog. This is not a combination I'd have recommended if harmony between the two dogs was your aim.

In the case of my dogs presenting me with toys, its been reinforced by the fact I throw them for them..

I think I tend to agree with this well in my case any how, My youngest does this when we come home, he will go to the toy box and grab something or if there is a toy on the floor he will grab it. He also does it first thing in the morning, if tyhere is something in his path from the crate to the bed he brings it with him, he is very soft mouthed and really only holds the objexct lightly. He is Poodle X Cocker and there is not much poodle in this boy at all, he has so many Cocker traits and I feel this is one of them. I hope he never stops it's so cute, apart from if he grabs a sock and one of the other 3 decide it is tug of war time holey socks for me!! One of my poodles and my Whippet both do this. Both retrieve also. tlc you know that poodles ARE originally a retrieving breed don't you.. ??

yep and they are still mongrels it was nice to revisit my pics of that gorgeous dog at the show :D Since this thread started I've returned to work part time and I can tell you I haven't missed the front ends so bad it make s clipping them difficult, the protruding jaws, bad temperaments and clicking patellas Technically they are F1 (first cross) crossbreds. :D ummm yeah, providing the parents were actually purebreds True. And as in the horse world, if you want a decent F1 Crossbred, you don't breed inferior animals. Breeding shite to shite gets you shite regardless of its breed or crossbreed.

yep and they are still mongrels it was nice to revisit my pics of that gorgeous dog at the show :D Since this thread started I've returned to work part time and I can tell you I haven't missed the front ends so bad it make s clipping them difficult, the protruding jaws, bad temperaments and clicking patellas Technically they are F1 (first cross) crossbreds.

But this one is! http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=209405 Its wearing a tutu!

William Koehler knew a hell of a lot more about dogs than to: * ever provide advice on dealing with aggressive behaviours in a dog he'd never met * suggest that a one size fits all approach would work just as well on high drive working GSDs as all other dogs * dispense advice to inexperienced dog owners dealing with aggression to "tackle the issue head on" on an internet forum. If you want to make Koehler your role model best you keep that in mind. You might also bear in mind that its not "political correctness" to attempt to deal with issues without confrontation. Cesar Milan may be willing to take a dog on and risk a bite but the likely outcome for a pet that does it to its owner is a needle. You might also note that he advises pet owners not to try his methods themselves. Few members of this forum oppose the use of physical or other corections in appropriate circumstances. They just don't see them as always the first tool out of the toolbox. Save the sermons on political correctness for another day.

It's not the politically correct answer - its based on observation. The Omega dog in my pack (a bitch) will not surrender food to the alpha - she'll take it and she'll defend it. Pack dynamics are not a straight hierarchical model - those notions went out the window decades ago. So spare me the accusations of political correctness and do your homework. Of course it matters what causes the reaction - its a primary determinant of how you deal with the issue. Meeting aggression head on is the fast track to escalating it, to provoking the dog into preemptive defence strikes AND to seeing owners get hurt. Many behaviorists regard resource guarding as a perfectly natural canine response - just not a desirable one. Like many natural canine behaviours, we manage what we cannot remove. This is instinct at work. We got the supposedly bigger brain for a reason. Your approach sees people bitten - and there's the lesson we never want a dog to learn - biting stops unwanted human behaviour. I prefer not to confront and to leave the serious issues to the professionals to resolve. I suggest you do the same. Your advice is potentially dangerous whether you realise it or not. You gave it to inexperienced dog owners - something you acknowledge is unsafe.

With such a large breed, I'd be taking the advice of experienced breeders and owners, starting with the person who bred him.

Sounding even better for anti-freeze. Is there a space in the yard where cars get worked on. Has the shed been checked thoroughly. Its pretty gobsmacking that a dog that sick didn't get to a vet. They may not be out of the woods with it yet.

It's not a Whippet or a Poodle

Jacqui: There's a considerable difference between not intentionally avoiding colours and deliberately breeding for them. Furthermore, with a 25% or thereabouts chance of breeding a blue dog with health issues why wouldn't decent breeders want to avoid the colour? What the public seek to buy and what breeders wish to produce may not be one and the same. I'd argue that not breeding to fulfull fads is responsible dog breeding.

Shed on a rental property could be a absolute hot spot for toxic chemicals. I hope its well ventilated and hard floored. Any diagonsis based on vomitting alone would be sheer guess work but I'd be starting by eliminating common toxins like anti-freeze. This does seem to fit the bill: I'd be looking for rat sac also.

Megan: Megan, you raise an issue I've been musing on. I've lost track of the number of times I've heard people suggest that growing up with dogs somehow prepares them for dog ownership. IMO it doesn't. Kids don't generally deal with the responsibilities of dog ownership on a day to day basis - that's down to parents (or good ones anyway). Kids (especially young ones) don't toilet train, exercise, feed, deal with health issues etc. Memories of the family dog tend to be fairly rosy. I'd suggest that growing up with a dog no more fully prepares you to be a dog owner than growing up with a family car prepares you to be a driver. The perspective and responsiblities are quite different.

Agree 100% In regards to the bit I've bolded - love it cause I've seen someone show their true colors and it was utterly awesome that others saw what they're honestly like It can be quite illuminating.

I find it useful to keep in touch with show folk I know, to talk to others in my breeds of interest and to hear of show results, litters etc I don't consider it any more or less reliable than any other form of social networking. You do end up with a bit of a feel for the character of people and I find that quite helpful.

Its enough to make you want to emigrate to NZ. Equerry has the right idea.

Do you have a puppy? I thought your dog was older now?

The first thing I'd advise you and your mum is NOT to try and move him with a collar grab. That's virtually guaranteed to get an aggressive response from some dogs - it can be a defensive move from them. The second thing I'd do is ask the behaviourist to return. This is resource guarding behaviour and you need strategies to manage it. I say manage because I honestly don't think you'll cure it. I"d be sleeping him in the room but in a crate. Crate training would be a good thing to do. Teach him the crate, not the bed, is his place. 55Chevy: Rubbish. Even the lowest rank dogs will resource guard under the right circumstances. Dominance is not the be all and end all of reasons for dog behaviour. "Punishing" aggression can lead to nasty consequences - let the professionals deal with this. Lets not forget that this situation was in part created by people. The dogs' just doing what comes naturally.

Are these related to the Treeing Walker Coonhound???

Thinking about this, although not "small" a Smooth Collie might tick a lot of boxes for you. Add them to your show visiting list.

In your situation, what ever you choose, either get a baby puppy to teach it about appropriate behaviour around cats OR get a dog that's already cat friendly.

I'd rather microchip than face the consequences of my dogs straying and losing a collar. Its a better risk IMO.

Got one of these in my agility class at the moment... very frustrating to teach. Dog is super high drive but rapidly learning to ignore handler and self reward.

If I were to have a real tree it would need to be fenced off. At least one of my boys would be thrilled that a tree was inside to mark. I have a little fake tree up high. RSPCA sell cut off pine trees. If you want the real deal, you can drive out to Gundaroo and get a properly shaped one. Linky to Christmas tree place here.