Sarah L

Have you had her since she was a young pup? If so when did this start to happen? Has she had any major scares that made her bolt and run? Is she desexed or not? either way also good idea to get a check up on her health just to make sure. There are some very good confidence building exercises that can be tried to help her. Can we have some more info on all the occasions when she does this. It would help with what exercises to give you and when to do them. When did she start this? Has the crate ever been used as a punishment? To clean the crate with you can try Bio-Zet washing powder, make a weak soluition up in a spray bottle, spray and leave it to dry, then wipe down with a damp cloth. Make sure you spray the wire as well not just the floor. This washing powder contains an amonia neutraliser. I hope you don't mind all the questions but it will give a clearer picture into why it may of happend and how to go about trying to help her get over it.

I tend to agree with Amhailte, not every behaviour is sinister or dominant. If the male dobe is undesexed then there is also a physical issue to take into account. Between 8 and 12months in male dogs who are not desexed then there is a greater influx of testosterone and other chemicals happening in the dog at this age. His testosterone will be higher at this point than when he is an adult dog. Its a maturing stage in the dog that can produce, confusion. In other words he can be trying to do all that you have taught him so far but his body and mind are at odds at the moment. This is why male dogs at this age are often accused of trying to assert dominance. They are more excitable, can't focus as much and can seem to lose what you have taught them. Dobes body's mature faster than their minds. What your dogs seems to be displaying with the leg rap and leaning on you may just be a sign also he needs conformation that he is still doing the right things. Training the dog as you normally would should pull him through this stage. If he still responds well then you know he is not being dominant. I would tend to resist any different tactics for a little while to see how he goes. as the dog needs more confirmation from you than change right now.

Lablover not sure what your question is, but you have got me intrigued. I actually don't know what a vibration collar is do tell us more. Are you sure this is not some kinky story you are going to tell us. I know professional handlers and their dogs can get quite lonley at times but I don't think we need to go that far All jokes aside I am interested in what this collar is. lablover you have made me laugh so many times and I mean this nice way. Keep up the good work I like a good sense of humour

You tried the right method just used the wrong things to start off with. Bones would be to high in value to begin this method with. Good luck in your lesson not long to go now.

Be very careful here as the class may not give you what you want. It will depend on whether you have a nurse or a trainer as your instructor. If you do not know anyone that owns a cat then this may be very difficult for you. Also a very steady cat who is used to dogs would be the best one to train yours on. A good way is for the cat to be in a carry crate for safety and the dog on a lead. The dog is allowed to go up to the crate and sniff. Count to 5 and recall your dog back to you and give it a high value reward. Let it go back to the crate and sniff and count ot 10 and recall the dog back to you again for a high value reward. You can also get the dog to sit next to the crate count to 5 then reward. Before letting the cat out of the crate the dog should be very good at being recalled from the crate, sitting next to the crate and lying down beside the crate and staying next to the crate while you take a few steps away from the crate. Reward the dog each time it does what you ask. The whole process gets repeated with the dog on lead and the cat out of the crate. The whole process should take about one week. Factors to be taken into consideration is the least amount of stress on both the dog and cat during training. If you www.google uk.com then go to Battersea Dogs Home they have a very good training program for getting dogs used to cats. Good on you for trying clicker training and writing up a program. Practise all your simple training clicker techniques though before trying to clicker train your dog on cats. Vickie is right do train them separatley If you are near Sydney then I can help you by using my cat. He is used to dogs and lives with a Bull Mastiff x Great Dane. They both give me endless entertainment watching them play together :p they have lived together for 8 years now.

Kelpie first quoted this Amhailte also used it.Now really with the information I have given below do you really think I sounded like you when you first looked at E collars. If all you are arguing is terminology, then for those of you with the attitude of a dog who won't give up a bone, then here is something of higher value to make you change your mind. Sorry could not resist that Also sorry for the length of the post but is well worth the read. Especially for passive readers as Erny puts it. Is the Electric Collar Cruel?The electric or electronic collar can't be cruel, it is an inanimate object. By "wait!" you say, "surely it is cruel to use the device on a dog. You are an awful and mean person for even thinking the e-collar might be OK." Well, I'm not here to promote the e-collar. I don't use one, and I think that most people shouldn't go near one much less use one. Nevertheless I'm going to discuss it because I think examining the e-collar and your reaction to it is important. We make a lot of presumptions and assumptions in our lives. Mostly these are pretty harmless. Sometimes, however, they get in the way of truly thinking and when that happens we can fail to act in the least harmful way. When discussing dogs the e-collar can be compared to chocolate. "Chocolate like an e-collar?" Yes. "Chocolate like an e-collar" The person using it never thinks they are doing any harm and the person opposed to it is always loudly opposed, and likely to toss around hot words like "cruel, thoughtless, stupid etc" In tiny doses both are harmless, and both are appreciated by the dog. In larger doses both can be quite harmful. More important, however, is the process by which we decide that one is OK and the other is awful. I often hear "but my dog loves chocolate. I don't want to deprive him, and he has never gotten sick from it." You are, at that moment deciding what is appropriate for your dog based upon your experience and observations. So what are you thinking when the next person says "Well, I know a dog that died from eating chocolate." Most likely the first thing you are likely to do is start asking questions: "What kind of chocolate? How much? How large a dog? Was the dog particularly sensitive to chocolate?" You do this because your personal experience is at odds with what you are being told. In sharp contrast when someone says shocking a dog is OK you react in revulsion. You do not ask what the dog's reaction was, nor whether there are any indications at all that the dog has experienced the same distress as you would feel. You are content to rely on your feelings, entirely. The reason the process of deciding is important is because what is OK for your dog should be evaluated based first upon the dog being a dog. Dogs view things from a dog's perspective. They don't pay attention to politics or rumour. They love things we hate and hate things we love. So pay attention to the dog, not to what you think the dog wants, thinks or feels. I have seen the collars used horribly. I've also seen them used to truly improve communication between dog and human. You might ask what can be done with such a collar that can't be done by other training methods. It is a good question. The answer is that the average pet owner simply does not need an electronic collar. There are two primary uses for the electronic collar. (a) aversion training and (b) high level distance work. The picture most of us have in our mind when we think about the electronic collar is that nasty jolt of electricity we get if we stick our finger into an electrical socket. It frightens us. And that is exactly what happens when the collar is used for aversion. The collar level is set to scare the dog. Why would you want to scare the dog? Well it depends upon what risks your dog faces and what steps you believe least adversely affect quality of life to reduce those risks. For example: the collar is used to cause dogs to be afraid of rattlesnakes and to avoid them. The purpose is to prevent the dog from getting killed or injured by a rattlesnake. If you are going to allow the dog into areas where rattlesnakes might be then you will have to consider whether the stress of the aversion is worth possibly saving your dog's life. Of course you could just keep the dog out of areas with rattlesnakes. And that's what you should do, unless doing so adversely affects the dog's quality of life, or the dog's ability to keep its home. If the dog must encounter rattlesnakes then aversion should certainly be considered as less cruel than injury or death by rattlesnake. What most people unfamiliar with electronic collars don't know is exactly how refined those collars have become. They can be very subtle. Although I've not used such a training collar on any of my dogs I have felt them. To my astonishment there are some settings I could barely feel. The trainer using the collar for distance work is going to look for the lowest level that gets the dog's attention. Used this way the dog is not frightened or distressed reason is that the dog feels what it feels, it does not have the view that electricity itself is scary. They certainly can be used badly. The electronic collar is easy to abuse and the average dog owner shouldn't go near one. But I've learned enough about the collars, and watched enough dogs, to decide that they can be used without distressing the dogs. So when someone uses one I no longer simply judge them to be cruel. Instead I have to ask the questions (a) how is the dog reacting? (b) what is the purpose? © what are the alternatives? There was no name/date or scientific bases to this article it was someones view after watching the use of one not exactly testing one. Electronic Training Devices: A Review of Current Literature by Jo Jacques, CPDT, CPCT and Sandy Myers, CDBC. Spring 2007 Electronic Training Devices and How They Work Remote collar,” “electronic collar, and “shock collar are terms used to describe electronic training devices. Common variables of all of these devices include the level of shock or stimulation, the quality of the equipment, and the person with the control device. In Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training: Procedures and Protocols, Vol. 3 (2005), Lindsay explains in detail the electrical engineering that goes into these collars (pp. 570-573). There is no evidence of standardization for electronic training devices, and the quality varies from one manufacturer to the next. Some manufacturers have developed collars that have a wide range of settings and the ability to administer various levels of electricity. High-quality collars consistently produce a less unpleasant sensation when they are on a low to medium setting. In the simplest terms, electrical stimulation can be categorized by levels: low, medium, and high. Low-level electrical stimulation creates a tickle and tingle effect, mid-level electrical stimulation enables the handler to annoy or startle, and high-level electrical stimulation is Point 1 Factors to be considered The length of coat, hydration of the dog, how the dog holds his head, and amount of dirt and debris on the dog are also factors in the amount of electronic stimulation/shock the dog receives. Other factors that affect the degree of stimulation include the size and type of electrodes (as noted above), distance between electrodes, voltage and amperage levels, as well as the impedance of the tissue at the sites of contact with the electrodes. Impedance is defined as how much resistance the electricity encounters to complete a circuit, or electric charge (http://unabridged.merriam-webster.com, accessed 28 July, 2006). The greater the tissue impedance, the less electrical conductivity is seen; conversely, less tissue impedance results in greater electrical conductivity. Tissue impedance is affected not only by the location of the electrodes, but by the amount of connective tissues and fat deposits, as well (Ahn, Wu, Badger, Hammerschlag, & Langevin, 2005; Tagliabue, et al., 2001) Point 2: Physiological Effects To determine whether electronic training devices cause physical stress, it is necessary to look at the animal’s physiological reaction to these training devices. By looking at scientific data, we are better able to make an educational assessment. There are several studies cited below that enable us to observe documented changes in heart rate and cortisol levels when electric shock is being used. For the purposes of the following discussion, “stress” is defined as “a physiologic condition in response to environmental or psychological pressures. These pressures are referred to as stressors. This condition is accompanied by, but not limited to, elevation in corticosteroid levels and may be accompanied by concurrent behavioral changes” (Marder & Voith, 1991). Behavioral, saliva cortisol, and heart rate responses to different types of stimuli in dogs (Beerda, B. (1998). Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 58, 365-381). This full study can be found at www.iaabc.org this is not a link and you have to type the web address in. The information above is the tip of the iceberg of my research. However I wonder how many of you even went this far in the beginning before you were convinced into using this tool. I am requesting you send to my e mail the research you have done on the subject. The problem I am having is finding scientific research for the benefits of using this tool as the only papers I can find are from the company's who make but will not send me there research or testing results or the people who use them hardly an unbiased view point don't you think. One further point and please correct me if I am wrong. The sale of E collars in nsw are legal but the use of them is not. Is this correct?

Hi Belijae, I know its a worry if you are not sure if the dog has swallowed something or not. Classic signs of an obstruction can be vomiting 6 to 12 hours or so after ingesting a foreign object followed by excessive straining when trying to defecate and bloody diarrhoea. Also there are alot of things a dog will pass normally even if they have swallowed something. If any of these symptoms appear in the next 24 to 48 hours then please consult your vet. I hope this has been of help to you.

Maybe not, but it seems to be the only one your focusing on. If E collars were banned tomorrow or not available for use, are you saying you would not be able to help dogs with serious issue's? Hey Erny - What does the term research mean to you? If it means that you are discounting something then I am afraid you are wrong. The original discussion was on fear/anxiety not E collars. The fact that someone is willing to research all angles of something before they commit them selves on using it. I feel this is a testament to the persons ability and not just using something as a short cut to get results quicker. Every training method has side effects whether they be positive or negative training methods. If you have not researched this angle in your work, then please do not presume someone else has done the same. Hello! you do attest to using other training methods, but what you are saying is when you run out of idea's or what you know does not work then you use an E collar for a result, is this correct? please do not presume this applies to me. I have had the greatest of fortune in working in the professional service's, the veterinary industry and the pet dog industry in in the UK. The veterinary and pet dog industry here in Australia. I have gained qualifications theoretical and practical knowledge in all, and a lot of experience. I have purposely set out in my dog career to learn and continue to learn as much as I can, and not just think every issue is a leadership/rank issue. So you see Erny I think I am quite intelligent enough to firstly have an opinion on one kind of training tool then research all aspects of the use and side effects of a tool and free to choose whatever method is best for the dog and owner I am dealing with at the time. If you disagree with a person doing as much as they can in the dog industry then you are wrong and the only person who seems to discounting and presuming things is you. If you also think I have not dealt with aggressive dogs in whatever their aggression is surfacing towards then once again you are wrong. Also Erny I did take part in a six week trial on the use of E collars but this was not sufficient for me and please read properly I did say for me. Now a few years on I am doing further research. In the end it is up to the individual trainer whether they use them or not, however your quote on how an E collar would bring me more quicker or more proficient result is really another presumption isn't it, not an actual fact.

I think it is extremely important to have both veterinary behaviourists and behavioural trainers for people to choose from. What I think one of the keys, would be for both sets of trainers to work better together in the industry. I do agree that some veterinary behaviourists do charge to much but so do some behavioural trainers. Going on word of mouth is not always a good thing be it for a vet behaviourist or behavioural trainer. I also agree it depends on ether's: qualifications, theoretical and practical ability and experience. However if there is a health issue then the vet wins in this case. I suppose the point I am trying to make is, lets be glad that we have the choice of which one to use rather than which one is better. Being able to choose is free.

A few things could have caused this problem in the first place. Firstly, maybe the temperaments of the dogs being used by your breeder are not sound. Secondly if your breeder fed all the puppy's from the same bowl then it looks like your pup may not have been one of the stronger ones, and would have been running around the bowl to try and get in to feed, this can sometimes put an early association into a pup of resource guarding once it goes to a new home. Also what you have done since getting the pup home is important. Can we have more info on what you have done on a day to day basis with your pup on how you feed and use toys with your pup. Also how your children have interacted with the pup. This does look like a classic case of fear of loss in resources in your pups mind from this quote. I am glad you are doing this, however if you get some information that goes like this: "No toys till your pup has learned to behave". "Make it wait for its meal and if not eaten within 15 mins take it away". Or "Do not pat your puppy" and worst of all throw something or use a water spray when the pup displays bad behaviour. Can I suggest you stay well away from doing any of the above. Come back to the forum and there is a excellent exercise called FLOODING I can give you, which will help you a lot. But we need more info on your day to day life with your pup. This is needed so the best possible advice can be given. I wholeheartedly agree that your children's safety comes first and the best idea would be for them not to interact with your pup until you get professional advice. Keep us posted on how your lesson goes wishing you every success.

K9, I started, once again, to reply to every single statement where you have misquoted me or purposely misunderstood me. In reality this is a complete waste of my time & I am sure yours as well, since I am sure you will continue to attempt to discredit me. Let's just recap...this is what I wrote that apparently made you feel so threatened that you needed to launch into an attack of my credibility: The reason I entered this thread was to share my views on how I would treat a fear/anxiety issue. From memory, you agreed with what I wrote, but felt the need to defend your territory after I made passing reference to tools that it seems you use as part of your training methods. One of the biggest assets I believe any dog trainer can have is the ability to understand (and not purposely misunderstand, as is the case here) what is being communicated to them by clients or peers. I can only hope that the way you communicate to your own clients is not similar to the defensive and blatant attempt on your part to discredit another trainer whose views or methods you know nothing about. I am sorry K9, but this shows an ignorance and close-minded attitude on your part. May I suggest until you know how another trainer works or what they have learned or believe, that you keep your misinformed beliefs to yourself. Once more for the record, I will state that I am satisfied with my current methods of dog training which do not include the use of E Collars or prong collars. Why on earth should this be a problem for you or anyone else on DOL? Right now my clients are getting the results they are after and since this is my goal, I am happy and so are they. As far as explaining what my methods are…is that a question you (or any of us) could answer yourself in a few paragraphs? While I have some obvious basic rules & protocols I follow, my methods are tailored depending on the dog & owner I am facing each day. Maybe if you have problems with my training and/or creditability we should address it in another thread so as not to hijack this one any further.

Actually Erny what you think I have to catch up on is one method used in dog training, as I have stated before I have never had to use such a devise, as my many applied techniques in dog training have worked with very good success. But good on you if you would like to research more techniques to use than E collars.

Hi myszka, The way I am researching the subject is to examine case studies, veterinary/behavioural papers written on the testing and the outcome of tests using these devices to cure animal behaviour. Also I am very fortunate to have worked in the veterinary profession both in this country and the UK, and have been consulting with colleagues both here and the UK to further my knowledge in this subject. My particular interest lies with the effect to the dogs cortisol and heart rate increase eg... (stress factors) and what effect if any, prolonged or miss use of these devices, would have a long term affect on the dogs health and cognitive functions.

You have obviously misunderstood me, I did not say I think a certain tool is a cure…I said “On the subject of (people thinking) electric shock collars or prong collars to cure dogs of problems”…a big difference. I see any tool as one of the components that the owner can use to fix a problem. The success of the tool depends on the information given by the trainer and how well it is understood & used by the owner. It does not solely rely on the use of the owner, as a trainer I take some responsibility here as well. If a tool was a tool and nothing more, there would be no point in using a tool at all. Whether you use the terminology of shock or e collar makes no difference it is still electoral impulses being sent to the dogs brain that would not normally be produced by the dog. This was done away with in humans in the 1930's because it did not work in solving behavioural problems. I am 5'2 inches and of very slim build. In fact I weigh exactly 46 kilos. For me, as a trainer, the size of the dog has nothing to do with it's problem nor my beliefs. I stated earlier that I have never used these tools in my training, this is a fact, not a political belief. Some trainers have learned far more than what was taught to them in their original profession and I am proud to say I am one of them. That may be your opinion & you are entitled to it, but it is not mine. Remember a flat collar is just a tool. I find that when I use it in conjunction with my training techniques, a flat collar can be a useful tool regardless of the size or temperament of the dog or handler. I have dealt with many large breed dogs with so called high drive, in fact they are often neurotic dogs, frustrated as their training has nothing to do with the lifestyle the dog actually leads compared to the life the trainer thinks the dog should be leading. I was taught by a very wise person who once said that training is all about technique not brawn or quick fixes to make the trainer look good. I don't actually have a one sided opinion on this subject, that is why I am seeking a more in depth opinion and doing further research on the subject. The problem as I see it so far, is that when electrical shock waves in a dogs brain are given externally you never know the dog’s true capacity or what the dog can achieve given the right circumstances. If a trainer can not give the right circumstances to a problem then they should not attempt to give an uninformed opinion. If the results do come back as harmless then it will be up to the individual trainer as to whether they use that tool or not, are you forgetting the box part to the tool. I have researched many behavioural tools in dog training and will continue to do so. Whilst ever my current methods are achieving the current results I am getting, I do not feel the need to use methods that are as yet unproven for me in their effectiveness.

Hi bosko, I know I have entered this discussion late, but my computer spat the dummy and is still not right, while it is semi working thought I would take the chance to reply to you. There are many ways to cure fear/anxiety in dogs. Most importantly any training done must be tailored to the dog individually and not lumped into such things as breed specific or what has been done with other dogs and worked. Find the reason for the problem first, eg... what started the problem in the first place. Take full account of what happened and then remember from that point on any time the dog see's, hears or smells something similar to that first account will produce the problem to keep appearing and the dog will continually react in the same way. Dogs work on recollective memory sight, sent and sound. The training program should be set to change the dogs mind on the trigger points so to speak so that the the trigger point is no longer seen in the dogs mind to be a threat. On know account should the trigger point be introduced straight away in the dogs training. Eg.... if the dog is fearful of other dogs there is no point in bringing a dog in, in the initially rehab part of the training program. So if your dog is fearful of strangers there will be no point to keep trying to work the dog around strangers as no matter what you do exercise wise will work because in the dogs mind he will also associate the exercises as the new trigger points to the same problem. I have a detailed set of exercises I give the owner first before reintroducing the trigger points into the training program. Then I introduce the trigger points in an non threatening way to the dog. The trigger points are reintroduced at short positive intervals so as not to overwhelm the dog and gradually build them up until the dog is capable of handling them. On the point of drug therapy, I have trialed a combination of Prozac on Valium on a Malamute who was aggressive to both people and dogs. However a full blood count must be done first to check the dogs liver and kidney function etc... and the drug therapy must still have a training program to go with it. It is only in extreme cases should drugs be used in dog training. Mostly they are not needed. On the subject of electric shock collars or prong collars to cure dogs of problems, I personally have never had to use any of these with any of my clients to cure their dogs problems. I am currently researching with veterinary assistance the negatives versus positives use of such devices. Wishing you all the best in treating your dogs problem. pinnacle dts

OK keepitreal, may I ask what you think a high prey drive is? Basically high prey drive is the dogs abillity to chase moving objects which is the best asset a wild dog can have. This is why all professioal services be it army or police or raaf look for these qualitys. However your dog is not a wild dog in the true sence. To try and build this ability in an domesticated dog can be quite dangerous. Dogs are like sponges and will absorb any info you give them. So lets really keep it real. You can have food drive which to a dog means chase or scavenge. You can have sex drive which means to a dog, I need to carry on the line. You can have play drive which to the dog means I like to play how about you. Every single one of these drives involves addrenelin. Building addrenelin in a dog must also come with knowing how to switch it off. If you have not learnt how to switch this on and off your are stuffed. I bet my life your dog would chase dogs, scateboards, prams, and anything that looked like moving given half the chance. I have to tell you that I was taught by the Royal Army Veterinary Corp in Melton Mowbrey in England in protection dog handling. Since 1993 I have been in Australia and have done a considerable amount to further my dog career. This includes 5 years veterinary nurse experience. Considerable dog training/behavioural qaulifications. Also alot of further working with people and their pet dogs on a day to day basis. I will never stop learning and never presume a problem is as clear as it first appears. I have and always will learn as much as I can about both small, medium and large breeds of dogs. I do hope what ever course of action you choose to take will help give you what you want from your dog. Wishing you all the best pinnacle dts

Keepitreal, How old is your dog? and exactly what breed is he? I hope you got to read my last post. My own dog is a BullMastif x Great Dane now 9 years old. He was origionally a pound dog and had some pretty bad issues. I got him at 9months old and worked very hard to fix his problems. Thankfully he has turned out to be the most well behaved and loving dog I could ever ask for. Also very good with other dogs where he was not in the early days. None of this was done by sending him away. It does not matter if you post a novel on what the problems are, it is far better than getting the wrong info because you think you have to keep it short. What do you mean by anti social, with dogs or people or both. Bikes scatboards, prams, wild animals, cats etc..etc..

Hi keepitreal, I whole heartedly agree to not sending your dog away for training. If you don't want to join a class which does not always work depending on what type of dog you have. You can get a trainer to come to your house this is the ultimate in training. Boarding and training only trains the dog to the trainer and none of these centers including Handrob will actually let you physiacally see your dog while it is there. It may only be behind some sort of glass partition if at all, where your dog looks to be doing well. Most often they will come home with kennel cough as the minorist of probs. Because you do not know exactly the training program from the start to the finish and how this was acheived by them, then I would give your dog three weeks at home and it would be back to doing what it did before. Unless it had a Frontal Labottomy during training. I used to board and train dogs and saw this problem from these places very early on. I thought I would do it differantly in the fact I would get the owners to come to the kennels 3 to 4 times a week. Get the dog and owner fully involved in the training and show the owners how it was done. WRONG!!!!! Dogs learn most by assosisation so taking it out of the home to train is useless for the biggest percentage of dogs. Unless you are doing some kind of dog sport including trial obedience, then classes work very well. For what you are after one on one at home is the best and quickest solution to your problem. Please research all avenues very well before making your mind up.

Hi Lablover, nice to see someone else wants to know the pups daily diary. It is so important. I really hope this little guy gets the best of help. I don't suppose you have a litter at the moment at about 6weeks that could be used. Then again alot of people might be put off because of this little guys behaviour, he really needs pups his own age right now. My last post was to Monah so there is no confusion.

I have actually hand reared 8 or so pups over the last 26 years, some back in the UK with my local vet and the rest since coming to Australia during my time in vet nursing. 3 of them did not respond well and had issues, but with proper guidance and many differant training methods these issues were resolved. A surogate litter is a good idea if possable for the last 2 weeks as it would help in the dog to dog behaviour side of things as I put in my last post. As you said yourself your dog is a bully with other dogs because of a lack of this when she was between 2 and 8 weeks. However if the pup is only 6 weeks old and this is not available there are still many things that can be done so that it can go through its life with other dog companions. The human part of this pups problem will need help from someone who knows more than she does. This does not mean to say she has not tried or does not love the pup but no one is an expert at everything. I cherish the fact that I am always learnig in my dog career. There are alot of dog trainers/behaviourist here in Australia and many use differant methods. It is surley better to have one,two or even three in this situation help this woman and her pup. If one, does not solve all of the important issues needing resolved then try another for issues that help is still needed with. It really depends on their experience. I dout very much that every problem a hand reared dog has can be blamed on this fact. Other external influence will come into play in moulding its bahaviour. If you have tried more than the triangle or NILF fell free to share what they were. Love is free, pactience is free and understanding is free. A lot of things in life are free for both humans and dogs they have evolved alot more and are very adaptable to human life more than we give them credit for. :rolleye

I was repling to spotty spot spot, crate question. Did'nt know she did not have puppy yet. Silly me!!!!!!!! ha ha ;)

Hi Shoemonster, I may be enclined to think it's a combination of what has happend to the pup since birth and not just because it was hand reared. Being bitten by the mother, then moving house and back again is alot for such a young pup to go through. Some puppy's not all may have problems because they were hand reared this I agree with. I know the circumstances were unavoidable and I do hope your friends health has improved. Before giving advice on how to fix this liitle guy, I would certainly require alot more info as your friend does have a serious problem. I would need to know exactly what your friend does with the puppy on a day to day basis and what exactly his ground rules are. It is not a simple as putting him back in his box, or trying to immitate what the mother would have done. If things are done wrongly now they may appear to work, but it will show that it was done wrong when the dog gets to 15 months to 2 years old. This is the maximum life expectancy I will give this little guy if things are done wrongly now. Being hard on this little guy right now will only teach him to be more aggresive with people. It may work on some pups who are not so strong willed but I dout if this pup is one of them. From 6 to 8 weeks old is when puppys social skills in a litter are moulded and is a coming together of all they have learned with each other. This only applys to how to behave with other dogs and has nothing to do with how to behave with other people. This is the path I would be taking if I was your friend. If a surrogate litter could be found for the next 2 weeks then he could pick up some social skills in relation to other dogs. At 8weeks I would be getting a very good behavioural trainer to teach your friend on how to mould the puppys behaviour with people. This pup needs an intesive rehab and training program in order to increase his life expectancy. If no surogate litter can be found then start with a behaviouist coming to your friend straight away. You can send me a detailed diary of what your friend does on a day to day basis and what his ground rules are. I will be happy to take a look for you. If your friend does not live to far from Sydney she could certainly enlist my help. I hope you keep us informened on how the little guy is going.

It really depends on what you want and where you have the crate during the night. If your puppy is about 11 to 12 weeks old I would be teaching it to hold on during the night. So your crate should not be to big, but big enough for it to stand up, turn around and lie down streched out. If it is to big then it will just get up and go to toilet at other end of crate. So having the door closed wont make any differance. If the crate is just the right size then having the door closed may but not always stop your pup toileting during the night. I have never used newspaper, or puppy mats to toilet train but it does work for some people. Can we have more info on how you use your crate, when you put your pup in it, where it is during the night etc...etc.... alot of people use a combination of door open and door closed it really depends on how and when you are using it. ;)

Hi Janis, I am so thrilled you've got your puppy home she does look so cute. Gee!! that was a long way to travel. I am sure she will be a very well loved and cared for pup in your family. It is so exciting to have a new pup. I am looking forward to hearing how she is going with you, and I am sure you will do a great job with her. So it looks like it's time to pop the ;) and celebrate. Have lots of fun.

Teething can certainly bother some pups, Good advice from Wyhldher about lots of chew toys and cold items just make sure the chew toys and frozen items are bigger than the dogs mouth so it cant swallow them Dogs baby teeth will start to fall out at 4 to 5 months old. may even be later in Giant breeds of dogs. Lots of toys will also help with the temptation for the pup to use your hands as a teething toy. Oh the joys of puppy rearing... Ha Ha but don't you just love them.