bingo

Aquadents like got Xylitol in it http://www.naturalnews.com/025335_health_xylitol_dog.html I tell you some of those vets who knows whats going on between their ears

I do my own 2 poodles that is, complete crew cuts no comb or anything really back breaking, if I were a groomer I'd have to charge a fortune just to keep my chiropractor happy. But generally from my experience if you've let them get out of hand they can charge like up to $70 each.

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Hey there , Just wondering if anyone knows whether Savlon would be a viable alternative to Pyohex skin lotion for my pooches pyoderma. I ask as it is a lot more readily available, and also a lot better value. I'm also aware that along with chlorhexadine it also contains cetrimide which is another antibacterial. From doing a breif search on google it appears that as long as you don't put it in their ears cetrimide is also safe to use on dogs, and is also an active ingredient in some dog shampoos. Does anyone know if Savlon is good to use? Or if there are any other similar ointments possibly one with out cetrimide only chlohexadine?

Thanks for the reply and useful input the active ingredient hexarinse by Virbac is called chlorhexadine which is commonly used in veterinary clinics with many different useful applications. It's widely used as an effective antibacterial in various pet products like medicated shampoos, oral preparations and disinfectants. I haven't done much reading in to it's potential harmful side affects no doubt they exist but due to it's wide use and varied applications I'm not too concerned. Virbac also makes another dental preparation your supposed to add to their drinking water called Aquadent which I think may be the one your speaking of I too was quite shocked read that the active ingredient was xylitol which is a sugar alcohol sweetener that if consumed in too high concentrations can cause potentially life threatening hypoglycemia in your dog. Since owning my pups I've also come across many other dangerous additives used in pet products and cant really understand why safer alternatives aren't used. Also on the topic of dangerous additives and dental products can anyone tell me why so many pet toothpastes have tee tree oil and fluoride in them. I went to the pet shop the other day and it wasn't even possible to get some with out one or the other I guess the manufacturers assume the likely benefits will out way the potential harmful side affects which to me is completely unethical when you consider that there supposed to be specialty pet products for which a premium is paid it's hard enough as it is keeping pet healthy or caring for them when ill or injured with out being undermined by the people who produce the products to treat them.

Yeah I've looked into it and the wisp doesn't actually contain toothpaste from what I can tell it's ingredients are relatively harmless to dogs The active ingredients as listed on Wisp packs are caprylic/capric triglyceride, flavor, gelatin, sorbitol, and sucralose. The peppermint flavor contains FD&C blue no. 1. The spearmint flavor contains FD&C green no. 3. The cinnamint flavor contains FD&C red no. 40. Although I may be wrong and am not certain on flavoring and colourings I like the convenience of a disposable product trying to avoid ending up with a chest of pet gear

Hi there just wondering if anyone's had experience using colgate savacol as a cheaper more readily available alternative to Mavlab dental spray gel or Virbac hexarinse?

Howdy, Just wondering if anyone's had a go at cleaning their dogs teeth with a colgate wisp?

Thanks Clyde I'll be sure to give it a go I think I'll use distilled water when I make it just to be on the safe side. Next time I'm at the vet I'll have to ask why it supposedly is meant to be made fresh each time. My vet didn't say it needed to be made fresh he hasn't actually ever suggested to use it at all I read it on a couple of sites but with no explanation why. Know that I think of it it may just be that if it's warm it would be even more effective at cleaning the wax etc. away even if so I think it would still get the job done cold. Also I cant really imagine any bacteria being able to grow in it after all it's supposed to kill bacteria + it's probably got preservatives in it anyway and using distilled water will cut the chance of the water growing the bacteria.

Hi there, thanks for your responses but I still am not quite sure why you couldn't make it up in a bottle and store it. Surely someone out there is currently or has been using this method. I don't think the active ingredient deactivates after 10min I think thats just the actual time it takes to completely rid their skin of the bacteria but I may be wrong. I like the sound of dermcare producing a flush for their ears Rappie you'll have to keep us all informed of how it's progressing and keep pushing you rep for it. It's a great nuisance attempting control ear or any skin condition as I'm sure many of you already know from personal experience so if anyone has any comments or ideas please don't hesitate to respond as I'm sure plenty of others would also like to know.

Hi there, I frequently flush my poodles ears with a 1:40 solution of malaseb which is made fresh each time. Does anyone know why you must make it fresh each time? It would be so much better if you could just make it up in a old ear cleaner bottle and have it on hand all the time. The vet says that the solution should be lukewarm to avoid astigmatism but how come it's ok to use regular ear cleaning solutions like bayer clean ear etc. then? The only other reason I could see for making it fresh each time is due to water quality but this could be avoided by using demineralised or distilled water. Has anyone tried this already or know why I cant just do it this way? I've also written to Dermcare in the past suggesting they manufacture a ear cleaner but got no response I might try contacting the US brand instead I've noticed they already have a malaseb flush solution and that a US pet supplies website is actually selling it as a ear flushing solution so maybe they'll take more to the idea or start producing their already existing malaseb flush solution over here their pledgets also look quite handy too.

Thanks for the speedy reply do you know of anything else I could use? And they don't end up too oily but you can feel a residue on their coat that I like to get off them asap. thanks again

I also have 2 mini's, and just use Andis AG but wouldn't go for them again I'd probably try some Oster's or something else my dream clippers however would be the laube iVAC which vacuum the hair away while you clip at US $387 they aren't cheap though. http://www.kimlaubecoshop.com/851ivacclipperkit2-speed.aspx

Hi there I'm looking a getting one of these dog dresser's (see images) to help keep my mini poodles cool in summer with out the hassle of getting the electric clippers out etc. Has anyone else tried one out before? Are they as good as they sound? And which one's best? They certainly look and sound like a very handy tool to have. I hate clipping them with my Andis all the time because they end up all oily, which means I have to give them a wash on top of 2-3 hours each it takes to completely clip them. I've also seen what are called a coat strippers and stripper knives do they do the same thing could I use of them on my poodles instead?

Hi there I've always wanted to ask this question but haven't until now for fear of being thought of as paranoid. I'm wondering if there's anyone that knows the reverse zoonoses that can affect dogs? I have managed to find a few like tuberculosis, amebiasis, and mumps but wonder if this is all that can be passed to our furry friends. If anyone knows of any others or knows where I can locate a complete list of them I'm sure it would be a great bit of knowledge for us to help insure our pets wellbeing.

Thanks. Just a quick note, I acutally have a box of Synbiotic D- C capsules here with me... so they must be avialable in Australia?? Although I can't be sure as they were donated to me. From what I read it appears the Pro-kolin paste is what I should use first, which I am, and then the Synbiotic D-C as a continued follow up. Outlaw and becks, how long does it take to work? I must add that this dog could have a medical reason for his problem and so this may not really help a great deal. His owners are OS and will be back in 2 more weeks. I have spoken to them by phone breifly and suggested they have him completely checked out when they return. His problem is long term and the general consenus seems to be that he has a 'sensitive' stomach. I am not so sure of that as he continues to suffer diarrhoea even thought he is only eating chicken breast cooked and raw mince. I'm not sure they may be now but a while ago I emailed protexin Australia and they said that they weren't. Maybe they have since brought them out or they could have come from the US or UK.

You could always try him on some probiotics or slippery elm is also meant to work well, and moderate his intake of rich and fatty foods. If he's a kibble eater there are also some made to help with digestive problems.

You could also try a probiotic there are a few made for dogs like protexin or vetafarm probiotics or maybe even try your pup on some dairy free human probiotics.

I'd just stop feeding it anything with bones in it or bones alltogether. Never feed cooked bones and if you want to feed raw bones make sure they are large ones like beef shin marrow bones or something with some size and density to it. Some people also say to avoid pork as it has some disease dogs can catch though I imagine any meat eaten raw could potentionally pass on disease. If your dog likes raw chicken try it on the staight meat or maybe even turkey as it tends to be better value. But if it likes to chew, and crunch on something a lot of people swear by chicken necks I dont feed my dogs them but you could always try just keep a close eye on him/her. If you google it you'll soon gain a better understanding of why and why not you can and cant give dog certain things. heres one of many sites on the issue http://everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1141359 Hope you and your dog enjoy many more pooch friendly feasts to come

Heres a few of the top of my head: aristopet naturevet vetafarm vetbasix greenpet theres also a heap of US ones but they wouldn't be as acessable.

I dont think theres anything bad about them except maybe the fact that they can make your dogs cut the cheese a little bit more often You will also have to make sure to get them from a place that stores them below 25 degrees (air conditioning) and if you store them in a fridge they can last an extra year past the best before date marked on the pack. They are also intended for long term use as the bacteria needs some time to fully establish in the gut. When I first looked in to it I dropped into a holistic vet and they said that they just use human grade ones but after a bit more research I found that there are different more useful strains of bacteria you can use esspecially for animals. The best value probiotic I've found made essecially for animals is made by vetafarm The best quality probiotics brand made especially for animals is probably Protexin which is available in powder, liquid, paste or capsules (synbiotic D-C). The capsule form (synbiotic D-C) I belive is not yet availble in Australia. I have always wanted to try synbiotic D-C due to the ease of administration as my dogs wont eat anything I've added things to, and squirting the soluble or liquid form in their mouth turned out to be too much of a hassle. I could probably order some synbiotic D-C from the US but worry that the bacteria will have died by the time it gets here + it isn't cheap. So I have been planning to buy a manual encapsulating machine, and make my own using protexin or vetafarm probiotics powder but still haven't got around to it yet. I hope my info helps you out a bit if you want to continue giving it to him.

From what I read, and I must say briefly, and also a while ago any chew thats white has most likely been through some form of bleeching process but thats not the only trouble a lot of chews such as rawhide, pigs ears, trotters, roos tail etc. are also bad for the fact that often large pieces of them are chewn off by the dog and gulped down whole as a result it can lead to injuries or obstructions of the esophagus, and digestive track. You'll also find this is the case with most cooked, and some raw bones other than large bones like beef shin marrow bones. With my dogs I try to avoid these problems by only feeding them the particle type chews, and never any cooked or small raw bones. Beside the love'em brand I wouldn't say particle type chews are free of additives. I imagine they would have preservitives, food colourings, and some type of binding agent. But at least you know they are less likely to have been bleeched, and less likely to get stuck in their throat or bowels. I also imagine most of these types of products come from the same or similar areas overseas but wouldn't reccomend to buy those cheap $2 shop ones. Instead go for a reputable brand like "Love em liver chews" which I'd guess are the highest quality ones available, "Kramar chew n clean munchy strips chicken, and beef" or "lucky dog crunchy sticks". I have fussy mini poodles so I tend for the love em liver chews or chicken, and beef chew n cleans by Kramar. However unlike raw hide knot bones, pigs ears etc. you will have to give them a little more often. I give mine one chew n clean each a day and every now and then a love em liver chew which I snap in half for them to share. A larger dog may need something more like 2-3 chew n cleans a day or a love em liver chew every second day so it may cost a bit more but I think it's small price to pay for piece of mind esspecially considering the price of vet bills nowdays. Most are available in all supermarkets but the kramar one's are easiest to find at woolwoths or big w.

I'd use some antibiotic drops from the vet to get them back to normal then when they are looking better leave them a couple of days then flush them with a 1:30 solution of warm malaseb shampoo it must be warm or it can cause stigmatism. Do not rinse the soultion out afterwards with straight water or it will wash away the protective barrier the malaseb creates. Just gently cotton ball dry their ears. My dogs had a stint of ears problems untill I tried the above process and I haven't had a problem yet touch wood. Now every couple of weeks or when I notice them a bit smelly and red I given them a flush with the malaseb solution. I have read so many success stories of malaseb as a ear cleaner really it's a wonder Malaseb hasn't made a ear cleaning specific solution it would save the hassle of mixing it up all the time. There used to be more detailed directions on how to do it and why malaseb is such an effective ear cleaner on the Balgownie Vet site but since it has been updated it seems to have disappeared. If you need more info you may have to google it or I'm sure theres more info about it in this forum just search it in the search box Good luck Bingo

Just wondering if anyone else knows of other multivitamin tablets other than aristopet or vetbasix

No I was just worried I might have got a dud or it wasn't supposed to be in there or something. I've never had anything like it before and didn't think that it would be used for cushioning really you'd think they'd be able to either make the container the right size or even better fill the existing one right up to the top.