whatevah

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I have heard that they will post items out to you.

I wouldn't mind tagging along to a herding day. I don't think Tia is cut out for flyball,

[The VCA library has quite a few DVD's.

Warragul was fine. You pay one yearly fee I think $40.00 and you can do herding every Sunday morning I think at 9.00am.

I did the same workshop at Diggers Rest and preferred it over the guy at Port Welshpool. Warragul obedience club do herding every Sunday. This is Tia http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJePEGnqMe4 at Diggers Rest, she worked the sheep with Rosie.

Would love to see the video of Gambit skipping the rope Not sure what you mean about the ladder on the ground though? I am thinking of teaching Moses to walk along a ladder off the ground, I want him to put his paws on the rungs.

I found the 4paws workshop at diggers rest to be really great. You don't live far from me. The AussieShepherd club also runs classes at KCC park.

I took Moses out on the wagon as I thought it would be making an entrance and I am actually performing another trick on the way out.

Just noticed you changed your name, and what are you doing in your photo with your hand near your butt crack? ))

Moses on Australia's Got Talent Here it is!!! We were a disaster, but we had fun and the music suited!! It was picked on the day. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=CcU8WthoEFw

Here it is!!! We were a disaster, but we had fun and the music suited!! It was picked on the day. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=CcU8WthoEFw

This is the type I use. I like that I can wash the container out, and easy to get my hand into.

The audience didn't like it when we got buzzed off, and the rest of the contestants that were waiting to go on enjoyed it. They said I was good but I thought they were just being nice. But in a way I was happy I got buzzed me off because then I don't have to go through the nerve racking experience again. The most nerves racking thing I have ever done, and I have done a lot of things, including being cross examined in court, going parachuting. Much more nervous than doing a dog trial. Wish they hadn't of edited out the wagon trick, I was also going to do the push up trick where he jumps under and over as I do them, and the get hanky out of someone else's pocket trick.

Don't know if there will be a next time. LOL ) There were only 2 dog acts in the whole show. The other dog did nothing. So we came top of the losers. )

I brought Moses out on a wagon, then I had him to the hoop on a stick trick then when we did the ball on the nose trick, he slipped on the surface and started chasing the ball around the stage it bounced off a light and both he and the ball went into the audience. My husband watched it and said it was hilarious. I will try and put it up on youtube. Red said that we should develop it into an act and not just a bunch of dog tricks. But when you only have a week to prepare. Our audition was just a bunch of tricks at the crowded pet expo and they looked at my web page. I think they were desperate for an animal act.

No when he ran into the audience we got buzzed off.

http://au.tv.yahoo.com/b/talent/category/a...360&photo=1

We were on it tonight, did anyone see us?

Doesn't cost anything and is a generic site to train all types of dogs. They even have trick training competitions. Comp of the month.

When I first started teaching Moses a swimmers turn. I used this method. http://www.k9station.com/turns2.htm Here are some videos of Tia doing this method. These are the first couple of sessions with a ball on the turning board so she is a little slow. Lesson 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYouHEM_g9I A few days later http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUc7sFWamIw Here are all the steps from the method I used. Find out which way the dog tends to turn naturally. Restrain the dog, throw out a ball or a toy and wait for it to stop before releasing. Do this 10-20 times, in a 3-4 sessions. Record which way the dog tends to turn more, and that will be the direction of the turn. OFTEN IT CAN BE OPPOSITE TO THE WAY THE DOG HAS LEARNED THE BOX if you are re-training. Get a large cone, or make something that represents the same type of obstacle. We use a cone that is about 2 feet tall at first. Teach the dog to go around the cone, on the flat and in the open. You can lure with food, a tug, a toy, whatever. When the dog rounds the cone, throw the item BEHIND you so the dog learns to DRIVE around the cone. Example...if you are teaching the dog to go around the cone clockwise, face the box with the lure. Use your LEFT HAND, extended from your body as if you were giving an agility direction, with the lure, and get the dog to go around the cone. Then slowly fade the lure further and further away. Use your LEFT FOOT to step toward the box, and then pivot around to face away from the box when you throw the lure. Of course this would all be opposite if the dog turns counter-clockwise. When you can send the dog around the cone from about 5 feet away, you are ready for the next step. Sometimes this step will take two 5-minute sessions, other times it can take a few days. Using clicker when the dog drives around the cone is good too, but I have had more success with my dogs just luring and throwing. Now you can move the cone into a corner, someplace with good footing like a carpeted hallway etc. Leave just enough room for the dog to get around the cone, and keep practising until you see the dog doing a real tight turn around the cone. A few days to a week will get a physical memory going. Next you would get the box and two "walls" of some sort. Gates or plywood panels work well. Set it up so that the "walls" angle off right next to the box, creating a sort of chute so the dog cannot do a wide turn. Even people standing there will work, broad jump boards, whatever...we even used those three-fold chaise lounges, which worked perfectly. We set them up on their sides, beside the box. Whatever you've got that will block the dog from going wide. Then place the cone in front of the box with just enough room for the dog to get around it without touching the box. Practice, practice, practice. IGNORE any attempts for the dog to trigger the box, if they already know how. Just reinforce going around the cone. Make sure it stays tight around the cone. After the dog is doing #4 really well, you gradually start inching the cone back toward the box. HUGE PRAISE for getting a foot or two on the box...usually it's their back feet at first. Inch the cone back until it is touching the box, and in almost no time, you will see the dog starting to bank off the box with all four feet. DO THIS FOR A LONG TIME BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP. Make sure the dog is banking off the box the same way, every time, many times (like for a week or more, twice a day, every day, in short training sessions). Next get a jump and place it right against the box, with the cone in front of the jump. Send your dog just as you always have. Be close enough so that the dog can see the jump has been installed. Initially everything will go to hell. With some dogs, you can start with an 8-inch jump, but with others you may need to use a very low (2-3 inches) jump to start. Keep doing the "around the cone" routine until you see that the dog has developed the habit of jumping onto the box and coming around the cone. If you are teaching large dogs, at this point you may need to move to a smaller cone/obstacle so that they can physically do this. You may find that the dogs don't recognize the smaller cone as the same thing, and you may need to go back to some "go around the cone on the flat" exercises. Doesn't take too long, usually a few reps and they get it. After the dog is doing #6 well, and has done many reps in exactly the same way, you can start putting a ball on the ledge of the box and asking for them to get it with the turn. Don't expect a huge retrieve; if they grab it, then drop it, that's ok at first. You just want them to be able to do the turn + be able to not fumble the ball during it. After they are doing that well, start loading the box. Expect bobbles and weird turns, just reinforce the good stuff and pretty soon the physical memory that you have helped to build will kick in. After you get the dog retrieving the ball well around the cone, reliably and with the same body movements every time, you can remove the cone. Initially the dog will act funny and the turn/ball retrieve may fall apart. Go back to luring the dog into the proper motions, without the cone present, and no ball. Some dogs will strongly associate the cone with the turn, and will need lots of help at this stage to understand that they can do the same motion without the cone present. Now, you have a roughly shaped good flyball turn. It's wider than it should be, and probably the dog pauses slightly on the box, allowing the lever to trigger while grabbing the ball. The next set of exercises is designed to remove the pause and get the dog "snapping" off the box. ____________________________________________________________ __________________ *the exercises listed below can be used with a dog that already has a pretty good turn but is slow on the box. If your dog is getting 2-3 feet on the box already, you can do this right away. You need THREE PEOPLE to work your dog in the exercise below. Place a jump in front of the box. With a dog that has had a bad turn before, use an 8 inch jump. If the dog has a reasonable turn already, use a lower height. The jump needs to be placed according to the dog...bigger dogs need to have the jump about 6"-1' away, smaller dogs less. You want them to be forced to jump it, not run up to the box and trigger it with two feet on the lever and back feet behind the jump. If the jump is too close, many dogs will choose to do this. One person is loading box. One person is the dog's owner/handler. Another person needs to be there to restrain and release the dog. Below you will see the "setup" illustrated. Please be kind and don't laugh too hard at my limited understanding of Paint Shop Pro! There should be a boxloader behind that box...I just couldn't deal with drawing another blue person. From right to left is the restrainer/helper, the dog (ha!) and the owner/handler of said "dog." Then there's a jump (red) and of course the box. Now...here's the fun part. The handler is standing beside the box, getting ready to take off. The restrainer is a key role, as the handler will take their cue of when to take off VERBALLY from the restrainer. The restrainer will say, "On your mark, get set, GO." The handler takes of at full speed, yelling the dog's name, without a backward glance on "get set." This is VERY IMPORTANT. The handler will take off PRIOR to the dog being released toward the box. The dog will be released on "go." The boxloader's job is to watch the dog's actions and let the handler know if the dog has gone to the box or has turned and raced back toward the handler. If the dog does not go to the box, simply ignore and go back, start over. You want the dog to go to the box, get the ball or at least attempt to, and turn and take off toward his rapidly disappearing handler. All of this should be done ON THE FLAT. The boxloader should watch to see if the dog is, indeed, rabidly snapping off the box. Don't proceed until the dog is snapping quickly off the box to catch the handler. ***Before proceeding to the next step, you should have already trained your dog to reliably do restrained recalls over jumps, away from the box. Next, the restrainer should release the dog from behind the first jump, and then move the heck out of the way so that hopefully the dog can get into the lane of jumps and race back over them. You can start with one or two jumps, or all four depending on how your dog is doing on getting into the lane. Proceed back until the restrainer is releasing the dog from behind the last jump. The handler should adjust their positioning so that they can beat the dog back over the jumps, and this depends on the dog and handler. ***please note...this method is something we have figured out on our own, with help and advice from several people currently doing flyball. THANK YOU to those who took the time to let us pick their brains at tournaments. I am not saying this is "the way" to do it, or even the "best way" to do it. It has worked for me and my compadres. If you know of something different that might make this easier, please write me! ***another note...jumping the four hurdles is totally different and you can work on those skills/restrained recalls over jumps while teaching the turn. Don't try putting the boxwork and the jumping together until both are perfect.

Here is an exercise I did with Moses, which I saw on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jApeBgWgXw I am putting the jump further away from the box to get him to jump on and jump off.

What are "sweep stakes"?

http://www.dogtrickacademy.com Very good site lots of information, and threads.

Some instructions, anybody have a translation? Re: Dog skipping Rope I´ll try... 1. Teach the dog to jump on command, towards a treat in your hand or with your hand as target. Fade away the handsignal. 2. Start jumping together with your dog, making your jump the signal for the dog. 3. Make sure the dog is not afraid of the rope. You should be able to gently hit the dog with the rope (in case that happens during training it will not be scared), and swish it through the air. 4. Start with the rope on the ground, jump with your dog and pull the rope under you both when you are in the air. (does that make any sense in english?) 5. Swish the rope in the air, paus slightly when it hits the ground, make one jump together. 6. Practise until the motion is flowing. 7. Teach the dog to jump three - four times for one treat. 8. The last bit on the film are our mistakes during the shoot... I hope this is understandable, good luck!