skip

Does anyone else use this magazine? I can't get to a trainer much so I thought this would be a help. I don't normally use the internet to buy things or subscribe. I was going to subscribe but thought I would get a few back issues to start. The shipping cost on issues from this year was $29. However the actual 12 month subscription didn't seem to have shipping costs. Just the actual cost of the magazines. Just wondered if others subscribe and find it all good. Thanks.

God I hope not!!! I started with a rescue dog I have as a 4 year old after a year doing basic obedience and getting to know each other. He's 5 now and I am hoping to learn more this year. I don't know about dogs but when I had horses we would always wait until they had matured a little before doing anything much. So what is the norm in starting dogs? I thought 3 would be a good age? Good Luck DogzRule, sounds like your dog would be well suited to agility. Have fun!

Thanks everyone. I'll see what happens. I did learn before that a dog who sees itself as the alpha also takes on the role as protector. Feels it is their "job" to scare off danger. I will give my friend this info. A while ago I had to look at my own leadership as my chi x was getting a little protective. Such a little package to carry such a burden. I think I will do some more reading on NILIF.

My friend asked me if my obedience instructor could help her. I suggested I give her 2 names of good local behaviourists. Ones I've used and had recommended. I am not looking to diagnose on the net but I am curious. We were talking about her dog and I was wondering what you'd do? Little background- STUNNING German Sheperd, male 4, not dog or people agressive, walked daily in leash free, doesn't get in any trouble, very pampered and owner admits he thinks he is King (!!!!). Well behaved generally but does walk in doors first, get on lounge and eat without any wait command etc. Went to puppy school but not obedience trained. (I would add here that he does jump up on her for his things/ball/attention) Behaviour- Owner says when visitors come he gets excited, not agro but wagging tail. But he barks constantly. He does not approach the visitor and is content if he knows visitor and gets a pat. He continues to bark until visitor is sitting and then he sits/lies down. All quiet until visitor gets up to leave then he barks madly again. If the dog is told to "go to bed" he does go to his mat inside but seems chastised and subdued. The owner wants to get him to relax without the sad pitiful looks from the dog. I thought it was good he goes to mat and suggested its her house and if she sends him to mat he will cope. But I know there will be a underlying reason or issue (leadership). How would you train quiet relaxed dog at visitors. I have some ideas but would like to learn what others suggest. Thanks for any opinons.

Hi, I think I go more MarkS's way. I have a boy who does like to sniff etc. I don't mind if I stop and allow them to sniff, wee etc. I understand this is their best part. But once they have done it a few times that is enough. So I just walk and then they have to follow cause I aren't stopping. I use long thin loose leads normally. If I am watching I will give a little jingle on lead as it grows taunt to warn that I am going to keep going. He watches and just before the lead tightens he runs to follow. But I know how they can try. At times a smell must be so good the boy drops the shoulder and leans into the ground to get to some wonderful scent. I normally just look at him and say his name and he gives it up. Good luck. Mine are probably not as determined as your dog as there is never much pressure on the lead. But then again they are lightweights. I heard some lady with a lovely big black dog comment as I passed that " Look at that dog, you wouldn't even know you had anything on the end of the lead". Just the way I like it. Edit to say I am not bragging mine heel well, she meant the girl in a pink harness that weighs less than 4 kg.

Thanks Rastus_froggy, My aunt did have Dogtech and the lady (who was recommended by friend) was good. But you must never forget the owners are, what? 98% of the problem. My aunt went OK for a while and some habits ( I hope ) are gone but she admits she has abandoned some of the ideas. The poodles are very smart and have trained her well. I am going to visit in a fortnight so I must be good. I don't have any patience with one yapping at the beach. My aunt is sure people don't mind but I don't know who tells her that. Anyway they are her dogs and as long as she is happy. I know the dogs are happy. 2 mins walk to beach if you go slow twice a day and laps in pool at lunch. Right on the channel where the sea comes in to the lake. Can't wait to visit.

Mine are little so they do get more comforts than my last dog which was a rottie. He was only allowed in the door and had a mat ( really big sponge) there. That was where he stayed and he was happy. Only rarely did he stray and that was to look at me if the cat was lording it up on the back of the sofa. I thought it was better as it was a granny flat and on acres dogs smell of lovely things like dam water and horse poo. And if mine were even as big as yours, too much dog on too little sofa. I had my mat covered in a doggy cartoon print and it looked good. The rottie loved it.

I cannot give expert advice but this is what I did. My male dog is the alpha and does this without much show of force. Normally they have a place they lie (seperate)but if I watch a dvd they both join me on the recliner. Normally I don't sit still long enough for them to bother. Once the female dog was on my lap and the male came to join us. She launched herself at the male, all fang and noise. Scared the crap out of me it was so sudden. So I turfed her off and put him up. Didn't say anything and I called her to come up too eventually. Mine get on really well but this is the only exception. So if she does it she is told to get down or removed. Its my sofa and none of her business. When I work late shift they can sleep on the bed, sometimes all night, sometimes only in the morning. If I work early they sleep in their own bags all night. Supose this is confusing but it is a habit I have developed. It is what suits me. Ruthless - you said your dogs fight so maybe your situation is different. If either of mine did not listen to me about where they could go or act agressively neither would be allowed anywhere except the floor. Or outside if it came to that.

Thanks for your replies. I will definitely look at what I do next in terms of vacs. I had KC vacs done as some kennels (on the rare time they do go to one) request this. And if each type of KC vaccination administration is as good as the other. Spoke to somebody else today and apparently a different strain of KC is in town at the moment. Doesn't help if people continue to walk sick dogs in the dogpark either. My friends dog got quite sick and I can't contact her today so I hope it is all OK. Mine seem fine thou. Thanks

Excuse the long post please. I know nothing and ask lots of questions. My dogs were vacinated last Dec with a nasal type liquid for KC. One rescue dog is really developing promblems with this type of administration so this Dec I used the skin injection for KC at a new clinic. Anyway my friends dog we walk with in a dogpark just called to say her GR has kennel cough. And she said it was immunised? I didn't know this could happen, vet said a different type of KC? My friend wants to walk with me again when her dog stops coughing? In a day or so? I was wondering if this is safe. Too soon? So I called my vet who said mine were good as the nasal vac last year would keep them safe. I queried how dogs could get it when immunised. He said the nasal vac causes IgA antibodies to occur amd is 100%. The skin injection vac will not and the dogs will not get as sick but they can still get sick. I am surprised as I was told the skin vacination was as good as? What does everybody else use or have experience with? And I was told infection risk from infected dog for 2 weeks ( as per vet). Not what my friend was told so she'll think I'm over re-acting. I am going on hols with dogs in 2 weeks and cannot chance infection. Beside the fact I don't want ill puppies. No social romps for 2 weeks I think. And any suggestions to help the dog get used to nasal vacs. Is it worth trying to train this procedure? How could you? The vet said if he is getting that bad they wouldn't do nasal vac either as it is not worth it. The skin injection would have to do.

One is fussy, one is not. I recently got sick of feeding a variety and often having one decide not to eat. Oe day chicken necks were great, the next not edible. I would just serve it up the next day anyway. When I was at the vets recently I asked advice. Now I beleived the vet when she told me she once was in this dogfood study at the uni in Sydney. She learnt a bit about food types and comparisons. Anyway she suggested a good quality dry food (Eukanuba). I can control calories better this way. So now it is dry food with bones now and again. Somedays they get human beef but I think I will use that for training and lay off fatty treats. If they don't eat it it's there the next time. One dog is losing weight so it is better. She did weigh 4 kg but 3.8 is a target. Too small to carry excess, specially for agility. Not too harsh? I wouldn't mind trying Nutro as our kennel reccommends this too.

I had a rottie before and didn't know about anal glands. (thank God) Now I have small dogs and even when I worm them they would sometimes scratch their bum on the ground ( bum-scoot!). So now my vet does them each year at their vac time. I asked her to show me and she said it was better if she did it? But it sounds like everyone else does their own and would once a year be enough?

Oops! Shouldn't try even after one glass of wine!

Interesting question. I'd like to know if there is. I try to do the best I can in terms of socialisation and training. My kelpie/x at times can be a bit like yours ( with people) and he looks pretty pathetic. But I'm sure he is fine and he always manages to get pats from people using this approach. My dogs socialise a lot and it is fascinating to see the way the dogs all interact. And they know the language. Amazes me that my smallest dog knows exactly what dogs she can give cheek to and what dogs to keep happy in mere seconds of meeting.

Yes I used my backyard too until recently when bindi took over. The bindi were still green and didn't seem to be sticking. I went barefoot while training with the dogs and decided that yes, it did hurt. That day in particular one dog was jumping with a paw in the air. We're not very tough. Its a large rented yard and we can't water lawns at all so its a bit hard to fight the bindi. Haven't decided where to train but we don't have any agility school or trainers where I am anyway so I am finding it very discouraging. In the new year I must sort something out.

I'm too technically challenged to link the topic but Kirsten44 on 23rd nov had a post " Nuisance Dogs(barking) and Council" where she was talking about a device she put on the fence? I wondered at the time but it sounds like your thingo. Maybe ask her if it worked? Good Luck.

Since he's so calm about other things maybe he'll come round. Must be some connection there but not easy to see. My small girl spent her first 8 months locked up till I got her. She coped with coming out and about. But after 2 years she does have some behaviour I'd rather she didn't. I am normally very calm and don't raise my voice ( in anger anyway ). But I did swear loudly on two occasions when I spilt a drink in the lounge room. Then I found this dog will disappear quickly off the lounge if I sit with a drink near her. But this is mild considering she is also runs outside and won't come in if there is a blowfly in the house! I have a rented house with some screens missing so this is common lately. Maybe she hates the flyspray I use sometimes but I think its more because I get annoyed if a blowie comes in. And lastly she hates my cooking! If smoke happens or the stove sizzles she goes behind the lounge if outside is not an option. I can encourage her to come out from behind the lounge with food but she is straight back behind again. And if she won't come in cause of flys I can't get near her. Lately I let the other one in and if she doesn't come in I leave her outside till later. Once she is at the door I let her in. I've got no idea and lately I've just ignored her. I know you shouldn't fuss. She seems to get over it and normally she is full of energy and spark? Sorry I can't help. It is just your dogs behaviour reminds me of hers. My dog has had a bad start but was coming along. I find it a worry as I'd like her to be perky like she normally is all the time. Maybe he'll get over what ever it was in a while? I'd be interested to know if anything helps.

My boss told me at work the other day he was kept up by his own dog barking as the batteries went flat in its anti bark collar. Its only a little cav but evidently it knows when the collar is dead and goes from quiet to bark non stop! So even if your collar did stop your dog once they can start again. I'd try and talk to your neighbour again. Explain the batteries went dead but you thought the barking was stopped. Tell her its on again and let her know you are trying. Ask for her help in feed back to you. I understand she must be a pain and its not that bad but applease her anyway. Keeps the peace. Call it sucking up but you need to make them think you are being proactive. The letter was pretty rude way to tell you but just ignore this. You don't have to like her just keep her happy. See if she will beleive you if you suggest its the other dog? But hard as it is don't tell her she is wrong if she is adamant it is your dog. This is just my opinion and some would say ignore your neighbour cause she's a idiot! But I worry about what people do these days. One of my rescue dogs had S.A. really bad and the whole street knew the first day I went to work!. I explained the problem to my nearest neighbours and they gave me a little leeway until we sorted something out. One neighbour even lent me her dog as a companion until I found another mate for him. Sounds like you are very respondsible and trying hard. Good luck!

Hello Poodlefan, I don't think I've seen a "Y" harness? (I know my horses used to wear a "Y" martingale). Mine have a band round the neck and round the girth with a joining strap top and bottom? I wouldn't like to think this is damaging? Mine wear them in the car and then off lead so there wouldn't be any pressure then? The harness isn't tight and I just pop them on a lead mainly to be polite if I meet someone with their dogs on a lead. Walking in the streets on rare occasions they might pull a bit for a minute then they really don't put any pressure on the lead at all. I use 2 long thin leads and they just trot along next to me. Would this be bad for their chests and if so where to you get "Y" harness? At training they are in collars to work but even in the vetting they usually have harnesses on still. I stopped with the collars here as one of mine gets so excited when its her turn she used to start that reverse coughing some small dogs do. Thanks for your help. I was once thinking about getting the leather guy here to make me 2 harness but then I don't know if he could get the buckles small enough.

No wonder we get confused. My club says don't use the check chain but a flat collar. Yet your club says use the half check and normal check on bigger. So they don't reccommend flat at all? Maybe somebody more experienced can let us know what is the norm? I was happy to go with out the check as my dogs really don't need it. I had to shell out for a dearer Black Dog harness for the small girl cause only they came in a small enough size. (In pink! of course). But previous to that I had to use a cat harness which wasn't good. Other dog has a small in a cheaper brand. To be fair to you Wingus, it sounds like your dog is a lot more motivated than mine. My girl bounces around but always with me. I'm her centre. Even off lead she will walk beside or more likely just behind me all the time. Like a little shadow. Wish she was more drive sometimes. And mine is fairly timid as she was locked up for her first 8 months or so. No socialisation at all. Does your pup get shy at training or is she more into playing with the others? So cute.

I use a harness. Dog is 4 kg. Bit older than yours at 3 or 4 yrs? She goes to training and agility. At obedience she has a collar but she more or less just bounces along in heel. She travels to off lead park in the harness which doubles as a car harness. Off lead at park. Walking in the street on rare times I must confess for the first few mins they do pull on the harness. More me being slack than them. Then they both trot along next to me. Very light. I really don't like a collar on small necks. I see some small dogs at training in them. Some in chokers and getting dragged around. They choke and cough, I don't see the point. Why do you need a half check for training? I remember my first day at obedience. I spent particular time to buy 2 small chokers. I had a rottie previously and chokers were what I thought you needed. So the teacher looked at me and asked "Why"? I told her I thought they were required and she suggested collars. Don't know if it's correct, just my opinion. Love these little dogs!

My little dog is a bit of a pig too! I wish she'd chew it rather than just suck it in. Just wanted to make sure you were aware that your little dog could choke on necks. I still give them to mine, chopped up short and I watch her eat them. Ever since she got one stuck, went stiff and stopped breathing. Lucky she survived but someone else here on this forum lost there little dog much the same way. So her necks are cut up with scissors and she gets bigger bones for teeth cleaning etc. Great to have a good eater though. Rather that than a fussy eater!

Thanks Sandrasm for your diagram. Very interesting discussion! So much to take in !!

Sorry Sandrasm, I've just read your post again. If you use the tunnel exercise you mentioned, this would be another way to teach the dog the connection between the command and which side you will be on. So the command at the end of the tunnel would be right or left if those were the commands you have used?. Thanks!

I'm only new to agility. I had a article that explains some agiltiy lessons you could teach without equipment as such. As I didn't have access to an instructor close I did some of these exercises. One was the word "OFF" and the dog learns it means to run out to a jump or whatever and complete the obstacle. So mine will, if I point to a tree out a few metres run around it. And if I do the same to a jump they will go out and over it. I don't know but is this like "OUT" command, Sandrasm? And I walk between two jumps, one on my left, one on my right. As I walk towards them in the centre I tell the dog left or right and point accordingly. So is this how you teach Lt and Rt? Will the dog eventually understand the words or is it just the finger pointing? So teaching "cross" (or left and right) is just a way to inform the dog which side you will be on. That sounds good to me as I started to learn cross behind and found the dog would turn completely around to find where I'd gone. My now instructor said keep trying. I need to cross so the dog knows I've changed sides. So if I say something ( like CROSS) it should work? I tried throwing food out the way I was going to end up on so that the dog was looking that way. This seems to work too. So I should put the cross behind to a word like CROSS? Is that right?