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Sorry to hear about all the worries you are having. It would be heart breaking but I also would be approaching the breeders now about returning her. Cause I see heartbreak ahead and more costs. At least your money should be refunded surely if they are fair minded? Good luck with whatever you decide.

I like walking my dogs and do so every day, rain or shine. I would hate having to walk dogs seperately. I walk 2 or 3 at the same time on normal collars. If dogs are trained and know how to heel and are not doing it as a bigger pack maybe it is more about leadership. Of corse you might not be heeling exactly but I expect mine to walk on loose leads, I don't want any tugging and no stopping unless at first few mins they need to toilet. I normally walk fast which I find makes it easier. If the male dog walks a bit ahead and I feel a pressure on the lead I stop. Wait for eye contact, then walk again. If he still edges a little forward again ,I might say his name. I might vary my speed to slow and fast to get him watching for next choice. My aunt has 2 poodles that when I visit we walk together to the beach. Her poodles run all over the place, crossing back and forth etc. When I take her dogs with mine I simply walk straight ahead purposely, no stopping. I am not dragging or pulling them along. If at first one stops or changes direction I trot and encourage them to move faster. Soon her 2 will be be trotting along very nicely with mine. I don't really do anything but they see their owner very differently than how they see me. Of course when they are moving nicely I let them know with praise. I don't treat them with food as the walk itself is a reward but maybe you could at first. I don't really care who walks where, each dog normally picks a side. This is easy if they are small, when I walked 2 GSD they both travelled side by side on my left side. And another dog took the right. Maybe a lot of training is needed but I love walking along with dogs attached and you can't even feel them. Good Luck, it is worth getting right. More enjoyable for everyone. Maybe somebody can go with you and help at first and pass all the dogs to you after they get that first 10 mins or so out of the way. Give you a chance to get the hang of 3 leads. And I'd always go seperate leads too. Happy trails.

This is all good advice but I have found something thru also trying to help when I see behavioural promblems. Unless the owner aknowledges things need to change, they don't normally change their methods of dealing with the dog. Unless she wants your help I'll bet the owner is not 100% ready to listen. But hope maybe your friend is different. Sure that dog must be tired of all its hard work keeping all those humans in their box. Great ideas thou to help. I love your advice Willow! Esp about the visitors. I have a small girl who spent her first 8 months in a cage so not the best behaved at first. I was hosting a small dinner party for a mate who was recuperating at my home. All the quests bar one were there and the dogs were in the bedroom seperated by a gate. (I had a small home! ). This last quest arrived and my girl dog went off, barking madly. Without hesitating I grabbed her and while she still blasting I put her outside. Quite and 5 mins later I opened door, picked her up and popped her over the cage door. I had never looked at her or tried to stop the behaviuor. She happily said hello to the other dog and went to bed. I was myself surprised how quickly that worked. Good luck Maiko.

I think there was an exercise in Clean Run a while ago. I can try and explain it, it was a bit hard to get at first. You start with the dog ( for eg) on the right side. Sweep the right hand across your body and the dog should follow it across your front. As the dog moves in front and across, bring your left hand forward and the dog is suposed to flip his bum out and away to follow your left hand. And you treat from this left hand. I think you would need to move over a little to the right at first till the dog understands. I said cross to start with as we did this exercise. I am a beginner and my dog is not really fast so I do not really have or use the rear cross much. My friend did this exercise with a dog with more drive and who worked well away from her. Eventually her dog on a sweep over of her arm while she moved in the opposite direction would move over and look for her on his new closest side, as she changed path and swapped sides on the dog. Previously I did rear cross over a jump and mine also esp. in training would often flip round to find me on the landing side. So my trainer suggested to throw food just ahead of him just to get him used to the fact that I would appear on a different side. happy training!

Sorry, didn't realise that it is not just about being inside. I would go with 2. As long as she is given a chance to get used to the crate. If ??she damages her nails I would try to find a way to protect them. She is inside, you have gone to bed, she is comfy in her crate, I would sleep easy. Hopefully the crate is where you cannot hear her. Hope that doesn't sound heartless but that is what I would do? I would think she should accept this and give up the scratching. And wouldn't rewarding sitting quietly in the crate be like rewarding correct behavior like no barking or sitting quietly. I am not experienced but my dogs now accept being carted all over the place and they sleep where ever I put them. Good luck, hope you get help soon!

I understand why you think that keping her outside is a good idea. Not everybody will keep dogs like we may and you don't want to spoil her. A new owner may have dogs outside. But in this case everybody else is in and she is the only one out. This must be really tuff, I have no idea what experienced dog people would advise. I have a dog that a condition on adopting him was that I had another dog due to seperation issues. I was fine with this although I was a little surprised as to the extent of his anxiety and as some know, another dog is not really the cure all. I loved him on 1st sight on the rescue site and he has changed into a lovely little dog. But although his behaviour is improved massively he has had times when he reverts to past patterns of behaviour such as a recent house move. Did she dig at the door the whole 6 weekes? Is she a smallish dog? If the dog is not re-homed to a home where dogs are allowed inside wouldn't this behaviour be a problem anyway. Good luck on getting the advice you need. I love my boy and I hope somebody falls in love with your dog too. ( One where she is allowed in )

I have a girl that will wave her leg at me when she has given some indication that she is unsure or worried and I persist in encouraging her. It looks so pathetic and with some people would work really well. Her first months were not good as she was locked up with other siblings for about 8 months. (BYB -long story). Even thou she was really feral when I got her the dog ranger who told me about her thought she was pretty game and would be OK. And she has turned out fine but at times like going to a new area/park with lots of bigger dogs or maybe in a agility run late in a comp she will stop dead. When I encourage her she waves that front leg around. So it is not just when she is unsure, it is when I am asking more of her. Depends on the circumstances what happens next. My boy will at times throw his front leg over another dogs shoulders that he meets. The two actions are so different.

Just reading this made me recall that the May 2008 issue of Clean Run has an article on a new way of teaching the running contact on an A frame. I am a beginner and my little dogs are pretty OK at the moment on the A frame, although I can see the dog walk being different. If you know a friend with this mag I'd have a look. It was written by Rachel Sanders who I think is making a video about this new method. I thought it was an interesting method, maybe someone experienced has seen it and could voice an opinion?

Thanks Lucy's Run (Ben). If I do get the job I might look your friend up. And 4 Paws I live in Orange. Haven't even made it any further to Dubbo thou. Big change from Dubbo to Wollongong. And I am impressed you find time to give advice on this forum when you have 3 Kids! as well as puppies. Thanks.

Living 3 hours from any agility is a pain training wise. I am heading off next week for 3 hr drive to a ADAA agility comp. I'm just beginning so dogs can only do 1 run each both days. So I decided one is suddenly ready to go at the next level as well. Least he'll get a 2 extra runs a day. Lucky for me my sister lives 5 mins from one competition area and 6 mins from a canine complex comp area as well. Handy! My friend who trains with me (instant club of 2!) drives to Parramatta to go to training sometimes.

Thanks for the replies all! The job is at Wollongong Hospital 4 Paws. Might be a popular location by the sounds of it. While being from the Hawkesbury originally I am in the Central West now. It is so cheap here even if slow on agility side. But I have been at my last job for nearly 5 years and don't really like it. I am by myself so need more like a crappy as possible 2 B/R place as long as it has a good fence. I don't mind a little distance but was more worried that like Brisbane I'd have to live 2 hours away to be able to afford a house to rent. Thanks for those suburbs . I do use realestate.com.au and called a local real estate office who were helpful. I know it is jumping the gun but my job is not that common and can take hours to apply for a position. Thanks again.

I taught something like this too, Spotted Devil. But after using jumps for a little while I did it more on our walks around gum trees etc . So now they will scoot out on an "out" command, run round the nearest tree and come back. But you don't get many trees in the agility course and I recently found they have forgotten the "out" with the "over" the jump part. Think I'll give the trees a break for a while.

I'm just about to apply for a job at Wollongong. Never been there but it sounds like there are lots of doggy training things to do? There is no agility here but there is some at Dapto? If I get the job my next worry is a rented house that allows 2 small dogs and an ancient cat. Any suggestions about this? ( Besides "good luck!"). I don't really even know the suburbs. Would be nice to meet some other dog minded people if I do get there.

I don't know what ADT stands for but I guess it is Australian Dog training? I went to a similar school (1st time free) with a dog somebody dumped on me as it was rather agressive. They had a similar deal but I wouldn't leave him there. I was more than happy to attend any training classes at any time otherwise. Maybe you should investigate another behaviourist? With an unbiased opinion on what is best for the you and your dog. It is hard for anyone to say as we don't see your dog or yourself. Maybe ADT would be OK but before I spend a bit of money I like to look into all options. Glad you are making the effort. Lucky Lab.

New intakes are first Sunday of the month in Orange. There are some other girls who travel from further out as well and I think they car pool. Very keen. The Bathurst obedience club is much bigger then Orange. But Orange obedience is still going, maybe it is the lack of agility or flyball you were told about. I know that there is a Sunday soon where we can't use the Waratah grounds because they are needed for a sport day. I am not local so not sure if Bathurst or Orange is closest to you thou? Have fun.

Hi there I am not experienced but your post I can relate to as mine did have big arse swings (as I called them). They are much smaller than your girl and oh! so eager. So they try so hard and used to swing out bums and move out so they can look at my face. I was also aware of the fence idea. When attempting to change this I used to hold the food treat out further from my body. The dogs head moves away from me and out. This would cause the bum to move in, still in a sit position. Then I feed the treat. I try to stay straight and face front still. One boy realises when he has sat in the wrong place and scoots his bum closer. But like Erny said, my dogs heel with the bum slightly out as well if they can. All the better to see me. More work needed! Happy heeling!

Good question Stitch! I too have a small girl who doesn't really last all night unless she thinks it is too cold to pee. She runs around normally to let me know. To me, then the door etc. But I am a sound sleeper. Lucky I must be fairly tuned to her. If not she jumps on my head as a last resort. Don't think I'll do the bell thing as the head landing thing seems to work pretty fast. But good luck, very ingenious method.

Thanks Bordacollies4me I didn't think of velcro. And I was wondering where to get canvas from but heavy drill cotton if it works would be easier. And Luckydog, if your dog is big the tunnel must be harder. With mine it is more that the 4 kg one doesn't feel confident to push thru the material. If the cloth falls right or a breeze lifts it we were laughin. But she does it now. Funny she doesn't have a hassle burying under doona's.

Hi Reddi I am starting to get together agility equipment. I have the ADAA rule book and have seen 2 types of cloth tunnels only. My dogs did have problems with this obstacle at first until I borrowed a normal tunnel and just used tarp and a blanket to introduce them to it. Went OK thru them at the comp so i was happy but I can see it being something I should get. Don't supose you could tell me what you have found to use. Thanks.

Thats a really good idea Jaxx'sBuddy. I have heard other methods but not this one. I could even try it on one of mine who barks at the neighbours on the very rare occasion they go near the fence outside. I must have missed this option before. But I think I will go and get her physically rather than call her and then reward her with a tie out. She'll get clued in quicksmart and not come to me once she works out what is going on. Good Luck kimness. It would be harder in a unit setting.Lots of contact with neighbours. And I find if one of mine barks the other joins in.

God! Thanks for that great reply Kelpiechick. I was actually halfway thru writing this and got side tracked on the link you added. I would like my dog to contact like those dogs please. So I better get working! I have only been to a session on contacts at a ADAA training weekend last year. So I will be doing a lot of research. I hope to be at a comp in May in Sydney and might try to get some advice there. The trainer who introduced me might have a good idea what suits me + dogs. Hope to visit him soon as the dogs need a bit of practice on his walk etc before hand. My dogs work so different. My kelpie x would be OK to teach 2o2o and he is a great dog to learn with. My other dog (chi x foxie) started agility like a mad thing but now I am not so sure. If she doesn't want to do it it's OK. Hope to get some training here locally but have none at the moment. So I appreciate help from all sorces. And thought it was interesting you do running contacts with the A frame. Why this choice? The dogs are less likely to miss the contact on the A frame? And is the release word for the contact the same one you would use for the start or the table pause? Too many questions I'd better get some research going. Thanks.

Can I ask a beginner question? I'm still getting started with agility and don't have access to much help training wise. I found out about contacts at a training camp last year but was not really taught them before I started competing. I called the trainer who started me off and he thought it was not necessary with my dogs. Mostly as they are only 4 and 10 kg so he thought it unlikely they would be not making the contacts. They do BUT only if I keep them straight! If I was to change direction or move away at a incorrect time they could possibly jump off crooked. So is this running contacts? I can tell them to wait if I think they are about to fly off the end and then I make sure they go straighter. Is it OK to just do this. Or should I be (trying) to teach contacts just to get experience with them.

Hi tothemax Sounds like you are really making the effort! I agree with Rusky that for now go with your trainer. They are the only one to see you and your dog. Although you might take advantage of some experienced people here and run their ideasquestions past your trainer? You can only learn more. And please don't get too discouraged. The things you describe are not that bad. You could feel at training like he is so bad but if I was at dog school and I saw I dog like yours after "Isn't he cute" (providing he wasn't anointing me!) I'd be thinking how good it was you were trying to improve his behaviour and ultimately his lifestyle. Dwell on the little things like maybe a bit of improvement with focus/eye contact when you are alone. And as to my little monster I was walking him today and out of nowhere he took off sideways? He thought a green coiled hose wheel was a monster! Now what is that!!! Happy training.

Hi Tothemax, I can't offer training advice like the experts who have already answered your post. But I'd like to say its great that you are making the effort to train your dog. And it has only been 3 weeks. Relax as you have all the time it takes. Soon I'm sure with training you won't know your dog. I had never owned my OWN dog before and got 2 slightly bent dogs age 8months and 18 months. But I relate to your list. 1. My male would not dare wee on people until one day at the dogpark he ( I think) was trying to mark over a poodles scent and piddled on my quite proper neighbours feet in an effort to do so. She had the 3 poodles. And he never cocks his leg at home but at my aunts where I stay frequently he marked a lot as she has 2 dogs. I did say there is no need to let him inside at her place but a piddle on the back of the lounge re inforced that! 2. On lead he would never pull as originally he thought I was going to bash him at any moment. I walked him into town once but a man looked at him to comment on his looks and he went ballistic. Barking and trying to get away which of course made everybody look. And another trick was barking madly at a object like an outside setting in somebodys front yard. And no way was he going past it. Oh, and also manikins in the store front window are monsters even if you are in a car. Anyway like you I got some professional help and went to training. It takes a while and some things like my males acceptance of people without fear takes a while. But it is all worth it for happy dogs in the end. I'm sure your little guy will be a gem. Amazed you found a westie as a rescue. They are fairly uncommon I thought but very cute.

Thanks Poodlefan I'll get the paper one. My computer is too slow? And I would keep any training suggestions or articles with me when training. I found the free issue had a dozen or so exercises over the same small course. So I will get together with a friend on the weekend and look at these. Think I will be off to subscribe. So much to learn specially when you first start! Exciting!