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The control over the dog was amazing. I was at the Easter Show just recently ( an annual agricultural show held in Sydney for you, Mike ) and had just come from chatting to the Belgium Shepherd dog owners in the dog showing area. They were talking about how good the dogs were seen to be overseas, specially the Malinois in regards to Schutzhund. When I went back to the main arena they had a army display of ?Schutzhund. There was a German Shepherd, a Malinios and a black Belgium Shepherd. I had never seen this sort of work before and the drive the dogs had was good. The audience was impressed by the dogs but I noticed the dogs did not release on command. These dogs were physically removed from the man in the suit. I know this is not the way it is suposed to go? and just goes to show how difficult it is to successfully train these dogs. I particularly was impressed by the dog under the obstacle? when being very liberally sprayed with water. Thanks for that clip.

I knew some Basenji and there recall was a bit amiss. One was a black and white as well which was a stunning dog. I didn't know they came in any colour besides brown/white. But boy, they could move. I have a small kelpie x that seems fast at times doing zoomies. This basenji could pass him easily and still look like he was in a canter. Speedy dogs. But mind you they also lapped the dog park 1/2 a doz times before their owners ever got their attention. But give it a go anyway. Training is fun and a recall is needed anyway.

I had my 2 dogs in a large laundry at one stage and then I allowed them into the bedroom on their beds. I put a light puppy crate round their beds to let them understand that is where theyare to sleep. I had the pen so it was easy. After a while I took the pen away and they would stay put. Though at odd times one dog would slink onto the bed. The cat is allowed on the bed so I would have to reach down in the dark and feel the bed sneaks face to see if it was the cat or the dog. If I felt dog I would laugh and tell him to get off. This was good as when I travel now they will stay put and sleep whereever they are put crated or penned. Don't know about the toileting. Would you teach the dog to use the toilet thing-oh you provide outside? And then move the toilet thing-oh inside? Hope you get some useful advice. So you just got your dog? I too would never punish her for mistakes. It is hard when she is not able to just walk outside. I have a male who waits all night easy to toilet. But the chi x foxy girl can't and wakes me up most nights to go outside. I rent so a dog door is not on. We have it down pat but lucky I am one of those people who doesn't have any hassle going back to sleep again. She looks very cute!

Makes me cringe to read this topic as I was at the vets just recently. I have 2 dogs that I did not get as puppies. One little girl is good and tolerant. It took a while for the male to be more confident around me, specially when I had a paper or a belt for instance in my hands. And then we had him being friendly to other people. But at the vets he still is fearful and panics. He is not agressive but more terrified. This vet was good with him and suggested I get him used to the blanket as a tool to hold him for treatment. This was the method he preferred to use for smaller dogs. But I confess the dog was so upset he still released his glands everywhere in about 2 seconds. At least the dog was done without much fuss and quickly. Another vet a few weeks ago did not want to attempt to do him and wanted to sedate him instead. This vet suggested I get others to hold him in this method? I need to work on getting him checked by lots of people at training. Thou it seems at training most people he sucks up to and likes. Just the odd person now and again he is scared of? Is it a matter of making it uncomfortable while being held and then rewarding him for accepting the discomfort? However I try to do it, I would only use positive methods. I don't really know of another way to improve his behaviour. I am a bit late to get the puppy training in but what do you suggest for the older dog?

Hi 4 Paws, I am also learning weaving at the moment. Originally I didn't have access to much training and did the channel method. Never really got the poles together but one dog was starting to get the idea. Enough to weave but without much speed and not from both sides evenly. I am now doing the 2 x 2 weave in the first club. I find the concept easy to understand even thou I find it hard to get the motivation needed. So it has been a interesting lesson in motivating my dogs and handling skills. I went to the second club you mention once and the guide wires/fence on the weave poles spun my dogs out completely. Because they could weave a bit they got confused by the fence thing-oh and thought they should jump it. Made for a really weird jumping weave pattern. Confused them so I didn't do it again. My poor dogs! I think the 2 x2 method gives the dog a chance to really understand what it has to do, teaches the dog to enter from any angle and at speed. Sounds good thou daunting, I am finding it a big learning curve. And Kavik - I am probably wrong but I don't think the re inforcement line changes? I did watch the DVD and don't remember it on there either. I might ask at training next. Hope it doesn't as I have enough hassle aiming in the correct place as it is.

If my little chi /foxy wasn't timid ansd mostly attached to me , I'm sure she would be just as cheeky. I'm with Kavik about the long line. Your dog is cluey enough to know when Mum can't get him. And maybe up the value of the treats, mix it up so he doesn't know if he is getting a dry bickie or something much better. I would be concerned if mine were barking at people. One of mine did this at first although I can't remember stopping this behaviour, it just ceased as he was trained more. I would have the long line and practice some training near strangers. Good luck. Bet he is a cutie!

I took my kelpie x to flyball training cause the other players thought he would go well as a smaller dog. He had no interest in balls althou I had trained him to touch and then put it in his mouth. One thing the trainer said to get him more interested was to hide the toy or ball you want him to enjoy. Then each night jump up, run around really excited, then find the toy/ball. Make a fuss of it your self and then put it away and sit down calmly. Fun over. It gets so you do this, the dog gets really excited and it really!!! wants whatever it is that you have. So the dog did learn to act nearly like a normal ball-mad kelpie (using those mini tennis balls). For a short period of time he will chase and fetch. But he thinks he deserves a food reward for it and after 2 or 3 retrieves I can see he is over it and I stop before he does. He fleas his stuffed toys and only plays with them at home. I wish he would tug as it is better than food rewards specially for his waistline! My club is really keen on tugging so I keep working on it. Bit improved but just not his button.

Thanks Erny I did read it and I noted the DOGlogic site cause I may go back when I have more time. Interesting the use of Ivermectin for alternative treatment for heartworm. I knew a Doberman years ago who had this treatment and survived but it was very hard on the dog.

Why is the yearly heartworm considered bad. Is it a high rate of dosage? Not sure how they work for a complete year or more. But thanks Erny, with that info and since handling one dog is an issue I will look into monthly tabs. Called the clinic today and asked for a visit with the normal vet as soon as one dog is over her recent medication. She seemed to think I would have better results with him and did not seem surprised that I wasn't happy with this other doctor. So i will see how it goes then. I will talk to the Chief instructor on Wed and ask her why titre tests are accepted at some dog clubs but not ours. Since we all compet and are registered with the same group? I wonder what they would say? Hey, that would be 2 needles cancelled. Odin-Genie- your dogs look like they'd love everybody. I do feel useless at times. Neither dog had a great start but the girl by nature is very tolerant and upbeat, no problem ( at least in the vet dept). And it is too easy to blame their past before I got them. Sure it had an effect but maybe I could have handled them better. I was made aware of some issues when i got them and did get behaviour advice from professionals with both of them. Boy, did I need it as I had to get them both in the same week! I have learnt heaps thou and it never stops. (Plus they are so worth it!) Maybe it would help if at obedience training I get different instructors before class to vet him. At agility and my previous club he was OK but at my new club, different story. If we work on it with a more concentrated effort it could help. Thanks for your advice.

Thanks to everyone for your help. Now I have lots to consider! Jaxx'Buddy - I was wondering too if sedation only helps the vet, not help how the dog feels. Would it be like being scared stiff but not be able to co-ordinate? I am in Wollongong. Newish here and the dogs were not at the vets till now but he has been really great with my old cat recently. But like I said, I did not know the vet today. settrlvr - I have had the dogs 3 years and 3 different vets did all injections on the same day. So if heartworm should be done at a different time why don't vets say anything. I can ask and could try and break up the visits to 2 a year. One for heartworm and 1 for KC and vacs. I will need to research this too. I can't see myself drugging the dog, only if I respect the vet and they are convinced the dog will be better off. Hi Terrorbull -I am settling in here, work is interesting and the beaches are so good. I feel like I am on constant holidays! But I am sure the dogs find it a lot busier at the parks/beaches here. It is the sleek little black dog that is being such a pansy. The first 2 years I did the nasal admin and this is what created most of his panic. By the second time it took the vet ages to do and I swore never again. When I found the neck injection existed I did this and it wasn't so bad, particularly with a lady vet. He is such a smoocher normally. But he came with a few issues which I try to solve. He has improved so much but at times he has a flashback and you would swear he is if fear of his life! I am not concerned healthwise about vaccinations but what can you do if your club demands they are done? Of course you can bring these things up for discussion but this takes time to change. Although I found the Parramatta club for agility took titre test results. Mind you that brings up the question of taking blood for the testing. God,that sounds even harder. I think I will go back with both and get heartworm done in one visit and see how the normal vet goes with the difficult dog. Now I will have to start/ devise some extra help with dog in training classes. Although some people think I am strange when I tell them the dog causes any problem as he seems so easy in other situations.

I would like to know others thoughts on sedating a dog for a vet visit. There is a story to this but basically I would like to know if others do this and under what circumstances they would. I am talking about a routine visit for annual vac's, heartworm and kennel cough. Kennel cough in the neck by the way as I can't even consider the nasal administration of kennel cough. Also unfortunately the dog does get those anal glands looked at as well. It was suggested today that I sedate one 10kg dog. The vet was one I don't know (? filling in) and didn't like much. Unfortunately either did the dog so the dog wasn't done. My other dog was on anti inflammatory drugs prescribed only last Thursday. I asked about this first to check even thou it should be in the record. And found that she couldn't get vaccinated either while on medication. So all in all not very productive. I did ask a vet at my old clinic last year if she thought sedation was warranted and she advised no. She did the dog OK. I have to wait a while for one dog to be off medication so have time to think about what is the best thing to do. I will consult for professional advice but some others here often have a lot of experience to pass on. And as to the vaccination question, I was thinking of titre test but no one here does it that I have found and my dog clubs/kennel still require vac's. So I think I will leave that question for another time. Dogs are 5 and 6 years old, de-sexed, do obedience and agility and not aggressive.

Had to check with the photo but I remember walking in the local off leash dog park with Charlotte a while ago. The guy had another dog that was older but Charlotte was pretty wild as a puppy. Running up to everyone and them squirming all over the ground with excitement. I would have given her more cuddles but she'd be off before you could get hold of her wiggles. She was a lovely dog then so glad she is OK. But I don't know much about pit bulls and I did think she was what they looked like? So confusing.

I have just brought another CM book cause I like learning about anything training wise. I have heard these ideas before but I am content if I feel that the dogs will do what I say easily. I am happy if they don't pull and watch where I am walking so they follow lightly on their leads. Off lead I can't lose one of them and the other wanders but he keeps an eye on me. I walk a lot off lead with one girl chi x who follows in my shadow. So she is at my heels. Not so good at obedience recently as now it seems she doesn't heel as correctly as she once did. She lags behind and trys to get in that spot behind me again. But I did let them go in doors in front of me. When I read about this as a issue I watched my dogs. I found it interesting in that the lower girl dog could be going flat chat for a door or opening but will always!! stop, duck sideways, and give way to the higher boy dog. So now I do make them both wait so I go first.

My dogs learnt to socialise with other well behaved dogs in a training enviroment. Neither are really into playing with other dogs. The small girl is too tired of being jumped all over by boisterous dogs. The boy has a weakness (love affair) for small fluffy dogs (male or female!!) and enjoys a polite hello. But dogs wanting to rough house in play are not his thing. Unfortunately I am beginning to give in to the idea that off leash areas are not for my dogs. While in the country I was lucky to have a lovely park and some great dog park mates. Since moving 6 months or so ago, the dog park inhabitants have had a bad influence on my dogs. Since an attack late last year my dogs are not the same. Even yesterday I had occassion to think this. At the deserted park one young man turned up with 5 dogs. He let them go and to his credit, mostly they left my dogs if he called. But these dogs were a team of pig hunting dogs and off lead covered a lot of ground. My boy saw them coming and took off with his tail between his legs. He was torn between wanting to bolt and wanting to stay with me. I left the park as calmly and up beat as I could. However at agility and obedience training he can see dogs to his hearts content. Safely. Both dogs seem to focus on me when working OK. So I think now that off lead can do more harm than good. Sad.

I'm sure you would be able to take both Stella and Cooper. You can only train one at a time and you would need to confine the other. So you would need to have crate training and may involve also teaching each dog that they can be expected to work seperately. I always have 2 small ones and I sometimes think it has made them much keener and also competitive about training/earning rewards/getting attention. In obedience I vet check both and use one for the first 1/2 and one for the second so as not to interrupt anyone. I am new at my club and currently one is in the highest while the other the class down. This is a bit weird but seems to work OK. Other class members get confused as I have 1 gold and 1 black dog and swap them a lot. I also swap which dog goes first to try to be fair which is a bit silly as they aren't that clever. I think the shorter lessons each dog receives are great. As normally I train for short periods more often I find it strange that other people wonder why their dogs get sloppy or bored after at least 1 hour training once a week. In agility I swap dogs as well but this is more dependant on your club. During a 12 week course I did lately I had to nominate one dog only although the other dog was allowed to complete the exam at the end to pass and go on. In the next levels I can use both during class but each dog is counted as my turn. You can't monopolise the trainers time with an extra dog. So I can pick either dog to do the exercise but not use both. Although often if there is time my nominated training partner will tell me to grab the other dog and give it a go as well. As our trainer due to time constraints wants us ready and waiting to go for each exercise I can be a very busy girl swapping dogs. But it works well and once you get the exercise you can train later at home. So good luck and I would do it. Seems sad to miss training as it is fun at times.

Corvus, your line about Kivi thinking he must breathe thru his belly button made me laugh out loud. Really sums up how some dogs react to water.

Crap, looks like they will miss out. I'll have to go get them some other bones instead. Thanks for that quick answer!! I found the other post you mentioned. I never feed cooked bones so God knows how I thought ham bones were treated. And I didn't know much about the meat itself as I have never had a ham at Christmas before now. Thanks Terrorbull, you saved my little monsters from a belly ache I think.

Must be a silly question but during a family dinner recently my aunt told somebody else that you can not feed your Christmas ham to the dog cause it was bad for them? I meant to ask her what she was talking about but as things went on I forgot. So am I just really dum or is this not true? I have the ham leftovers and a big bone in the fridge but thought I would check here first. I wasn't aware once about chocolate and other things that are bad for dogs so I wanted to ask. Any advice would be appreciated specially from my dogs as they are hangin' for some ham rewards.

Me Too!! Thanks for that.

Mercedes, what ammounts of these ingredients do you use? I have fed most of these and recently tried cooking and drying out liver and Ox heart. At least the Ox heart did not smell as much. My dogs mainly get their food at training, just some dry food later. A vet who also does agility training suggested I give more balanced treats. She said even VIp dog rolls would be better than a diet made up of most of the items already listed in this post. So I use the rolls at home and try other treats each WEd and Sat at training. ( BBQ Chicken for comps usually) Any advice? Hard when your dog is about 4 kgs. Limits how many rewards the dog can get really. Lucky I have 2 so I can normally spilt up training time to cut down how much they earn to eat.

Thanks everyone for your replies! My aunt will read this site, she just wasn't sure how to post. Very informative. She is still considering it as one dog would be easy to clip, the girl maybe not so easy. We realise it won't look much like their previous glam jobs. They go to the beach every day and shorter coats are more practical. I think she is hoping that I can give it a go when I visit next. I have clipped before ages ago on one poodle I had. Although I will never forget when I was clipping her CKC when she was out. On the second dog I must have used the wrong size end or it fell off. And without thinking my first stroke, a lovely long one up the middle of the dogs back --was like BARE!! The dog had this bald stripe up the back. I was so horrified. It wasn't like you could do a comb over! I thought she would freak but on getting home she laughed and said it'll grow back. We'll see how they go but at least she can research the cost. I told her if the girl poodle is too cheeky I am going to wear my knife proof gloves I wear at work. We have cotton like gloves that resist cutting as I work in pathology. I don't know how groomers manage all the different personalities of dogs let alone the types. Thanks again.

My aunt has asked me if I could ask any of my doggy friends about what clippers to buy. I go to DOL general or training but said I'm sure DOL would have a health & beauty section! What clippers do you suggest she buy for clipping 2 mini poodles that are just pets not show. What brands are well thought of and easy to use. They are normally clipped by a professional but for what she wants surely a home clip would be ok. Not a fashion statement but will get the job done. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Sounds like the overall opinion is that it is not a real concern if training occurs. But anyway I thought I would add. I looked at whippets when getting a new dog. When I spoke to a breeder and asked him if recall off lead would be an issue as I walked in the bush and also walked in off lead parks. He said that he could not guarantee it would not be a problem. Even if I did all the right things. I have since also found a friend who has a whippet that hangs close to her all the time off lead. But at the time it was enough for me to loook at other breeds. Hope you find the dog that best suits.

Also the ADAA - Agility Dog Association of Australia. Lots of comps there too. Oops, edited to add I suspose the other site has all the comps on their site.

Hi 4 Paws Great idea to give flyball a go and you can learn from teaching different types of dogs. I have a foxy x chi. And she seems to have had similar issues with really keeping that front end on the ground. Her heel and sit were nearly automatic but a drop! What's that! As DeltaCharlie suggests, I tried holding the food reward a little longer to make sure she is solid. And like yours it can be an automatic pop up. As soon as you reward she is up again. And I wonder if that is a ploy to get another treat for the next drop down?? How clever are these dogs? However finally with shaping behavior for agility equipment she has turned into a crazy drop machine. I had to practice lots of fast drops for food, and then the drop on the contact plank (along with a nose touch). The table she loves and is keener to drop on. I think at times she is not so keen to drop as when you are only a few kilo it is a pretty submissive and less safe position to be in for her. With shaping behavior I was told dogs tend to offer the most recent thing they have learnt. So currently she drops all over the place. And nose touches if a drop doesn't get her anything. Even in obedience the other day while she was at heel in a drop she was busy trying to nose touch my toes. Good luck with your foxie. I had a lab, shepherds and a rottiex before so my current little dogs have been great fun and very rewarding.