Garloch

Something that always works with our dogs, is that when they begin to jump up, lift your knee up high, so that there is nothing for them to land on, and you give a sharp high pitched yelp. Then immediately turn away from them. They might bang their head on your kneecap sometimes, (which will almost cripple you) but don't show them any sympathy if that happens. (Sounds like a dreadful thing to do, but I stress that I am NOT telling you to, or advocating cruelty in any form, you are NOT to knee them in the head on purpose.) Its a leadership thing here. Persevere. The yelp is what tells them that they are hurting you. Hope it helps.

Hi Rexiam, Have a look at the topic at the top of this forum - puppy calendar - its very helpful, and may give you a handle on why a dog suddenly changes behaviour. Kelpie's are really smart - sounds as if the little pup is giving you the run around, and trying to move himself up the command chain. Sensible advice already given, so I'll leave it at that - excpet to say stick to your training, and good luck.

OK, so no-one is going to reply with the ratio of ACV to water for the conditioner rinse. Going back to post no. 6, from Kez, the human version is 1 cup ACV to 2 cups water - SO, I'm basing this purely on my own hypothesis being that dogs (mine only) have allergy so their skin is a bit sensitive, I'm going to halve the ACv, try it out today and see how that goes!

Oh dear! Amanda, you've got some work ahead of you haven't you! And quickly. Can you tell us please whether he has had any socialising with other peole and dogs, such as puppy classes? There are planty of dog trainers, and bullmastiff breeders that read the forums, and they should be able to give you some advice, much better than I. (I have a small breed with a big-dog attitude.) It sounds as if your dog is trying to protect you, and you may be unconciously adding to the problem in the way that you are doing things. As an example, if a dog is scared of thunder and barking, and you pick them up to reassure them that its alright, the dog is then getting the message that its OK to be barking at thunder, and that it really IS something to be scared of. Over to the trainers...........

Silverblue, I use Biolac Coat Improver. I have harsh double-coated terriers - whether it does anything to the texture of the coat, I'm not sure, but there coats are shinier than before, since I've been using it. Don't think it makes it grow quicker though. The label says (quote) "Designed to be specifically added to food which may be deficient in specific proteins. That are directly related to coat growth and lustre." Can't remember what I paid for it though. Probably less than $25 though, from the local stockfeeds place.

Thanks Wylie for setting me straight! Let us know how it goes Marcos. All fingers crossed for you pup!!

The post next to your on this forum lists 101 uses for apple cider vinegar. Sounds like a wonder-formula. Might be worth doing. Can't hurt - might help. Diluted, could be used on a white dog.

And here is another use for the humans: Dab undiluted on your hands and rub into those spots you get as you age - you know those "liver spots" as they are called. Patches of melanin I think. Gradually, over a period of a couple of weeks, if you rub the undiluted ACV on the spots, they disappear and act as a natural exfoliant! It really does work. Does it soften the animals coat when used as a conditioner? I have hard-coated terriers, so that'd be a bad thing for my lot in the showring. Now if someone could just post the recipe for the dilution amount and method for the coat conditioner..........

Hey RealityBites, You can post in the breeders section of the Forums anytime you like. You can answer your own post if you want to chat to other poster's or ask further questions on your topic. Others can answer your questions - and are generally very happy to help educate people and give them the benefit of their wisdom. What you cannot do (until you've bred at least one registered litter, and I think you also have to be a member of your local canine council) is answer anyone else's post. Genetic testing for Vwd - which place do you use guys? I know of Vetgen in america, which are spot-on; and there is a company in Melbourne, but I've not heard good reports about them. Are there any others? I don't have a Dobe, but my breed suffers from Vwd we have a small genetic pool to pick from. Not every breeder with my breed does genetic testing unfortunately. I would NEVER breed from a carrier or one that did not have a certificate that I had sighted myself.

I too use Advantage, and for the most part, am very happy with it. One thing though which has me watching my dogs very carefully after using it: The wording on the box has changed sometime in the last 6-8 months. A new contraindication has been added. I know this definately as I read EVERY box of stuff I get for my dogs, who tend to be a little allergic at times, particularly during hayfever season. The new boxes say something like beware of allergies, or may cause allergies after periods of continued use, or something like that. I am not reading off the box - just going from memory here, as I'm between orders at present. Maybe someone who has a box handy can tell us exactly what the contraindication says......... My friend who has the same breed as I do, has been using an "un-named" preparation for over 18 months, and suddenly her boy had a toxic reaction to it. Her quick thinking and immediate attention saved his life. He started being unco-ordinated and wobbly walking, and drinking heaps. After this scare, I watch them like hawks, and never go out for a few hours after putting and preparation on them.

Don't forget the onions, and the various types of nuts, and chocolate are all bad for them (potentially lethal - not sure of doses though). Yes, I know that a lot of dogs eat a lot of these products with seemingly no ill effects. But think of the cumulative health effects. Often illnesses show up when the dog reaches middle age, and shortens the life of the dog eventually. Not worth doing IMHO.

Hi Marcos, Sounds like a good plan of action - let us know how it goes! The fish oil tabs are the same ones as we humans have. Healthfood shops. As they are Omega 3/6/9 oil tabs, and the flaxseed powder is (I think - please correct me someone if I am wrong) also a type of Omego oil, I wouldn't nexeccarily to both. Too much oil can make their eliminations slooopy. Try one for a couple of weeks, then the other, see which one helps best and stay on them. If you can, take digital pics to compare the results - I can never remember how bad it was last week! EPO shampoo - 4 weekly shouldn't be a problem, although are you washing because they are dirty, or because someone told you to wash monthly? I know with my boy years ago - he smelled dreadful after 2 weeks because of the extra sebum production associated with the allergy. If the EPO shampoo works and quiets the allergy somewhat, definately use it, but not too frequently. More than once every 10 days is too much. Have a look on internet search sites and type in "dog+plants+allergies". I got on an american site that was really helpful (sorry have lost the link though) in naming plants that caused allergies in dogs. One of the worst is everywhere around here and is rampant - wandereing dew. Has a few different names, in different states, but I think thats what its called in NSW too. Plants with purple on them seem to be triggers with my dogs. No - that is not logical, but both plants that used to in my yard that had purple flowers were the culprits. Also, buffalo grass is the culprit with my current dog.

If you can catch her in your yard when she does either form of elimination, praise her a LOT as she is doing it, and name it wee or poo, and immediately treat her. Its constant training, but you can actually teach them to go on command. Takes patience, and lots of watching though, with treats at the ready. Treat Cannister at the back door helps. Helps if you have an intelligent breed. My friend who trained her dog to go on command has a Shih/Lhasa too, so there is a precendent for you! With walking, I don't stop for mine to sniff around. Hard to pee on the run!

AND, yes, the Flaxseed is great too. Also, Don't try too many things at once, or you will not know which has worked.

Hi Marcos, Peigirl is quite correct - please don't use human shampoo on dogs. Its not designed for them and will only make the allergies worse. The EPO oil is good, but Omego 3-6-9 fishoil is better. I have 3 allergic dogs - my breed is prone to skin problems! They all get a capsule each day, and twice a day if they are particularly itchy. Use the EPO dog shampoo first - sounds like a good thing to have, after reading about the success by someone who posted. Wouldn't be rubbing oil on the dog as oil will only attract pollens/allergens/dirt and make sure they stick to the skin even more - making the itching worse. Try not to bathe too often - they need the natural oils in their coat. Raspberry leaf tea is an amazing anti-itch antiseptic that you could rinse them in after a shampoo. (Healthfood shops - herbal tea.) Try it on a paw for 24 hours first though - make sure it doesn't make the itching worse before you dunk them in it. The reason that you mustn't give steriods/cortisones long term to dogs is that they MAY/can develop Cushings Disease (which is a type of cancer) from overuse of steriods. Ask your vet about Cushings. Catch 22 - you need steriods to initially stop the severe itching, but long term use is bad. My dogs have iramine (antihistamine) when they are bad - usually at exactly the same time as I get hayfever - its the weeds and grass in my yard that blow in from my neighbours very unkempt back yard! And let your breeder know! Definately. We need to know whats happening to our progeny and it may indicate that a particular mating shouldn't be repeated. Do any of the other littermates have the itching? If not, its localised to your area - does sound like a contact allergy to me too. The breeder may have some knowledge about a great anti-itch preparation to use, as it may be a breed specific issue. We don't take it personally, and are happy to help if we can.

She's a darling little thing. Is she timid? If there is another dog in the house, yes, quite correctly you'll have to seperate them. Think how nervous you are if you are injured and someone touches the sore spot - and we don't have all those teeth! She could freak and bite. I'm assuming here that you don't have all the stuff that breeders have like puppy-pens or trolleys etc. So can the other dog go outside, or could one of them be locked in the bathroom, toilet or laundry? A really big cardboard box, lined with plenty of newspaper that can be changed when she soils it, might be good (until she chews through it that is.) I too have a troupe that run around madly and rumble and play roughly. I had to seperate mine. The only way I could have any peace whilst Zara recouperated. 10 days should have her well fixed up and healed.

Here you go - Showring Forums - 14 January - How to Show Videos, link put up by SAS. (Thanks again SAS.) http://homegarden.expertvillage.com/interv...ining-video.htm Either go to showring forum and follow that link (probably easiest), or cut and paste the above. Hope it helps.

Belgianpup - its definatly not too soon to correct this behaviour. It'll only get worse as they get bigger if its not corrected now. And lead training is fast-paced. When they know how to do it, you can amble along at your leisure. My suggestion is to keep them on a short leash. Short meaning - depending on the height of the animal - the leash should go from your hand straight down to the collar. (Imagine a line running from your shoulder straight down your arm, through the lead, and down the front legs of the dog. They need to be standing alongside you, not in front or behind. A longer lead allows them more freedom - not something you should allow for lead training. And you should use a check-chain. There is a right and wrong way to put them on too. The chain when put on correctly loosens immediately when you slacken the chain. If you have it on the wrong way, it could get stuck and be very hard to get loose = dog choking and being frightened of the leash. Suggest putting it on your arm and figuring out which way it loosens. Keep the lead in your left hand, and a tasty treat in your right hand. Keep the treat right in front of their nose, and when they do what you want, give it to them immediately. The food tells them that they must focus on you, do as you command, and they will be rewarded immediately - they get to know whats good and bad in terms of their behaviour. While you are training them, feed them treats only when they do the right thing, and treat them often to begin with. (Just remember that if they have had lots of treats that day to cut back on their food next meal or they will get fat.) Take them to puppy school - its the BEST thing for socialisation, and you usually get notes to take home and read again and again. Cost varies, but in my area, they cost about $85 for 5 x 1 hour classes, and worth every cent. Vets, RSPCA, animal hospitals etc generally run them. They will be able to show you how to put the checkchain on correctly. If I can find it, I'll post a link that appeared in the showring forum, and had links to very short video's that taught the basics in show training which you will be able to apply to leadtraining.

When my girl was desexed, she didn't eat for a day and a half. We love them and are worried when anything goes amiss, naturally. I too, wouldn't keep the washing basket over her, she will soil herself and if she can't get away from it, it could compromise the cleanliness of the wound, and may lead to infection. Give her another 24hours before you panic. A good sleep does wonders for them. And remember, dogs heal SO much more quickly than humans do. Thats why they can walk around the same day as the op!!

Hi gg. Welcome to DOL by the way. I think Dogworld in Hume stock it. Its a bit of a drive for you though. Its in Canberra! But, they might do internet ordering! Good luck for your search. After my sillines, can you tell me what's good about it? I'm considering a change for my dogs as they don't seem to like what they are getting, and I'm interested in what else is around. Garloch.

Hi Ruthless, My puppy broke a couple of canines as well, chewing on unused buried sprinkler heads! But, as a puppy, the adult teeth eventually grew into the gaps. I do know that there is one canine specialist dentist, in Melbourne somewhere. And he is apparently quite reasonably priced too - nice surprise that! As well as keeping an eye on the health of the mouth, as emmark suggests, I'd like to also suggest that you keep a close eye on the other teeth - any over-yellowing or brown spots signify a problem. The jagged bits could rub the enamel off the opposing teeth, and therefore cause decay. Yes, I know its a long shot - but I've known it to happen. The reason the breaks happened in this case, was a low grade infection when she was a pup. I suggest if you are worried, get your vet to sedate your dog, clean and carefully examine the teeth (including taking digital close-up photo's) so you can compare the problem with the photo's in the future, to make sure it isn't getting any worse. Good luck with it all.

Hi, There is a previous thread on this, dated 29 April 07. Health and Grooming Forum. Sorry, don't know how to set up a link, and I haven't read it, but it may be helpful??

Hi Otiboy, Welcome! I have used Interceptor Spectrum on my girl and am perfectly happy with it. Its a tablet, and is suitable for puppies. Your breeder should give you loads of info on what he/she has already given to the pup, and when, how much, what comes next, and should give you all the phone and internet help they can. The Interceptor Spectrum is a combination worm, flea, heartworm, mites etc, and you give it once a month. Must taste good too as my girls never even blinked about taking it. If you look on just about any website, they have loads of info. Pretty sure its made by Bayer, and your vet will sell it too. Good luck with your girl (when you get her) - they are a delightful breed. Garloch

Hi, Haven't used one myself, but if you phone some of the existing dog wash places, they might give you an insight into which ones they use. Dog World in Hume, Canberra, are very friendly and helpful people and have hydraulic tables.

Hello Sky, Oh you poor thing - you must be very worried. Our fur-kids health is paramount, and they can't tell us what's wrong like our skin-kids can. I can't imagine what is wrong, but I use the alloveen shampoo too - and I have a breed that is prone to skins allergies and conditions too. I'm almost certain its not the shampoo - its very gentle and a good brand. The conditioner is one that can actually be left in the coat and not rinsed out. The crusties might have been there for a little while to be a patch that big, but if the crusties were white, and her fur is white, and she was all wet, you could have missed the crusties, cause they would have been sloppy not dry. Could be she's allergic to a new plant, or the jammies, or even a food allergy. Its not something thats come on overnight, so it'll be OK for tonight till you can get her to the vet tomorrow. I wouldn't be putting anything on her tonight though. Let us know what happens with her.