The Spotted Devil

The only time we do blinds is when the dog can't actually see us...in the tunnel counts...would that change things for you? The problem with having the dog on your left at 6 is that you would be pushing the dog to 7 rather than pulling them. It might work if you were miles in front. Otherwise front cross to 8 to indicate the turn.

Sheena can you explain the Lap Turn please? I could easily be on the take off side of obstacle 6 (threadle cue) but that would put me behind which is not ideal in this handling system.

When the dog comes out of the tunnel I have already blind crossed so the dog is on my right. Then my Na Na Na cue. And when I take off and the dog is chasing he is still on my right. Is that what you were asking?

I used to be terrified of blinds but I made a conscious effort to practice them (in the correct situation) and now I see them on courses all the time. Great idea Sheena!

LisaCC - a little depends on your handling system and your dog's stride length. With H360 we aim to be ahead of our dogs as much as possible so I would probably approach it like this: 4: Jump cue (ie take it in full extension; dog on left) 5: Send to the tunnel and get out of there (don't baby sit); blind cross on tunnel exit 6: Na Na Na cue (ie take the back of the jump and wrap the upright tightly) 7: Jump cue; front cross to indicate turn 8: Sprinkler cue (ie collect and turn) Hope that helps :)

I send heaps of updates and photos. The first phone call I made when Ziggy gained his Agility Champion was to his breeders in Canberra. I told them to put me on speaker phone, sit down and then congratulated them on being the breeder of Australia's first Dalmatian Ag Ch :laugh: Before I even rang Mr TSD!

When I correct people I smile and say..." well, it is crucial, but is actually called cruciate ......" So many dogs taking magic medicine called quarterzone too....

Yes! My first dog was a red ACD and she pretty much taught herself to do the most amazing backflips. Very self rewarding apparently because I didn't use a ball or food to reward her.

I also teach a release word from the beginning. Pup holds position - might get several treats - then release to a thrown treat and party! Pup gets up? Ah well let's try again.

Wow!!!!! Happy Birthday beautiful boy!!!

Last trial of 2014 and Em finished another All Age. However we were both tired (me in particular) so I took a break from retrieving completely and concentrated on agility for a few months. It worked well as Em had a false season then a proper season and, whilst the January trial was mild, the February trial was hot. Caught up with a few folk last weekend who thought we had fallen off the face of the earth but we are just easing back into training slowly. Lots of fun and joy and enthusiasm. Started by working through some concepts on the oval - double rise/2-bird, double rise/double fall, triples with 2 marks split by a blind (various pick up orders) - and she just nailed them. Only needed a few reminders to wait for the "back" and to come to heel as she was SO excited :laugh: Think I might do a bit of handling next and then do some lining drills.

Treats for training - I like to use anything small and soft that doesn't crumble...cheese, 4 Legs dog roll, sausage, cooked or raw chicken, beef and lamb. For jackpots I use boiled egg and tinned salmon as they are a bit messy on the go. I know a lot of folk use Devon etc but too much salt for my liking.

Yep. I was just clarifying that for the OP.

For sure - but that doesn't mean selecting for "Red Fox" will get you the dog you want in terms of temperament and health. It may also limit your gene pool.

I guess my point in the other thread was that the darker colours do pop up occasionally in imported field-bred dogs but you will not find any of the decent breeders breeding for colour. A good dog is never a bad colour - I do know of a darker dog in Vic that is very successful in the field and has been used at stud but I imagine the chances of getting a darker pup from him would be pretty slim. A lot of the local dogs are black for a start and pups will go to homes that are more interested in working ability, hip and eye scores rather than colour. They are a lot of dog and not for the faint hearted either.

Previous discussion here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/261439-fox-red-labrador/page__fromsearch__1

"You will not buy a dog under $5000 shortly," said Greg Kirby, owner of Upmarket Pets at the Queen Victoria Market.

Really? If I had a pup that was flying interstate to a new home I would much rather it was familiar with the crate as being a safe place before it travelled. Even a long car journey home can mean a few hours in a crate. Add all the other stressors of being separated from everything the pup knows. Crate training for me is not about locking dogs up for hours for my convenience. My pups sleep in their crate next to my bed from 8 weeks - they are safe, can't get up to mischief, are close to their humans, rarely cry because they have company and I can toilet them as soon as I hear them getting restless. Not to mention how I incorporate it into games that encourage drive and self control. Some of the working dogs of old spent a lot of time in very restricted spaces unless they were working. I witnessed that in the US actually and I find some of those practices more concerning. The good old days aren't all good. Are crates abused? Certainly. But socialising a puppy to a crate early on is far from it.

Fantastic DD! And CUTE!!!!! So so pleased for you. You've done an awesome job with Elsie and I look forward to watching your Pod Journey :D

Pics or it didn't happen AND need more on the how and why please :D

Ha! That's so cuuuute!

All the time I play impulse control games with my lot when I'm preparing food. Lots of treats get "accidentally" dropped on the floor. If the dogs back off without being told to - I feed them with the treat. If they rush in to grab, I cover it with my foot and then pick it up and they get nothing. A few weeks ago Mr TSD dropped a whole block of Parmesan and I've never seen 2 dogs reverse faster out of the kitchen :laugh:

Sorry if I missed it but what were the symptoms at 12 weeks if he isn't currently in pain?

Easy :) Place the treat right in front of her nose - as in right in front. Any closer and it's up her nose :D Move your hand very slowly downwards. Don't pull your hand away or she will follow. Almost encourage her to tuck her head in and under. Reward for head close to the floor and bottom remaining on the ground. Each time reward for the head being closer to the ground. If the bottom goes up treat flies away! She should get the idea very quickly - with puppies it tends to be the placement of your lure hand that makes or breaks it :)

I introduce my pups as soon as they come home at 8 weeks. If my litter goes as planned the puppies will be introduced to a crate before they leave - leave the door open, pop a few treats or toys in there and let them explore. Once they are comfortable with that I will separate the crate (say next to my desk) and just give each pup a few minutes on their own in it. I'd probably start very briefly and extend it - ensure they are relaxed and a bit sleepy and have something to snuggle with. And open the door when they are calm. You really don't want any scary stuff happening but I think it's a nice way to introduce separation from the litter. I think 6 weeks would be fine but slowly, slowly and depends on the individual pup of course.