The Spotted Devil

And I think prey drive is much more complicated than we give it credit for. Working Springers tend to be much more persistent hunters than working Cockers (despite developing from the same breed). A Springer will work ad infinitum in the hope of finding scent. And they don't need a reward either - the process of hunting and scenting is extremely self rewarding. That's why they are so successful at pest eradication (or even finding human cadavers) - they just keep going and going and going until they find the last rabbit etc eg Macquarie Island.

A couple of thoughts very quickly...make sure he has had a thorough vet check (not just a once over). I think that is very unusual behaviour for a one year old cocker. Even the puppy farm dogs I have helped rehabilitate (been in a pen for the first 12 months of their life) get the idea in their new home once you treat them like a puppy. I would also think about WHEN you feed as well as what. My own pup (that I bred) was a bit slower to toilet train as I was busy with her littermates before they went to their new homes plus she grew up in the living room (winter litter - never again!!!) so was quite comfortable peeing on the slate. However at about 5 months something finally twigged and she's been really fantastic for the last month.

Why do people choose to be vegetarian, or boycott Nestle, or decide not to smack their kids? We map out our personal lines in the sand on how we interact with the world and try to live by them as best we can. Some people choose to draw the line at yelling, some at collars, others at pliers on the ears. We constantly weigh up which course of action is most acceptable to everyone's wellbeing and will all come to different conclusions about how that path looks. I think that the use of e-collars requires EXCEPTIONALLY good skills and timing to be used properly. Most people can't deliver a food reward in a timely way...whether or not the e-collar works more quickly is arguable but I think the risk of fallout is much greater. Particularly because it's about the dog's perception about what it is being punished for.

I know of working Gundogs that keep chasing the rabbit no matter how high the e-collar is turned up. Gundogs get their satisfaction a long way from the handler - Spaniels can be soft...until that scent or movement pops up. It takes more skill than people imagine to get them working WITH you on complex tasks under distraction. I love that! 23kg cats :laugh:

I keep it simple with my Spaniels - if they are off leash they are working in some way - engaged with constant recalls, hand touches and tricks if not training or competing or hunting. They are not a dog that you can just relax with as they are gone before you can even get the whistle in your mouth to call them back :laugh: I freaking love 'em but they're not everyone's cup of tea... http://totallygundogs.com/the-trouble-with-springers-part-one/

IMO if it ain't shocking it ain't a shock. I have used e-collars. I find them more trouble than they are worth. But at the low settings that are used for most training (not aversion training), they are about as shocking as a light pin prick. My dogs were far more bothered by the vibration mode (which is a vibration, rather like you mobile phone's vibrate mode) than by the electric signal. As for 'correction' vs 'punishment' . . . a correction is done to correct, systematically, and unlike a punishment, must not be anger-based or aimed to hurt. I disagree. A positive punishment is something you add that decreases the likelihood of that behaviour occurring again. Changing the language to "corrections" muddies the waters. Negative reinforcement is about taking something away to increase the likelihood of that behaviour occurring again. Both can be aversive with or without being noxious. Both can apply to e-collars.

Cat when you're away from training, practice going from chilled on the mat/in the crate/in the car to FULL ON and back to c h i l l again! It's a whole other training game that you can play!

It depends on the class structure I guess - I'm doing foundation stuff with my pup (only just turned 6 months) and she is crated between exercises. Gives her a chance to relax and teaches her to come out training hard with lots of energy in between. My adult dogs similarly. If your crate is close by it's super quick and much easier to listen to the instructor in between times too. However, I would work on a relaxed down if I didn't have a crate. An hour is a LONG time for a pup/dog to remain focused. Even my start line stays are trained with LOTS of focus, drive and tugging.

sheena - this is not directed at you as I understand you are hindered in that you are instructing. Cat - dogs not running should be crated and rewarded heavily for calm and quiet. Lunging on a harness will do nothing for your dog's focus and impulse control when it's your turn. Even my feral Spaniels have to learn this!!!

I would imagine that if it were restricting her movement, then she would be dropping bars etc Not necessarily - but each to their own, just not something I would do. I don't understand why you would NEED to run a dog in a harness - so if I don't need something I don't use it. Just in case. I know fly ball dogs wear harnesses but the jumps are much lower.

Personally I would not have a harness on a dog that was doing agility - I know some of them claim to not restrict movement but that is probably for normal walking and running, not jumping. I run my dogs naked but if anything would only use a fixed collar. Certainly my pup is off leash on a fixed collar for jump bump training.

Nope. Dogs do what is rewarding, plain and simple. If they know they can access the rewarding thing when you're out of the room they will wait. They DO NOT know what they've done wrong. What you are seeing is appeasement (and sometimes fear) - they associate the dug hole or wrecked rubbish bin with you being cranky. They don't comprehend that THEY are responsible. Understanding this makes dog training much, much easier.

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Oops - sorry. See you want an alternative to Bunnings.

Just remember that clickers are very powerful - whether you get the timing right or wrong. I prefer using a verbal marker as it gives a little more leeway if your timing isn't great.

Mine will give them up to me no problem but less likely to each other. I keep mine separated because a) puppies are damned annoying lol and b) I like to foster independence - my lot could not care less if they are separated, even Mama and daughter. They are also learning patience whilst others are being trained.

I live in the Dandenong Ranges - there are bush ticks but definitely no paralysis ticks. We have forest on our block and are one house away from National Park. We have lots of echidnas, possums, wallabies etc and no tick incidents since we have been here. I don't use tick protection up here.

Big frozen icecream containers with water, dash of low salt stock, chopped veggies - multiple frozen ice blocks.. Tip them out of their moulds and they will have a ball. And not too high value to argue over. I keep pup separated during the day - next to the adults but not with them.

Surprisingly stuffed dogs can be really good to practice on - check out your local op shop. It's great because it gives you much more control over the situation.

They don't stop chewing when the adult teeth erupt - there is still quite a bit of uncomfortable teeth movement to go. Mine always love to chew timber - must be the right texture. I provide veggie pig ears, frozen chicken frames etc which seem to work. Training wise I do LOTS of value building games on both sides using food and tug and moving forward as a reward. Lots and lots. It will pay off for agility too.

...it's not meant to offend you ... just some food for thoughts... :) I don't think it's a matter of trust. I think it's a matter of thresholds - fear is often the cause but it's not well recognised. I agree that introducing triggers slowly in different environments and at a greater distance will help. The "Look At That" approach i.e counterconditioning, is one I use and teach a lot. It's surprisingly effective.

I have always wondered about this too. Or it's not worth paying to get them out because they are too old or too ill, or it's cheaper for the pound to put them down. Probably some from column A and some from column B.

Just to add to this, Mr TSD can't even be in the room for vaccinations so he comes with me but stays in the waiting room.

My zoo are always there for me when I need them most. The least I can do is be there when they need me most.

Agree. The other consideration is where will puppy sleep at night? There are not many pet friendly motels that will allow a crated pup inside and pup will need to be toileted overnight.