The Spotted Devil

There's honestly not that much solid research around - which is why it's so tough to give guidelines. Yes the skidding motion after a moving ball puts a lot of strain on the joints. Self play is fine and if you videoed it, it would probably look different to chasing a moving ball. Nice grippy surfaces, balanced diet, keep pup lean and you'll give him the best chance. I'm not sure how my pups survive to adulthood sometimes! Crazy things!!!

That level of structured exercise is fine. My Springer pups run themselves ragged but they get to pace themselves. I never, ever throw balls for my pups or adult dogs. They do a LOT of retrieving but it is all very structured and thoughtful. I use proper retrieving dummies and they don't get to retrieve until it's settled on the ground). What you really need to add into your routine is MENTAL stimulation - training for treats, playing tug in a controlled way (i.e. an offered sit to play tug and then "out" when asked), recalls, impulse control etc etc. Your walk should be about socialisation and impulse control and training rather than exercise. I hope that helps!

I would suggest you approach the various cat orgs and pick out some vet clinics - I'm sure they would be happy to pass it on to their members and clients. The link worked beautifully - I'll share on FB.

Are you able to give me a link I can share on FB please? Now that I've done the survey it won't let me link it.

Done! Really interesting.

That's hilarious. And yes Springers do get exactly that muddy

It's quintessential growing up music for me

What???? Hunters are legendary @Papillon Kisses!!!! Grew up with the sound of them on the radio.

Hahahaha just saw this elsewhere. Priceless.

Totally love this idea - PLUS teach your pup a "Look At That" cue. Great for excitable pups and very handy when they go through their whacky fear periods. Counter Conditioning....look at the thing, look back at me and get a treat. Best game!!!

I have the Snooza D1000 - one of them is on its 3rd puppy! I have heard that VERY persistent chewers will tear them up but I love them. That and an op shop blanket until they grow up.

It's helpful for me as I can organise leave from work plus I won't compete in Agility/retrieving trials and will modify her training.

I might use praise for a slower response or if I have to help - and then absolutely ramp it up with a retrieve, cheese and wild game of tug.

@WoofnHoof you raise a really interesting point. I've always said that my working Springers struggle to maintain a trot but they can run and turn on a dime in a way that never ceases to astound me.

Also look at food allergies. Beef, lamb and turkey have that effect on one of my cats. Chicken and fish are the only proteins I can feed her. It was late onset too.

My pleasure entirely. Thanks for being so open to suggestions.

KobiD, what I tend to suggest to people is to take the interpretation out of it - work ethic, sense of entitlement, getting paid weekly etc. What you need to remember is that you as a human being have a much larger frontal lobe than a dog. You have the ability to apply logic, have a sense of self and consciously consider the past and the future. Your dog is different. Look at the behaviour in front of you. Just because she could do it yesterday doesn't mean she can do it today. There are often things happening that we can't perceive. Motivation changes minute to minute, distractions pop up, the body is developing physically and emotionally. I have a 22 month old ESS who is suddenly sooky and all over the place emotionally - focus takes huge effort from me, she's super sensitive and needs her confidence built up. It's possible her hormones are up and down because she seems to be having a false pregnancy. But that's not an excuse. I just look at the dog in front of me afresh every day and train her. Whatever she needs at the time - split the behaviour down, reduce distractions, manipulate quality of reinforcement. Quite simply it is what it is.

If you go to Vic Agility website have a look at a few catalogues - some of them list participant numbers - remembering that not all of us enter all of the trials. But it's really grown here just going on my observations.

Dependent on treats is a bit of a furphy really....sorry just home from work and need to play with my doggies. Back later

Oh at 3 or 4 months I'd be rewarding EVERYTHING!!!! If I really needed to get out the door I'd pop pup in his pen for a few minutes. Don't work on a behaviour unless you're prepared to follow through. So I've had a pup bouncing at the door and I've just stood there ignoring him and replying to emails on my phone. Manage what you can't train.

There always needs to be reinforcement. But not always food! It could be a game with you, playing tug, retrieving, being let off the leash, getting in or out of the car or even just being released from the sit. When I open the front door, my dogs are expected to offer a sit and they are rewarded by being allowed in or out. No sit. No reward. Now if you don't want your pup to go outside then maybe the reward is to send pup to grab a toy to play tug with you. Remember that doors often mean someone arriving or the dog getting to what they want....which equates to increased arousal. Hence the biting and frustration. It's as difficult as landing the pup in a novel environment. Try having dry treats discretely in your back pocket, reward the sit then send for the toy for a tug game. Mix up how you deliver your rewards and the toy of reward you use. Does that help?

Good to know! I ended up getting the 25 as that's likely enough - depending on litter size - to get me started. So appreciate the heads up - have been looking for a solution for ages.

Just ordering on line now! MPW has a spare grass mat as a bonus

Sounds perfect @Alibi thank you so much for the info. So I need the kit plus a spare mat plus extra pads?