BC

Did she move all 4 feet ? I think that is NQ for the higher classes but not 100% sure for CCD.

I would suggest a good dog obedience club to get him more socialised with other dogs and seeing other dogs around so they're not as interesting to him. You can then start to focus him on you. You need to be more fun than the other dogs. I would also suggest as already said, get a professional in to assess him. It costs a fair bit of money, but it seems an issue you are keen to get around, and better for Buster too.

My dogs nails are worn right down to the pink so no clipping here. Running around on hard surfaces does wonders !!! Vinnie does get his nails painted sometimes in a nice red polish much my OH's disgust :D

Also, be prepared for the dog hair stuck to you everywhere, down your top (including your nipples :D ) in your socks/shoes, on your face etc. I have had hairs imbedded in my arms and feet that I have had to tweeser out. And yes, you will get used to being weed on, cleaning up poo and vomit :p But you will still love it :rolleyes: (speaking of being weed on, while I was blow drying a pom yesterday, I was touching his tummy to keep him standing and thought, gee the blow dryer is a lot warmer all of a sudden. Nope, I was being weed on and he had to do it after his bath, little bugger)

Try a different word like "wrong". Sometimes the word NO does not mean much to a dog as it is used in general conversation heaps. If you change the word, and say it with a stern voice, maybe the reaction will change? Or when it happens just walk away. cant play nice, dont play at all :rolleyes: I hope you have a bit more luck. Optimus, as already said, if you dont like the behaviour try and discourage it now so it is not a problem when the dog is older. Some puppies may grow out of it, and it could be long term for some if the behaviour is not modified early. Mine dont hump any objects, but sometimes try to hump each other when playing, which I dont do anything about. I just let them go and play, and hump each other, and wrestle etc. If it was an object or a leg however, I would discourage it, but just IMO.

Could be some skin irritation, and rubbing is helping him itch. I have a dog I groom that has awful skin problems and rubs herself along the slats under the bed and couches etc to scratch herself. Not saying this is it but could be a possibility. A trip to the vets would do the job and they'll prob do a skin scraping just to check if there is anything going on. Or, he could possibly be a cat in disguise ;) Dunno about the lump ?

Will not sit or drop in that spot either. Ive tried holding him close with the lead, but he will either kick up a fuss and behave like a bronco :D or just become a "dead" dog when we get close. OMG, same here. What is going on If I try and push the issue mine become a bit of a Bronco too or he walks backwards and then drops. I now discretely just move to the side a bit if I know there is something there he hates, but the heeling gets me

I think you will need to get the Styptic powder from a pet shop but the rest you should be able to get from a chemist.

I also heard that labs dont mature until about 2.5 to 3 years old Poor thing. I would go the kong filled with food that is hard to get out like peanut butter or similar. He needs something to think about that will tire him out.

I keep a limited one on me while grooming. More because I cut myself, but one day a dog may receive an injury (touch wood, I have never caused one) Non stick bandage and gauze Styptic powder Antiseptic I keep these basics to initially treat a wound and then if need be, head off to the vet. Cavandra has given some great everyday items though that would be handy to keep in the car and in the house incase of an accident involving the doggies.

Does anyone else have this problem. Occasionally my BC will not sit/drop etc on certain parts of a ground and it's getting a bit frustrating. I know he hates being anywhere near other dogs poo, which is understandable, but sometimes I really need to enforce the sit command, which I should not have to do, as he looks at the ground and then looks at me realkly worried as if to say "I dont like that bit mum". I can never see anything there and have no idea what is on the ground that he does not want anything to do with. Occasionally in heel work he also does a quick step to the side aswell and then jumps back in close to me as if there is something he is stepping around ?? How do I get around this as when trailling you are always on differnt ground obviously, and I dont want him to continue doing this in the ring.

You would think I am awful :D On Fridays my dogs dont get a meal at all as it is their training day Your dog will not starve herself. If she is hungry she will eat. If you put her meals down, whether you feed once or twice a day, take them away in 10 minutes if she has not eaten all of it. Also, last thing you want is an overweight dog from a never ending supply of food ;)

The club I'm at goes either way. They do not allow check chains on pups, but some instructors encourage them when the dogs are a little older and if they feel they need it, but you can train however you want. Either way you get the assitance you need. I dont use a chain and just use food when I'm training there. The club I'm at has puppy class, conformation training, agility, obedience (of course), jumping, endurance etc. All of them so everything is there that I need and there is such a choice of how you train your dogs. I love it

Not me but Paul is fantastic, will be great

Full time groomer with a mobile service, but have done salon work too. Majority of my work is clipping, and I do all breed standard clips, or anything that the client asks for. I love doing schnauzers, bichons, poodles, spaniels etc. They look great with their specific clips. I also love a full day of washing too, which I occasionally get. Makes the day go very quick. As showdog said, if you are good at what you do, people definately pay. If they want to go somewhere else let them. When they get a crap job done, they will be calling you back and will pay the extra you charge. For the standard Malt or Shih clip I will charge $60 as this is very straight forward and depending on the dog, usually doesn't take that long. When it gets to the other clips, I charge more. There are that many people out there who just hack and chop at the dogs and they look terrible, especially mobile groomers. I get heaps of business from these people. I have done the Doggy Dooz training and that was great. Very hands on and no stuffing about. You walk out knowing exactly what needs to be done on each breed. I normally do around $250 to $300 per day and that is just normal hours around 9 to 6 or less, with a lunch break at home in between. Most of my clients now are regulars and they keep me fully booked everyday. New clients normally have to wait about 1-2 weeks if they want me to do it. If you're good, you will do well, but I would not be as busy as I am now without the clipping. Just washing I would struggle. To make the same amount of money per day just washing I would need to do around 7-10 dogs per day. I also love chosing my own hours and days like today where I chose to have a day off cos I can :D Good luck

Possibly. One will still be the boss. I would not risk it personally but thats just me. But then again, they may never have a fight. I dont mean to scare you, and when I say fight, I mean more disagreements, not a full on tearing each other apart, but I dont like the fact one cant get away if the other does have a snap or gets upset for some reason. It could also happen over a bit of food or anything like that. But as said, this is just IMO. I like to prevent things before they even happen. I'm sure other people have both dogs of the same sex in the one crate and have never had a problem ??

As long as he is fit and healthy it will not be a problem. It's a standard procedure and most dogs are back to normal within a day or 2. And as ARF said, reduced risk of prostate and testicular cancer.

Personally I would crate train in seperate crates. The reason being, 2 males are going to start work out whos boss when they get a little older and you would not want them both locked in a crate and have a fight. There is no way out and harder for you to break up if it happens. They could also fight or have a bit of a snap over lots of things like toys etc and seperate crates also gives them a little bit of their own time too. This is JMO though. Some people always keep their dogs crated together, but I prefer not to for such reasons. You can get 2 crates and just sit them next to each other. Crate training takes patience and persistence. Start by making the crates a happy place for the dogs. Feed them in there, play with them in there, give them bones, treats in there so they will associate the crate with a happy and safe place. As T S Devil said, do a search on crate training and you will find heaps of info. Good luck

Everyone will probably tell you a different time to desex, but I had one boy done at 6 months as per vets recommendation and the other done at 5 years. The one done at 6 months has never really marked that much, only if he sees another dog wee he has to go on top of it, but the other one did to the point of driving me insane. Hence me getting him desexed. It has worked wonders and now he only cocks his leg when actually needs to wee (not on every blade or grass or grain of sand he sees) and occasionally on walks.

My staffy x hates the rain, but it is my BC who is the worse and he always runs around in the rain getting muddy. I dunno, its a mystery. Is there a sherlock holmes out there that can solve this for us

Try this one. Mum and dads desexed male pomeranian, wees on his food before he eats it Everytime mum puts his food down outside, he wees in it and then start digging in and eating. Mum has given up trying to stop him from doing it. He wont eat if you hand feed him, if its on the ground or another bowl he will still wee on it and then eat it. What the ?????????????

When my 5 year old dog was desexed the cocking of the leg decreased by 90%. He now only does it when he actually needs to go to the toilet, or occasionally on walks. It did definately work in my case and it was within a couple of weeks, but I have heard that it does not work on all dogs immediately. I think it can take some dogs a little while before the testosterone levels decrease ?? (please correct me if I'm wrong) But it does reduce the need to scent everything. In your case the change would most likely be becuse the other dog was there so he is prob making sure evrything smells like him again. You may want to think about desexing if it is really becoming a problem and it is an option for you.

I dont know whether this has been discussed before, but does anyone know what is in the Advantage, for example, that makes the dogs hate it so much. Mine run and hide when I get them out of the cupboard, and a few dogs I groom and give their monthly treatments to are exactly the same. They cringe when it is put on and stick their tails between their legs. Does is smell really bad to them or is there something in it that causes some funny feeling when it is applied ?? I'm stumped as to why they hate is sooooo much.

I would possibly invest in a little waterproof jacket that can be straped at adjustable lengths around the neck/chest and tummy. That way you can just tighten it while she is still a puppy and have it nice and snug. That way you can still use it when she gets a little bigger, and if it is raining and she decides to go and walk around in it, she is not going to be stuck in a wet jacket/jumper all day. If you cannot find one that is small enough (you should be able to though from a good pet store stockist) you can get them made. It will cost you a bit more but I would not want my dogs in a wet jacket all day as I know they venture out in the rain occasionally and to go to the toilet. Good luck with everything and let us know when you have any luck

Because you have trained her using puppy pads I dont think she understands that she is to go to the toilet on the grass, and I am assuming you have no grass in the courtyard. When toilet training I always took my pups out nearly every half hour to an hour, outside, and would stay out there until they went. Sometimes I may have been standing outside for 15 or 20 minutes with lots of praise when they did go. I think you will now need to retrain her to go outside to the toilet JMO :p Is it possible to leave her outside during the day, until you have trained her. That way she has to go outside, and by removing the puppy pads when you're home and taking her outside, she will learn that is now where she has to go. Also, puppies and older dogs in new surroundings, someone elses house, will often go to the toilet anyway. The fosters and friends dogs I have had in my house have all gone to the toilet somewhere sneaky. Its easier just to keep them outside or you will need to watch them like a hawk. Good luck