BC

I've had one with a pen lid stuck in the mats

No Warley, wait until you have seen a fly blow dog (bum full of maggots). That one took the cake for me. Along with another dog I had to rinse maggots from its back leg, and it was just screaming Dont worry, these dogs got vet attention as I took them myself.

so the hair can actually grow the wrong way and get into the canal? what happens when it gets into the canal? Can it be attached at both ends? If a dog gets water in its ear is shaking usually enough to get most of it out? The hair just keeps growing down the canal of the long haired breeds and if it is not plucked is what leads to matting, and infections etc as it continuously grows. If its done on a regular basis, as PW said, with powder and using your fingers, it will never get to that stage. It will not attach at both ends, just keep growing into a ball of hair inside the ear as it has no where else to go. Fine hair on the inside of the ear, such as your pap, and even my border collie, is quite normal and I just leave it as it does not grow continuously. Try and avoid getting water in ears. This can lead to ear infections. I guess shaking will get some of the water off, but best to avoid it.

You should not need to do paps ears. Just clean them once in a while. The ones that really need doing are the Malts, Shih Tzu's, Poodles, Bichons etc. The ones that actually grow down the canal. Paps will look long, but will stick out, not grow into the ear so you can just leave them, or trim them with scissors if you like, but I tend to leave them so not to change the ears appearance.

I clean dogs ears with baby wipes, and only the inside flaps. Never dig down in to the dogs ears to clean. There are some products out but I have never used them, but I'm sure someone on here has. The long haired dogs need their ears plucked to prevent matting in their ear canal, just like the hair would matt on their body, and let air in and help prevent infections. I have seen it that bad, that the entire ear was completely plugged with 1 solid matt. I wasn't going to pluck that one. I sent them to the vet. I have also plucked hair out that has grown down the ear canal and has come out about 10cm long and bright yellow :rolleyes: The dogs dont like having it done very much, but when I think of all that hair in my ear, I would rather put them through a few seconds of pain than having festy ears.

Aaaarrrr, Another grooming horror tonight. I have seen some pretty bad things grooming, as I have listed in other threads, and this is not sooo major, but I still nearly threw up. About 6 months ago I groomed these 2 little dogs, and told the owner that one had an ear infection and she needed to be taken to the vet. She took her to the vet and apparently vet said, cant find anything wrong. I advised her to go somewhere else, and left it at that, assuming she did, cos I cant force someone to do something. I groomed these 2 little ones again tonight, and the ears still stink, all feet are infected with some sort of crusty yellow puss, and all cracked and bloody, and the owner then said she has been rubbing her bums on the bricks, so I looked at her bum, well what was left of it. No hair what so ever, and the most painful looking, red raw cracked skin, aaarrrrr And I was not going to express anal glands cos her bum had to be painful. I bathed her and clipped her and went to speak to the owner about what needs to be done, and after lifting her tail to show the owner her bum, to my horror, there was a tape worm sliding in and out of her butt :rolleyes: I felt the color drain out of me, but of course I could not leave this hanging out of the poor little thing, so I had to catch it when it slid out again ;) I'm glad the owner saw this as she was taking her to the vet straight away. On my way home I found a little stray so I took him to the vet, and saw them there, so I'm glad she is finally being seen to. ;)

I'm charged $62.00 for consult, vac and health check. I'm not overly fussed about the cost. I like the vets and they've known my animals since puppies.

While heeling I use my left hand for all signals. Stops me twisting my body and pushing my dog out. Heel (or close as I say) my arm straight down, with palm facing in the direction I'm walking and a quick push forward. Stand - arm straight down, palm facing behind me and a slight wave outwards in front of my dogs face. Drop - Arm straight down, flat palm facing ground, and a slight push towards the ground. While heeling, I also hold the lead in my right hand, and have my left hand flat against my leg while I'm not signalling. I'm happy with my signals as I'm straight, and upright, and there is no need for me to twist my body or lean over much at all. I'm quite anal about "messy" handling, and I like things, short and sharp with minimal effort if that makes sense. Just remember, you will need to retrain your dog to respond to any new signals you chose so make them very exaggerated to start off. Good luck

On the really really hot days in summer I keep mine inside all day, but without the airconditioner. This air con is only on when I'm home aswell. I find they sleep all day cos of the heat, so I just find it easier and more comfortable for them inside. They also have a clam shell that they dig in, and that cools them off aswell.

Yep, good old working dog !!!! You need to first of all understand why they do this. As far as I know, it is to get you moving, or if a trained working dog, to get you moving in a certain direction. Personally, if it was me, I would stop every time I was nipped, and once the dog settled, start walking again. You could also try what shellbyville said and try and redirect the nipping into a more desired behaviour. Please post this is the Training forum, and I'm sure you will get some good training methods on how to stop this. Good luck

I think its definately the harness. There wont necessarily be any blood. The rubbing will just wear away at the skin, rubbing layers off and then causing the scab. I would try sewing some wool or something soft around the areas of the harness that rub.

I agree with NicoleL. 2 x 10# 1 x 7F# - This blade will also get under most matting 1 x 5F# If you dont have a 30# or 40# you can use a 10# under your comb extensions, but the shorter blades leave a better finish under the comb. I like the finishing blades, but you can also get for example, 7# and 7# skiptooth. Dont recommend the skiptooth until you have a bit of experience under your belt. Good luck. It's hard yakka at times but I enjoy it

Mine usually have a munch on the grass every morning when they go outside for their wees and they're 3 and 5 years old

Mine are treated equally. Who ever is the best behaved and settles first when I get home is the one that gets the first pat. When feeding they just stand in their crates waiting, and which ever bowl I pick up first gets fed first. The other just waits. Sometimes Vinnie is on the couch with me and sometimes Cooper. They both get their fair share of everything and all is equally spread between them. Cooper is definately the boss, but with me treating them equally I dont have any issues between them at all.

Hello, Just to make it clearer to me are you wanting advise on how to teach the pup further without words, or how to explain the training to the owner ?

I use Wahl straight

yipee yipee, got 90/100 and second in ring at our very first trial ;) Now just got Wangaratta and Bendigo to go, and all going well we will get 3 passes in a row. And guess what, I was number 1 But I was sooo relaxed I could not believe it. And Cooper had a ball !! He loves his work so much and is sometimes a bit too keen to get in the ring

I dont use treat bags. I always wear a vest, the pockets are very easy access, or I store the treats in my mouth. (No not dog food, hot dogs etc) Makes my dog watch me constantly.

I love the doggies like that I have a handful but my favorite is Max, Goldie x Lab, and always always tries to get into his bath before I have even said Hello, brushed him, anything. I dont even tie him in the trailer as it is hard yakka trying to get him out !! As soon as I open that bath door his is in and sitting in 2 seconds flat, then when its time to blow dry, he lies, belly up on the floor of the trailer, four legs spread open, with his eyes closed However, it does make it quite difficult to dry his back as all he wants to do is roll over and snooze

You need to keep him on lead to teach "come". Take a few steps forward while heeling, then walk a few paces backwards with "(his name) Come" Make sure you have treats handy so there is a nice reward for him coming, and lots of praise and play when he comes to you. It is not something that is learnt overnight, but once you think you have mastered this from a short distance on lead, try a longer lead, and then a longer lead again, and when you are even more confident, try it in an enclosed area off lead, and keep going from there. Remember, you have to be more fun than everything else !!!!!

:D They must have been very comfortable pillows Just tell him how much better he will feel being a bit lighter in the back end

I'm picky with what instructors I have and what dogs I am next to so I change classes/places accordingly. If the 2 instructors I like are taking the class below, I even go in the lower class. These instructors support me as I do some things a little different and some other instructors dont like it, or question me about everything I am doing, so I prefer not to go with them. If there is a dog next to me that I dont have much confidence in, I change spots in the line or circle. Speak to the instructor and let them know your concerns, and you should be able to change classes or not do excersices you dont feel comfortable with.

Thanks guys. Not yet LP, but hanging out for 08 August

As long as they've both dropped nothing to worry about, pretty normal/common

Yeasty smelling gooey ears normally ear infection. I would definately make a trip to the vets and they should prescrobe some ear drops