BC

Dont use a Furminator on a BC, it is too time consuming to use it correctly on a BC and can do more damage and cut the coat if used incorrectly. I use a good rake, and then layer brush with a metal comb. When blowing coat it needs to be done daily on Cooper for around 3 days.

One club was a good jerk on the correction chain down towards the ground to force your dog to drop The new club is your choice from a stand position, but I prefer luring with food from a stand.

I thought you could only use the dogs name at the start of the excersise? and would think it was a "0" due to using it during the excersise. Bummer ;) I stuffed on the weekend too !!! Coopers first CD trial, and I threw the dumbell while he wasn't watching me (my fault) and when I said "fetch" he took a couple of steps out and then looked at me as if to say "fetch what" Me the stupid dumb handler ;)

The GSD's I know are very interested in toys praise etc, but it could be the case of the dogs are not hungry enough, or food is not tasty enough !! Cooper was not interested in food until I found out what he could not resist.

I think you will be pleasantly surprised :D Just remember a Kelpie will want to work regardless of what the work is !!!

Very early days. This is something that is going to take a long time to accomplish, so there is no harm in continuing the food until you feel she is more confident. This will most likely be months and months or hard work on your part and heaps of food rewards. When training my dog in competition obedience, I had him on food for an entire 6 months prior to even taking it away occasionally, as he had no issues, so it is going to be a long road, and try not to jump ahead of yourself. When you get to that stage of not using food, you dont take it away completely, just reduce the amount. When she has more confidence generally, try just rewarding with food every second time, then every third time. But I would never take any reward away, regardless of the dogs skill/age etc. Good luck

I was thinking some sort of skin condition. Cooper has tiny little grey patches on his head, from when he's been playing too rough and he had little scabs. The hair has grown back white/grey, just in tiny patches.

Can you post a pic ?

Mine in their crates munching away.

Yep, I hear ya. They are all going to start coming out of the woodwork soon. Goldens, Borders, Long Haired Sheps, I get them all. As Doggrooma said, these double coated dogs use their coat as an insulator, and it does not require clipping. Please consider just a good tidy up and brush out as I had mentioned.

There is no goldie clip as they are not supposed to be clipped but people do request it. I have done a few and have always been requested to completely shave off. They end up looking similar to a lab. To just tidy up a goldie I will clip/scissor all of the hair out between the pads and around the very base of the foot to make it look more neat and compact. The feathering is neatened up with thinning shears and hocks are taken slightly shorter with scissors then thinning shears. I will also take the thnning shears around the outside of the ears if the hair is quite long and stringy, but that is it. Some people like the pants to be taken back sorter etc, but this can look funny if the dog has a thick chest. You will not be able to take back the length with a comb extension as the hair on their back sits very flat. The comb will take chunks out of the coat on the dogs back, but the chest and pants etc will be short. Personally I would just tidy up, but if they're wanting the dog clipped, take it all off on a 4 or 5 blade to keep the coat even.

The original "Kongs" are indestructable I have a round/ball shaped one which is great to play fetch with, and also put food in, and the funny pear shaped one. They are quite expensive, but its worthwhile in the long run when you think about how many toys/balls you will need to replace. I often put meat frozen in ice cubes or something in mine, and a big smear of peanut butter or livamol has them licking for ages.

Really?? I worked in an office for 8 years and had a shocking back. Ever since I started grooming, I have never had any back problems. I find I am way more active and even when leaning over the hydrobath, am always moving so I dont get any back pain. I must be

Mine is a franchise and all I pay is a standard set fee per fortnight so you are not penalised for working harder. I take all of my bookings and work my own hours (only 4.5 days now), and pretty much do as I please. The only thing they ask is you use their products, which are top of the range, and email them a monthly statement, with whatever amount you wish to write up on it. (sorry tax people) You are salon trained, no tafe courses etc, and you if you ever have any problems I call the owner straight away, no on else, and all is sorted. I have never had any problems but just incase there is never ending support. When I first started the owner called me twice a week to make sure I had enough business and to make sure I was OK. We do all breeds professional grooming, not just staight clip offs and half arsed jobs etc, and all marketing etc is done for you. The trailer is in the shape of a dog (a bright blue one at that) so is a brilliant marketing tool in itself. The amount of bookings I picked up just from being parked at someones house or the shops etc is amazing. My client base is approx 90% regular, either 2 weekly or monthly, and myself, and the others near me are fully booked for approx 2-4 weeks at a time mostly due to the regular clients. All franchises are different and you will need to do your research. Some a dodgy and I would not touch them with a ten foot pole, but I made my decision after around 2-3 months of research and heading out with franchisees for the day just to see how it all operates and to make sure it is what I wanted to do. Dog grooming is hard work and not for everyone. I did it this way first of all, as starting up yourself, with no experience and trying to compete with a frachise such as the one I own, I would really struggle. It is a higher outlay, but I have found it much easier and there are many more benefits. Its completely up to you but either way make sure you do your research. If you want to know who I am with please PM me. Also, where are you situated ?

There are a few cavs competing in UD !!!!!! But poodles are very versatile little dogs and can excel at either obedience or agility.

do you know the name of the cd by any chance?? This one is from a company in the UK. http://www.dogtrainingproducts.co.uk/sounds-cd.php This company is in Western Australia and looks great too. http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DTB748 Both of these have more noises on them than the one I have used, so either would be great for Rogue.

The smaller dogs I regularly see do very well in obedience trials are: Cavalier KCS Sheltie Corgi Minature Poodle With the health problems you were wary about with Cavs, its like any breed, do your research on the breeders and lines, and you should not have any real problems. You can also de-frou frou poodles, although I like them all tizzed up Just keep their coat short and ditch the ears and top knot and there you go, no more frou !!!! All of these dogs can work very nicely indeed :rolleyes:

I will do this if that is what the client wants, or if I have the choice to do what I want I will if its gunna look better. It really suits the shape of some dogs faces, but can look a bit dicky on some. Just explain it to your groomer next time, or show them a photo if you have one and I dont see any reason why they would not be able to do this.

Yep, I go every year when I get the reminder notice from the vets and normally in there for at least 15 minutes. Cooper is actually due this month and this has just reminded me. The bad breath could be something in the dogs gut or something nasty going on in the mouth, such as absess etc. Dont know whether the papilloma would have any affect on her breath as isn't it a wart under the skin ?

This is the Geelong Obedience Dog Club. www.godc.org.au

Good luck BC!!! I am booked to go for both trials and should be a good day. Knox is a good club But not sure if I'm going yet as my girl still has issues in the heeling and don't want to compound the problem. However, I may well turn up, go in the ring for thirty seconds and if she does her usual trick withdraw and march her back to the car LOL. So look out for me and I will look out for you if I go. I have a German Shepherd and she heels lovely outside ring. I am in CCD. Good luck anyway!!! Great, will definately look out for the GSD in CCD, assuming you're there. Dont laugh at myself and Cooper though

There are CD's out there, specifically for this, with noises on them such as thunder, fireworks, wind etc that you can put on in the house to desensitise your dog. You need to put them on at the lowest level, (even if we cant hear it the dogs can) and then as your dog gets more relaxed with these sounds you can increase the volume level each week for example. If your dog is going silly, just ignore the reaction, dont speak to them at all, and if your dog is pacing around etc, just crate them until they have settled. I have used these prior to entering parades etc, and now Cooper rarely reacts to any noises at all. If so it is just a look to see where it came from then he looks back at me, but no barking, crying, pacing, nothing. Could be worth a try. I cant remember where to get the CD's from but try a search and see what you come up with.

This is mine a Coopers first CD trial. Dont think we will do any good as he is prob not 100% ready, but we will see how we go. I could be surprised !!

BARF is to be fed twice a day, with one fasting day. I feed mine once every evening, but little bits during the day when doing some training.

Yep, fun isn't it !!! Try getting "Bruce" the 50+kg Alaskan Malamute in the bath without him eating your face off, let alone bathing him. (One of my regualr dogs that will never ever like it, apparently due to the previous groomer to me ) I have had a bull terrier rip my hose off, and 2 dogs that continously attacked the hose and my hands, and one massive dog that was trying so hard to get out he cracked my hydrobath door. All dogs like this are tetherd on a short lead. Luckily, most of the dogs I do are regulars and dont need to be restrained in the bath at all. Its a matter of them getting used to it. I find that the first time they're scared and dont know whats going on. They do jump and pull and have a bit of a teary, but I dont react. I do not react at all to silliness. If you try and calm them etc they get worse and worse and think there is something to worry about. I also prefer owners not to be there, but if they want to stay and watch fine. However, if they're yelling and screaming at their dog to sit down etc, I will ask them to walk away. The dog is usually much better when left with a groomer who has a more controlling manner. I find after the next couple of hydros, they are OK, maybe not completely enjoying it, but know whats going on and just deal with it in a calmer manner. In saying all of that, if I find the dog is working its way into an absolute frenzy that it could be of a danger to itself, I will stop bathing and speak to the owner to woerk out a different solution.