dancinbcs

When people loose an old dog I usually advise them to wait a while to give them time to grieve for a dog that has been a big part of their life but when it is a puppy that has died I think you would better to try to get another as soon as possible. Is the breeder able to offer a replacement puppy or can they organise one from another breeder for you.? If the puppy was born with this defect the breeder should either replace the puppy or refund the purchase price. If a replacement is not possible then you may like to consider getting a different breed so you won't be comparing the new puppy to the one you lost. It is just so sad to lose a puppy that you were all excited about getting and it is tragic for the breeder as well to lose a puppy they raised for 8 weeks. As a breeder the greatest worry is selling someone a puppy with a defect that was not detected in the routine vet checks. If there is a problem the breeder needs to know before the puppy leaves because no one wants to sell a sick puppy. It is hard enough having to put down a puppy that has a problem detected but far worse to know that you inadvertently passed that problem onto someone else.

First, if she is in a harness, get her out of that and into a crate. None of the dogs I have bred have ever been carsick except one that was put straight into a harness as a baby. I started picking her up to take to shows and had her loose in the back of my wagon with no problems, but she was still sick in the owners car. Once they took her out of the harness and left her loose she was fine. When she had a few months to get over it, they were able to use the harness again. Second. A friend who does TTouch has had a lot of success putting T-shirts on anxious dogs, including those that get carsick. Get a childs T-shirt that fits snuggly and if necessary gather the back up with a hair band to make it fit snug around the chest. No idea why it works, but apparently it does work.

The neuter animals are still the offspring of breeding stock, so getting more of the offspring into the ring lets you get a better picture of what the lines are producing. Also as has been pointed out some have been used for breeding but had to be desexed for health reasons before completing their title. Why should they not still be shown? Others are already titled but again had to be desexed and their show career would have otherwise ended.

Desexed dogs on the main register can now be shown and work towards the title of neuter champion. Only a few shows offer the neuter class (class 18) but there should be more in the future. They do not compete against the entire dogs because the females have an advantage of not having two major coat drops a year like the entires do and with both sexes the temperament is usually calmer once they are desexed so it is not a level playing field. Dogs shows were devised to promote purebred dogs and compare breeding stock and it is only in the last few years that a dogs "performance" as a show dog has become as important than how it conforms to the breed standard. So they have decided to allow neuter to compete as well. Show dogs are judged against a standard set out for their breed so there is no place for crossbreds at a dog show. How could they possibly be judged and what would be the point?

Get her progesterone tested to see if she is ready. She may not be anywhere near ready yet. I have known of successful matings as late as day 26. Novice stud dogs will often jump all over a bitch long before they are actually ready to mate. The more experienced tend to not waste energy until they know the bitch is spot on. Once you know she is ready from a progesterone test and if the dog is still not getting it right, get an AI done to take the pressure off everyone. Often a novice dog will work out how to mate a bitch within a couple of hours of having an AI done.

Have never heard of these but what a brilliant idea, especially for cats. Dogs I can train but cats are another matter altogether. With dogs I find growling at them and pushing them off the furniture works. You then need to sit on the lounge to claim it as yours. The message needs to be that the human owns the lounge and will not share with the dog.

Agreed that the rapid improvement makes it sound like it is not parvo but if it is the only way you would know if it came from the breeder is if they have dogs ill with parvo. Otherwise it is quite possible that the puppy picked it up the first day or so that you had him. This does happen despite breeders taking all precautions. Infections like parvo can simply be walked into your house or yard on your shoes. The puppy was vaccinated but sometimes the puppy still has some immunity left from it's mother and in that case the vaccine does not always work completely. This is not the fault of the breeder, it is just something that happens sometimes. The breeder's attitude needs some adjustment but breeders often tell buyers things that are not taken in with the excitement of getting the puppy. If the breeder has had coccidiosis on the property she may not have wanted to worry you but prefered to tell you to contact her if the puppy had any symptoms so she could pass on the appropriate treatment. This may have been what was wrong with your puppy and he may not have needed a vet but yelling at you for panicking with a sick puppy is not going to help anyone. The first rule for any puppy buyer should be to contact the breeder immediately, if the puppy becomes ill in the first two weeks or if possible take the puppy to the breeder's vet. If any of the rest of the litter have become ill the breeder or their vet may already know what the problem is and it can save a fortune in vet bills if you already have an idea what it is. Breeders choose their vets very carefully and really good vets are few and far between. Far too many are simply out to extract the maximum amount of money in as short a time possible. I hope your puppy recovers quickly and it sounds like he is on the mend. I doubt the breeder has actually done anything really wrong here except for failing to understand how helpless a new puppy owner feels if their puppy gets sick and having an arrogant atttitude. That is a character fault but does not make them a bad breeder.

It is pretty normal for a lot of Borders to go through a second fear period around this time. I remember one of mine developing a thing about letterboxes and another one with garbage bins. They seem to suddenly see the world differently as if there are monsters lurking and they grow out of it pretty fast if you treat them as if they are just being silly. If they react to an object, I walk up to it and call them, encouraging them to sniff it until they realise there is nothing to worry about. With a stranger it is a bit harder but if you again take the view that it is just a silly adolescent reaction and keep calm they usually take their cue from you and calm down. The other problem of course is that this is a Border Collie and many will herd anyone or anything that moves, so if she was trying to herd the man she would have been frustrated because he was not going where she wanted him to. I never let my Borders anywhere near strangers that are running or bike riding. It is just not worth the risk of them possibly chasing someone one day. The other possiblility with the situation you described is that she simply didn't like that man. I find bitches in particular very intuitive about people sometimes and tend to trust their judgement. If they suddenly take a dislike to someone, they usually have a good reason, even if you don't know what it is yet. I always let my bitches decide about buyers for their puppies. If the bitch doesn't like them, they don't get a puppy. Without actually seeing how your puppy reacted it is hard to make a call on what caused it.

with the kelpies they are the same line of dogs but they go way way back and from there on they were bred to be i think less of a high instinct that are a more compainion dog and built differently for different reasons and they only allow show dogs to be solid colours so blacks and red etc are only allowed to be shown not sure why my kelpie whos a blk n tan is just gorgeous and i would have loved to show her.. anyways some people just prefer that type of dog but when you own or get one you have to remember their purpose, because its inbuild into them from their line some arnt as high drive or instinctively born to herd or work. but if you own one you may have to work them mentally alot more then physically? due to there breeding and type Don't know where you heard that about the colours. Quoted directly from the ANKC Kelpie breed standard under colours: "Black, black and tan, red, red and tan, fawn, chocolate, and smoke blue", so all those colours can be shown.

Great to hear you sounding so positve Jed and your kids look like they are doing well. I am more than happy with my Dell Inspiron. I bought it June 2008 intending to use it just for email and a bit of net surfing. 12 months later in July last year, I took on full time computer studies at TAFE, so since then it has worked all day every day and hasn't given me any trouble at all. I am hoping it continues to behave until I finish my Diploma at the end of the year and can get back to work so I can afford another computer as a spare before I wear this one out completely.

Haven't tried them because mine don't wear collars but I have heard some good reports about them from several people.

Why put her through two lots of surgery? :rolleyes: Just wait until she is mature and desex then.

Also think about getting some cat traps from the RSPCA or AWL and get rid of the cats.

If he is fighting an infection it is normal for him to need rest. I wouldn't be encouraging him to play or taking him for walks at all, just let him rest and recover. After an illnes like this he probably needs at least a week before you encourage any real activity. Whatever the infection is, the main problem is making sure he is on the right antibiotics. If he is he should be starting to improve with a drop in temperature and increased appetite, if this isn't happening you need to get back to the vet and see if her can change the antibiotics. The temp could still take a week to get back to normal but it should be continuing to drop.

Just be very careful of how many people you allow in the first few weeks. Some bitches can seem to be coping with visitors when they aren't and the stress can cause them to lose their milk. I find that maidens especially make better mums if there is minimum interferance during the whelping and with the babies for the first couple of weeks. For the first week I weigh the puppies in or next to the box and never remove the puppies to where the bitch can't reach them. I keep visitors in the first two weeks to maybe one or two breeder friends known to the bitch but they never touch the puppies at this stage. The puppies should be handled by no more than 2 or 3 people at most in the first week or two. From two weeks the bitch is usually less stressed and more handling can begin and by three weeks lots of socialisation can be very good for the puppies, provided mum isn't still really protective.

Border Collies and they are VERY ACTIVE as babies. They are also rather tough babies, never delicate like some other breeds. It amazes me to see breeders with other breeds at the vets with litters of 6-7 week old puppies in baskets or boxes with an open top. You could never do that with Borders. By the time you put the second puppy in the first one would already be out running around again. Basically from when they get on their feet at about 2 weeks they are eating sleeping or moving around, they never just sit or lie still while awake. They are also master escape artists. The best effort I have seen was a 5 week old puppy that climbed a 90cm fence of chicken wire and just dropped over the other side to get out and play with the big dogs. If you use occy straps to secure puppy pens and fences they just chew through them. Oh the joys of Border Collie babies. They sure keep you on your toes. The up side of this early development is that we can train them early. Mine are always partly lead trained and almost toilet trained by 8 weeks and know the meaning of their basic commands of watch, sit, stand, come drop, heel and just for fun "shake hands", before they leave.

My breed seldom whelps naturally after 63 days, more normal would be 59-63 but this girls previous litter went right to 63 days and the was c-section because she has a large amount of green discharge. I think doing an elective on what would be day 62 is safest for Chilli as she will receive the best care by a great vet and that is the most important thing but I am also mindful that the litter is sired by my 10yr old who has been a very sick dog so this might be my last chance to get something dwon from him. Ok, sounds like a good idea then. An elective caesar if often a much safer option with a bitch that has already had problems and the skill of the vet is very important. Good luck with it and hope mum and babies are all fine for you.

At least that sounds promising that she was probably mated after ovulation, in which case she may go into labour before the weekend anyway. Do you know if your breed tends to mate before, at or after ovulation? In other words do they usually whelp after, at or before 63 days from mating? It does tend to be a breed thing of when they mate. Some breeds like mine, usually whelp at 60-63 days post mating and anything after 63 days is usually a problem. Some other breeds normally whelp 64-66 days post mating because they mate early. Having that sort of info about your breed can help make a decision in these circumstances. Try to find out as much information as you can before discussing options with your vet. I don't envy you or any other breeders that don't have ready access to wonderful repro specialist vets that are on call 24/7, like I have. Don't think I would be game to breed without them.

Most bitches do not have silent seasons, first or later but the ones that have true silent seasons are impossible to detect, except by a stud dog. None of mine have ever had them but I have known of bitches that do not swell at all and have no discharge but have been mated by a dog that picked up on the season. Others are simply detected by the dogs and their owners have to assume the bitch is in season by the dog's behaviour, even though there are no signs.

Did you do progesterone testing when she was in season. She is due 63 days from ovulation, not from mating, so if you know when she ovulated you can pick the exact day to do the caesar. The other option is to prog test around when she is due and wait for the drop. Most vets prefer to do this for an elective anyway because the risk of bleeding is greater before the progesterone level drops.

Don't just use treats to teach him to sit, use them to get him to move. Take him into the backyard and using treats encourage him to walk beside your left leg without a lead. Practice walking along just a few steps then step back and call him to come to you. The idea is to teach him to follow you around. Once he is doing this over a few days, attach the lead but do not put any pressure on it. Just let it hang loosely between you as you repeat what you have been doing without the lead. Once he walks along happily with the lead loose, just put a little pressure on the lead as you call him to you for a treat. Gradually increase the lead pressure at intervals and release the pressure as soon as he responds to it. Then practice in the front yard. Keep all training sessions to less than 5 minutes, several times a day and use you voice to let him know when he is getting it right. Lots of praise every time he shows he is willing to follow you. He is not stubborn he just has no idea what you want him to do. The laws of physics always apply, if you pull in one direction he will pull in the other or stay still to resist the pull. A lead should only be needed to stop him wandering off and it can be used to give signals to the dog. Once a lead is tight and being pulled by either the dog or the owner it is useless as a training tool.

I suppose it depends on the breed. My puppies start escaping the whelping box at about 10 days and by 4 weeks are racing around the yard, playing, chasing, digging, climbing, doing lots of interesting stuff. One of my friends has another breed and they just stay in the whelping box eating and sleeping and looking cute until about 5 weeks. The difference between the development of the breeds is quite astounding. The same thing applies with food. By 6 weeks our puppies can tackle a chicken wing, unsoaked puppy kibble and love to gnaw on a hard 2x4 biscuit but I have heard other breeders comment that their 6 week old puppies struggle with puppy kibble unless it is well soaked. So when you have visitors in can also depend on how advanced your puppies are in development.

Yes our girl was successfully bred after using the chinese herbs and finally grew a decent coat after many years of trying. We use Lyn Pinosa from Alternative Therapies in Austral 02 9606 8922 and I have breeder friends that travel from as far away as Dural to go to her. She has a particular interest in fertility in both dogs and humans and is proving successful with both. It is a bit of a drive easy now with the M7.

I allow visitors from 3-4 weeks but it depends on the bitch. If she is really protective I give her a little longer and if she is the sort that wants to show her babies off to everyone, it can be earlier. I also ring the vet to check out the current parvo situation in the area. If there are no cases of parvo around I allow earlier visits. I like puppy buyers to come weekly from 4 or 5 weeks so I can get to know them and decide if I really want to sell them a puppy. I don't like to make a definite decision until they have visited 2 or 3 times at least.

They may be registered pure breds but I doubt they are show dogs. No one in the show world refers to a breeding pair. It is so politically incorrect in the world of reputable breeders that it always rings alarm bells.