dancinbcs

Just found this information. "Campylobacteriosis is a common cause of enteritis (intestinal inflammation) in man and several animal species, including dogs and cats. The disorder is caused by a bacterium, Campylobacter jejuni. The conditions associated with an increased risk of developing campylobacteriosis are: • Animals with diarrhea • Young animals • Crowded housing conditions • Poor sanitation • Stressful conditions, such as pregnancy, surgery, or other illness • Concurrent infection with other intestinal pathogens such as parvovirus, Salmonella, Giardia or parasites Campylobacteriosis is a leading cause of intestinal disease in people. Puppies and kittens can serve as a source of infection for humans. In many cases, dogs and cats are carriers of the organism, but show no clinical signs. When clinical signs are present in dogs and cats, it is usually in animals younger than six months of age." Also discovered that in humans the incubation period from infection is usually two to five days, with a range of one to ten days. I don't suppose you will ever know for sure where he was infected but desexing followed by the trip to Sydney and back could have compromised the health of such a tiny puppy. It is a lot of stress in a few weeks. I know most puppies bounce back from early desexing and have seen dozens done when I worked at a shelter but I don't like the idea at all and also worry about what they could pick up while at the vets at that age. After this experience you will probably be reluctant to export again but if you do, either don't desex the puppy or send it at a later age. Where any of the other puppies desexed at the same time? Strange about the AQIS vets. I don't see how Jetpets could not recognise paperwork done by an AQIS certified vet. I haven't exported but have many friends who have and our vet just does all the AQIS stuff before they organise transport.

I'm a little confused on the timeframe. When you took the puppy to Mascot was it to leave him at Jetpets or could you not find an AQIS certified vet closer to do the inspection? Just wondering because our vets are AQIS certified and I am not sure why the puppy went to Mascot two weeks before his flight. If it wasn't hereditary was it still something congenital, did the illness have anything to do with the early desexing or if it was something contagious, he could have caught it at the vets while being desexed? From what I can make of this I would say the buyer is entitled to a full refund, including the AQIS fee, but less something for your time and money to take him to Sydney. It is tragic to lose a puppy at this age but if the puppy never left your care, then I can't see how the buyer should be liable for any costs.

Agreed. An on lead dog is under effective control unless the lead is long and the owner isn't paying attention to what it does. An off lead dog is not under effective control if it makes an unwanted approach to any person or animal and the owner is unable to prevent this by calling it back. Doesn't matter if it is an on lead or off lead area. No dog has the right to make an uninvited approach.

Having worked in a large pet supply warehouse some years ago, I heard many opinions from customers on fly repellants but the one that seemed the most popular was vaseline mixed with citronella oil. It coats the ears, softens and protects the skin and repels the flies. Best of all it is cheap to make. Not sure on the mix quantities but I think just enough citronella to leave a faint scent in the vaseline.

I don't like puppies to be just left with the littermates after 8 weeks. If the litter has been split up and kenneled with dogs other than the mother or littermates it it might be alright but 8-12 weeks is when they really develop their own personality and staying with their littermates 24/7 does not allow this to happen. The dogs may still make perfectly fine working dogs without this socialisation but not necessarily good pets. I don't like the fact that the dog has never been in a car either. You could be stuck with a dog that gets carsick all it's life. Mine start car rides at 4-5 weeks to avoid this problem developing. I really think you should wait until Elbie is older to get another puppy. You could undo an lot of his training and the new puppy will only want to play with him and will not react to you like Elbie did. Also if you are only going to have two dogs, think ahead 13 or 14 years and you will have two old dogs together and probably lose them close together. Also you say Working Kelpies don't have any health testing. Well they should, just because they work, they are no different genetically from other dogs. As you pointed out, if there is a problem with a working dog the farmer just shoots it. I would be asking how many haven't made the grade and why. Ataxia is mainly a problem in working Kelpies, so far they don't have a test, but they are working on it. I would be asking what they know about ataxia in their lines before buying because the WKC are funding the research, so all breeders should know about it.

Just googled JPS because I didn't know much about it and found the following. "Identification of candidates for the JPS surgery •Dogs should be preferably 4 months of age and no older than 5 months of age for this surgery to benefit from the surgery •PennHIP radiographs should be made to assess the dog for loose hips •I recommend that all breed susceptible dogs such as Labradors, Rottweilers, German Shepherds, Golden retrievers and other breeds should be tested at 4 months of age using the PennHIP technique" So how the hell can any vet recommend this surgery without a PennHIP evaluation is beyond me. Doing this surgery on a healthy puppy is malpractice.

What on earth did they want to do surgery for?

My repro specialist vet never x-rays pregnant bitches, they do ultrasounds. I know vets used to do x-rays of pregnant bitches but my vet has had an ultrasound for many years. Edited to make sense because I left out a coupke of words.

My reply copied from another post on here. I start mine at three weeks with mince in little balls then mixed with a little warm water to make a slurry to teach them to lap. Then gradually start adding puppy kibble to the slurry and adding less water. I don't substitute any milk until about 5 weeks if mum still has plenty then I start giving meat/kibble meals followed by a drink of milk substitute (usually divetelact) and start dropping mums food down. By 6 weeks they are on a variety of meat/protein sources including chicken wings to chew, dry puppy kibble, hard dog biscuits and milk drinks totalling 4 meals a day. I let the bitch decide when she wants to stop feeding and it is usually around 7 weeks.

If you are seriously interested in showing then you need to approach breeders with the intention of buying a show puppy. In some litters there may only be one show puppy and if the breeder is keeping that one, the others will only be sold on limit. Other litters may have 3 or 4 show quality puppies and many breeders would be happy to sell one to a genuine show home on main. Breeders with more space and money are more likely to keep any really good quality bitches they produce, so sometimes you have more chance getting a bitch puppy from a smaller breeder who has to limit their numbers. One problem with selling a main register puppy to a potential new show home is that they may not decide to show after all and desex the puppy. This is then a complete waste of a good quality puppy that should have been used as future breeding stock for the breed. It is a catch 22 situation. If you never trust anyone new with a main register puppy, there are no new breeders, but if you do, you run the risk of losing top quality dogs from the gene pool. A lot of breeders require co-ownership on main register puppies until they get to know you because many have been caught out by people posing as show buyers, that are in fact dealers that sell puppies for export to Asia. It has been a problem in my breed in the past and many breeders are wary of signing over a main register puppy to someone they don't know. There is nothing worse than selling a top quality puppy to a keen new show home, only to find that they passed it on to a dealer, who onsold it overseas for ten times the price, to a puppy farm. The other scam used on breeders is newcomers buying a puppy to show, going to just a few shows, before giving up but becoming breeders just producing puppies for profit. This has happened to me with a litter sired by one of my dogs. These people where showing two young bitches and bought the son of my dog from another breeder supposedly to show as well. All seemed good for a couple of months, than they stopped showing and proceeded to breed the dog to those bitches every season, despite being told that there was a potentially fatal genetic combination with one of the bitches. If you go into a co-own situation make sure you have the details in writing. Some breeders expect to get the bitch back to breed a litter or two and this is actually breeders terms, but others are happy to just leave their name on as co-owner to protect the puppy from being onsold to someone else and to have a say in what it is bred to. In all other ways they consider the puppy belongs to you. If your daughter really wants to show it would be a good idea to take her to shows and get to know some breeders. Pick one you are happy with and let our daughter offer to help out at the shows so she learns about the dogs and the breeder learns about her. Once they get to know her thay are far more likely to let her have a really good show puppy if they think she will do it justice. If there are really not many breeders in your area, then put what breed you are after on here and ask for recommendations of breeders who will work with you to get you into the world of dog shows. Good luck in your hunt for a puppy and remember you may have to wait to get one that is really worth showing.

I know you say you prefer the straight working bred dogs but have a look at Wingdari at Peak Hill. They mainly show solid colours but do breed dogs with tan points as well. Not sure about the colours with Kla at Cowra but both these kennels have been around a long time and have produced some great dogs. Whatever kennel you go to ask about epilepsy and ataxia in the lines as well as hip scoring.

Chicken or dog wire mesh over ringlock works so long as they aren't climbers. Ringlock on it's own is only suitable for breeds too big to squeeze through it. For climbers you need the higher deer fencing.

If Mandela likes fish, have you tried feeding canned salmon or tuna. I get the pink salmon and the tuna in brine from Aldi for my dogs. Much cheaper than other supermarkets for fish. Many of my friends also feed the cheaper canned mackeral. I once had a dog with gout and she was not allowed to have any red meat or sardines for a whole year. She lived on salmon, tuna, brown rice or barley and vegetables. Sometimes I made up a white sauce of carnation or lactose free milk, thickened with cornflour to make like a mornay and my dogs now love this as well. You may not be able to do this though if you can't use the cornflour. Anyway my fish dog never looked better, her coat gleamed and she survived quite well on her fish diet. I no longer use any dry dog food and have fed a combination of raw meats/bones and veges, eggs and canned fish, with a little brown rice or barley, successfully for over 10 years now.

I have never had a case of coccidiosis and have only known of a few cases in puppies over the years so I wouldn't say it was common. I bred for about 15 years before I ever heard of it. Birds carry it so there is nothing you can really do to avoid getting it in your yard. It is just sheer bad luck unless you keep a lot of birds and don't keep it under control. Anyone who has kept reasonable numbers of pet birds would be aware of it but I'm sure many dog breeders would never have come across it.

Perhaps the vet does not usually have breeders in with breeds that have them removed. Lots of breeds get to keep their front dew claws so unless the vet sees a lot of litters they may not be used to doing it. I have never removed front dew claws and after reading up on studies that point to the fact that the wrist is more stable for activities like agility if the dew claws are left on, I'm glad I never considered it. When possible I try to breed them without back dew claws as I believe it is a dominant gene and at least one parent had to have had them to produce them in the puppies. Depends on the breed. I have sibes and they are active, WORKING dogs. The last thing you want is to be sledding/carting/mt biking and have one ripped off/half off by iced snow, ice itself, something sharp or big thats in the way. Its very dangerous once they are older. Yes, it does depend on the breed but I have Border Collies, a very active WORKING breed and very, very few BC breeders have ever removed front dew claws and most of us have never had a problem with them ripping them. Borders are more likely to rip their stopper pad and this is a very common injury, along with a long list of other common injuries Borders inflict on themselves but torn dew claws are very rare. Actually more than the breed I think the shape of the dew claws is the issue. Mine all have neat tucked in dew claws and if removed it would leave a large dent in the leg. I have seen other dogs though with dew claws that stick out away from the leg and these must be much more likely to get caught and damaged so I can see the need to remove them.

Perhaps the vet does not usually have breeders in with breeds that have them removed. Lots of breeds get to keep their front dew claws so unless the vet sees a lot of litters they may not be used to doing it. I have never removed front dew claws and after reading up on studies that point to the fact that the wrist is more stable for activities like agility if the dew claws are left on, I'm glad I never considered it. When possible I try to breed them without back dew claws as I believe it is a dominant gene and at least one parent had to have had them to produce them in the puppies.

Thanks everyone In regards to reducing your bitches food - how much and how quickly to you reduce the bitchs food intake?? I like to do it gradually from when the puppies are 5-7 weeks until they are down to their normal maintenance ration. Of course it depends on the bitches condition. If she is thin she may need to stay on an increased amount for a bit longer. If she is fat she could be knocked back to her normal amount a bit sooner. My girls usually have about twice their normal amount plus extra milk/nutrigel milkshake suppliments so I cut out the extras first then reduce the food quantity each day over a couple of weeks.

I start mine at three weeks with mince in little balls then mixed with a little warm water to make a slurry to teach them to lap. Then gradually start adding puppy kibble to the slurry and adding less water. I don't substitute any milk until about 5 weeks if mum still has plenty then I start giving meat/kibble meals followed by a drink of milk substitute (usually divetelact) and start dropping mums food down. By 6 weeks they are on a variety of meat/protein sources including chicken wings to chew, dry puppy kibble, hard dog biscuits and milk drinks totalling 4 meals a day. I let the bitch decide when she wants to stop feeding and it is usually around 7 weeks.

Definitely not. By 6 weeks they need an area at least half the size if a suburban backyard to run in and will happy range over a few acres if given the chance. My last litter born a few years ago was my hardest to toilet train because I could not put them outside on the shavings due to extreme hot weather. Luckily there was only three and they spent most of their time in the laundry, inside the air conditioned house. I still took them out early in the morning and fed them breakfast outside and took them out for a last feed late at night but they would scream to come back in if put out during the day at all.

Do they have to be your own registered names ie: your own prefix? I have listed two of mine but know of some others from other breeds that are really good.

Dancinvale Grin N Bear It (Bear theme litter) Dancinvale Storm In a T Cup (Storm theme litter) Oops didn't see the link. Will put them on FB

I line my whelping room with a tarp before setting up the whelping box. I move the drybed to half of the whelping box at two weeks and then use a puppy pen to allow them out of the box onto more newspaper as they become more mobile. From three weeks they are taken outside to toilet first thing in the morning and after a few days they try to wait to poo outside. I also start feeding outside and letting them run around and toilet on the grass until they have all been. If it is raining I rig up tarps to create a covered area on the grass. From 5 weeks they move into the outside concrete run with a shed attached that has a warm kennel for a bed. They are pad locked into the enclosed run at night and if I have to go out but have a large extra grassed area made with puppy panels off the concrete one most of the day. The concrete area is covered in wood shavings to about 5cm deep and the difference this makes is amazing. The poop becomes coated with the shavings so is easy to pick up and it doesn't get on the puppies. I remove poop and obvious wet spots several times a day and sweep the whole lot out, discinfect and put in a fresh lot of shavings once a week. The shavings also repel flies and mozzies as a bonus. It has to be dust free shavings, not sawdust. Some of my friends use the shavings in pens set up in a garage and that works as well. Using this set up mine pretty well toilet train themselves.

The puppy needs to be x-rayed to find out what is going on. I saw a puppy a couple of years ago with a bowed front like that and it had no shoulder joints. The shoulder blade crossed over the upper arm instead if joining it. It wasn't a working breed though. The vets who deal with a lot of breeders of many different breeds had never seen anything like it. Seems that the puppy just didn't form properly. Dwarfism is always possible in any breed as a spontaneous mutation and there are different forms of it. Some breeds are known to carry genes for it but I am not sure about Cattle Dogs.

Excellent advice. Borders that are obsessed with balls or toys are actually the most reliable to train. Squeaky balls or toys are best because you can condition the dog to to come immediately to the sound even if you can't get them to look away from the distraction. My one with the highest drive was so obsessed with finding toys I dropped for him (obedience seek back exercise) that he would actually walk backwards off lead in front of me rather than go for a run in the park, just in case I dropped a toy and wanted him to find it. Nothing could distract that dog from wanting to work for me. Make the obsessive behaviour work in your favour. The other problem with the terriers is a clash of breed behaviors. Borders have their own unique way of playing and other breeds often don't understand their body language. Terriers work by a completely different lot of body language so it is probably best to avoid these confrontations altogether. Terriers like to stare down other dogs and to a Border Collie being stared at is a huge insult. This is the way they control sheep and they do not ever tolerate other dogs staring at them. Even at show training classes, I avoid taking a Border puppy anywhere near the terrier breeds because it makes them really uncomfortable.

The person holding Harry has been charged. An observant dog person saw them walking him and contacted Police.