dancinbcs

Buy a Jack Russell Terrier. Best ratters in the world.

While Borders are more than capable of scaling a 7' fence, most never discover this fact. Many Border live happily contained within rural fencing all their lives and never show any inclination to jump it. Ring lock combined with bird/rabbit wire is sometimes all they need. Some jump up and down, higher than the fence but never think to jump over it. If, however, you do have a jumper or climber, it is wise to look at additional options. An enclosed dog run, electric fence or invisiable fence could be considered.

Why does hubby get to be the only one in the family with an opinion. That type of thinking went out half a century ago. What happened to equality and an equal partnership in a marriage ? If the wife is going to be the main carer of the dog, the choice of breed should be up to her. I come from several generations of very strong women and cannot understand any woman that just does whatever hubby wants.

14 months is actually quite old for a diagnosis of elbow dysplasia. It usually shows between 3 and 8 months during rapid growth but it is still a possibility. Any injury in a young dog that causes a limp should be treated with immediate crate rest, with toileting on a lead. Not reduced walks - no walks at all. Never exercise a dog with an injury caused limp and especially never let it play with other dogs. Minor joint injuries can become very major injuries very fast if they are not given time to heal properly. This could be a hard lesson learnt. Now, crate the dog, get him x-rayed to find out what is going on and find a good doggy chiropractor. Treatment will depend on what the final diagnosis is. Hopefully someone near you can recommend a good vet and chiro as no one can diagnose elbow dysplasia accurately without x-rays.

Where do they get their animals from? Do they have council contracts or is it all surrenders? They are all surrenders.

I would be trying a camera to work out what is going on. Dogs usually don't take a dislike to anyone without good reason. They are either doing something that upsets him or he just knows something about them that you don't yet. Dogs are very good judges of character. The fence jumping can be stopped if you can attach some uprights about 60cm high to the top of the fence and run lightweight bird wire netting along the top of the fence, making it a little slack. He won't be able to jump clear over the fence and with no solid top there is nothing to grab to get over. The lightweight netting also makes it very hard for the dog to gauge the fence height so after one jump, they usually give up. The alternative is a double fence to keep him away from the fence on that side.

No way would I contemplate putting a dog in a box trailer. Do you have any idea how easy it is to flip one of them. I'm not even fussed on dog trailers because I know of people that have rolled them but they are a lot more stable and stronger than a box trailer. If you really want to take the dog camping get a dog trailer or trade the sedan for a wagon and stick the camping gear in a box trailer. I don't know where you go camping but keep in mind that dogs are not allowed in National Parks.

You did a pretty good job researching your breeder but letting the colour issue take priority, would have ruled out other good breeders. Buying from a first time breeder can be a gamble unless you can get to talk to more experienced breeders that have the lines behind the litter you are looking at. I often speak to buyers that are buying from breeders that have bred down from my lines. In your case you would have known at least a little about OCD risk if you could have done this, but it can still occur out of the blue in lines where it has not been seen before. The undescended testicles are pretty common in the breed and obvious at 8 weeks so that should have been pointed out when you bought Chester. Personally I would give a partial refund to cover the additional desexing cost if I ever produced a puppy with undescended testicles that were more complex to remove. Thankfully I am one of the few breeders that have never had this problem so far but I have also discounted for disqualifying faults like blue eyes, before, not charged more for them.

Congratulations to Penhryn on proving how easy it is to work out if breeders are trying to rip you off with price for colour. In one day she has rung several breeders, posted on here, found out what a reasonable puppy price is and which reputable breeders may be able to help her acquire a puppy of her prefered colour. If only other puppy buyers would do this in all breeds they wouldn't fall for all the hype from those cashing in on colour and giving breeders a bad name. It would put an end to breeders doubling the price of inferior dogs just because they are a particular colour. No more $1500-$2000 red or choc BCs and no more "rare blue" SBTs going at $2000 - $3000. All it takes is the brains to ask a few questions but for some reason most buyers don't bother. It seems common sense is no longer very common.

Better a good black & white than an inferior tri at inflated prices. I wonder why the only ones charging these prices are those that put no thought into their breeding, just using their own stud dogs all the time They also never show or achieve much in performance. Why do they also have to be people that have acquired my tri lines in order to rip people off ? Most reputable breeders breed mostly black & white, with colour just something that turns up. We breed for more important traits, like temperament, health, soundness and performance in whatever field we choose. Colour doesn't matter and the recessive colours will continue to pop up in our litters but should never be the main focus of the breeding.

How do they manage to put the semen in the fallopian tubes using TC AI ? From all the lectures I attended on surgical AI, that is where they said the semen was placed and the reason they do it surgically is because it is not physically possible to put it there by TC AI. Also why would you need to do more than one insemination with daily prog testing ? The bitch can only conceive within about 2-4 days after ovulation so if you are sure she has ovulated and the semen is placed correctly, there is no need for a second insemination.

A top show prospect from any show kennel does not cost any more than about $1000 (with just a few chargign up to $1200), regardless of colour, so they are very inflated prices. In Qld the top show price is actually only about $800 for some reason. Do not buy from anyone that charges more for colour than black & white. It proves they are not ethical breeders. It is not all that long ago that we were flat out to sell tri puppies because no one wanted the colour. By inflating the prices they make people believe there is something more desirable about the colour and unfortunately people fall for it. Stick to the show breeders and wait for the right puppy. Tris are much more common now than 10-15 years ago so the wait shouldn't be too long. Wherever you get a puppy it must have parents DNA tested for CL, TNS and CEA, or they can be clear by parentage. The parents should also be hip and elbow scored and this is something many of the colour breeders just don't bother with.

My girl was treated by Dr Ann Neville, a vet that also does Chinese medicine at South Rd Animal Health, Bentleigh, Vic. She can consult by phone and by doing hair analysis if you can't get to her. I did this with a dog with cancer then took him to Melb to visit Ann after his successful treatment. I had his sister that had the bladder problem with me as well and that was when she started treating her. My friend's bitch was treated by Lynne Pinosa from Alternative Therapies in Austral, NSW. Lyn is a doctor of Chinese Medicine and is qualified to treat humans and animals. She also does phone consults.

There are a few breeders that have tri colour turn up on a reasonably regular basis and a few others that get the odd one every now and then. Many lines though don't carry the tri gene at all so a lot of breeders will never have one. Do not ever go to any breeder that specialises in breeding a particular colour or colours. Colour should be the last consideration when breeding Border Collies so you need to put your name down with breeders known to have tri in their lines and wait for a puppy. You may find that one breeder will refer you on to another if they know someone else has a tri before they do. I will pm you some kennels to contact.

As a general rule the larger the dog the shorter the lifspan and the smaller the dog the longer the lifespan. Most breeds pretty well conform to this with the littlies living to their late teens, medium breeds making their mid teens and giant breeds rarely making it much past about 10. The weight of the breed seems more signifcant than the height with Danes living longer than Mastiffs for example. I really don't think longevity studies would make much difference to most breeds that fit what is considered normal for their size. Trying to add a year or two of old age onto their lives seems rather pointless. I much prefer to worry about their quality of life than how long they live but do expect most of mine to make at least 13-14 before they start to really turn into old dogs. Some large breeds however seem to have an average shorter lifespan than the giant breeds and in those breeds I can see the need for more studies. Dobes, Boxers, Bernese to name a few do seem to have realtively short lives compared to bigger breeds.

My guess would be she isn't ovulating or is ovulating much later or earlier. I had one to my first stud dog that ovulated very late. My dog was interested but we couldn't get a mating. We took her to a much more experienced dog after about 10 days (day 17) and while he was initially excited to see her, he only hopped on once then walked away. His owner told me the bitch wasn't ready. She was finally ready days 24,25 and 26. No trouble getting matings and she whelped a litter of 7. On subsequent seasons she was usually ready to mate around days 12-14 so no idea why ovulation was so late the first time we tried to mate her. I also know of a bitch that was only able to be mated days 3-5 and her owner didn't work it out until they tried for about 4 seasons. These were long before prog testing was available.

Dogperson stated her brother is not dog savvy, therefore he needs a dog that is happy to please him but not constantly thinking for itself. A Collie might also be suitable but most working breeds are not what I call easy going and require a reasonable amount of knowledge to raise one right. All can be wonderful dogs with kids but first the owner needs to know more than the dog. ;) I would never recommend most working breeds to a first time dog owner.

The only effective treatment I know of is Traditional Chinese Medicine. I had a bitch with urine/bladder crystals that caused problems for about 2-3 years. Her untrasounds showed sediment like sand in the bladder. I was told it could not be cured and would probably eventually lead to bladder cancer. A couple of months on chinese herbs got rid of the crystals completely and they never returned. More recently a friends bitch was diagnosed with the same problem. Same treatment also cured her. Feeding cooked barley and cranberry juice helps soothes the bladder if it is inflamed until you can get rid of the crystals.

Try to study photos and videos of BCs from the 80s, before CL decimated the breed. With DNA testing now available the breed is slowly getting some of the quality back that was lost but some of the lines have gone forever.

I have never had to rehome a dog that didn't turn out. I don't breed very often and only keep dogs that are as good or better than I have in the yard. Sometimes they don't turn out as winning show prospects due to size or attitude but that does not mean they are not worth breeding from. They are still sound dogs of correct type. If you choose the right puppies, there shouldn't be any need to rehome anything. In some breeds this doesn't apply due to things like mouths going off, but it is rare in BCs for anything to go seriously wrong, apart from size.

I would suggest a Golden Retriever, Springer Spaniel or Cocker Spaniel or maybe a Whippet, but no matter what breed the individual dog's temperament needs to be right. I would avoid the working group (except for Shelties) the terrier group and most of the utility group if your brother isn't dog savvy. Many from those groups are too much for a complete novice dog owner to raise properly.

They do seem to know their siblings even after months or years, but not necessarily like them. They definitely know their mum and breeder even if they haven't seen them for many years. Don't know if it applies to all breeds but BCs have memories like elephants.

I am completely paranoid about puppies being squished. She was a good mum but would jump up when people went into the kitchen, and not look where she was going in order to see if she was getting food. All of her toys had to be confiscated and replaced with light ones because she would drop them in the box for us to throw when we were looking at the pups. Mind you when pups got older and we put them in a play pen we would wake up in the morning and she would have jumped in and out to get ALL their toys and stash them in her crate!!! I wouldn't worry too much about a Kelpie squashing newborn puppies. We usually don't use the pig rails with Border Collies because the puppies get stuck under them or use them to climb out of the box after the first week. In all the years I have had Borders, I have never known of a bitch to lie on and kill a puppy in the first two weeks. They just aren't heavy enough to do that much damage. Sometimes the puppies get stuck behind mum and scream until you retrieve them but that's about it until they are a couple of weeks old. Once the mum is jumping in and out of the box or puppy pen more, there is a risk of her jumping on the puppies and injuring them but this is usually between 2 and 5 weeks. We have had a greenstick leg fracture at 5 weeks and I do know of just one case where the bitch jumped into the box onto a two week old puppy and broke his back. Very sad but thankfully the only one I have ever heard of. Good luck with your litter and just make sure they all get rotated on the teats to stop the bigger one hogging the best spot and keep the food up to the mum as much as possible. Nutripet is very good for upping the calories and keeping the milk up. At least with 9 mastitis is usually not a problem.

If the only puppies bred were from responsible breeders, there wouldn't be any need for pounds and shelters. I have worked for a major shelter, so have seen both sides and often wonder if people would be more responsible with choosing and raising puppies, if the option of dumping them at a shelter was not available. If their only option was to have them pts, the cycle might stop. Most dogs are in pounds because owners chose the wrong dog in the first place or didn't raise it properly. When it becomes a nuisance they dump it and get another puppy. And so the cycle continues. Why should everyone else be expected to live with the problems these morons create ? Owning a dog should be a pleasure and buying a well bred puppy from a responsible breeder is the best way to make sure you are not starting with a problem dog. Responsible breeders help with re-homing if one of their dogs needs a new home for genuine reasons and most well raised and trained purebred dogs have no problem finding a new owner, if their original owner has a drastic change in circumstance that means they cannot keep the dog. So many people surrender dogs because they believe the myth that there are lots of great homes waiting to take on their problem dog. Even telling them the dog will be pts the same day it is surrendered doesn't phase them. If they don't have to do it they don't care.The only trained dogs we ever had surrended to the shelter where I worked, were the few who's owners had passed away and a couple where the owners suddenly faced drastic financial hardship and had to move suddenly to a place they couldn't take their dog. None of these were purebreds from registered breeders who would have organised rehoming so they had to come to the shelter and in most cases were easy to rehome. The majority of surrenders with no training, had greatly reduced chances. So having worked in a shelter, I would never consider owning a dog from one.

personally if you allow your dog to be used then I consider you a breeder and the onus is on you to present your dog in the best possible way and any health testing that should be done for your breed, would have been done. That you will only allow your dog to be used over suitable bitches that meet your standard. That you are happy your dog can contribute to the breed in a positive way. I understand what you are saying, but...I have already said that I don't have the knowledge to breed to the standard I want in a dog, choose a suitable stud/bitch or to be sure that offspring would be a positive contribution to the breed. If I were ever to do this (LOL, not likely for a long time since every dog I currently own is sterilised), it would be on the advice & faith in someone who did have this knowledge...not sure if that would make me a breeder or not... That is how you become a breeder. Find a really good knowledgable mentor and be guided by them in selection of a bitch puppy and the breeding of at least your first two litters. From there you start to form some of your own opinions but if you chose the right mentor, their opinion will always be something you take into consideration.