dancinbcs

This is why I always carry a stock whip when walking dogs. Cracking it deters most dogs but if they keep coming they get to find out what it feels like. Unfortunarely it isn't legal to carry a tazer or a gun but either would be better. It should not matter if a park is onlead or offlead, there is never any excuse for letting an offlead dog run up to an unknown person or dog without it being invited to do so. The law states that even in offlead parks the dog must be under effective control and that means being able to call it back from approaching any unknown person or dog.

I used to take a week off for the few days before and after they arrive, then get someone to let the mum out and feed her at lunch time. Then full time at home for the last 3-4 weeks until they go. If there are no problems with the puppies, from about day 4 until about 3-4 weeks there is very little to do except feed the mum several times a day and clean the whelping box out twice a day. From 4 weeks I start house training, get them onto 4 meals a day, practice stacking and grooming and from 5 weeks start lead and obedience training and take them for car outings as well as organising vaccinations, microchipping, registration, puppy notes, etc. Then the most time consuming part is having the buyers visit and talking to them. With more delicate or clumsy breeds they need the attention in the first few weeks but with our BCs the mums usually do most of the mothering in those first few weeks with very little help.

Just had a look around that site and cannot find anywhere that states the treats are made in Australia from Australian product. It only seems to state that they are an Australian owned company, not where the treats come from.

If the mode of inheritence is not known then the breeder would not be able to do any sort of testing of the parents to avoid the problem. I have no idea how or if they test for liver shunt in puppies of breeds where it is common but congenital liver shunt can occur occasionally in any breed and is sometimes not detected until the puppy is a few months old. I have only heard of 2 cases in my breed in nearly 3 decades. If I ever produced one I would refund the purchase price and give the owner the option of returning the puppy or keeping it and seeking treatment. Unless a breeder knowingly breeds and sells a puppy with a congenital problem then they should only liable up to the purchase price of the puppy. Breeders don't have x-ray vision and neither do their vets. If the puppy is returned, the breeder may opt to euthanise. If the owner chooses to pay a large amount for veterinary treatment then that is up to them, but as it is not the decision of the breeder to do this, they should not be liable for the cost of that treatment. If however the problem is something that most other Yorkie breeders routinely test puppies for and a definitive test is readily available, then you may have grounds to seek compensation for the vet bills.

Only one parent needs to be DNA clear for the puppies to be unaffected. The other can be a carrier or even affected and the puppies will not be affected.

There is good and bad in every training method but they all boil down to body language in the end. Watch any successful trainer without listening to what they are saying and you will see what the dog sees and responds to. No amount of rewards or commands will work if you don't get the body language right. The more dogs you raise, the easier it gets because you tend to adopt certain body languge to communicate with the dogs without even thinking about it any more.

The problem with the reply you got was that it may be from a registered breeder but not a reputable one. Asking a deposit before puppies are even planned is not the norm and buying a puppy without papers means you have no guarantee the dog is even a purebred. Stay well away from this "breeder" and try to find a reputable one that will talk to you, ask and answer questions. Don't lump all registered breeders into the same basket with this one. When you find a reputable breeder you will work out the difference. If you really want a WA puppy, go to some shows, meet some breeders and their dogs and enquire about future litters. Remember a lot of good breeders only breed one litter every year or two so they don't just have puppies waiting. If you find someone you like they may even refer you to someone with a related litter, if they won't be breeding for a while. That is what we do in my breed. You don't need a puppy with "bells and whistles" but you do need one with a really good temperament that has been tested for deafness and is from parents tested for PRA and without patella problems. Hip and elbow scoring of the parents would be good as well. For some reason people are reluctant to buy from show breeders when they want a pet but the best temperament and healthiest puppies usually come from the show breeders who dedicate their lives to the betterment of their chosen breed. You cannot successfully show a dog the judge can't touch or one that is not not sound in structure.

I want to know exactly what they have achieved with their own dogs. What titles they have put on how many dogs, in how many disiplines ? Have they worked training dogs for customs, a drug detection unit, film work etc ? I recently met one "professiona"l pet dog trainer that asked me the most basic questions about training and has never trained a dog to trial in any area, yet she charges to train other peoples dogs. Learning theory and getting qualifications is all well and good but if they can't prove they can put it into action with their own dogs, I would give them a miss. Also many claim to be "accredited" but never say by who. There really isn't anywhere in Australia that I would be interested in accreditaion from. But the very best way to find a good trainer is by personal recomendation from someone else that has had success with their dogs.

It sounds like you have made great steps in training this young dog already and if you can stick it out and put some more training into him over the next 12 months, you will have a much calmer dog as he matures. Some Borders always remain very active but a couple of sessions of of fetch or agility work a day will take the edge off them. Also give him a minute or two of training many times throughout the day, whenever you are near him. Just a simple "go to heel" or a "drop stay for 20 sec" or maybe "heel a few steps with a turn", all followed by praise will help to keep his mind occupied. Walking long distances with a dog is something I used to enjoy, even as a child but it has not been possible in my neighbourhood for many years due to every second yobo now owning a pure or cross SBT, Amstaff or Pitbull. They are just about the only dogs you ever see in the streets around here, on or off lead, now that the fad for Rotties has died down. I have actually never been approached by a friendly off lead dog when out walking dogs. Anything out loose in usually into full attack mode as soon as it spots us and long before it gets near enough to see how my dogs might react. I have had friendly dogs rush at mine at shows and obedience, with no problem, but never out in the street. I carry a stock whip when walking in the park but an umbrella that can be suddenly opened in the other dog's face is also a good deterant. I would avoid carrying a stick because some dogs see that as a threat and react accordingly. Some play dates with another friendly dog or two would be a great idea and if possble get some help for yourself to get over this traumatic experience. Good luck getting back to enjoying your dog again.

Worming fortnightly, food, milk, vaccinations and microchipping could cost you at least $300-$400 per puppy by the time they are 8 weeks old. I hope you planned your budget for this. Raising large breed puppies is very expensive as they eat a lot and worming is based on weight. Also if the mum is still feeding them she still needs at least 3-4 times her normal amount of food for a few more weeks. I hope you have also worked out what you are going to do with any that you don't find homes for straight away. Large puppies can really send you broke. I remember a registered breeder with a large rare breed many years ago that sold his car to get the money to raise a litter, thinking he would make a big profit. Six months later he still had his original 3 large dogs and 8 of the litter of 12 that he couldn't find homes for. He was out of pocket thousands, was taking a second job to pay his mounting debts and seriously considering euthanasing some of the puppies that had cost him so much to raise. The demand for really large crossbreeds is even less. When I worked for a shelter we would have been lucky to place one in 6 months. Most were simply put down the day they came in because no one wanted them.

The reality is that most people on rural properties don't want a dog that hasn't been raised there. The risk of an untrained dog escaping and chasing the neighbours stock is just too great and many dogs on rural properties actually spend most of their lives on a chain anyway if they are not actually working. Farmers want puppies from working stock that they raise themselves to work. They are not interested in an out of control 12 month old dog. Very few dogs, especially of the working breeds, get to run around happily on acres all day. Many Borders live happily in suburbia with families but mental stimulation is even more important than exercise. The dog needs to go to obedience or agility training where he can exercise his mind and body around other dogs that are under control. Very long daily walks actually seems to make them super fit so they crave even more activity. I never walk my dogs in the street anymore after too many attacks by wandering dogs over the years, but I do drive most days to an area where they can be walked in a large park within sight of my car so if any other dogs turn up, I can put them straight back in the car. I also carry a stock whip that I know how to crack and use that to deter any dogs from coming anywhere near mine. The fact that your dog nipped a child is more a reflection of you not being careful enough, than any real problem with the dog. Anyone who has had Borders for many years knows that they can nip in excitement and has usually been nipped themselves. I warn all puppy buyers that if you or your children run around in an excited manner the dog will chase and may nip. It is a breed trait that some dogs never do and others do very strongly and owners need to be aware and prevent it happening.

Puppy weight at 8 weeks can vary a great deal depending on their birth weight as they gain a percentage of their birthweight each day. A really small puppy at birth will be much smaller at 8 weeks than a puppy that starts off at twice the size. My breed can weigh anything from 150g to 550g at birth and 3kg to 8kg at 8 weeks. Puppy size is absolutely no indicator of eventual adult size either.

I would still let them suckle mum for comfort and they need to be with her to learn to be dogs. so long as they are getting plenty to eat and drink they wont suck on her too long. When she has no more milk she will stop them feedign herself. Mine usually still suckle until about 7 and let the bitch decide when she ghas ahd enough. The milk usually dries up within a week. What breed are they ? My BCs never need help learning to lap or eat and rarely get any on them, they just hoe into the food. The dry food should soak down to mush about 10 min after adding hot water.

I would suggest a gundog for several reasons. They are usually good with kids and cats, don't have any tendency to chase stock and won't go off hunting. If you like short coats, try a Viszla, GSP, Pointer or Wei. Longer coat, maybe a Springer or Brittany and for a longer coat a Goldie. Labs have short coats but are probably the worst shedders on earth. If you really want to show, how about something more unsual, like a Field Spaniel. If you want something smaller that is fun to show, a Japanese Spitz ticks all the boxes as well.

If you are using di-vetelact get a 10kg bucket of it, rather than the tins that will cost you a fortune. I wean onto raw mince mixed with a little warm water and after a few days add well soaked puppy kibble. Then give a drink of di-vetelact after or between feeds as well. With one litter of 8 where the mum had hardly any milk, we weaned them straight onto lapping di-vetelact at 2 weeks and ended up using about 12kgs of it by the time they were 8 weeks old. Some breeders cut out milk supplementation after a few weeks but I prefer to keep mine on it right through and always give it to my adults as well.

Get everything checked out but I would try another dog from different lines. There seems to be lethal genes that we know nothing about, except that some combinations just don't work. Sometimes bitches from one line will not conceive or will re-absorb the litter if bred to dogs from certain lines. Either partner bred to a different line is fine. This was one of the findings from my vet's phd on puppy mortality a few years back.

If I had bred this puppy I would want it returned asap for my vet to investigate what is going on. If it is a toxin then the owner would be responsible but for anything else a refund is probably in order. It could be epilepsy, brain tumour, liver shunt, or any number of potentially fatal problems that could not be detected before it was sold. Please don't let your friend run up any more vet bills for anything other than toxins without consulting the breeder.

Yes well they need to justify their actions somehow, otherwise they could be seen as being heartless What actions? This dog is for sale, and I don't think there is a reasonable justification to sell a dog like that. If a registered breeder tried to sell or place a dog like that they would be crucified. Double standards at their worst. Responsible breeders pts any deformed puppy and never dream of passing the problem on to anyone else. Some may run on a defective puppy if is it is capable of leading a normal life for a short time but defective puppies should never leave the breeder. That includes heart defects and yes, sometimes deaf puppies as well because most of them end up dying young in tragic accidents. Deformed puppies happen all the time but no one ever gets to see if they turn out "cute" because responsible breeders pts. Dogs are a mulit progeny animal and nature never intended for every puppy to survive. I believe in quality of life over life at any cost and have no idea why anyone would want to keep a defective puppy alive to suffer ongoing health problems. Just because a puppy "looks happy" doesn't mean it isn't suffering terribly. Some perfectly healthy, happy dogs never look happy because of the shape of their face and conversely some dogs can look happy while suffering.

Some do and some don't. I know of dogs that became lethargic, threw up, suffered nausea and lost all their coat down to bare skin, so they can definitely suffer the same side effects. The worst one though is kidney failure. One dog I know of suffered through 8 months of side effects of the worst kind. Her cancer went in to remission but she died just a few months later from kidney failure.

Just be careful whatever you use doesn't make the floor slippery. One of the good things about concrete floors is the fact they are easy for the puppies to grip so their legs develop properly. White vinigar is an non-toxic, hygenic cleaner for concrete and keeps it bleached clean as well.

Sorry, I don't find that inspirational at all, but cruel. Why would anyone let a puppy like that live ? It is a dog not a child and dogs should be able to run and play like dogs.

I hardly ever leave my dogs at the vet. I always organise a time for surgery, ring to make sure there are no hold ups or get a new time if there are, then take them in and wait while it is done. Some of the vets are happy for me to watch the surgery, others prefer I wait in the waiting room. Either way I am there when they knock the dog out and there when they start to come round. Once they are fully awake I take them home. You have to be prepared for surgery to be delayed or cancelled due to emergencies but I prefer my dogs to be in the vets for as short a time as possible. Mine tend to stress a lot if other dogs are barking or crying so I like to be there as they wake from an anaesthetic to re-assure them and get them out of there asap.

They whelp 9 weeks from ovulation, regardless of when they are mated, so if the ovulation date is supposed to read 14th Jan then she is due to whelp on the 18th March. She was x-rayed too early and I really have no idea why people x-ray rather than ultrasound. My vet is a repro specialist and only does ultrasounds. If she was my bitch I would treat her normally and take her back to the second vet for another ultrasound on the 18th just to be sure. Also follow the second vets advice about monitoring the progesterone and also choose another dog from completely different lines next time. Some combinations double up on lethal genes and make the bitch re-absorb. At least be trying another dog and checking her progesterone you will be able to get an idea why she had a problem this time. If it is because she needs extra prog to maintain a pregnancy, then it may not be a good idea to continue with the line.

I don't think I would ever put a dog through chemo. I have watched friend's dogs struggle through $8000 to $35000 of treatment, only to die within a year. For that whole time they are never well and sometimes are really ill and all it seems to do is empty the owners pockets and prolong a few more months of misery for the dog. The initial treament quote for the one that ended up costing $35000, was just $4000. Then he needed more and more and it just kept adding up. The cancer treatment I and several friends have successfully used is Traditional Chinese Medicine. I bought one of my dogs 3 bonus, healthy, happy years for about $1000. No side effects and he was well right up until the last two weeks. A few friends have had dogs survive up to 7 years after a terminal diagnosis. We have mainly used Dr Ann Neville at Sth Rd Animal Health in Bentleigh, Vic. She can work by phone consults, hair analysis and co-operation from your vet and treat dogs without actually seeing them. She has has some amazing successes with cancer dogs and will tell you up front if she thinks the treatment has a chance of working or not, depending on the age and otherwise health of the dog.

Try these ones from Vebo. 48' high and if you get two and join them together it would give them a decent area to wander around in. Just peg the pen to the ground and they are pretty secure. http://vebopet.rtrk.com.au/?scid=44211&kw=4521904