dancinbcs

Is the puppy from a registered breeder? If so I would return the puppy to them and let them deal with it. If it turns out to have a congenital heart defect then you should request a refund or replacement puppy. The breeder also needs to know what is happening because they may not have ever had a puppy with a heart murmur before. Testing to find out what has caused a heart murmur can be very expensive and the breeder is only obliged to return the purchase price of the puppy if it is found to have a congential heart defect, not the cost of the testing. No puppy should ever be sold with a heart murmur. Some will disapear by 3-4 months of age but not after that.

I love all these too! However I would only think the Cavalier to be a proposition for the OP's situation. Even then I think a Cav puppy might be too fragile for kids that age. Most toy breeders don't sell to people with kids under about 5. Little kids tend to pick up little puppies and drop them. A small to medium size breed is better with little kids than the really tiny ones. From the point of view of the OP's children being frightened of dogs, a quiet Border Collie puppy would be ideal. They can be wonderful with frightened children if you get the right puppy but it has to be carefully picked by a breeder with lots of experience. I have seen them work wonders.

My JS puppy had leg x-rays with no sedation. My vets ony use it if they cannot get the dog to co-operate. I think I would have opted for an x-ray first without sedation and if nothing is broken, find a good chiro to treat the injury. Preferably one that does laser and acupuncture as well so you can avoid the drugs.

I agree with this. I am more than happy to have a reputable breeder with another breed make initial enquires for friends. I always tell my friends and family to never buy a puppy without letting me suss out the breeder first. The average pet buyer has no idea what to ask so it is always better if they have a knowledgeable friend to find the right breeders before making contact themselves.

This is not always the case. Some vendors of roo meat buy direct from the shooters, others, like my supplier buy roo from the abbatoirs, where it has been inspected & handled properly. It is pet grade but comes out of the abbatoirs that process kangaroo for human consumption. Were is there a Kangaroo abattoir and how do they transport and hold wild roos for processing? Some interesting articles. Roo as game meat Roo meat industry

I just have my first JS and thought that a JS with two preschoolers might be a bit much for anyone. They are more energetic and crazier than Border Collies. Adorable and entertaining but not placid in any way shape or form. :D Yes I agree with this.....my little pup is still going when the human kids are pooped :laugh: With kids about 5 years and upwards they are great but I think too much of a handful for a household with two kids younger than that.

I just have my first JS and thought that a JS with two preschoolers might be a bit much for anyone. They are more energetic and crazier than Border Collies. Adorable and entertaining but not placid in any way shape or form. :D

Out of the terriers I would pick a Border Terrier for this situation. Otherwise a Miniature Poodle, Cocker Spaniel or Shetland Sheepdog would all be suitable. I wouldn't go for a toy breed with children that age. You need a small but not easily breakable dog.

Plastic and metal bowls can sometimes cause those symptoms.Change him to ceramic water and food bowls first to see if it clears up before looking for a specialist. If the change of bowl doesn't work then he could have lupus. There have been a few cases in recorded in Border Collies over the last 15 years or so.

The short, dense, double coats of breeds like GSDs and Labs shed 360 days a year, one hair at a time and it works it's way into everything. Nothing will stop the dog shedding. The only thing that will help to reduce the amount of hair shed in the house is to wash and dry the dog regularly with a good force dryer. Either pay a groomer to hydrobath and dry the dog at least every 4-6 weeks or buy a good dryer and do it yourself. A good force dog dryer will remove large quantities of hair in one go so the quantity shed in the house is less.

Is freezing safe in this case?( I keep pet meat in the bottom drawer of the freezer. Human food starts 2 drawers above) I'm not certain if freezing completely kills hydatids or not. Personally I wouldn't risk it. Hydatid is deadly to humans and not something to take lightly. My Dad, grandad, and several uncles were all butchers or meat inspectors. None of them would have roo meat in the same fridge as food for humans. I worked for a pet warehouse some years ago that sold roo and other pet meats and still went and bought human grade meat for my dogs from a butcher.

I have already stated on here that I think it is totally wrong for any dog to be allowed to approach a strange dog, on or off lead, without the owners permission but how anyone can think it is alright for their big boisterous dog to play with a tiny one is absolutely beyond me. I have a 25kg Border Collie, entire male that loves all dogs. He has a particular fascination with Pom babies and whines, wanting to say hello when he sees them at shows. He is an incredibly gentle dog but I would not let him interact with a Pom baby at ground level. One gentle swat of his paw could easily break a tiny puppy like that. We always make him sit while the owner holds the puppy up so he can sniff and say a gentle hello with no risk of broken bones. I let Border Collie babies jump all over him but they are a lot more sturdy than toy breeds. With my new JS baby he got to meet lots of BCs including mine but in those first couple of months I could not let him play with them offlead because they were just too rough for such a small puppy. He got swatted too hard by a couple in play even on lead and as much as he was game to play with them I couldn't risk it. Little dogs are easily broken.

No they don't get wormed but they are a link in the chain of hydatid tapeworm and a real risk for it to both dogs therefore humans. If your dog gets hydatid tapeworm it won't harm the dog but could kill you if they pass it on. Roos are killed and cleaned in the field, not in an abattoir with meat inspectors. If there are hydatid cysts in the liver you may never know and tiny cysts can still be in the meat. Human consumption roo is closely inspected to try to reduce the risk but pet meat isn't. If you are using pet grade roo make sure your dogs are wormed with Droncit at least every 3 months and keep the meat in a separate fridge to your own food.

The bitch's dam is granddam to the dog as well. That makes the mating aunt to nephew on the bitch side and half brother sister on the other side.

Cartrophan, green lipped mussel extract and especially acupuncture, can all make a huge difference to an oldie with arthritis.

IMO that is too close. I think any half brother sister is too close but if they share a sire and the dams are complete outcrosses it can work. With the dams that close, I would advise against it. These two are actually three quarter brother sister. You should never inbreed more than one dog at a time and here you would be inbreeding to the sire and the bitches dam. Inbred matings like that may not produce a problem in the resulting litter but can cause problems down the line for the breed by narrowing the gene pool and increasing the percentage of dogs carrying a faulty gene.

The monthly heartworm meds cover any immature heartworm picked up in the previous 4-6 weeks. Check with the vet but I think once you go over about 6 weeks, the dog needs to be tested before starting on the medication. If mature worms die in the heart it can kill the dog.

I know someone with a Hyundai Imax diesel that claims it is the roomiest and most economical vehicle he has ever owned. He has it for kids and sports gear but it looks perfect for a dog car as well.

I don't understand why people have so much trouble finding puppies from good breeders. I have found puppies for friends and work colleagues from several breeds over the years. I ask around for the best people to contact in each breed through the showring grapevine. Then I call first, explain my credentials and who I am looking for a puppy for. Once I find some likely contacts I get the potential owners to call and talk to the breeders themselves. The only issue I have ever had was trying to find a Cocker Spaniel about 10 years ago when none of the prominent breeders where doing clinical eye tests for PRA. We had to compromise there because I could not find one breeder that did routine eye tests on their breeding stock but the buyer ended up with a wonderful puppy that they were thrilled with. Giving anyone a guarantee that they will get a puppy from a particular litter is difficult in some breeds, even though they might be great buyers. With Border Collies, the best breeders never allocate puppies until at least 6 weeks because the temperaments and personalities vary so much and matching the puppy to the right buyer is vital. This means you can have 10 people on the waiting list and not one suitable home for a particular puppy. This has happened to me with a particularly active puppy that I knew none of the buyers on my list would be able to live with so I kept her until the right home came along. Many of the BC breeders share pet buyers though. If we cannot fill an order we refer the buyer onto another litter from another breeder we know and trust so the pet buyers usually end up with a suitable puppy even if it isn't from the original breeder. I know it happens in some other breeds as well but it seems not in many.

I am not entirely clear on the lingo... can you explain what you mean by that? I am interpreting it as your pet pups that go on a limited register cost less than the ones on full mains register? Is that due to different fees or something? That is different from selling without papers completely isn't it? In most states now breeders must supply the registration papers with a puppy. It is against the regulations to sell a puppy without papers. If you don't get papers you have no guarantee that the puppy is even pure bred. It could be anything and you have no comeback. There are two different types of ANKC registration papers. Main register are for puppies that will be shown and/or bred from. Limit Register is for pets that will most likely be desexed. The puppies all cost the same to raise and the limit registration is only marginally cheaper for the breeder so most breeds go for the same price, regardless of register. BUT, if the breeder has imported breeding stock at great cost then they usually charge more for main registered puppies because they are in effect selling the imported bloodline that someone else can then breed with. It is a way of recouping a little of their costs and why should other breeders have the benefit of the imported lines for no more than is being charged for puppies from locally bred dogs? Pet buyers are just buying one dog not a bloodline to continue with so get charged less.

The Calendula Tea Erny uses does not stain but the Blooms brand one does. Erny sent me some of hers to try after I died my boy's white markings, yellow with the Blooms brand.

Dancinbcs...can you elaborate on the wood shavings please (ie. where do you purchase, is there a specific type of shaving etc)? Any pics of it in use? The bagged shavings that are sold for horse stables are good and cheap if you can find them. Some of the Petbarn stores also have them in small bags and large bales to use as animal bedding. You need shavings, not sawdust. I cover the concrete run with about 4" of shavings, removing wet and soiled patches with a pooper scooper as they occur. Once a week I sweep it all up onto a tarp and use it as garden mulch, disinfect the concrete and put down a new lot. The puppies and your clothes do get covered in it but it brushes out. Still much less work than cleaning up newpaper. The puppies stay clean, dry and sweet smelling and the flies hate it.

I usually don't move puppies out until 3 weeks but when they go outside they have a shed with bedding and a run lined with wood shavings that is completely renewed each week. The wood shavings repel the flies as well as making it easy to pick up wet and soiled patches. The puppies also never get poo on them because the shavings coat the poo so it isn't messy.

All my friends, including those from the North Shore trek out to Gary and Neil Barnsley at Greendale. I have been going to them for about 25 years now.

The dogs most likely to get rehomed from a breeder are those that do not get along with the pack. If you have 6 dogs you can run together and then one that causes trouble, that will be the one to go. These dogs can be perfectly happy in as lone dogs but make running multiple dogs difficult and they are less likely to be the temperament the breeder wants to perpetuate to "better the breed". If they are really aggressive they will be pts but if they just prefer to be loners, it is better to rehome them to a single dog situation so everyone is happy. Once a dog has become a fighter, even if it is only with one particular dog, it should never be rehomed with another adult dog. Other times breeders get adult dogs back because they do not get on with the owners other dogs, are reactive with small children, chase smaller animals/birds, or whatever. They then need to find them a new home where the problem will not be an issue. Many breeders are single with no kids so it is irresponsible to rehome a dog not raised with children to a home with children. They may be socialised to meet kids in public but you have no idea how they would react to living with them if they never have before. I have a bomb proof dog that is used in schools for the pet ed program but I have no idea how he would react to living with toddlers. There is a big difference between small children patting a dog in a controlled situation and hitting the dog over the head with their toys, hugging, climbing over the dog, etc. Finally I have no idea why a breeder would rehome through a rescue group unless they run it. Most breeders rehome their dogs directly, when and if the right home for each dog comes along. I have never heard of them using rescue to rehome dogs.