dancinbcs

Boxers are one of the more cancer prone breeds but there is no way to screen parents in any breed for that. They do age fairly fast and Boxers over 10 are the exception rather than the rule. Many succumb to cancer before that, so I wouldn't say they are a particularly healthy breed but there a not a lot of conditions in them you can test for. White boxers are especially prone to cancer and are also very likely to be deaf and get skin cancer, so white are best avoided. The ANKC does not allow for white Boxers to be registered on any register. I do agree that a female Boxer would probably be the best option for a companion for their existing dog. If he is still full of life a puppy would be fine but if he is slowing down a bit a young adult, failed showdog might be a better option.

How? Do breeders not check every square inch of new born puppies? Count fingers & toes? check under tail ? make sure legs are glued on tight? check suction pressure in mouth , and amount of insulation around the inner workings? :) Mainly new breeders that do not even realise that rear dew claws exist, that they need to look for them or sometimes they don't realise that 5 toes on the back is not normal. If they are tucked in on a coated breed you need to look for them. Sometimes there is only one puppy in a litter with one back dew claw, so it can be overlooked. Also I have a breed that tends to whelp very naturally with minimal interference and the bitches have a very strong maternal instinct, preferring that their babies are not disturbed. If all goes well you just sit back and watch and take notes until they are finished. So we often just quickly check sex and markings as they are born and weigh them by putting the scales in the whelping box when we get a chance. If you lift a puppy out of the box the mum will dive out after it and try to grab it back. Most breeders get a post whelping vet check but some don't bother so the babies are only handled for essential checks and weigh ins until they are several days old and the mum has relaxed a bit.

Does he still bark if he is in an adjoining run or crate. Several of my boys have only been happy if they can make sure no other dog can get to the girl so I let them be next to them but not actually in with them. They actually prefer the girl to locked up and then they lie across the gate to protect her.

I would still confront the parents and if that gets you nowhere report it to the police that the child is trespassing and stealing from you and that you have warned the parents to keep the child out of your yard. Then if anything does happen it will be on record that you tried to stop the child entering your property. Either that or get an electric fence. I used to have kids try to jump the back fence after balls and at the time I had dogs that would likely bite anyone that came over the fence. I went round and fronted the parents and warned them that if they let their kids climb the fence and they got bitten it would be their fault. They didn't say much but the kids never did it again.

I would just let the breeder know that she missed them and that you will have them removed when he is desexed. Maybe she has never had them before but the vet should have noticed them at the after whelping check. In my experience they are a dominant trait so one parent had be born with them for the puppies to have them. Maybe she used an outside stud dog this time but she needs to know to look for rear dew claws in every litter. All breeds are born with front dew claws and most have some with back dew claws. In some breeds they are all removed and in others just the back ones are removed, except for those few breeds that require them in the breed standard. I have known of the odd breeder to miss the back ones but it is pretty rare because it is something most breeders check for as routine when puppies are born.

The breeder should have removed them at 3 days. There are only a few breeds like Briards and Pyrenean Mountain Dogs that require them. Unless the breed standard mentions them they should be removed in all other breeds. Definitely get them taken off when he is desexed.

Most breeders I know go over the puppies every week until a final decision is made at 8 weeks on which, if any, are as good or better in structure, type, temperament and movement than the parents. Any that aren't, are definitely put on limit register. If they aren't good enough for us to breed from then they aren't good enough for anyone else to breed from. Those that make the grade are main registered and kept or placed in show homes. It usually happens that there are more show potential puppies than show homes so some inevitably end up being sold as pets, in which case they go on limit as well. Unfortunately since the ANKC decided to make the cosmetic point of colour the ONLY disqualifying fault from main registration in our breed we also have to limit register the non-standard colours, no matter how good they are.

As the others have said it depends on the reason. A mispresented puppy that gets stuck is not the bitches fault, just bad luck. No puppy can be born coming sideways. In breeds that normally have at least 4 in a litter a singleton nearly always requires a caesar because there are not enough puppies to trigger the hormones to send them into labour. A singleton can be caused by many things usually not the fault of the bitch. Inertia is another matter though and can be hereditary. With an outstanding bitch I would try twice but no more. Inertia can also be caused by leaving a bitch too long between litters. Nature designed them to have a litter a year and if you leave 3 or 4 years between litters, as we often do, They often run out of steam part way through the whelping. My first bitch spat out 6 puppies in 40 minutes with her first litter. The second litter 4 years later she had 2-3 hours between puppies, got three out, the 4th one was dead and got stuck. We got two more live ones out by caesar. Her daughters whelped fine.

I read a further report that said the guy who was attacked simply walked past and the dog lunged at his face. He also has several puncture wounds besides the broken nose so the dog definitely bit him.

Taking a mature dog overseas for a year or two is fine but if you are going to be there for several years you may run into the problem of having a dog too old to bring back and then you are stuck there if you are not prepared to put the dog down. So with a GSD if the stay is only 2 years I would say take the dog but if it is likely to be 3-5 years, timing the return could be difficult. Some friends of mine took a 7 year old I bred to Newfoundland for a year and she was fine despite the very long flights. They desperately wanted to take the jobs and had a reliable family member here who was happy to mind the dog but they didn't want to leave her even for a year. They rang me to see what I thought and were very relieved when I gave them my blessing to take her with them. They would not have taken the jobs if they couldn't have taken the dog. Another friend took several dogs to Japan including two twelve year olds for a two year commitment figuring the two oldies would be gone when she was due to come home. Just to spite her they lived two more years and she had to keep extending her contract until they passed away. The extra two years meant her next oldest was then about 13 when she brought the others home.

Ok this proves the vet has no idea about food. Dry is definitely not better for the teeth than bones but you have to feed bones, not just barf patties. Definitely look for another vet. Maybe out your area on here and someone may recommend a vet around there. There is no need to desex a dog with an undescended testicle until at least 12 months. I have heard that massaging them down is supposed to work in some breeds and some dogs don't have them drop until up to 6 months but it is not normal. The testicles should be down by 6 weeks, 8 at the latest. the number that come down after this is very small. If you breed on from dogs with late descending testicles you perpetuate the problem.

Totally agree with this. Borders often don't like other breeds and do not tolerate any dog staring at them. Other breeds don't understand that to a Border, staring is is a threat. They are very particular about who they play with and some do not like to interact with strange dogs at all, preferring their owners to other dogs. I find a lot of the bitches tend to hate strange dogs getting in their face. This is a breed bred to be VERY attached to it's owner so ignoring other dogs is pretty normal when they are with their owner and they don't take kindly to other dogs butting into their personal space. Stop forcing this dog to interact with others and instead concentrate on getting her to be with you and ignore the other dogs. Border Collies are often worked several at a time on sheep and they would be pretty useless if they wanted to play together instead of working.

Definitely ask the breeder for exact instructions on feeding. They will know what works with their dogs. The puppy does sound underweight and the amount you are feeding is only about half what a 10 week old Border Collie would eat so nowhere near enough food. Some vets only believe in commercial food but the vet was probably pretty harsh because the puppy is underweight. If you want to try a dry food again then I recommend Black Hawk. My current JS puppy is a light eater and wouldn't eat several dry foods but loves the Black Hawk. He is on partly raw with chicken wings or necks, etc and raw veges but I want him to eat dry as well as he may have to stay with his breeder sometimes for shows. I feed raw mainly raw, she feeds mainly dry.

Lots of things can cause an enlarged spleen in humans so I suppose it applies to dogs as well. However the high rate of tumours on the spleen in dogs would make me check that out first. If he has a tumour and they can get the spleen out without the tumour rupturing the prognosis is very good. It shouldn't be the last thing looked for because it is an emergency and every day counts if it is a tumour. If there is no tumour, then look for other causes of the enlarged spleen.

Am I the only one stunned that someone sold the OP an entire male Neo when he had another entire male large breed dog? Some breeds can live with other entire males but not many and definitely not serious guard breeds. Unfortunately your poor Lab has gone from a friendly dog to a fighter and that will probably never be undone. I would not have desexed both as it puts them on an equal footing again. If you are determined to keep the Neo despite him biting you badly I think I would try to rehome the Lab for his own safety and give him a chance at a somewhat normal life but he will probably never be good with other dogs again.

Where did the puppy come from and what has he been wormed with? If he hasn't been wormed with Drontal use that now. Puppy worming solutions are pretty useless and the wormers in monthly heartworm tablets sometimes do not work on all worms. This puppy could have hookworm and it can be difficlt to diagnose and treat. It also gets in the soil and can be picked up by humans or dogs through the soles of the feet.

I have never heard of LP in Kelpies but it definitely occurs in Aust Cattle Dogs. It can occur in any dog following injury but the hereditary type is usually confined to toy/small breeds or large breeds with straighter stifles than average. The fact that this puppy had elbow problems as well could be an indication that there is a problem with all the joints due to incorrect nutrition in the early weeks. The very worse case of hip and elbow displasia I havever heard of was in a Newfie crossbred that was rescued at 4 months from neglect. His collar was embedded into his neck as he grew. By 6 months he couldn't walk. He was put down and the autopsy revealed all deformed joints most likely due to incorrect diet. The vets had never seen anything like it before.

Except for litter mates raised together, Border Collies bond to the owner much more than to each other. Not sure what would happen with a gundog. Two Borders will always get on better than a Border with another breed too. They recognise their own breed and seem to prefer their company. Most Borders raised with cats, do not chase them unless the cat wants to be chased. If they stand their ground the dog the dog will back off. If you get another puppy just get the activity level you want again and concentrate on getting the puppy to spend some time with the cats, without the older dog being there.

I would expect a Bullmastiff to be around 10 kg at 8 weeks considering our Border Collies are 5-8kgs at 8 weeks. As the others have pointed out, you should not have been sold a puppy under 8 weeks.

X-rays should only be in the last week, never before and if your vet has a good ultrasound you don't need and x-ray at all. X-rays are just as dangerous in pregnant dogs as they are in pregnant people. Definitely get the ear checked asap. Ear infections are more often treated with drops or ointment than oral antibiotics anyway. BTW every breeder I know gets ultrasounds late during and sometimes late in the pregnancy as well and I do not know of any that picked up any nasties at the vets.

Missing from the St Johns Rd area of Campbelltown since this morning. Black and white classically marked, Border Collie bitch, red collar, answers to Tyra. Good news. Tyra has been found safe and well.

We have rarely ever had any food stolen by dogs or cats when we had them and the few times it has happened the food was literally visible over the edge. Our fault not theirs. The kitchen table and benches are simply out of bounds and they know they are not allowed to put a paw on them. The dogs will stand on their back legs to see what is there and lick the table edge but it is hard to pinch stuff if you cannot put a paw against it. The first time any of them ever made any attempt to jump up to put paws on a bench or table I would slam my hand down on it very loudly and roar at them. They soon get the message that anything up there is not theirs. I do not leave anything tempting near the edge and make sure I push chairs in around the table but the no paws on the table or bench rule has always worked for us. I cannot ever remember any dog or cat ever actually jumping onto a kitchen table or bench.

What is the problem with them starting late? Anything from 8 - 18 months is considered normal in my breed and most of us prefer them later with seasons further apart because we usually don't breed them until 2-3 years at the earliest. Quite a few don't have their first litter until 5 or even 6 years. They lose fertility with every season so far better to have a bitch having her second season at 2 years than one having her 5th at 22 months like one we bought in. She started at 6 months and then came in every 4 months. She had many more problems like silent seasons, slow whelping, etc than any of the late starters I know of. Luckilly her daughters where a bit later at 8-9 months. We bred from 3 of them with one having normal seasons and normal whelping, one having 5 to 7 month seasons and normal whelping and the other difficult to get in whelp, bad whelper, etc. The last one was the best dog so her progeny have continued the line and each generation has been more normal with less problems.

Sounds like she still has more to go. For a large litter 12 hours or more can be normal but she shouldn't go more that 2 hours between puppies. A gap of more than 2 hours indicates a vet check is needed. There shouldn't be any heavy bleeding with a whelping. There is a little blood stained discharge and the greeny black from the afterbirths bit no blood. If she is bleeding she needs to see a vet. The only one of mine that bled had to have Vit K injections to stop the bleeding.