dancinbcs

The fees are all on the AQIS site including an estimated total cost. 2 dogs at eastern Creek would be $2400. Then just get some quotes for the transport before making a decision.

AQIS fees The quarantine from the US is 30 days so the cost would be about $2400 for the two dogs combined for quaratine plus flight costs both ways.

I will also add that you can breed flashy x flashy and get perfectly fine puppies, and then breed non flashy to non flashy and still get mismarks. I have a 6wk old litter and bred a non flashy to moderate flashy. I got a mismark - how did that happen - don't know, don't really care... the pup is healthy and make a great pet... what is important is that you are breeding for the betterment and the health of the breed. Interpret that how you will :) Look at the link I posted. Markings in Boxers are completely different to other breeds like Aussies and Borders. With Boxers the markings are predictable, with the others they aren't but we don't get all whites either.

White markings genetics This website has a pretty good explanation of why white Boxers occur. The genetics is different to other breeds with white markings so any reference to what happens in other breeds is quite irrelevant. I really would be surprised if this is a big problem among registered breeders here. Looking through the top 20 or so dogs on the Boxer Pointscore here on DOL there are only 2 dogs that would be described as flashy. If the majority are not flashy then there is no need to do flashy to flashy matings. I think the situation is different in the US where flashy tends to be more common. More of a problem is the unregistered BYBs that think it is a good idea to breed white boxers and promote them as something desirable. The bottom line is they should never be born.

One of the disadvantages of desexed dogs is that the coats shed a lot slower and tend to matt easier than they do with entire dogs. The entire ones tend to blow the whole coat in a matter of days to a couple of weeks at most and it is easily blown out with a good dryer. Once desexed they shed for weeks on end and the texture is different so it tangles rather than just falling straight out.

My male Border Collies and desexed females have always shed twice a year in November and March/April. I never had a dog in full coat the for the Specialties and Royal at Easter and many of the breed are the same. They grow a summer coat and a winter coat, dropping each one to grow the other. The entire females shed twice a year by their seasons.

I never mentioned the marking behaviour because to me that is normal. Entire dogs and bitches all do it and you just have to teach them when they can and cannot mark. When they are marking you need to let them go several times, not just once before you ask for attention. My dogs get to sniff and mark on walks as much as they want but if we are training or showing they pay attention to me. A simple watch command is one way to distract them from sniffing and a harsh "aahhh" sound combined with pulling them off balance, if they look interested in something they are not allowed to mark, usually works. Eventually just the sound is enough to stop them.

Feed one meal of dry not soaked food and see if they prefer that. Next meal just chicken mince or whole wings depending on the breed. By 6 weeks my litters were always over mush and wanted real food to chew on. Balance the diet over the day, not at every meal. Oh, and definitely space the meals a lot more.

I agree with this. He needs to be pulled into line now, regardless of if he is entire or not. All my entire Borders have always eaten together with no issues, even when feeding raw bones or having visiting dogs. Even entire males that I wouldn't leave unattented together always had dinner together. The rule in this house is that I own and control the food and everyone can mind their manners, eat from their own bowl, stick to their own bone and woe betide anyone that growls. If you give food chews, either crate them or remove the chews if they can't be nice and chew in company. Definitely don't neuter and vaccinate at the same time. Vaccinations should not be given if the dog is stressed at all. If possible wait until his growth plates are closed to desex because he is going to be a performance dog but if you really feel he is getting to be too much with the hormones do it now.

My puppies alway left being almost housetrained, used to people, car rides, crates, etc. I start lead training at 5 weeks and by 8 weeks they know the meaning of watch, heel, come, stand, sit, drop and and just for fun "shake hands". They have also learnt not to bite people on the legs, feet or hands before they leave me. So while Ian Dunbar does take things a little to the extreme their are breeders out there that start early training and socialisation. I never raised a litter unless I could save up holidays and be home full time for the last few weeks with them because it is a very time consuming. The benefit is happy puppies that don't come back because they are a nuisance. If more breeders bothered with these basics there wouldn't constantly be people on here asking for advice on house training, biting hands,car sickness and all the other problems that are repeated over and over in the Puppy thread.

I'd suggest a Collie Rough. Laid back but trainable, not really into chasing. Easy groom long coat. Good with kids. Of the others suggested the Keeshond would probably be the best fit. And I totally disagree with the idea that any dog will chase cats. I and many of my friends have had cats with Border Collies and nearly all are fine with resident cats. They will chase stray cats but not the ones they live with.

I would still ultrasound even late in the pregnancy to check size and approx numbers. Always good to know if you have one huge puppy or several normal ones. I have seen some pretty convincing phantoms too with most of the signs mentioned even going into pre-labour and one that looked like she was having a huge litter and only had one normal sized puppy.

The fact that the nose is pigmenting early is a good sign that the dog will have more pigment and with a puppy like that many would wait until the hearing could be tested. Ultimately the decision lies with the breeder the same as the decision to euthanise oops crossbreds or some of a very large litter in breeds that are hard to sell. These are some of the tough decisions breeders have to make depending on how likely the puppies are to get good homes, not just any homes.

The white in breeds that are all white normally is actually an extreme dilution of the hair colour of an otherwise genetically yellow/cream dog. The skin pigment is not affected so their are no health problems associated with the white coat. In breeds with white markings (known as Irish spotting) on a solid colour, the all white is caused by an excess of the white markings that occur on unpigmented skin. This is why breed standards like the Border Collie one state that "white must not predominate". A dog with white markings over the ears are more likely to be deaf and any unpigmented skin is more likely to get skin cancer so selling dogs that are extremely lacking in skin pigment to me is very irresponsible, especially in short coated breeds.

Registered breeders must register all puppies in a litter but white Boxers are the only ones of any breed that cannot be registered on main or limit register. So to comply with the rules the breeders don't have much choice. If they elect to raise the puppies they have to give them away because they are not allowed to sell unregistered puppies. All white dogs in any breed that is not supposed to be white, have a much higher risk of deafness and other health issues, especially skin cancer. Many breeders would prefer to put down newborn puppies than raise them to 6-8 weeks, find out they are deaf and have to put them down then, once they are attached to them. Reputable breeders do not sell puppies that they know are affected with a major health problem. If you have ever seen a young all white dog covered in skin cancer you would never contemplate selling anyone an all white dog in a breed where the white is influenced by skin pigment.

You are a bloody legend, this is very helpful, thank you very much! I am actually finding my very heavily coated, Jap Spitz as easy to groom as all the Border Collies I have had but it takes less time because he is smaller. A lot depends on coat quality and a Pom has a finer coat than a JS but the principal is the same with any long Spitz coat. Line brushing once or twice a week keeps the coat in perfect order. Never brush over the top of the coat, it has to be in layers from the skin out. How often it needs to be done depends on how the coat feels. If you feel it starting to clump together a bit it is time to brush. If the hairs are clearly separate to the skin you can leave it a few more days. The pants need a lot more brushing than the rest of the dog. The undercoat is like cotton wool so do not expect to ever get a fine comb through it. Always stick the a very wide toothed comb and only after brushing first.

For a Spitz coat or any long double coat, you need a soft slicker brush, a good quality bristle and nylon brush and a very wide toothed comb (Collie comb). Most good show dog shampoos like Plush Puppy are fine and get an anti tangle conditioner if the coat tangles. Aloveen would not be my choice for a dog without skin problems because it tends to make the coat heavy. Always line brush before bathing. If the dog isn't dropping coat the bristle/nylon brush is best and expect to pay anything from $20-$150 for a good brush. The more you pay the longer it should last. My first Mason Pearson brush is still going strong after grooming show dogs for 27 years so well worth the money. If the coat is shedding use the slicker. Work from the the back foot up and forward each side, parting the coat and brushing from the skin in layers about a cm wide until the whole dog is done. Then run the collie comb through lightly at right angles to the dog, to check for any tangles. If you find any brush them out from the tip of the hair back to the body. When bathing lather the dog and squeeze the shanpoo through, do not rub. Rinse and use the conditioner and comb it through with the collie comb before rinsing. Towel dry without too much rubbing and them blow dry in layers using the brush to lift the coat. Repeat the line brushing.

Declared Restricted Breed dogs also must have the 'Warning, Dangerous Dog' sign. Unregistered dogs of any breed owned by morons are a problem. Ok, didn't realise that. Most of the dogs in my district must be unregistered then because I have never seen one of the signs but have seen plenty of red nose PBs that I assume are not Amstaffs due to the colour. Pure bred SBTs are so rare around here that I really noticed when I saw one being walked recently.

In NSW, premises that house a declared dangerous dog do have to display a sign to that effect so why would the info need to printed anywhere. It doesn't apply to restricted breeds though and if they are kept under the required conditions it shouldn't be necessary. The biggest problem is all the restricted breeds that are not registered and owned by morons.

In some dogs the jaws grow at different rates, so a perfect bite at 8 weeks can be 1cm over at 3-4 months as the top jaw grows first, then the bottom jaw catches up by about 6-7 months. I have seen it happen in quite a few dogs. Get your brother to call the breeder and ask if this tends to happen with their line. If it does it is probably nothing to worrry about. In a lot of breeds the mouth cannot be guaranteed. Quite a few show dogs of various breeds, run on by breeders, end up in pet homes because the bites go off as they grow. A lot depends on the breed and the lines so check with the breeder if it may or may not be a problem.

This is the usual post surgery regime and it works. The dogs I have known to have the surgery were only about 5-6 months old and they led normal lives after that. Early detection is important so any 3-6 month old med-large puppy with a limp lasting more than a week should be investigated.

Quite a few people show several different breeds but I cannot think of anyone that has been successful with seriously breeding more than 2-3 breeds at the same time. I few that have the money to do it, have two main breeds with an occasional litter from a third and that seems to work. Of course some people change the breeds they have throughout a lifetime and may end up being successful with 5 or 6 breeds but just not all at the same time.

Because they shouldn't. It is totally unacceptable behaviour and a sign of a very bad temperament. Lots of adults will put a puppy in it's place by holding it down by the throat with a lot of noise if the puppy is being obnoxious but any adult that launches an unprovoked attack on a puppy that does damage is totally in the wrong. I have seen it happen at shows and just hope these dogs are never bred from.

Most of my BCs had double canines for a few weeks and my new JS had them for a month so I find it rare for the baby canines to fall out before the adult one start to emerge and have never had a bad bite. My vet recommends retained teeth be removed at exactly 6 months if they aren't out by then. My JS lost his second last one at 6 months to the day and the last one 2 days later so just made it without having to have them pulled.I do make a point of wriggling the teeth every day and playing lots of tug to help them along. Check with the breeder what the breed and lines are usually like before making any decision.

I didn't realise the breed had died out in Aust. I remember them being shown in the late 80s and early 90s. They were probably pretty hard to sell as pets. Big shaggy dogs with very oily coats, so not a dog for indoors. They also had webbed feet which was quite fascinating.