dancinbcs

Sounds like a perfectly normal dog to me.

In NSW you have to all three.

I would recommend conditoner on long coats for pet dogs and if the coat tends to tangle, run a wide toothed comb through the coat with the contioner on, before you rinse it out. The same as you do with human hair. It makes a huge difference to removing tangles easily especially in double coats on desexed dogs that are 10 times harder to groom than those on entire dogs. You just need to match the shampoo and conditioner to the correct coat type. A double coat is very different to the fine single coat of a Lowchen or even an Afghan. With show dogs it is very different. I never use conditioner on a BC or JS before a show because it softens the coat too much but do use it for in between show baths if they are having a break from showing. Shi Tzus get bathed without conditioner before a show and immediately bathed again and conditoned after the show to preserve the coat. So it all depends on breed and coat type. Edited to add that long coats that tangle should never be rubbed with a towel, rather squeezed through and always dried with a dryer unless the weather is very hot. Using a proper dog dryer will greatly reduce grooming time because they blow out all the loose hair.

That video is awful. He pulled the dog's front legs forward when they should always be placed well under the dog with the elbow under the withers. No wonder so many dogs are so badly stacked if people are watching that advice. The main trick is too never let go of the head. Hold the head with the collar up high under the jaw with your right hand and do not move that hand until the dog is finished stacking. Either slightly lift the front clear of the ground by placing the left arm over the dog with the hand on the ribs behind the elbow to let the front legs fall directly under the dog or place each front leg by the elbow so the leg is well under the dog. Then run your left hand down the back to the show side back hock and place that leg, repeat for the other back leg. You can hold the collar up then with both hands or swap hands so you are holding the collar with the left hand and bait with the right. With a puppy that sits, hold the head with the right hand and keep the left hand on the near side stifle so it cannot possibly sit. Always move the front legs by the elbows and back legs by the hocks and try to run your hand down to them rather than just grabbing where you want to move. And never ever lift the dog under the belly or between the back legs.

Dump them in rescue or put them down.

It isn't unusual for BCs to still be siring litters at 12-14. A lot depends on the lifespan of the breed. Many giant breeds wouldn't even make it to that age and are considered old at 8, so it is all relative. At the other end of the scale the most precocious breed I have heard of are Belgians and I know of two cases where 4 month old puppies have mated with their mothers. Both bitches were given mismating injections so I don't know if they were fertile but most breeds are fertile by 6-7 months.

whether or not there is a contract could be immaterial. Even for a pet dog, she has sold "goods" that are not fit for purpose. In they eyes of consumer law, dogs are the same as whitegoods. But they would still need a receipt or some proof of purchase... I have a gut feeling that the OP doesn't have one....I hope I am wrong Maybe the OP could enquire with their state body of ANKC to see what has been submitted if at all by the breeder. unless they paid a wad of cash they'd have an internet banking transfer statement or similar A lot of puppies are paid for in cash because breeders are not businesses. If you don't get the papers you need a receipt stating exactly what papers will be supplied but so many buyers seem to overlook this point. If they bought anything else for the same amount they would make sure they got a receipt. Without papers or a receipt you have no proof where the dog came from.

Glad to hear he is on the improve for the moment and fingers crossed he doesn't have TNS but best to find out now.

Custom made aluminium might be a better option. OKS

So sorry to hear this dancinbcs Sounds like there was nothing you could have done. That's what scared me as it seems sometimes these things can have little to no symptoms at all, very scary. Yes, they can be very stoic. She is the second dog that I have lost suddenly to cancer with seemingly no obvious symptoms until the last week. The other one was prostate cancer that had spread all through the pelvic bones. In both dogs they estimated the cancer had been there 6-12 months but they appeared happy, healthy, normal dogs. Now if anything seems "odd" I get it checked and ask for an ultrasound or x-ray as appropriate. My other cancer dog that had a mast cell tumour, also had no symptoms other than a lump that looked like it was from a grass seed. Luckily we took that off straight away but the prognosis was still only a few months. I got him onto Chinese Medicine and he lived another 3 healthy years until he was an old dog.

The thing is he could have both. Puppies with TNS are only detected when they get an infection and that could be any sort of infection, including neosporosis. The vets can sometimes treat whatever infection is present at the time but if TNS is present as well, the puppy will eventually die from an infection it cannot fight, no matter how it is treated. TNS also varies in intensity with some puppies having a little immunity and others none. Hopefully it is a one off infection but the odds are very much against it. Let us know how you get on with the test and if you can rule that out then the puppy has a chance of recovery.

Don't want to panic you further but the only sign my girl had of extensive lung cancer was an intermittant cough. A couple of odd coughs every few days. By the time she actually got sick, she only had a week.

Sydney Uni are going to be asking for blood samples like Prof Wilton did, not the mouth swabs. There are other possible illnesses it could be but I would be checking for TNS first because it is the most likely in a Border Collie from untested parents and the easiest and cheapest to test for. You don't want to spend a fortune testing for lots of other conditions only to find out it was TNS all along. When the test first became available about 7 years ago we found that about 20% of the breed carried the gene for TNS so breeding untested animals is a real gamble.

Please do, that sounds RIDICULOUSLY cute, and would also be handy as an example of how to make a coat for puppies :) Here you go :D Day old lamb with sleeve jacket. Note this is a female lamb. If it were male I would cut it away further underneath. Another great idea and would work for small short coated dogs as well. I love the tracksuit material because it is soft, warm and doesn't fray so all you need to make these coats is a pair of scissors.

Thanks for the advice. We will definitely talk to vet about this and get them to contact the University. We live in a smaller town about 3 hours from Sydney so a trip down there is a big trip for us. And with 4 kids, weekend sports and limited resources, very difficult to do. Unfortunately (and in hindsight, regrettably) we didn't do enough research on buying a pure bred puppy. This is the first time we have "purchased" a PB dog, with previous pups bought from the RSPCA or Council pounds. We aren't looking at showing or breeding but just wanted a pet to love and spoil and didn't even contemplate anything like this occurring. Whilst the Breeder is very sympathetic, and they did talk to their own vet about this, they have put it down to just bad luck as the puppy was fine there. Certainly, if we ever decide on doing this again, we will go through a reputable and registered breeder. Can I ask what constitutes a registered BC puppy? Should they all be registered or only if from a registered breeder? The puppy doesn't need to come to Sydney to be DNA tested, you just send a blood sample. If your puppy does have TNS then there is a big chance that another one or two puppies from the litter will also have it but may not show it for another month or two. Sometimes there is is only one in a litter, sometimes 3 or 4, but even one affected puppy means both parents carry the defective gene and must never be bred together again. TNS - Trapped Neutrophil Syndrome, is when the bone marrow makes neutrophils for the immune system but is unable to release them into the bloodstream. This makes the puppy prone to any infection that comes along and the symptoms vary depending on the infection acquired. TNS carriers are found in all Border Collie lines all over the world. A registered puppy comes from a breeder who is registered with the ANKC and their state body, which in NSW is Dogs NSW. The breeder will have a breeder's prefix and all of their puppies will also be registered and come with an ANKC registered pedigree that guarantees that they are purebred and shows their ancestry as well as with microchip and vaccination certificates. A "purebred" dog without papers is actually a lot riskier than a mutt because you have no idea of how the dog has been bred and no health history. All ANKC breeders have to comply with a code of ethics and while DNA health testing is not mandatory, most breeders do it for the three conditions in Border Collies. The more reputable breeders also hip and elbow score breeding stock as well and some do additional hearing and eye testing. Once a simple DNA test is available to make it possible to never breed a dog with a particular disease again, all breeders have a legal obligation to use that test to ensure they are not selling affected puppies. In Vic it is actually a state law for anyone breeding dogs, registered or not, to not sell a puppy affected with a preventable condition. If you look through the puppy listings here on DOL you will see that most mention the DNA test results for the parents of the litters for all three conditions - CL, TNS and CEA. Even those churning out coloured puppies just for profit, not for the good of the breed, have DNA tested stock. It is fine to breed from carriers but they must be bred to a partner that is clear/normal for the conditon they carry. The problem with BYB or unregistered breeders is they are not part of the "breed community" so do not keep up with health issues affecting the breed and because they breed purely for profit, sticking their heads in the sand is more profitable.

It is highly likely that this puppy has TNS which there is now a DNA test for. It is difficult to diagnose without a DNA test but your description sounds like a classic case. Get your vet to contact the University of Sydney who are about to start up the testing again after it was moved from the UNSW. Optigen in the USA are also set up to the test at the moment. See if Sydney Uni can do the test now for you urgently, otherwise the puppy will need a bone marrow biopsy. Much cheaper and easier on the puppy to do the DNA test. If it is TNS, it is fatal with no cure, the puppy will keep getting infections and will need to be pts. All registered BC puppies should now be from DNA tested parents to ensure that they cannot be affected by this hereditary defective immune system. One parent of every litter must be DNA normal for TNS to ensure the puppies are not affected. The same applies to the other fatal condition CL and the eye problem CEA. This is sadly why buying an unregistered puppy is such a bad idea. Edited to add that a reputable breeder would have asked for the puppy to be returned immediately so they could deal with the problem with their vet and refund if necessary. Also if this does turn out to be TNS, then you might consider sueing the breeder for selling a puppy with a 100% preventable disease. Until someone does that to a BYB, they won't get the message that they need to health test like the registered breeders do.

Mine just go to their own beds and sleep but if you have multi dogs that are likely to rumble, sewing a bit of velcro on solves the problem.

Just thought with these cold nights now I would share the instructions for my instant dog coats that are soft and comfy for dogs to sleep in. Mine rarely need them unless they are drastically out of coat or have an injury but if I need one I can make it in minutes. You need a pair of track pants, old or new, that measure slightly stretched, the same around the top of the leg as your dog does around the chest behind the elbows. One pair of track pants makes 2 coats. 1. Cut the track pants in half, from the centre front to centre back so you have two separate legs. 2. Measure your dog and cut into a coat shape to fit. The outside leg seam goes along the dog's back and part of the inside leg seam is along the belly. You can leave more of it stitched for a bitch than a dog. 3. Slip over the dog's head, pull the front legs through and secure the chest with a safety pin or if you have time add a velco closure to front before putting it on the dog.

Either could be suitable but are very different breeds. The Bullmastiff is lower energy but more of a true guard dog. The RR is actually a hunting breed, so more active, needs more exercise and is not a guard dog but it's imposing size and bark would deter most intruders. I know people with both breeds and of the larger breeds they are two that I would recommend as family pets and being generally very friendly once the owner introduces then to you.

Both Advantix and Frontline Plus still work if the dog swims. Frontline doesn't seem to work much any more in the eastern states but still might be fine in the west. I would check with a local vet in the area you are going to.

i paid $3000 for the dog plus travel dna tests and hip and elbow scores. i have asked her to refund and will send the dog back and just want my $3000, at this stage it was no. i havent decided if i cn take it further or not. i am very unhappy with the hip scores but also the elbows too, she said that they were perfect. funny thats not what the x ray showed. no matter if i am breeding show stud or pets i want the best i can breed and this is not going to be with him. i know if i have had sold the dog i would be alot more concerned for the buyer and my breed (and reputation) thaks for your thoughts wish there was more people like you. Ok, it sounds like you have been ripped off on price, simply because of his colour. An expensive lesson in doing your homework before breeding dogs. Hopefully you have something in writing stating that the dog was required to be suitable to use for breeding and you may be able to return him for a refund or at least get back the difference in price for an average pet Lab, so you can onsell him as a desexed pet. At this stage he has cost you the equivalent of 2-3 future stud fees. Realistically, how many litters was he likely to sire? If you are breeding right he would sire a litter or two for you and then you would move on to the next generation with an outside dog. As for standing him at stud, the chances of anyone, other than a coloured puppy farmer using him would be slim, no matter what his health status. A dog has to offer something outstanding to the breed to really have any demand at public stud and if he isn't being shown or doing well in performance no one will be interested. In most breeds, especially the popular ones, colour should make absolutely no difference to the price. At the moment Labs, BCs and SBTs are among the breeds were people are getting ripped off for so called "rare colours" from people just breeding for colour and not quality. It pays to ask around about average price in any breed before buying any dog for any purpose. I wish you well getting at least some of your money back and placing this dog as a pet. Then seek help from Lab breeders who breed for quality not colour, in finding suitable studs to use on each of your girls to get the best quality puppies you can and forget about buying a "stud dog".

no it 12-13 all up and he is 17 all up oh ok, mis read it I mis-read it too. I wouldn't breed from him in that case. What I would like to know was why an 8 month old puppy was so expensive and what do you call expensive? As labs26 said, $1500 is about top dollar for really top quality Lab puppy and that is a lot less than many other breeds. With any puppy of any breed, not old enough to hip score, it is a gamble that you take.

If he is a purebred SBT, he was either overweight or oversize for a puppy, unless very mature. The breed standard is 13-17kgs for adult males. If you are worried that he is under weight, a vet visit would be a good idea.

Sorry but unless you got a guarantee in writing that the dog could be returned if his hips and elbows were over a certain score, then I think you are stuck with him. No one can guarantee hips and elbows, so either don't buy until they have been done or accept that it is in the lap of the gods. If you bought the dog to show then he can still be shown. If you bought him to be a "stud dog" then you would have no idea until he was mature, if he woudl suit any of your bitches anyway. He didn't score above the breed average, so even though you are disappointed, it isn't the end of the world. Breeding all 0:0 scores would greatly reduce the gene pool and lead to a decline in other desirable breed qualities. What I don't understand is why so many breeders on here buy a "stud dog"? It isn't like breeding cattle or sheep but more like horses where you choose the very best sire for each individual mating and take the bitch to that dog, wherever he is. In rare breeds it is different but in a numerically strong breed like Labs, I just don't get it. Some people buy a male first to show, to get into a breed and others keep a male they have breed to show but if you are not showing or competing in any field, why would you buy a male?

Getting hold of the papers is vital otherwise you don't even have proof who the dog is and that you are the owner. Do you at least have the microchip papers? Once you have them and have sorted it out legally, then I would name and shame the person involved. People like that give dedicated dog breeders a bad name.