dancinbcs

The right Border Collie would suit much of your description but as they vary so much in activity level, destructiveness and if they will guard or not, an adult would be a better idea. Bitches usually cope better alone than males do, they shed less hair and are on the smaller size of medium breeds. Most BCs would cope well with a half hour walk and some training a day so long as they are with you except for school hours. They are a pretty quiet breed compared to most. Some will act as guard dogs, others will welcome the burglar and hold the torch and there is no way to predict that in a puppy. I have had closely related dogs destroy nothing at all while others destroy everything they come in contact with until carefully trained to only destroy their toys.

They are supposed to have a good off switch. Work when required and chill out when they aren't but they need a lot more mental stimulation than physical exercise as adults anyway. The puppies have two speeds, flat out doing things and asleep. They never just sit around and look cute like other breeds.

There are 51 litters listed on DOL so it isn't as if they would have to wait long. They just need to visit a couple more breeders. Than again if they are too lazy to look for a good puppy they will probably be too lazy to train it. BCs are wonderful but they are a lot of work to keep their minds active.

The show bred litters from well known reputable breeders currently listed in NSW are Mahteek, Ancrum, Ingenue, Langtry, Tojess, Neecabe, Ammarin and possibly Bimbee who used to show. These should have well bred puppies from health tested parents and at least 6 of them only have small numbers of dogs. The other two I’m not certain of numbers but I doubt they would have 30 on the property.

I know dozens of Border Collie breeders and most only have 6-12 dogs at a time and breed an average 1-3 litters a year. This applies to all the main show kennels. I only ever had a maximum of 4 dogs at a time and bred just one litter every couple of years and still managed to breed good show dogs. Every breeder I know has their dogs as pets first and show dogs second and I know of no one who ever makes a profit breeding BCs. I would love to know where they went that had 30 dogs in kennels. I cannot think of any show breeder in NSW with that number of dogs. Sadly there are a lot of breeders just breeding odd colours for profit and they are the ones who tend to breed a lot of puppies. I can happily recommend any number of breeders to them but of the DOL listings I would recommend less than half that advertise on there. If you watch the puppy listings, the ones that seem to have adds on there permanently are the ones to avoid. I also think your friend may have misunderstood the breeder about how often the dogs get out of their kennels. If they are showing them they need extensive exercise to be in show condition so they would be out of the kennels every day for exercise. You are wasting your time showing an unfit BC. The breeder probably meant that the dogs only left the property to go to shows.

Dalmatians are believed to be extreme white piebald dogs with ticking but there is some sort of modifier in the breed that makes the ticking appear as spots rather than tiny splashes like it does on all other breed with ticking. The modifier probably also determines the size and distribution of the spots so would be hereditary to some extent. Aust Cattle Dogs are the most extreme example of ticking on a dog that is also born white (except for solid patches) and in them the ticking all runs together to form the roan look. English Setters have more evenly spaced ticking while Spaniels and Border Collies can have a little or a lot of ticking develop in their whites. All the breeds it occurs on are genetically piebald except for Border Collies who have Irish Spotting pattern whites. In BCs the amount of ticking is definitely hereditary as most only have a few spots but breeding from a dog with heavy ticking will result in a whole line of dogs with heavy ticking. Harliquin Danes are the result of a gene that alters the merle gene, so totally different to ticking. Ticking develops on white. Merle and harliquin fade out patches on a dark coat.

I can highly recommend Raelene Koerber. She has a great wealth of experience. Raelene Koerber

I have just sent a link to this thread to a friend who shows Samoyeds in Vic and asked them to put the word out. The dogs world is s very small place and I am sure that if this dog came from a registered breeder, you will be able to find them. Just a couple of days ago a 12 month old registered BC was offered for sale on Gumtree. With FB connections and the date of birth listed on the ad, his breeder was tracked down within hours and she has organised to collect and pay for him to get him back.

I would suspect whipworm causing the blood in a pet shop puppy from a puppy farm. A serious infestation now can affect the future health if they survive. Be aware that if you go to a different vet the pet shop will not pay any of the costs and if the puppy dies you will not get a refund. The pet shop contracts are written to ensure that you only get a refund if the puppy is returned to them alive or dies under the care of their designated vet. When I worked for the AWL we had lots of complaints about pet shop puppies that died but there was nothing we could do as the contracts were so well written. I personally would take the puppy back for a refund and if everyone who bought a sick puppy from them did that, they would stop selling sick puppies. Most buyers however go to a different vet, spend a fortune and are then stuck with the bills whether the puppy lives or dies. If you don't want to return the puppy, at least keep going back to their vet until the puppy is completely well so they have to keep paying.

Rabbit is great to feed if you can get it at a reasonable price. I would cut it in half and feed half today and keep half for tomorrow. Cooked boned rabbit is also magic with ill dogs who don't want to eat but raw I would leave all the bones in. I used to know some people who went rabbiting just to feed the dogs who got half a rabbit each a day, with fur on. They all ate it straight away except the bitch we bred who used to bury hers and dig up the one she had buried the day before. She liked hers aged.

The Canley Vale practice is still owned by Gills who had Austral as well but may be sold soon to one of the vets there. Not sure what is happening there at the moment but either way some of the vets from there and Austral will stay on. Austral had to close as the building was sold and is going to be redeveloped. The vet at Newbridge Animal Centre is Jenny Myers who worked at Bankstown and as a locum at Austral for a while.

If you are in Sydney, visit the vet Karen Hedberg at Nth Richmond who is a GSD breeder as well as a vet and is very experienced in growth problems in dogs. She can advise you if you need to see a specialist. It is possible that your puppy has problems but many vets simply do not understand the loose joints that some breeds have as puppies and can come to the wrong conclusion based on the breed of dog. If the vet had been an expert in GSDs or hip dysplasia, they would not have gone ahead with desexing a puppy that young as it will greatly increase the risk of growing joint problems.

It is a very common and normal response of many dogs when they see one with erect ears, tail up and to their eyes, hackles up as well. The first time one of mine reacted that way I was surprised but the owner of the Keeshond he reacted to wasn't. She said it happened all the time. We simply stood the dogs near each other facing us in show stands and used treats to settle them, then let them meet again and all was fine. If your dog is more uncertain than aggressive and you have friends with easy going Spitz breeds who can help, I would be more inclined to take him for an on lead walk with them so they are both facing the same way, not in a head on confrontation, use treats to make him realise being around these dogs is a good thing and do not reprimand for any reaction, just remove him from the situation. Also if there is a Spitz breed handy who will drop next to him that would help with him working out the body language as well. If this doesn't reassure him pretty much straight away, then you need an expert. Dogs can be very wary of breeds they don't understand. I had one of mine as a puppy at a show with both his parents, walking them together when the puppy suddenly nipped at a smooth coated dog before hiding behind his parents. He didn't connect thankfully and then I realised he had never seen a smooth coated dog before. He had met lots of dogs and was fine with them but they were all coated breeds. The sudden appearance of the smooth coat in front of him spooked him as he didn't know what it was. He got over it as he started to see them all the time at shows.

Age will help tone things down a little but she is a Lab, one of the most exuberant breeds in the dog world so this behaviour is to be expected unless she is very thoroughly trained not to do it. One thing to remember is that a dog cannot sit or drop and jump at the same time. So work on the sit and drop commands under distraction using plenty of food rewards. Labs are usually very food motivated so make the food more interesting than the children and she should catch on. Always ask for the behaviour you want rather than trying to stop what you don't want. If you tell a dog not to jump, you have to give it an alternative that you do want. Also keep in mind that at the moment she is a puppy with the mind of a puppy. There is a reason that serious guide dog training doesn't start until they are over 12 months old and even then Labs tend not to grow up until they are about 6 so you have to be creative with the training. Another option is to have a crate near the door if you have space. Put the dog in the crate before you answer the door and don't bring her out until the initial excitement of visitors arriving has worn off a bit. Then bring her out on lead to practice her sits and drops so she learns that people coming over means that she gets to play at obedience for yummy treats.

At 7 months he is too young to be scored the normal way. If a normal vet had diagnosed this, they are not qualified to make a diagnosis. Has he been been x-rayed and Penn Hipp Scored by Penn State University? This is the only definite way to make a diagnosis at this age. Other scorers here may be prepared to look at x-rays but would not give any sort of score in a dog that is still growing. The breeder should be consulted about anything that is happening. As has been said, the breeder has probably done everything in their power to avoid HD but it is multi genetic as well as environmental and therefore without a crystal ball cannot be predicted, all breeders can do is reduce the odds of it happening.

If this was the case, this thread wouldn't exist. I'm getting increasingly frustrated with breeders refuse to help their own breed. Surely if you love your breed, you'd help. However, it seems from this that I have a romanticised idea of what a 'good breeder' is. So my thoughts are moot. I am curious about what you expected the response to be? Did you really expect that anyone would feel OBLIGATED to take on a dog they didn't cause to be born? Most breeds have their own specific rescue groups that are either run by or supported by the breed clubs so many breeders help out that way with dogs they haven't bred but to expect them to take them on personally is really asking too much. Most have said here that they are responsible for the dogs they breed for life, whether it be taking the dog back or making other arrangements for them. I know the NSW govt is thinking of possibly making it mandatory for breeder details to stay on the microchip and for all breeders to have to take the dog back or be in some way responsible if any dog they bred comes into a pound, shelter or rescue and I think it is a great idea. This would greatly impact on those puppy farms and BYBs that just sell to anyone with the money to buy and don't vet the homes properly. It wouldn't be so profitable if they keep coming back. I personally don't know any breeder who wouldn't go to great lengths to ensure the safety of a dog they have bred and we all wish that the breeder details were on all dogs and that pounds and rescue would bother to contact breeders as many won't. I have had two dogs returned. The first was only 5 months and I bought him back at full price to get him out of a very nasty marriage break up where he was being used as a pawn. I was on crutches at the time and couldn't physically take him back so he went to a friend until I was able to manage him again and work out were to rehome him. If I had followed my gut instinct the owners would never have got him but they came highly recommended by a close friend and I felt I couldn't refuse for no reason other than I felt uneasy about them. Lesson learnt on that point. The other came back at 11 months when his owner's life fell apart and she lost her home. I never did get the full story as she couldn't stop crying long enough to tell me. She dropped the dog off to me at a show and I gladly took him back. I later rehomed him, selling him for about 60% of his puppy purchase price and I forwarded that amount to the original owner who was very grateful and surprised to get anything back as she was only worried for his welfare. I have also worked in a major Sydney shelter taking in surrenders and you can tell the genuine owners from those that just don't care. I used to wonder how many of them would dump their kids if there was a convenient place to do it. I worked there for 6 months and in that time we only had two identifiable purebred dogs. A Mini Bull Terrier who was hidden from public view until the kennel staff determined someone he might suit and they did in fact take him. The other was a beautiful young adult GSD who was surrendered with all his papers. I rang the breeder and she was so upset. Despite a pedigree full of A stamps for hips, the poor dog had very severe HD. She had already refunded the purchase price and offered to take the dog back but the owners wanted to keep him and said they wanted to pursue complete hip replacements for him. The breeder was not in a financial position to pay for that type of surgery so had planned to pts if he came back to her. In her position I would have done the same. The owners then dumped him at the shelter with no word about his condition. As neither us or the breeder could rehome him he had to be pts anyway. The breeder did offer to come and take him to have it done but we were able to do it for her.

The first photo technically is clear sable and the second shaded sable. In those types of breeds though, sable is referred to as red or fawn.

I've never heard this comment in almost 20 years of showing Border Collies. Everyone I know wants their Borders in hard working condition whether it's showing or performance. Our dogs are NEVER penalised for being fit. I don't agree with that comment at all Totally agree Benshiva. I've never heard anyone say that either in 30 years in the breed. I know plenty of BCs who have been dumped in the showring due to being too fat but never too lean. I have heard judges say that all but one were too fat. Fine if they are but on one occasion the dog put up as being correct weight was drastically underweight to the point the owner was worried about his health and she is known for keeping all her dogs very lean and fit. Personally I prefer my dogs lean but not skinny like some of the performance dogs are. If I am not doing agility I don't need dogs that skinny but to say they need weight on to be shown is totally wrong. I do know of a couple of less well known breeds that tend to be shown too fat and the lean ones stand out.

While I don't agree that dogs should be shown fat, taking one photo as an example without knowing the facts is very unfair. It could be a bitch 6 weeks in whelp or one having a serious phantom pregnancy or even an older dog from the veteran class. Dogs get heavier all over with age, even when fit. Does anyone know all these facts about the dog in the photo? A Labrador should have a skeleton that is broader in the shoulders, ribcage and hips than the other retriever breeds and some weight on them would have been needed for their original purpose of retrieving in the freezing water off Newfoundland. So long as you can feel the ribs they are fine and until you have hands on them, you really have no idea what weight they are. I know with Border Collies, you may as well save your energy showing an overweight dog as they will not win but expecting everyone to be in hard working condition is not realistic. Many of us do not have the luxury of enough land to work dogs in and reasonably fit vs working fit does not make one iota of difference to the dog's basic structure and breed type. I would also ask how well you have all studied the Labrador Breed Standard? Here are some quotes from it: "Strongly built, short coupled, very active; broad in skull; broad and deep through chest and ribs; broad and strong over loins and hindquarters." "Chest of good width and depth, with well-sprung barrel ribs (this effect not to be produced by carrying excessive weight). Level topline. Loins wide, short-coupled and strong." Note the terms BROAD, DEEP, WIDE, BARREL RIBS, STRONG used to describe the breed. They should not have flat sides or be tucked in behind the ribs as the standard asks for wide loins. Honestly without feeling a dog like that you would have no idea if it was fat or not.

Great to hear that Mandela has continued to improve. I have recently found something else that works wonders with digestion in dogs and humans. This Kefir probiotic is easy to make fresh every day. The dogs and us are all taking it. I use cows milk to make it but you can use goats milk or several other liquids. I bought my starter grains from this Ebay site and am now giving it to friends as it keeps growing. Kefir

This is what the limit register was designed for. To limit the breeding of dogs with obvious faults. It was never intended that most dogs would be limit registered.

Most of the herding breeds and gundogs would suit your situation. A Kelpie, Border Collie, Aust Shepherd, GSD, Belgian Shepherd, Labrador, English Springer Spaniel, Golden Retriever, German Short Haired Pointer or one of the Setter breeds could all fit into your description. Basically all the medium to large breeds you see most of at obedience or agility trials. I suggest you head to a dog show or trial, have a look around and speak to the breeders. Also consider - do you care if they drool, would you prefer to pick up tumbleweeds of hair from a long coat or the fine short hairs from the heavier shedding short coats? Do you like the long fine head of a Collie or the heavier head and flopped ears of a Labrador? When I chose a dog I started with a list of what I wanted and a longer list of what I didn't. I wanted highly intelligent and easy to train to a high standard, medium size, long coat but not excessive. I didn't want a squashed face or a narrow head, drool, short dense coat that sheds a lot,, flopped ears, doggy odour or an oily coat. I ended up with Border Collies.

I'm still trying to figure out how anyone could rehome their first grand champion. Obviously they have different priorities to most breeders I know who keep all their successful dogs for life.

I think a Border Collie could be a very good match for your circumstances, keeping in mind that you will have to learn to train it properly or the dog will train you. As a general rule, the bitches cope better at home alone than the males, while the owner works but there are exceptions. Most can be kept in with normal rural dog proof fencing but they are all capable of scaling a 7' fence if they decide they want out so you have to be prepared to have an enclosed run if necessary for when the dog is alone. There is a wide variety of temperaments and activity levels in the breed and even within the same litter, so be totally honest with the breeder you choose about the type of dog you want and be prepared to wait for the right match for your circumstances. The parents of all puppies should be hip and elbow scored and DNA tested for CL, TNS and CEA as a minimum of health testing. Avoid anyone who wants to charge more for certain colours. They should all be the same price. Avoid anyone who wants to definitely allocate a puppy to you before about 6 weeks when temperaments can be assessed. Prices range up to about $1200 at the moment from the best breeders, so you shouldn't need to pay more than that for a puppy from fully health tested parents.

Sorry, I would tell them to take it back and report the breeder to local council for selling underage and most likely not microchipped puppies. Better a little disappointment now than possibly multiple thousands of dollars out of pocket to fix dodgy joints in the future. If they can't afford a purebred dog they cannot afford a dog that size. Food alone while it is growing is going to be a huge cost. I looked into a giant breed many years ago and found out that they cost more to feed than a horse. There is no way these young people could be described as responsible. They have bought a dog with no research at all. A dog can never get back the 6-8 week period when it should still be with the dam and litter, learning how to get on with other dogs. Removing puppies from the litter too soon leads to dog aggression which can be a serious problem if that dog grows to 70 kgs.