dancinbcs

A 42" crate is great for an adult but too big for a baby, so just block some off with cardboard or something. Also check carefully if it will fit in the car as not too many fit crates that big. A Sibe baby is very unlikely to fit into a cat crate at 8 weeks. I hope the breeder is going to be available as a mentor for you as you raise this puppy. A Siberian Husky is a big challenge to take on as a first puppy and you will need someone to ask questions of constantly. You will also need very good fencing as they can climb and jump and if they get out they do not come back like some breeds do.

Sorry, but I find it totally unethical to try to home a blind or for that matter a deaf puppy. Older dogs cope fine if they go blind and get to stay in their own home environment but to start out with a blind puppy is an entirely different matter.

Well done on finding all this out BEFORE you get the puppy home. So few people bother and then end up with problems. Now the first thing to remember is that puppies do not read the books about what they are and are not supposed to do and they are all individuals. Now for the points I highlighted. Puppies need to pee as soon as they wake from a sleep, after meals and any time they get excited. There is no real time schedule as it depends on the feed times and activity. Sometimes they will pee three times in an hour and sometimes not for 3 hours. They usually poo within 10 minutes of eating a meal then about 9 hours after the last meal at night so if you don't want them needing to go in the middle of the night give the last of their 3 or 4 daily feeds, 1 hour before bed, let them toilet then play with them until about 15 minutes before you want them to bed down as they need to wind down, not be hyper to sleep. Do not leave food with them even in a kong overnight and I take the water up as well unless it is really hot but not until the last minute. Night time is for sleeping not eating or playing. Leave a safe soft toy in with them to snuggle up to. The best time to play with the puppy is after it has toileted but not in it's pen. This is the time to give them fully supervised access to the house as further reward for going to the toilet outside. Most of they time they will sniff around if they need to pee again but sometimes they just get a bit hyper or head into corners of the room. Any sign of distraction from you and play can be a sign to take them out. I like to let puppies have access to outdoors when playing with them and encourage them to go out if need be. I teach them to toilet on command by using a word then praising once they start to go, both on and off lead. If they need to toilet during the night, offer the same praise but no games. Finally, puppy will need a variety of toys, not just a kong. I have never had a dog show any interest in them but some dogs love them. I use a toy basket and praise the puppy for taking anything from it but give a little growl if they try to chew anything that isn't from the toy basket.

Dr Ann Neville at Bentleigh is a vet who does Chinese Herbs as well.

I definitely agree with Labs and Beagles, as a general rule, being the most likely to eat absolutely anything. Our Lab many years ago, when the neighbours owned him and let him run loose, ate some atrocious things and even tried to chew up tin cans out of the garbage. One night he raided a bin and ate a parcel of fat, newspaper and all before it came back up, another time he stole a whole roast beef from a neighbour's kitchen bench and he was not hungry as he had conned 4 families into feeding him. The guy who used to own him tried putting down a steak laced with cayenne and he wolfed it down and didn't even look for a drink. A friends Beagle ate the pizza boxes put out with near the garbage bins. None of her other 5 dogs of various breeds bothered with them. My Border Collies have varied from inhaling food to being impossible to get to eat and they all had definite food preferences and hated having the same food all the time. Even the good eaters could be distracted from food with activity. And now my JS has to be coaxed to eat much of the time and his motivation to work for food varies from ok to zero, depending on what else is going on. Edited to add that my current BC while being a good eater who will eat most real food, will not even taste any type of commercial dog treats except for lamb ears and dried liver. He turns his head away as if you are trying to poison him.

Agree, I'm forever meeting people who are surprised that our pet purebred dogs are ex-showdogs. They believe that only 'show' people can buy dogs from 'show' people. Their other surprise is how people- friendly and affectionate the two ex-showdogs are. They think that 'show' dogs must be 'snooty' & not people-friendly. Just for showing in the ring. I point out that our ex-showdogs came from the registered breeder, already with these lovely personalities. And I tell them that research showed registered breeders of purebreds were more likely to socialise their dogs well. On the point of expensiveness, any of this breed spotted in petstores, have been far, far more expensive than puppies from the best registered breeders. I just saw this quote from the Banksia info: The day starts at Banksia Park at 6.00am with an overall inspection of the newborn nursery to see if there have been any new arrivals during the night. The registered breeder my purebreds come from, has the mother dog sleeping beside her own bed, so she will be alerted & ready with support, as soon as labour starts. She'd find it unthinkable that a mother dog would be left in a shed alone to give birth. Did I say I have beautifully socialised dogs from that breeder? I wonder why that would be so! Also from that website are the statistics that their 5 full time and 5 casual staff care for 300 brood bitches, 30 stud dogs and up to 400 puppies at a time. The staff wouldn't work 7 days a week so the most they are likely to have on hand on any given day is 7-8 people to care for 730 dogs, 400 of whom are puppies that need lots of time and attention.

Most breeders I know don't register until 8 weeks but have to express process them to get their numbers to enter baby puppies in shows. Not quite so urgent with Ozentries online but before that you had to have the reg numbers 4 weeks in advance of their puppy show debut at 3 months. I supppose this is one added incentive to buy from show breeders who need the papers for whatever they are keeping urgently.

Another handy hint, when bathing, is to squeeze the shampoo through a wet coat, rinse then apply conditioner and carefully comb it right through the coat with a very wide toothed comb. If showing you need the make the conditioner something like Volumiser or the coat may sit a bit flat but for pets this is less important. Then rinse, squeeze through with a towel but never rub the coat. Finally dry with a proper dog dryer with high speed and low heat, holding the nozzle close to the skin and blowing the coat straight out away from the body. Blowing towards the body can cause tangles.

I know Qld can be slow due to their odd way of registering the puppies into the buyers name but in NSW no one should have to wait that long. In NSW they should be registered as soon as they are microchipped, it can be done online and you have the option to pay express to get the papers back in days. If you don't use express it can be up to 4 weeks. If you can physically get to the office in NSW and pay express you get the papers in your hand in an hour.

Pounds cost most rate payers money. They're not generating funds for their councils. RSPCA NSW made an operating surplus of $12 Million plus in 2010/11... see their annual report for details Here is a LINK But the RSPCA isn't a pound and mainly gets it's profits from donations. They take surrenders and cruelty cases, not strays. Strays go to council funded pounds and in NSW about 80% of stray dogs are returned to their owners due to their microchips. NSW pounds also have plenty of dogs up for adoption if you want a Staffy/Amstaff/Pit type or a Sibe/Mal type plus a few other options. So there is a big oversupply of breeds not many want and a shortage of breeds that people do want. Owner surrenders of unsocialised and untrained dogs make up a big part of those euthanised and why should people feel they have to fix a problem someone else created. Cats are a whole different matter entirely and sheer numbers all being born within the few months of kitten season means there is an enormous oversupply. The large shelter I used to work for who took all surrenders or wild cats, pts approx 50 kittens a day during kitten season compared to 3 or 4 adult cats and/or dogs per day and maybe a litter of puppies per week. They had approx 30 adult dogs, 40 cats, 40 kittens and a litter or two of puppies available at a time for adoption.

First, I would never let an entire male loose with other dogs I do not know well. It is perfectly acceptable for a higher ranked dog to put their head over the shoulders of a lower ranked dog and even placid adults will do this to puppies to teach them where their place is in the pack. An off lead dog park is not a pack but a whole lot of dogs from different packs interacting and that is why they are so dangerous. A pack that lives together will sort out their own order but there has to be constant battles when dogs who are strangers meet up. So to answer your question I would definitely remove your dog from the situation if he humps other dogs or tries to stand over another adult.

It's too late now. There is no punishment for children these days. They are given a warning What they need is a good old fashioned spanking so they can't sit down for a few days and then they might get the message but society doesn't allow that any more. If parents cannot teach their kids right from wrong before age 5, there is no hope after that as there is no effective punishment allowed, no matter how bad the crime. Kids do as they like because there are no consequences any more.

One extra point about combs. Don't expect to get anything other than a very wide toothed comb through a JS coat. The undercoat is very different to many other double coated breeds, being more like dense cotton wool. There is no need to get a fine comb through it, just to make sure there are no tangles or matted areas.

I would suspect hormone problems, so get a vet check first.

There are lots of reasons but except for dogs actually wanted to mate entire bitches or bitches in season wanted to be mated, it is just bad manners that the owner should have trained the dog out of. At the first sign of inappropriate humping the dog should be made to understand that it is just not allowed to do that. I have no idea why anyone finds it funny or acceptable.

Sounds like they are doing well. At this age standing a little is fine but they are like toddlers and will take a few more days yet before they get the hang of walking more steadily. Good work teaching them to lap. It is good to have it as a precaution when you have had some problems with the bitch. The puppies will let you know if they are hungry.

yes the VY is fine, aswell as the VZ which i already have, the VE is smaller though... more like a euro wagon and ford dont go there, LOL! I'm looking at getting a Commodore wagon and am leaning towards the VY or VZ rather than a VE for the room in the back :laugh: Yep, the VE has about half the room of the VY and VZ. Not as long and the roof slopes down a lot more. I have a VY because it easily fits two 36" crates in the back with the seat up. I doubt you would get one in a VE.

I have known of two Border Collies to lose an outside toe and it didn't affect the movement at all. Both went on to very successful show dogs.

I use a Mason Pearson Bristle and Nylon brush the same as I use on my Border Collies. After misting the coat with a detangler, I line brush then run a wide toothed collie comb through and give a final brush up. The slicker is useful when they are dropping coat and some people prefer them all the time but I prefer the Bristle/Nylon. It is important to keep removing the hair from the brush as you go as well. With the line brushing, part the hair and brush from the skin out on the body. With the tail and pants start at the tips and work your way back towards the dog in small increments. My boy had a enormous puppy coat and I managed with about 20 min brushing twice a week with him. Brushing out the puppy coat took about 6 weeks with several grooms a week, when it dropped at just under 12 months, so he has needed minimal grooming for a few weeks and is now starting to coat up again. How hard they are to groom also depends on the coat quality which can vary a lot from dog to dog and I assume like BCs, that once you desex them the coat will tangle a lot more and not shed as cleanly.

I like 5 weeks for an ultrasound because they sometimes cannot find them at 4 weeks.

Telfast is ok but I am not sure of the dose. There are lots of different brands that dogs can have but you need to know the dosage which varies a lot. With some they can have up to double a human dose and with others less than a human. If you stick with a child's dose until you can check with the vet, it should be fine. I keep Phenergan on hand for sudden allergic reactions but have also had a dog on Claratyne long term and tried a few others before we settled on that one.

Start a new thread on here and ask for breeder recommendations, approx prices, health testing, etc. As in all walks of life there are some dog breeders who are just weird but the majority are not so don't let one put you off buying a puppy.

Rude much??? $3000 is a lot of money, my OH wouldn't allow me to spend that sort of money without a bloody good reason, and neither would I for that matter ^^ This I think most families would have to discuss this sort of purchase it is a lot of money I agree with most others discuss the breed health etc first but do ask cost near the end of the conversation For my pet folk who ring I always mention the price if they havent as some dont feel comfortable asking as they have heard that you shouldnt ask price etc I agree, $3000 is a lot of money when there are so many perfectly good breeds available for closer to $1000 and most others under $2000. It annoys me when women say their husband won't let them have a dog but the money factor does need to be discussed just like it would be if the husband wanted to spend the same amount on a boat, golf clubs or whatever. The family has to be able to afford it. When Aussies were first bred here they were around $2000 due to the cost of importing the parents but they are still not easy to sell as pets because the general public are not familiar with them and pet prices have come down more in line with many other breeds. Of course breeding stock from new imports would be more expensive. $3000 pets are mainly the rarer breeds with recent imports, giant breeds because they cost so much to raise and the "trendy breeds" like Frenchies, Bostons and British Bulldogs who are so expensive to breed due to all the health issues.

One thing you absolutely cannot tell in a baby is how tall it will grow. You also have no idea on how much bone and substance they will have. The basic structure at 8 weeks is what they will be as adults but size is in the lap of the gods.

I have had that reaction before to breed milestones. It seems Border Collies are more advanced right from birth, often doubling their birth weight in a week. I have had them climb out of the whelping box at a week, their eyes are usually open at 10 days they can stand well and play by 14 days. I once had to help wean a litter that was just 14 days as the mum wouldn't eat enough and they were starving. We put down a large dish of Divetelact, stood the puppies around it, they dipped their noses in and just started to lap. Normally I would start them on solids at 3 weeks and by 4 weeks they will chew on chicken wings and greyhound biscuits as well as eating meat/dry/etc. GoldenWei, it sounds like yours are happy and content but I would get them lapping from a saucer individually as soon as you can just in case the mum loses her milk suddenly, as it can happen with a retained placenta. To teach them to lap, hold the puppy up so it is standing and hold a saucer with milk substitute under it's nose so the bottom jaw dips in. They should react by licking it from their mouth. A couple of short sessions over a few days should see them able to lap so if you do have to start weaning them before they are old enough for solids at about 3 weeks, you won't need to worry about bottles.