dancinbcs

The bigger question is how does someone steal a dog from the vets? Hope they find her soon.

The breed club in your state is a good place to start. The Beagle Club of Qld has a list of members who ask to be listed here: Member Breeders Other members may not be listed because they don't breed very often. I never used to have a listing anywhere because my parents lived with me and used to get driven mad with phone enquiries because they were home during the day while I and most other breeders were at work. As I only bred a litter every couple of years I didn't want that many enquiries.

There is still one important difference and that is if you buy a puppy without papers, you have absolutely no comeback if it turns out to be a crossbred. Many breeds look very similar as puppies and purebred puppies can be difficult to tell from crossbred ones especially if you are no expert. If you have a registered puppy with matching microchip that turns out to nothing like you thought you were getting at least you can sue the breeder. Other than that there is not much difference between unscrupulous registered breeders and bybs. There are however many ANKC breeders who do not show but still health test, are members of breed clubs and keep abreast of other health issues in the breed that cannot be tested for. It it the networking of ethical breeders that is most important and in any breed

All health testing is instigated by breed clubs. If they are not interested in putting in the work to research problems, keep records and advise the ANKC when something has become a breed wide problem and can be tested for, nothing will happen. Once they advise the ANKC a proposal for mandatory testing is voted on by all owner/breeders who can be bothered voting and if it is passed it becomes mandatory. In some breeds mandatory hip and elbow scoring has been in for some time. Mandatory eye testing is a bit more complex because the opthalmologists kept no statistics for many years until recently, so the process of determining which breeds may need mandatory testing could take a few years yet. As most eye problems do not show until the dog is 5 years + and has already been bred from, collating data can take a while. With DNA testing the Border Collie breed are at the forefront with 2 tests developed here in Aust by the breeders and a third used from overseas. I spent nearly 2 years wording and re-wording regulations for mandatory testing and had it passed but then the ANKC brought in their own general rules about DNA testing that contradicted the arrangement our breeders had been happy with, so the whole thing was scrapped. The BC breeders had already deemed these regulations unworkable. Basically in order to make DNA testing mandatory, every puppy would need to be parentage tested as well and every second generation re-tested for the diseases, adding enormous costs to breeders who are already doing the right thing. Parentage profiling is expensive and patents create very complex legal issues with all this. As much as I support the concept of mandatory testing, I will not support it until the results can simply be sent to the ANKC, directly from the testing lab to be put on the pedigrees and parentage testing for clear by parentage, is widely and cheaply available for all ongoing generations, not just one as it is at present.

I really doubt that DNA from a hair sample could determine any allergies. They can't even do that for humans. I have had hair samples tested by a vet who does Traditional Chinese Medicine, with some machine she brought out from China and it can pick up nutritional deficiencies and imbalances that can cause a multitude of problems, including cancer, but it has nothing to do with extracting DNA from the hair. Hair can also be examined for things like poisoning but again the DNA within it has nothing to do with that sort of testing.

They might look cute as puppies but they are very large and powerful, serious, guard dogs who will attack intruders. The photo on this page shows the serious side to them. My link

I hope the bananas work for some but all my clay eating dogs always shared bananas with us.

I don't use soft crates or crate covers because they are just too hot for a coated breed, except in mid winter. I wouldn't put a cover on a crate with an Aussie unless it dropped below about 5 deg C.

Whats the best way to thin out a very thick...fox-like, tail?? & matching pants :D I always just used a slicker and/or the MCK on the undercoat of thick pants and tails on my desexed oldies.

Our ground is almost pure clay and all my dogs over the years have dug holes and eaten clay on and off at times, just like they eat grass, so I wouldn't be too concerned about the dirt but I would be very worried about a puppy eating gravel or any sort of rocks. A friend's 6 month old puppy nearly died several times over two weeks at the vets and required 2 or 3 surgeries to repair all the damage he had done to his gut. He had a stomach full of stones and extensive damage to the digestive tract from those that had already passed through.

Look at the wire pens at Oz Grooming World, not the aluminium ones. Also have a look at the prices on Vebo for wire pens. The really light ones from places like GoLo and Deals Direct will not be strong enough for more than the first couple of weeks. The Bunnings compost panels work well for most breeds too but Border Collies climb them.

Thinning scissors will make the coat grow back thicker. The best way to deal with big coats is to wash the dog, rinse then apply conditioner and comb it through with a very wide toothed comb before rinsing. Blow dry with a dog dryer while using the wide toothed comb. This procedure saves hours of work with a brush. If you really want to thin the undercoat use something like a Mars Coat King or just a slicker but only on the undercoat, so part the hair in layers and work from the skin out, removing some of the undercoat. Then brush in layers with a good quality bristle/nylon brush. Never brush a completely dry coat but mist with a little detangler or leave in conditioner first. If you can hear the brush or comb going through the coat, it is too dry. Also never brush a thick coat from the top down. It must be done in layers from underneath and the ends of the hair, working back towards the dog on each layer.

For anyone reading this, considering another breed, the temperaments, personalities and activity levels can vary enormously within a litter in many other breeds. I have had Border Collies for nearly 30 years and most litters, not just mine, have a wide variety in every litter. For this reason responsible BC breeders never definitely promise puppies to anyone until they are at least 6 weeks of age so they can best match them to the right homes. With my last litter I still had 10 buyers waiting for my last puppy but turned them all down as unsuitable for that particular puppy. I kept her until the right buyer came along. The more demanding the breed is to live with the more important it is to match the dog to owner. Beagles are a pretty easy going breed, unless you want to train for competition obedience, when they become a real challenge.

Oz Grooming World, also advertised here on DOL also have great prices on crates and grooming gear. I am very happy with the crate I bought from them this week.

DNA tests available for Beagle breeding stock are: Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency Enzyme deficiency (anaemia) Primary Open Angle Glaucoma Both with an autosomal recessive mode of inheritance so at least one parent has to be clear/normal for each condition. The parents should also have annual specialist eye examinations as they can get a variety of other eye conditions that there is no DNA test for. I have no idea if they hip score Beagles or not. If you google health problems in Beagles you will find lists of possible but reasonably rare health issues. Every breeder should know about them and be able to tell you if there has been any cases in the near relatives. Breeders need to be aware of what may be lurking and be prepared to discuss this with buyers. In most breeds there should be no difference in price for colour but in Beagles I believe they do charge more for the tri colour ones and less for the less popular lemon/white.

Breeding healthy quality puppies costs a lot of money. In most cases the breeder is lucky to break even on outgoing costs for a litter so they charge what they have to to try to do that. A lot depends on how much health testing a particular breed needs. Cheap puppies are often not the bargain they seem and very expensive ones can simply be a rip off to an unsuspecting public. It is best to ask around, somewhere like here for an average price the breed you are looking at. Less popular breeds with few health tests could be as low as $600 and the most expensive to breed, like giant breeds and Bulldogs who require extensive health testing of both parents and puppies will be at the high end of the scale. Popularity also plays a part so currently the "fashionable" breeds of French Bulldogs and Boston Terriers can be all sorts of outrageous prices because people are prepared to pay it. Other unscrupulous breeders charge extra for unusual colours making out that there is something special about them when there isn't. Buying a cheaper dog from an unregistered breeder is like a game of roulette. You have no guarantee that the puppy is what you paid for without a registered pedigree and the breeder will not have dons any health testing. It can end in disaster as happened in this thread Sick Puppy Buying from a breeder who shows, competes with or works their dogs, means that they are breeding for dogs with sound bodies and temperaments to do all those things, rather than just churning out pet puppies for money. Most dedicated breeders only breed 1-3 litters per year, with bitches only having up to about 3 litters each in a lifetime. By the time they outlay all costs and keep a puppy from each litter, the income from puppies sold doesn't come close to keeping the bitch for her lifetime, so yes for most registered breeders it is a money losing hobby. The more dedicated they are about their breed, the more likely you are to get a good quality pet. Just noticed you did specify a Beagle. I would probably expect to pay $1000 or maybe a bit less for a good quality Beagle on limit register but some Beagle breeder could confirm this. Working on averages - if a Beagle bitch has 3 litters of 5 and the breeder sells 12 at $1000 each, they have $12000 minus the cost of producing the litters (stud fees and travel to stud or frozen semen, vet bills, worming, vaccinations, microchips, extra food and supplements for bitch and puppies, whelping supplies, time off work to raise them, etc, etc ) which is about half that so they are left with $6000. The bitch lives for 15 years and costs at least $1000 a year to keep. If they show as well, the show costs will just about eat up the remaining money so while the litters may have paid for their hobby the income will not have paid towards keeping the bitch. Now if things go wrong the breeder could end up with just 3-6 puppies, keep 3 and sell the remaining few. Add in caesarian costs at about $1000 each and it doesn't take long to end up well and truly behind.

Just bumping this thread again.

This sad article shows how awful Batten Disease ( CL or Ceroid Lipofusinosis in dogs) is for affected children. This is why the Border Collies clubs in Aust were so determined to have a test developed that now allows us to breed dogs who will never be affected. The research done on Border Collies will hopefully continue to help with the human research in the future as well. Batten Disease Many on here followed the thread about the TNS puppy and were surprised at how awful the condition is. This is to explain what CL is and shows why no one should ever get a puppy from parents that haven't been DNA tested or cleared by parentage of these two deadly conditions.

Apart from hip and elbow scoring all Lab and Poodle breeding stock need annual eye exams from a specialist ophthalmologist for a variety of eye condition that do not have DNA tests available. DNA tests currently available from GTG in Aust For Labradors: • Cystinuria • Exercise Induced Collapse • Progressive Retinal Atrophy For Poodles: • Degenerative Myelopathy • Neonatal Encephalopathy • Von Willebrand's Disease (Type 1) • Progressive Retinal Atrophy Optigen in the US also have these tests listed as available. Labrador Retrievers - OptiGen® prcd-PRA test & RD/OSD test &* NARC tests Labradoodles - OptiGen® IC test, PFK test , prcd-PRA test & RD/OSD test Labradoodles, Australian - OptiGen® IC test, PFK test , prcd-PRA & RD/OSD tests

Hand raising is not really hard on the puppies and makes no difference socially to them unless it is a singleton, especially if the bitch will still mother them, even if she can't feed them. It does make a huge difference to the breeder though. Has she put out an appeal for a foster mum? I know someone who had one available early in the week but it was only a small breed.

To me that sounds like a dog with back pain. Did they x-ray his spine?

He was originally classified as dingo x acd but apparently some dingo experts thought that he looked like a pure Alpine dingo. No idea - I didn't think that there many pure dingos around anymore anyway ... Dingos can be DNA tested for purity as their is an extensive database of all the pure strains left for them to be compared to. A Dingo wouldn't be for me either but I would prefer a purebred one to a crossbred so at least you would know what to expect. Crossbreds can be a real issue with unpredictable temperament.

Absolutely agree, a harness gives the least possible control unless it is one of the ones designed to stop them pulling. when walking out in public all dogs should have a collar they cannot slip out of, even if you have a harness or halti on as well. Many dogs will react like yours if there are two of them together. Two are a pack and resent the other dog intruding. It doesn't make them aggressive or reactive, it makes them dogs. The other dog should not have been allowed to approach but you need to ensure that you have suitable collars and leads to give you enough control. For a collar to be effective it needs to be placed high behind the ears and not be able to slip over the head. I prefer martingales so the dogs don't associate any pain with seeing another dog but they cannot escape either.

I class every litter as a loss of money to breed what i need for the next generation. I dont even consider the thought of even breaking even. I look at the cost of the semen and the insemination and the raising of the litter as the cost of getting what i need for myself Ian I understand that and have yet to come close to breaking even BUT I do think that we shouldnt think that making a profit is a bad thing!! Many that I know that have made a lucky profit have put it back into their breeding program. If more ethical breeders actually made a profit from litters by charging appropriately can you imagine the power it would give them to produce amazing examples of their breed?? I would love to import semen for my girl but honestly dont have the spare cash to do so- if I knew the litter were not going to set me back a couple of grand then maybe I would risk it but you cant and I do think that is why the number of pure bred pups being born is dropping. There is no "profit" when the money goes back into the dogs as it usually does. Money from puppies becomes turnover and that is very different to profit. Profit is what the tax department wants to know about at the end of the year after you have deducted all expenses. I don't know any reputable breeder that the tax department classes as a business because they make a profit. alpha bet, good luck with the plan but do consider that a lot of frozen semen pregnancies only produce one puppy and often none at all.

The basics are pretty easy to understand once you get your head around the genes all working together. Keep reading up on it and it will make more sense. Also keep in mind that mother nature doesn't always play by her own rules and odd mutations occur that cannot be explained by scientific knowledge to date.