dancinbcs

There are plenty of good vets who can do it, any of the ones that breeders regularly use should be experienced in the procedure as it used to be very common. Now that it requires a council order, the vets won't even discuss it until you have the paperwork in order. You are not a failure as an owner. Some dogs just bark incessantly for no reason.

Do you have a council order to debark? Vets are not allowed to do it without that now.

Blue, brown and dilute brown are all recessive and as such can be carried for many generations in any dominant black pigmented breed before two dogs carrying the same recessive genes are mated and produce those colours. It is perfectly possible for any BB to have brown or dilute pigment instead of black but what is probably genetically impossible for purebred BBs is for them to be a solid or piebald black, brown or dilute with or without tan points. According to the breed standard all BBs are all white or genetically sable with or without brindle stripes and from what I can work out, they all have a black mask. These can also have white pied markings. Sable and brindle are coat patterns not colours and for them to occur all dogs must genetically have two of ky and/ or kbr genes plus ayay. To be solid black, brown or dilute, they must have a parent the same who has at least one KB gene to suppress the sable or brindle. If a dog has one KB it cannot be sable or brindle. So if only two sable or brindle dogs are bred, they cannot produce a solid colour. Two ayay dogs also cannot produce tan points atat. Dogs that are ayat will regularly produce tan points and that doesn't seem to happen. The only possible explanation for solid colours turning up is that some of the whites are in fact solids genetically and the white is covering the solid colour or if any of the red/fawns do not have masks and therefore could be recessive ee red/yellows, not sables, that could also be masking solid colour.

Gee I wish my vets were that sort of prices $55 Consult c5 Vacc $88 Trienniel C% around $130 M/Chip $60.50 or $44 with a GA procedure ie desexing And apparently their fees went up recently. Desexing bitch over 15kgs $350 We only have one vet clinic, its 400kms to another one - whom I wouldn't - visit or further. One of the busiest and best breeder's vets in Sydney over the past 25+ years. Specialising in canine reproduction, birds and wildlife and employing about 10-12 vets between two practices and being on call 24/7. Sadly they have had to close one of their two clinics due to the building being sold and I have no idea how much longer they will keep the other before finally retiring. Breeders rates approx as I never bother with detailed accounts and just pay the total: Consult about $60 but they don't charge it for just a vaccination, M/C or ultrasound for breeders. C3 $28 Microchip about $35 from memory Ultrasound for pregnancy $50 Desex 20kg mature bitch $175 Pet owners are always charged the consult as they take more time and higher rates for some services.

Chinese Herbs enabled my dog to live three bonus years after having a mast cell tumour removed with no clear margins. He was treated by Dr Ann Neville at Bentleigh in Vic, through my vets in Sydney.

I have always had entire males in the house with hardly any problems at all and often two or three at a time, sometimes with entire girls in season as well. At one stage we also had two regular visiting entire boys plus my two or three and they were all fine together. My boys have always been the house dogs and at times I had bitches outside. I cannot imagine leaving sooky boys outside. They are the velcro dogs in my breeds. I currently have two entire boys who are together all the time and they are number 7 and 8 entire boys living in the house with me. All house trained properly between 8-12 weeks. After that I think they all tried ONCE to lift their leg inside when they figured out how to do it. Each one was well supervised at that stage so I could really roar at them when they tried it. That gets the message across and they never do it again. One very submissive boy did on the odd occasion mark when I had a girl in season but he did live with two very dominant boys at different times in his life. He was also the only one I couldn't trust when visiting other people's homes. All the other have been fine anywhere I have taken them. They just know that marking inside any building is not allowed. Breed does make a difference too but it is mostly about training.

Apart from the consult fees they are about the same prices as my normal vets.

Also make sure you have a non slip mat with you to put on the vet's table. I thought one of my dogs was terrified of the vets but worked out the main issue was the slippery table. If I put the mat on it, he happily jumps up and is far better to handle. Put him on the steel table surface and he is impossible to hold onto. He isn't the type to bite but can sure put up a struggle. I have also had two dogs who would react to any pain by snapping. Both were always muzzled if the vet or chiro had to treat them for anything and when I did their nails at home. Once the procedure was finished and the muzzle came off they were all friendly again. The muzzle made them realise there was no point trying to snap and they just relaxed.

It depends how much it is attached. My dog had one about 1cm in diameter but it was hanging by a thread. The vet said to watch it and see if it might come off on it's own. Then the dog got an ear haematoma and we had to knock him out quickly with gas to drain it, so they snipped the epulis off at the same time. That was about 12 months ago and it hasn't come back. No idea what it cost as it was all one bill and I cannot remember how much but probably about $150 -$200 for everything. If the surgery is more extensive and they need to remove teeth, then it could cost a lot more than that.

Some of the known rare but possible side effects for panoramis or comfortis are seizures and neurological problems so if he ingested any of the tablet, those are possibilities. Throwing up the tablet is a common reaction to them. I have a dog who was perfectly healthy until I gave him the heartworm injection at about 4 years old. He started chewing his feet and legs and developed ongoing and increasing allergy problems until they peaked all over his body three years later. Following a few months of cortisone treatment that caused a whole lot of other side effects including severe digestive problems and huge coat loss, he had two solid years of multiple Chinese herbs to fix his immune system. It was a long expensive treatment but I now have a healthy normal dog. I second the advice to see Ann Neville in Bentleigh.

Always think like a dog. Try to imagine what the dog would be thinking in any given situation.

Pregnancy is 9 weeks and then they lactate for another 6-8 weeks so a phantom usually lasts until at least 4-6 weeks after they would have whelped. All perfectly normal. Don't try to get any milk out of her as that stimulates more. The usual treatment is feed less and exercise more which is probably not possible in this case. Rubbing vinegar on the udders can help dry up the milk but it will resolve eventually.

Contact the breeder of your current dog and ask them if the breeder with the puppies is legit. The dog world is very small, especially with a rare breed like Bostons. Every good breeder knows every other good breeder in the country even in much more prolific breeds.

Lots of good advice here but this point needs to be addressed. You have a herding breed and as such their natural instinct is to chase anything that moves. I have a breed that tries to head off cars. It is not something they grow out of. You must get control of the dog despite distractions and never, ever trust him off lead around moving vehicles.

I'm not sure that's true, but if it were, it's only because of the volume of coloured sports bred dogs that 3-4 breeders produce for agility. 35% of BCs at the recent agility nationals were produced/owned by 4 breeders who primarily breed colour. I bet that percentage would have been a lot higher at the Sydney nationals. I did leave a word out in my comments. I meant to say "ETHICAL" ANKC breeders. Yes in the agility world there are a lot of chocs as a couple of ETHICAL ANKC breeders, breed for choc AND performance and tend to sell the whole litter to agility homes. Only one also breeds to the breed standard as well and has dogs who could be shown. The good ones don't produce a lot of litters, you just get to see a most of the dogs they breed as nearly all of every litter go to agility homes. Add in the far inferior chocs at agility trials, bought from those who breed for no purpose other than colour and there are a lot of chocs at agility. There are plenty of other assorted colours around, bred from inferior dogs by UNETHICAL ANKC breeders just cashing in on colour but they aren't from ETHICAL ANKC breeders. Even with them breeding so much color there are still more blacks everywhere, apart from the agility world. There are a lot more show dogs than agility ones and for every show dog there would would be an average of about 4-5 black and white litter mates in pet homes as only one or two of a show litter, usually make it into the showring. A few go for performance but most end up as pets. The reason there is more of some illnesses in blackS is because there simply are more of them. It has also been noticed that some illnesses that are very rare in blacks, are becoming alarming common in chocs. Of course the colour has zilch to do with illness but the lines the dogs come from do affect what health issues they may get and the gene pool that produces choc is alarmingly small.

Not quite sure if I agree with this. There are some lovely chocolate & white & other colours around that are registered BC's. If you are talking Mains registered, then the OP has about as much chance as a snowball in hell, of being able to buy a Mains Registered BC. Almost all or them are sold on Limited Register & that certainly doesn't mean that the dog is inferior, or is not healthy or doesn't have a lovely temperament. It just simply means the dog can't be shown or bred from, which is fine by most people. :) As the OP is not after a performance dog and show bred litters have been suggested, the chance of getting a chocolate from show lines is almost zero as hardly any of the show lines have the choc gene. At least 90% of show dogs are black and white. There are some chocs in the performance dogs and they are a dime a dozen from those who breed for nothing but colour, so lots of chocs around but very few from good breeders. In the show lines black is most common, followed by red, then blue. Only about 3 or 4 show breeders in the entire country have choc dogs in their lines at all and only have choc puppies by chance as none breed just to get the colour.

Your family situation has a lot of bearing on the decision too. When I bred my first BC litter,I had a puppy to sell with a full white face. No one wanted her so I still had her advertised at 11 weeks. A dear woman aged 83, rang to enquire. She lived on 5 acres and was the carer for her invalid husband. They had downsized to the 5 acres from a larger farm and had owned BCs all their lives. She cried when I told her the puppy had a white face as she had once owned one and always wanted another. Alas, she couldn't afford the puppy so our conversation ended. The next day a young man called to ask if the puppy was still for sale as he wanted to buy it for his Grandmother who had already called. He assured me that as soon as his Gran was unable to care for the dog, she would come to his family. He came along with his kids to buy the puppy to deliver as a surprise to his Gran and the kids wanted to keep her then and there but they delivered her straight to their Gran, who called me when they arrived with her. I don't think I have ever heard anyone as happy to have a puppy. That little dog had a wonderful life with her very capable elderly owner who had the knowhow, space and family back up to take on a puppy at that age.

There are always plenty of BC litters and most good breeders do not ask for deposits until you have seen the litter and they have decided that they have a suitable puppy for your situation. A lot of good breeders do not take deposits at all. Good breeders ask lots of questions about your family and lifestyle so they can match the right puppy to you. Price should be around $1000 - $1200 but a few are now starting to creep up towards $1500. Anything higher than that is overpriced and steer well away from anyone who charges different prices for different colours. Colour and markings are of no importance in the breed. The parents of the puppies must be DNA tested for CL, TNS and CEA as well as hip and elbow scored. If the breeder cannot show you all those results for both parents, look elsewhere. Good BC breeders always breed for a purpose, show, herding or performance sports and always breed with the intention of keeping a puppy for themselves first to further the breed. If they cannot tell you all about what they compete in and their success with their dogs, look elsewhere. Anyone churning out litters of family pets, all to be sold on limit register, is doing the wrong thing by the breed. Some BCs do make great family pets for the right families but they are first and foremost a serious working breed and should never be bred with just the aim of making them pets. Many shonky breeders have on their website that they breed family pets. Many of these breeders say they are breeding healthy dogs but have no idea what a soundly constructed dog should be built like and soundness in body, limb and movement is as vital to health as the parents health tests so stay away from those. As you do not want a performance dog your best bet is show breeder who is breeding for dogs that are healthy and have great temperaments as both are vital to show ring success. Personally I never sell to anyone who has not owned a demanding breed before but some breeders will sell to novice dog owners. I always had a list of people looking for their second or third BC or had owned other breeds like Dobermans and GSDs before. Borders are high energy dogs that need lots of training and mental stimulation as well as a fair amount of exercise. They need you to be one step ahead of them, or they train their owners. In the right home they are the best dog in the world and the easiest to train. In the wrong home they can be a disaster. So read up, go to shows and obedience trials and meet as many BCs as you can to get a feel for the sort of dog you want. These are also places you can meet the better quality breeders. If you want to PM me at any time to ask if I recommend any particular breeders I am happy to do that. About a third of the breeders listed on DOL are what I consider good quality show and performance breeders, the rest are just pumping out pets in large numbers. All ANKC registered BCs are long haired and most are black and white. The wait for a good chocolate one could be years as hardly any of the reputable breeders have the chocolate gene in their lines so it would be easiest to go for a classic black and white.

There is no need for sedation for an ultrasound. My vet has always done an ultrasound for any suspected pyo as routine. It does sound like she has a low grade uterine infection going on as discharge for that long is not normal. I had one girl finish her season and then 2-3 weeks later her son kept sniffing her as if she was in season and for the first time ever became really protective of her. She had a low grade uterine infection and the vet was astounded that we had picked it up so soon. I didn't notice any discharge but she was a very clean bitch, so I may have missed it. The only reason I worked out she had a problem was due to the dog who told me something wasn't right. It is going to be a hard call with Amber if the antibiotics don't work. I suppose you have to decide whether to risk surgery to desex her. Another option might be to take her over to Dr Ann Neville, the vet in Bentleigh for her opinion on using Chinese herbs to treat her. She managed to clear up an ongoing, reoccurring bladder infection in one of mine that we had battled with for about 2 years.

Every breeder I know does an ultrasound at 4-5 weeks to confirm pregnancy so the bitch can be fed accordingly and and rested more and to find out if there is one or many as just one will mean a caesar 99% of the time. The puppies secrete hormones that start labour and if there aren't enough puppies, labour doesn't start. This is a more likely scenario with frozen semen litters and in a breed that never goes over the due date of 63 days from ovulation, without something major being wrong. We also ultrasound on the due day if labour hasn't started yet, to get numbers and work out if the first puppy is in the right position. This info can be vital if labour doesn't progress properly. Science now allows our dogs to have safer pregnancies just like it does for humans. Why not make use of it? Cost of course can be a factor so it depends on what the vet charges. My vets were only ever about $50 for an ultrasound so well worth the money.

It looks like a hot spot which is a staph infection of the skin caused by the dog chewing that spot or bacterial growth from leaving a dense coat wet at skin level. They are usually fairly easily treated topically and with antibiotics if needed and the dog should be fine to see the vet tomorrow. Keep an eye on him overnight though and at the first sign the dog is unwell, get him to an emergency vet as very rarely, they can be deadly if the bacteria spreads. If you have any apple cider vinegar or original brown listerine, use that to clean the wound tonight, then dry gently with a hair dryer and make sure no hair is sticking to the wound. If you have any Curash powder or EDP antiseptic powder, dust that on the spot after it is dry. Otherwise use Betadine on it. The best cure I have found for hot spots is the Doggy Eczema Cream from Nanna's Farm in Tas. It stings but works so get some to have on hand in case it happens again. Nanna's Farm

I doubt it would be chaffing. More likely to be that he has chewed there. It seems to be a spot that is prone to itching. If the skin isn't really broken, dab some apple cider vinegar on the area to stop the itch and check his feet, legs and underarms for any other red spots lurking under the denser coat, possibly from a contact allergy. Also check for fleas.

The ANKC registry is available online for members through the Dogs NSW Website. If you type in a prefix it will bring up all the dogs registered to them but for further details you need to click on the name of each dog. The only health registries are voluntary and limited to specific tests. Many breeders have all their health test results on their websites.

I don't handle perfumed products well either. I like the smell of the Plush Puppy Wheatgerm shampoo or if that is too much for you their Sensitive Skin one has practically no smell at all.

Just add a little coconut oil to a couple of litres of warm water as a final rinse after you bath her. Adjust the amount to suit and feed her some coconut oil as well. Plenty of good dog shampoos can be used several times a week with no adverse affects. A lot of show dogs get bathed for every show, so often two day in a row. Does she really need to be fully bathed twice a week or could you just rinse her over with water and dry for the second clean up each week.