dancinbcs

The short answer is definitely yes. A halti might help but they should always be used with a well fitted martingale collar or check collar as back up in case they back out of the halti. Use two leads or a double ended lead.

My vet counts if they are at least 5 weeks along but she is very experienced, has a really good ultrasound and on average size litters is usually no more than one out. Before 5 weeks it is too hard to count but after 5 weeks you can see them moving (in some cases running) around. With the original ultrasound machine she just used to say yes or no. She also doesn't x-ray in the last week but will ultrasound again if necessary to check size and positions.

Why not? With some dogs it is a very relevant issue. For most dogs it isn't an issue and sticking to all the old rules are a waste of time but in some situations re-establishing the family pack has to be done for everyone's safety. The issue I see here with the frequently absent female owner is that the dog has become "daddy's girl" and resents being pushed from that position. Just as male dogs frequently bond like this with female owners, female dogs do it with male owners. Some dogs are also one person dogs, refuse to take orders from anyone else and can get quite stroppy about it if you push them. To the OP. Definitely try to get hold of the book "Think Dog" by John Fisher to understand what has gone wrong here but in the mean time get a good professional in to help you and get the dog off the bed permanently. Do not physically challenge this dog or things could really escalate. Lol unfortunately I'm the bloke in this saga, although reading my previous posts I guess that wasn't established, and I get a bit sentimental when it comes to my puppy mate. I'm sure a lot of the problem is that I'm away so often and Layla is more than happy to be buddies but when it comes to territory it's each for their own between us at the momment. She obeys my commands as per previous posts, but if she is naughty she responds better to a telling off from the Mrs. Which is what happened after she bit me this morning. She knew Mum was very angry and took off. Oops. It is more common for bitches to attach themselves to men and dogs to women but it can work the other way around. Ruling out medical causes I really think this dog probably sees you as a regular visitor not the master to be obeyed. Her behaviour needs to be modified but as you have found out, physical confrontation is not a smart idea. BTW, expect the bite are to be very swollen and a lot more painful tomorrow. If it is just puncture wounds get some Icththammol Ointment from the chemist and put that on the wounds to draw out any infection. It works like magic on puncture wounds on humans or animals.

This book changed my life. I know the "pack heirachy" thinking is now considered old school but the methods used to overcome problems are mostly positive and that is where this book is at opposites to the old methods of Kohler, Barbara Woodhouse and Ceasar Milan. The other books by John Fisher are also worth reading as well. I remember ready a Barbara Woodhouse book where she dealt with a little dog with the same problem of the dog not wanting the wife to get into bed. Her method was to don a very heavy coat and leather gloves and remove the snarling dog from the bed. Hardly something you could do with a large dog though. I much prefer John Fisher's non confrontational methods that are so much safer and still get results.

Why not? With some dogs it is a very relevant issue. For most dogs it isn't an issue and sticking to all the old rules are a waste of time but in some situations re-establishing the family pack has to be done for everyone's safety. The issue I see here with the frequently absent female owner is that the dog has become "daddy's girl" and resents being pushed from that position. Just as male dogs frequently bond like this with female owners, female dogs do it with male owners. Some dogs are also one person dogs, refuse to take orders from anyone else and can get quite stroppy about it if you push them. To the OP. Definitely try to get hold of the book "Think Dog" by John Fisher to understand what has gone wrong here but in the mean time get a good professional in to help you and get the dog off the bed permanently. Do not physically challenge this dog or things could really escalate.

Do not use a card table. They are very unstable if the weight is all in one corner, so if the dog moves from the centre they could tip the table over. If you only need a fixed table and have somewhere to put it, then an old desk would work but if it has to fold up then you are better with a proper grooming table.

X1 X2 I do not buy the fact that the OH has a bad memory, he is simply irresponsible and lazy and does not deserve to have a dog. Dogs should never be loose near moving vehicles. I know lots of people do it and lots of people also run over their own dogs, no matter how well they are trained. The danger is simply too great. The simplest solution would be a tie up point near the gate where the dog can be secured as the car drives through and released when the gate is closed. There is simply no excuse for ever leaving a gate open if you have dogs. You may have to choose between having dogs or the OH if he doesn't lift his game. None of this is the dog's fault. She is simply being a dog and doing what dogs do.

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Keeping accurate records is essential to avoid a lot of wasted time. With my girls I noted in a small diary the date they came, the date they would have been ready to mate and the day they went out and kept that list of dates in the back of the diary as well. Each year I just copied the list into the new diary and added as the year went on, so I could immediately look back at the whole history of her seasons.

Most dogs turn themselves. Studmasters are more about actually getting the mating to happen, especially with shy dogs or a mismatch in size between dog and bitch. The old studmaster who used to be in Sydney years ago also told me he handled all the matings for breeds like Bassets who have problems due to their shape and weight. What breed do you have and roughly what part of Sydney are you in? Some other experienced breeders may be able to help when the time comes.

Most dogs do not need them but it depends on the breed.

Most dogs do not need them but it depends on the breed.

Back to the original question. I have no idea what they charge but Dr Sandra Hodgins at Summer Hill Village Vet is a top notch vet who started with my vets and now works one day a week for them and the rest at her own practice at Summer Hill.

Same - and it does the blacks well too. I recently bought some Kelco Plum White and have been happy with that as well. I understand what dancinbcs says about genetically white and black coats but no matter how genetically white Jazz is, clay still stains so a stain remover and a good shampoo is needed. I can tell the difference when I sue a normal shampoo or a whitening shampoo. Although I never found the Plush Puppy 1 brought her up really well yet I know others swear by it. It also depends how porous the hair is. Some coats take up stains a lot more than others do. I had one BC bitch who never stayed dirty but others have had coats you can feel dirt clinging too and see the staining. The full brother to the "clean one" loved dust baths so he was always dirty. :laugh: The same goes for my JS. He has a heavy non-porous coat that the dirt and even grease just drops off. He is always white, bathed or not but his sire has a completely different coat that is a bit of a battle to keep white. One thing I did learn early on with Borders was to never leave dirt on the whites. Rinse out fresh mud/dust with clean water and remove grass sap with warm water asap. This cuts down on a lot of work keeping them white.

But the vets breeders use are the best. Breeders cannot afford to go to anyone that doesn't know exactly what they are doing. The other bonus is cheaper vaccines than "pet vets". I paid $28 today for a C3 for one of mine. :)

Bitches usually mate around the same day but not always. So work on when she mated last time as a guide. I gather the dog you want is on the way to and from the trial. Can you line him up if the days work out and have the brother as back up if they don't? If your girl is only ready day 12 and 13 you could be in trouble though unless you use a dog at the trial. I have no problem with you trialling the bitch and not keeping a puppy, if you have homes lined up. My concern was health testing and lining the pockets of someone who sells unregistered dogs.

I have never needed a black shampoo. Mine have all been genetically so black that it wouldn't matter what I washed them in. They also have genetically white whites so I rarely needed a whitening shampoo either. Personally I like the PP Body Building shampoo and the occasional use of PP Deep Cleansing shampoo but have used the Kelco Plum white as well and it is pretty good. You have to watch that the whitening shampoos don't build up and cause a grey tint. The Deep Cleansing or a clarifying shampoo will remove it if it happens. Most good shampoos recommend diluting them but I prefer to put a small amount neat on my hands, rub them together to build up a lather than apply it to a fairly wide area of the dog. The only one I dilute is the PP Sensitive Skin one I use on my sensitive boy because I want the minimum of anything on him but it doesn't give the finish of the Body Building one I used to use on him. I have tried Champion Tails but I don't like it on long coats.

I wouldn't have anything to do with anyone breeding unregistered Choc Borders. Does he have all his health tests - DNA for TNS, CL and CEA as well as hip and elbow scoring? I also hope your bitch is registered and has all the health tests as well. As to what day I have had dogs mate successfully any time from day 4 to 28 so she will be ready when she is ready.

Me either. I have never had a dog stay overnight at the vets for any reason. With surgery I take them in, wait for them (often watch the surgery) and take them home. I am only 10-15 minutes from the vets so can keep a better eye on them at home and call the vet 24/7 if I need them. There is no staff at the vets overnight anyway unless they have a critical case or are in there doing an after hours caesar so I see no point in stressing the dog by it being stuck in a cage at the vets. If the patients are really critical my vets sometimes take them home with them overnight to save going back and forth to check on them. Vets in the outer suburbs are a lot cheaper because they have lower overheads. Most breeders use specific vets who have experience in reproduction and dealing with show dogs. Almost everyone I know uses Austral, Vineyard, Quakers Hill or North Richmond vets. Many breeders travel an hour or more to these vets.

The breed standards were written before anyone understood genetics and while blue is in the breed standard it also states that the nose must be black and that is genetically impossible, so no blue can meet the breed standard. They need to either include a blue nose or get rid of the colour entirely but getting a standard changed is very difficult. In many but not all breeds the dilute gene causes skin issues as well and SBTs are one of the worst affected, especially when they breed just for the colour rather than for any sort of quality. The breeders in the DOL listings have registered dogs but a lot are very shonky. I would not recommend 75% of the Border Collie breeders with litters listed on there. I'm sure it is the same for other popular breeds.

seems a bit odd..esp if pups are papered ..AND going at 6 weeks ? Clear breach of ANKC code of ethics. And against State Law in NSW to sell or give away any puppy under 8 weeks. The breeder should be reported to Dogs NSW and the local council. The ANKC code of ethics requires puppies to be vaccinated at 6 weeks and not released for 2 weeks after. It also requires them to be microchipped and wormed as does State law. Definitely find another breeder as this one is completely unethical. The receptionist at my vet told me when i rang that its legal in nsw to sell puppies at 6 weeks... am waiting for my vet to call me back re original question.. thnx to those who assisted Sorry, but your vet's receptionist is wrong. Perhaps you can pass her a copy of the NSW Code of Practice for Breeding Cats and Dogs so she can hand out the correct information to anyone else who asks. It is also in the Companion Animals Act as well as the code of practice but I cannot be bothered looking it for someone who asked for advice and is choosing to ignore it.

seems a bit odd..esp if pups are papered ..AND going at 6 weeks ? Clear breach of ANKC code of ethics. And against State Law in NSW to sell or give away any puppy under 8 weeks. The breeder should be reported to Dogs NSW and the local council. The ANKC code of ethics requires puppies to be vaccinated at 6 weeks and not released for 2 weeks after. It also requires them to be microchipped and wormed as does State law. Definitely find another breeder as this one is completely unethical. The receptionist at my vet told me when i rang that its legal in nsw to sell puppies at 6 weeks... am waiting for my vet to call me back re original question.. thnx to those who assisted Sorry, but your vet's receptionist is wrong. Perhaps you can pass her a copy of the NSW Code of Practice for Breeding Cats and Dogs so she can hand out the correct information to anyone else who asks. It is also in the Companion Animals Act as well as the code of practice but I cannot be bothered looking it for someone who asked for advice and is choosing to ignore it.

If you have a hydrobath, vetbed can also be washed in there.

seems a bit odd..esp if pups are papered ..AND going at 6 weeks ? Clear breach of ANKC code of ethics. And against State Law in NSW to sell or give away any puppy under 8 weeks. The breeder should be reported to Dogs NSW and the local council. The ANKC code of ethics requires puppies to be vaccinated at 6 weeks and not released for 2 weeks after. It also requires them to be microchipped and wormed as does State law. Definitely find another breeder as this one is completely unethical.

That is what I assumed- they'd need an experienced owner etc. She is on the dogs available for adoption on Facebook by friends of Hawkesbury companion animal shelter. They post dogs that need adoption. It was on a FB wall post with others available for adoption. Stunning looking girl, hope she goes to the right sort of home. If it is in a shelter it is highly unlikely to be a breed that no one knows is in the county yet. Rare imported breeds do not end up in shelters.