dancinbcs

I have used Metamucil with an old dog. Just mix it with the food and add plenty of liquid to the meal.

Crate or puppy pen inside to prevent destruction and provide him with lots of things he can chew. Sturdy toys, bones, kongs, nylabones, beefhide chews, etc. Outside few large untreated wood chunks can be useful for serious chewers. When he is out of the crate, under supervision, provide him with a toy box or basket full of toys he can chew. Praise lavishly every time he takes something from his toy basket and growl whenever he looks interested in chewing something he shouldn't. They soon catch on to what they are allowed to chew and what they aren't. If mine feel like chewing something they make a selection from their possesions, not mine. Chewing is an individual trait. With all related dogs, I have had had some that hardly ever chew and others that chew everything they come in contact with. Having a doggy toy basket has saved my sanity with the last few chewers. I wish I had thought of it with my earlier dogs. It would have saved a lot of damage to my house and household items.

If the puppy was allowed out onto the ground to toilet on the journey north, it may have picked up the parvo in transit, or someone could have walked it in to the new owners home on the first day. If the parvo came from your property you would have other puppies with it as well. As to what to do about liability, I have no idea. Have never heard of this happening before to anyone. Perhaps as a gesture of good will, not liability, you could offer to refund half the purchase price to cover vet bills?

Mine always start to swell and bleed the same day Maybe you are missing the first few days bleeding if it is very slight.

I am sorry, but I really think you are way out of your depth with this puppy and it would be best for both of you if you returned him to the breeder asap. I am very concerned for this little puppy. You don't seem at all happy with him and don't have any idea about raising a puppy of any kind let alone a normal Border Collie, that this one sounds like. You have stated that he came from a reputable breeder and any reputable breeder would be more than happy to have him returned if you are not coping. If you think he is a handful now, he will be absolute nightmare in few months if you don't know what you are doing. Border Collies are one of the most demanding breeds to raise and not one that should be taken on by a complete novice dog owner, unless you have an experienced dog owner/trainer nearby to help you cope with them. Please contact the breeder of this puppy and try to negotiate a return. Then do a lot more research about raising puppies, not just choosing a breed before you even think about getting another dog. If you don't know how to raise a puppy, an adult dog might be a better option than a puppy for you.

If you are only going to be at uni for a few hours at a time, why on earth would you want him to revert to toileting inside Sorry but you are not making a lot of sense. Most owners would be ecstatic to have a puppy that is already toilet trained at this age and knows to wait until he is let out. With the training, remember he is only a baby and should only be trained for a few minutes at a time. 4 or 5 minutes maximum, then let him play, then another few minutes later. Many little training sessions throughout the day are a must with a BC, but never more than a few minutes at a time.

I am constantly amazed at the people who hand over deposits for puppies without getting a receipt, stating exactly what that deposit is for. The receipt should state that the puppy will be from a particular litter, that it will be main or limit register, if it will have show/breeding potential, if there are any conditions on the sale or disqualifying faults with the dog, when it will be available for collection, etc. Then if the puppy is not as promised the buyer has proof of what it should have been. With a reputable breeder, this shouldn't be necessary but it helps avoid conflicts. Any reputable breeder would refund a deposit if there is not a suitable puppy available.

At two weeks they should be able to stand and lap milk from a bowl. I have done this with a litter where mum had no milk left. It was a BC litter and they were only just two weeks. I had given the new breeder instructions to start weaning from 3 weeks but when I saw the puppies screaming for food we made up a big dish of divetelact, put it down and they just lapped. She kept them on this for a week then started with minced meat fed from the hand to each individual puppy at 3 weeks. Once they were used to the meat it was mixed into a slurry with the milk a few days later. By four weeks they should be onto soaked puppy kibble mixed in as well and by 5 weeks onto proper food with different textures. Idiot vet! I have never heard of anyone waiting until 4 or 5 weeks to start weaning puppies.

Can you crate her in the car so she doesn't have as much room to get thrown around. A soft non slip mat is also important. My dogs have all ridden in the back of wagons for many years with no dramas but they have always had comfy bedding so they don't slide around.

After receiving a full veterinary report of the eye condition, I would offer to refund the price of the puppy, whether they return the dog or not. The rest is up to them. Eye surgery can be very expensive and it is up to the owner to decide if they wish to spend that amount of money or return the dog to you. I don't believe any breeder should be responsible for any vetreinary expenses beyond the original price of the puppy.

I would get him used to obeying the kids with simple commands like sit, drop and stay, working for rewards so he gets used to the fact that the kids control him. Drop is especially effective used for this purpose. When he obeys them happily get them to give him a positive command rather than a negative one to stop unwanted behaviour. eg. call him outside rather then send him out, call him off the bench and tell him to drop. Reprimanding a dog is not something a 4 year old should be doing. Once in control the 10 year old may be able to issue reprimands but I wouldn't allow a 4 year old to do it. He can however ask the dog to come or down, to remove him from an unwanted situation, rather than pushing him out of the way.

I interfere as little as possible. If the bitch is coping on her own I just observe. Only moving the babies already born to the side as each new one is born. My bitches eat all the placentas, usually as they come out, so I never even see them and I have never had a problem. I find the more you interfere the more likely the bitch is to be a bad mother. They seem to figure, why bother to look after the babies if they have staff to do it for them. In my breed, Border Collies, a very natural breed, they should be able to mate whelp and mother with minimal help. I would not continue to breed from a bitch that could not. Once the litter is born BCs are left with their puppies 24/7 and the only thing we need to do in the first two or three weeks is to feed mum several times a day, clean the box out once or twice a day and weigh the puppies daily to make sure everone is gaining, and sit and admire them. After that the work starts but for those first two weeks or so the bitch copes quite well on her own.

being older will not stop him beimg stolen- in fact it makes him MUCH more valuable! Your pup would be much happier investigating smells and things in the backyard any day now-presuming this tent is made of fabric- the pup wil learn that his claws and teeth will be able to rip the play tent .... then what do you do ? I have known of several cute fluffy BC puppies that have been stolen out of yards over the years, usually from breeder's yards but it is something worth considering. Mine are never left out in the yard when no one is home until they hit the "uglies" at about 4 months and lose their cute factor. At that stage they lose their appeal and seem to be safe from theft.

I realise you are trying to do your best with this puppy but I am rather surprised that anyone sold such a novice owner, a Border collie puppy in the first place. They are one of the most demanding breeds to raise and a decent sized yard is an absolute must for them as puppies. You also need a lot of dog training knowledge to avoid the dog training you, because they will outsmart you if you do not know what you are doing. They need access to a secure fully fenced area at least 15 x 15 metres (a normal house yard), for an hour, at least 4 times a day as little babies, to run off some energy. They prefer an acre or two but a house yard will suffice. They can be penned in an area about about 2x3 metres, with plenty of toys, between play/toilet times but not kept in a puppy pen inside all day. Fully trained adult Borders can cope living indoors with regular walks, but not as babies. Unless they are asleep Border babies need to be "doing something", be it training, running, playing, digging or chewing or destroying things. They never just sit around and look cute. Borders are fanatical about toileting and can hold on for many hours to go where they think is right. My babies hold on 8 hours overnight from about 8 or 9 weeks and once they learn to go outside they would never be able to be taught to go inside again. Through the day when they are more active, eating and drinking they need to toilet at least every 3 or 4 hours. We often have trouble when we start to show them because many will not toilet outside the yard they have learned to go in. I once had a 4 month old puppy hold on and not pee for 21 hours when I took her away for a weekend. I walked her every hour until she finally had to go at 4 am. After lots of praise she accepted that it was ok to go away from home, and learnt to go on command, but she would never have reverted to going indoors again. If you are going to keep this puppy you need to work out a way to change your lifestyle to suit the puppy. Find a puppy sitter to mind him through the day until he is big enough to be outside without being stolen or arrange for someone to come in and let him out through the day. A male puppy is going to have a hard time coping on his own all day in any circumstances and I never sell boys into a home where no-one is home all day. The females cope on their own much better but the boys usually need more company. By all means keep asking questions on here, but your breeder should be able to answer any questions you have. Even if it means calling them every day. If you really think you have made the wrong decision about the breed, please return this puppy to his breeder asap. I know you were also looking at Japanese Spitz before you got this puppy and am wondering why you ended up choosing the far more demanding Border Collie that does not really suit your situation at all.

This is also a very pale cream and is technically a red. Look at the colour on the ears.

With my BCs the bitches are always far more independent than the dogs. My boys have always wanted to be as close to me as possible but the girls are happy to amuse themselves for much of the time. This independence is very important when they whelp. There are exceptions and btiches that are too clingy with their owners have trouble coping with motherhood. They are torn between wanting to follow the owner around and staying with their new babies and it can be very stressful for them. Again as a general rule, male dogs tend to bond more closely to female owners and bitches tend to bond more to male owners. So your girl is perfectly normal. Remember all dogs have different temperaments and personalities, even within the same breed, even within the same litter. You should not expect any two dogs to relate to you the same way or you are going to be disapointed.

Yep, but the breed standards specify that white must not predominate. So anything with less than 50% white is technically correct. There are no specified markings for Border Collies in any standard. This puppy looks like a pale red to me as well. ee red can vary from palest cream to deep chestnut. The puppies really need to be registered and the DNA results of the parents confirmed before they are sold. To not do so is just opening yourself up to legal problems if there are any health issues crop up in future. No BC puppy should ever be sold without proof that it is not genetically affected by CL, TNS and CEA. Now that these DNA tests are available buyers are entitled to sue you if you don't make sure that at least one parent is genetically normal for each condition. CL and TNS are 100% fatal so for these two conditions proof is vital. Registration is the legal declaration that these puppies are from these parents.

I believe the only Caravan park in Sydney and surrounds, that take dogs, is at Dural in the far Northern suburbs. Quite a few of the motels allow dogs in cars and trailers but not the caravan parks. I know a number of people who have stayed at Nepean Shores motor inn in Penrith with dogs.

It all depends on the individual child and puppy. I successfully sold a Border Collie to a 12 year old boy with very supposrtive parents, many years ago. I was very careful to choose a laid back, easy going puppy that he could cope with and it worked out wonderfully. The whole family adored the dog for all of his life but he was very much the boy's own dog. His young owner fed, trained, groomed and showed him and the dog was beautifully behaved. A Sheltie is also a nice choice for this age group, but the coat is more work than either a Border Collie or a Japanese Spitz.

I'm going to suggest a Whippet. They are very popular with kids at shows for Junior Handler dogs. Smooth coat, not too strong, love being inside. If your daughter changes her mind about the smooth coat, a Japanese Spitz or a Border Collie would both suit a 12 year old. Go to some shows, look at the dogs and talk to the breeders.

Advise the council that you will ring them at least twice a day to report these dogs until they ensure that the owners keeps them in. They will do whatever it takes to stop you calling because every time you call they have to fill out reports. I had to do this once and when the council told me that the owner was unable to keep the dog in, I replied that if they fined the owner enough they would work it out. After a few weeks of constant calls to council the dog was never seen again. I still have no idea if it was kept in or they got rid of it. Either way I didn't care, so long as it was gone from the street, it was terrorising.

Yep, ask to lease the dog, on paper so you will be listed as the owner until after you breed the litter. Pay the lease fee, and pay the owner a stud fee. Once the lease expires, the dog's ownership reverts back to the owner.

If you have already had a Border Collie x, why not consider a pure bred Border Collie? A family with a good yard and kids 7 and 10 is ideal for a Border. Just make sure to get an independant female if you don't wan't the dog under your feet all day. As a general rule the males prefer to be with you 24/7, but the girls are happy to do their own thing so long as they get sufficient training and attention.

I have no idea what they are like to live with but from observing them at shows over many years, I have to say, they are one of the few breeds I have developed a dislike of. Every one I have ever seen has barked in an aggressive and persistant manner when I have walked my dogs past them, either in their trolley or on lead. Lots of little dogs will react to bigger ones walking past but will usually settle down if told to, but not the Boston's I have seen. I would never walk a baby puppy near them as they act so agressively. There is no excuse for any dog to act agressively towards passing dogs at a show, and in most breeds the offenders are in the minority. Bostons are the only breed, where everyone I have encountered has acted this way. I personally fail to see the appeal of the appearance of brachy breeds but have met some dogs with wonderful personalities among the other brachy breeds.

Had no idea there was report button, and I must be blind because I still can't see one. Where the hell is it? Ok forget that. It shows up now, that I am logged in. I usually browse not logged in so don't see it. At least now I know what it is for.