dancinbcs

Almost guaranteed way to get a natural mating is to fork out for an AI first. I have even known of dogs to do the deed within an hour of the AI.

Find another vet. IMO vets that offer these "packages" are just ripping people off and those prices to desex a male puppy are outrageous. My vet is a repro specialist breeders vet and desexing my 8 year old retired breeding bitch last year only cost me $175. That included full gas GA, pain killers, everything. A male puppy should not cost any more than $200 in an outer suburb and maybe up to $300 if the vet is in a very high rent area. Desexing a male puppy is usually a very quick and simple procedure. When I worked for a shelter they used to do puppies from eight weeks and line them up three to a table. They would do 20 in a morning and never lost any. Doing them individually with gas aneasthetic is better and takes a bit longer but it is still not a complicated procedure. I have never known of a dog needing fluids after being desexed. After more complicated surgery yes, but not a simple castration. This is just over servicing for the most part to get the owners to pay more. Oh, and pain relief on the day of surgery is good but after that it only encourages them to to race around and break the stitches. Most puppies bounce back within 24 hours regardless of pain relief anyway.

I have always found my males to be more settled after a mating. They then know that the girls are only of interest to them on the few days each season when they are ready to be mated, rather than being obsessed with girls all the time. By all means have some semen collected for the future but natural matings are better when possible.

I am convinced that my two dogs developed skin allergies after having the heartworm injection. I used it for two years before ai worked out the connection and will never use it again. Another friend on here had a young dog die after it. There have also been far too many adverse reports my liking so I have gone back to using Interceptor monthly.

What colour did you expect the paw pads to be? All Jap Spitz with correct pigment have black paw pads.

If the move is permanent take the dogs because getting them into China is fairly simple. If you change your mind and decide to return to Aust, bringing them back is a lot more complicated and expensive. If the move is temporary I wouldn't think long and hard about taking them. Also make sure you can have the size dogs you own in the area you are moving to. Some areas of china have laws restricting the size and number of dogs allowed.

Fantastic news. I always thought Jap Spitz were magic little dogs but had no idea they were that magic. Well done Charlie and Emmy.

I always get a sample at the vets. My dogs always want to pee before they go in so I get a sterile kidney dish from the nurse, get the dog out of the car let her squat, collect the sample in the kidney dish which is exactly the right shape to slip under them, and hand it straight back to the vet nurse. No fuss or bother and you know the dishg is sterile.

Is it just me or does this sounds dodgy as hell? I would never purchase a dog without pedigree papers unless I was adopting from a shelter or rescue group. It seems to happen quite a fair bit where puppies that are sold as pets do not always come with limited reg. papers. Is it all that important? Yes it is important. Without papers you have no guarantee that the puppy is purebred, no guarantee who the parents are and therefore no guarantee of any health testing. With papers, if there is ever any dispute , DNA testing can confirm or refute the parentage. Without papers you are just buying a mutt.

One of my friends had a dog run head first into a fence and damaged her neck pretty badly. Recovery took several months but she recovered completely will no ongoing problems. You need x-rays first to find out what the damage is and provided she hasn't broken any bones these sorts of injuries are usually something a good dog physio or chiropracter can treat.

Sounds like she is getting closer. They can go from not being ready to being ready in the space of a couple of hours or they can be nearly ready for several days. Older experienced stud dogs don't bother wasting energy until they are spot on so just let your boy decide. The other thing I have observed with experienced stud dogs is that if the bitch has a full season but does not ovulate (shown by prog tests) the dog seems to know and won't bother trying to mate her. Prog testing can be very handy but for me the best ovulation detector has always been a stud dog that knows what he is doing.

I was just explaining for the others that she is the colour that results from tri and sable occuring together.

Amber is a shaded sable that results when tri and sable genes combine. A clear sable with two sable genes is almost impossible to discern from a red except the sable will have a few black tipped hairs just down from the base of the tale. This occurs in other breeds as well. Gold coloured Cockers can be either clear sable or "ee" red genetically and are still called gold even though they are gentically different. Clear sable is very rare in Borders. Most of the sables are shaded sable but a clear sable is possible. In the past all the reds and sables were called sable. The term red was only introduced when red was added to the standard.

I've had one not ready until day 26. She had 7 puppies and the dog was not interested at all until day 26. If she is still bleeding she is not ready. Just be patient, your dog knows what he is doing.

You need to work out what happens if: there is only one puppy - who gets it? who gets first choice of puppies - you or the breeder? what happens if there is not a puppy of the sex you want available - do you then get a stud fee? if so how much and when will it be paid? Personally I prefer to work a stud fee out on a per puppy basis so that the breeder doesn't get slugged a full fee if they ony get one or two but they pay a fair price for a large litter. The other option is to set a full fee, usually about the price of a puppy and offer a free return if she has say less than three. It is usually better to work out a stud fee first and agree that you can take a puppy in lieu of the stud fee if a suitable one is available. It saves a lot of arguments and misunderstandings. Oh, and don't sign the service agreement until you have the stud fee or a guarantee in writing that you will get a puppy. Hope everything works out as planned and there are no complications, but it is best to cover all possibilities before you start. Good luck.

My only suggestions woud be to see if you can find a racing Whippet muzzle or find someone who makes greyhound muzzles that might custom make one to size.

You have a point when you are talking about a rare breed that is mostly from imports. In this case all your puppies should be more expensive to cover some of your costs but obviously pet buyers will only pay so much. Therefore I imagine you have to set a more reasonable pet price and try to compensate by charging a premium for breeding stock being sought by others. Fair enough. If others want to benefit from your imports they should have to pay for them. For those of us with common breeds where the bloodlines are pretty much the same if you go back 5 or 6 generations there can be no real justification for charging higher main register prices. Mystiqview, Libertybrook and I all have Border Collies so our perspective is different to yours. Australian Borders are exported to the world who all look to us for foundation stock. Imports are extremely rare and usually not sought after because they usually don't measure up to what we already have. Also showing Borders is extremely competitive and it is almost impossible to encourage any new exhibitors, so the last thing we want to do is discourage anyone from trying by charging them a higher price for a puppy with show potential. There are so few show homes available for the many show quality puppies produced that breeders will often place a promising puppy at no charge in an established show home in order to get it in the ring. Having puppies with our prefix succeed is the main objective. If others then benefit from breeding from them so much the better. We don't have people jealously guarding bloodlines because the lines are all mixed up anyway.

It depends on the breed and if you had progesterone tests done. They whelp 63 days from ovulation not from mating. Some bitches will mate before ovulation but most won't mate until after. Sometimes this is a breed trait. Some breeds seem to whelp at day 64 or 65 post mating indicating that they mated early. In my breed where they nearly always mate after ovulation, they hardly ever go over 63 days without it being a major problem. Personally I get a daily vet check and ultrasound if I don't have puppies arrive by day 63. It is simply not worth the risk to wait and see what happens. Also if it is a singleton puppy a lot of bitches never go into labour at all. The puppies generate one of the hormones needed to send the bitch into labour. Not enough puppies = not enough hormone, so labour never starts. This is why so many singleton puppies are born by caesarian.

Another one here that thinks it definitely sound like thyroid problems. I would be changing vets and getting a full investigation done as Erny suggested. The fence jumping and coming in the front door is a common problem in dogs that want to be let in to the house. They realise that the quickest way to to be let in is to turn up at the front door. The best solution would be a doggy door so he could come and go as he wants but I understand it is probably not possible in a rental. Crate traing may be an option to settle him down as it has now become a learned behaviour. Oh, and 8 should not be old for dog that size. I wouldn't expect a Shiba to start showing any aging signs until at least 10 or 11 at least. I have BCs and they are in their prime between about 5 and 9. They usually don't even start to slow down until 12 or 13.

Most of that list seems about right but $2000 for Border Collies really surprised me. Average for limit or main is about $800 - $1000 even from the biggest winning kennels. A few are charging $1200 but the only ones over that are colours, usually of very inferior quality, from those cashing in on breeding for colour only. Of course these are prices for puppies to be sold in Australia. Exports being sent as breeding stock are more expensive because they are taking a top quality puppy out of the gene pool that the breeder has ready access to.

Very well said. I too prefer to let them go before I have to. Two further points I rely on are: 1.Is there any hope for a decent recovery. If the answer is no then it is time. 2. When the next thing goes wrong I will give them their wings. Most oldies get to a point where they have multiple problems. IF you make the decision that one more problem is one too many then the decision is easy when the time comes.

I have no idea where all the secrecy about puppy prices started. I remember a time when our breed club put out a recommended puppy price and everyone stuck to it. So it didn't matter which breeder you went to, they were all the same price. They also did the same with stud fees back then. Now breeders tend to ask around and they still end up charging pretty much the same price, which for BCs at the moment is around $1000 from fully health tested parents. And yes, buyers now ask for the health results. The only problem I see with putting a price on a website is that puppies for export are usually sold at the going rate for the country they are going to. In some breeds this can be double the local price, so breeders may not want international buyers to know how cheaply the puppies are sold here. Puppies being exported should be more expensive because they are worth the higher price in the destination country and they are being lost to the gene pool here. The main problem with price secrecy seems to be in the more expensive breeds where prices seem to vary widely.

Most pets werein fact sold with main register papers before the limit register came in. Some breeders chose not to register them but most did register. A lot depended on which state you were in. SA did not register but NSW and Vic did. Not sure about the others. The limit register was introduced to stop dealers buying pet puppies and selling them as breeding stock to overseas buyers. A limit register dog cannot be issued with an export pedigree. Breeders then started using it to limit the breeding of dogs with obvious faults and somehow it has ended up being used to stop anyone new from breeding. I would say most breeders who sell all puppies at the same price sell them for pet price and not penalise those that choose to show. As for making a profit, no way. Maybe it is possible in some breeds but for my breed I calculated that you would need to sell 50 to 60 puppies from a bitch to cover the costs of breeding those puppies and showing and keeping the bitch for her lifetime of approx 15 years. As most bitches in my breed only have 2 or 3 litters of about 5 or 6 there is no way breeders are making a profit. Some show bitches only have one litter. Then take into consideration things like the outlay on a frozen semen litter that produces one puppy by c-section and average it out with the more successful litters. Sure breeders sometimes make a profit on the outlay for an individual litter but averaged out with the disasters over the lifetime of the dogs there is not profit in the long run. If there was we would all be claiming all our dog expenses on our tax. The tax dept doesn't want to know about it unless you can make a clear profit over three years. I personally don't know anyone who has managed to do that in nearly 3 decades in dogs.

So sad to hear this latest news. I wonder if Magnus was seen and did run off but back into the house to hide under the bed where he passed away.

Is Advocate safe for a puppy that young? I don't use it so have no idea but don't think I would use a multi-chemical treatment on a 9 week old puppy. My guess would be an adverse reaction to the Advocate if the puppy was normal when it left the breeder. Surely the puppy didn't have fleas when it was sold. I wonder if the fleas were at the new owners house waiting for a host to jump on to.