dancinbcs

Register them with a explanation. Fine is usually a slap on the wrist first time. $300 next time. They can also, only allow limit register in these circumstances, but all puppies have to be registered and they have to be sold with papers. No exceptions. For breeders that continue to flaunt the rules, their membership is suspended.

Direct quote from the Dogs NSW website. Note: once you become a member of DOGS NSW, in accordance with the Regulations you may only breed with pedigree dogs on the Main Register of the ANKC Database, register all puppies in a litter and provide the Certificates of Registration & Pedigree to all new owners. You are not permitted to sell any puppies 'without papers' i.e. Certificates of Registration or breed any dogs that are not registered on the Main Register of the ANKC National Database. So in NSW the answer is definitely no, a breeder is not permitted to sell puppies without papers and I would avoid anyone who offered that option. Also forwarding their email to Dogs NSW for investigation would be a good idea as it is clear breach of the rules. The best way to find a puppy from a reputable breeder is to ask on here for private recommendations of the breed you are interested in. If you mention the area where you are you might even find a breeder somewhere reasonably close.

Quoted from the Dogs NSW Code of Ethics 5. A Member shall not knowingly permit any of that Member's pure bred dogs to be mated to a dog of a different breed, to a cross-bred dog, or to any unregistered dog of the same breed or to a dog not on the Main Register unless:- i) such mating is for the health, welfare and/or the development of a breed or an aspect thereof, and ii) The member has obtained the prior approval of the Board of Directors. The prohibition against crossbreeding contained in this clause shall not apply to guide and working dogs. 12/08.

The crates favoured by airlines are Vari Kennels, that are plastic and made in two pieces that are joined with screws around the middle. Not sure if the giant size would be big enough for a GSD or not. Here is a link to someone that sells them http://www.australianexplorer.com/shop/products/148.php Otherwise enquire about hiring a solid steel crate for a few weeks before the trip but make sure you can transport the crate to the airport. A large steel crate will take up a lot of room in a vehicle, unless you have someone with a box trailer that can deliver you, the dog and crate to the airport.

This whole pregnancy is so weird. Bitches whelp 63 from ovulation no matter when they are mated. They usually conceive if mated up to 3 days before ovulation and 3-4 days after. Border Collies usually mate 24-48 hours after ovulation, almost never before. The fact that this litter arrived 59 days post mating means that she must have ovulated 4 days before you got the first mating and 6 days before the second mating. It is very unusual for a bitch to still stand 6 days after ovulation and to conceive 9 puppies with a mating 4 days after is pretty amazing. My guess is that with 9 on board she ran out of room for the last one but who knows? The early puppy was in fact only 4 days early so that accounts for how she has survived. If she had actually been 8 days early she would not have been developed enough. Good work anyway reviving her and keeping her going. She is one very special baby.

My last litter was my most unusual due to being born in the middle of an extreme heat wave. Whelped in a whelping box in my bedroom at the opposite end of the hall to the room with the split system air conditioner so they would get the cool air without being directly in a draft. Air con was going 24/7 but the babies where still screaming with the heat. This was a litter of three very large Border Collies. I always line the box with newspaper and drybed to help with sturdy footing and removing the drybed made no difference to the heat, just made it harder for the puppies to move around. The solution was to put the drybed back in and put Ice Packs wrapped in towels in the box. The puppies lied bellies down on the ice packs, let out a sigh and finally went to sleep. They only woke to feed and then returned to the ice packs. They stayed in my room until they started escaping the box at 2 weeks so it was shifted into the internal laundry with newspaper over the concrete floor. Normally I would shift them to an outside covered concrete run with a shed attached and a daytime grass run at 4 weeks, but the heat continued and it wasn't an option. At three weeks I fenced off about a third of the yard with puppy pens and put the puppies out for a couple of hours first thing in the morning in the full shade of the house. Once the sun started to move around they would scream to come back inside, so spent most of their time in the laundry, only going out to eat meals and toilet on the grass, with a final outside run after dark before their final meal late at night.

Have never heard of this happening but there is always a first time for everything. Hope all goes well for the the rest of the litter.

Sorry but I beg to differ on this point. As long as buyers don't bother to do even the most basic research into buying a puppy, unscupulous puppy farmers and BYBs will get away with ripping them off. Most people do far more research when buying a mobile phone, that they will probably upgrade in a couple of years, than they do when buying a dog that should be part of their life for 10-15 years. There is plenty of information available to anyone who cares to look and it all points out that you should only buy a vaccinated, wormed puppy over 8 weeks. Disreputable breeders will continue to flog off puppies under 6 weeks as long as there are idiots out there to buy them. Puppies cost the most to feed in the 6-8 week period so selling them sooner helps boost their profits. ANKC breeders do not sell puppies under 8 weeks and that should alert buyers to the fact that there are good reasons for this rule. Unfortunately some people just don't want to listen.

I can't use the water thing either for the same reason. I ignored her if she bit me when we first got her, and she stopped. As she started teething a few weeks back, she went back to biting me again, but that's pretty much stopped now too. However, she's never stopped biting OH because he lets her do it and continues the game. He doesn't get it that he's teaching her bad habits. Try using the water spray on the OH then.

Hi Jed, I'm sure all the healing vibes have helped you towards a speedy recovery. Now if everyone can concentrate on getting your eyes to heal it may help. Great to hear that the insurance issue is sorted out but it will be a long few months as you wait for your new house to be built. There is just no way to understand fate. It is something none of us can control, no matter how hard we try. I hope you can take comfort in knowing that you did the very best you could for your animals even though you couldn't save them all. As with any disaster there seems to be no rhyme or reason why one survives and another doesn't, it is just the hand of fate. Keep up your great sense of humour as laughter really is the best medicine.

Yeah he was an Aussie bulldog They are not a new bull breed but a cross breed with a fancy name to con people out of a lot of money to buy what is essentially a mongrel. They are well known for having a host of health problems inherited from the many breeds used. Even "the gardener" that first promoted them, went very quiet when his one died at an early age from inherited health problems. The so called "breed association" is not recognised by any controlling body so is just a bunch of people who got together and came up with a name for their crossbreds. Sorry you were burnt by this and I hope comsumer affairs can help you get your money back. Next time you look for a puppy, try a proper registered pure bred with decades of dedicated breedign behind it, not a designer mongrel.

Once this puppy is wormed and vaccinated it will need some serious socialisation with other vaccinated dogs. Leaving the litter at 5 weeks can lead to lifelong psychological problems like dog agression. It will probably also be a biter as a baby because it won't have litter mates to practice bite inhibition on. As for food at 5 weeks. Four feeds a day, including a milk substitute like DiVetelact or Biolac or Goats milk. Minced meat, puppy kibble lightly soaked and at 6 weeks chicken wings to chew on. By six weeks you may not need to soak the kibble but it will depend on the size of the puppy. At that age mine are usually about 2.5 to 4 kgs. If the puppy is much smaller than that it may need the food soaking more. Personally I think it should be returned and a refund demanded. I'm sure if these yobbos sold a puppy at 5 weeks, they won't have done the required health testing on the parents either. Border Collies must be DNA tested for the fatal conditions CL and TNS before breeding to ensure that both parents are not carrying the same condition. TNS is fatal between about 2 and 6 months and CL around 18 months. The only cases of these conditions now reported are in unregistered dogs so no one should ever buy an unregistered Border from parents that have not been health tested.

Not timid, wary. But you're on the right track The breed standard describes the JS as "alert, intelligent, bold and lively" but also "slightly chary at first meeting with strangers". A JS should never be timid or aggressive. They are wary of complete strangers rushing up to them without formal introduction. They prefer a gentle approach, after which you have a friend for life. Yes, the standard mentions bold as well, so no they should not be timid but as puppies they can startle easily. With Emmy I would avoiding walking her where there are lots of kids and picking her up if a kid runs at her. Make sure though that you do not sook her or expect her to be worried. Just do it for her safety until you get the kids under control. I take my dogs to pet expo, royals, etc for the public to pat, so my dogs are pretty bomb proof but I will not tolerate children acting agressively towards the dogs, ever. Any kid that roars, barks, waves their arms or trys to whack the dogs is met with me roaring at them "DON'T YOU DARE DO THAT TO MY DOGS" in a VERY threatening voice. Stops them in their tracks every time and the parents are usually too shocked that I would speak to their kids that way, to say anything. I then calmly explain why they shouldn't do it and how they should approach a dog to avoid getting bitten.

That is only for strays in Council pounds. Private shelters have their own rules and are only supposed to take surrenders not strays. Surrenders can be euthanased the day they come in. I used to work for the AWL and they euthanased anything they did not have room for or they thought unlikely to be rehomed, the day of surrender. Those kept for rehoming were desexed and kept until they found a home, no matter how long it took. The RSPCA on the other hand used to hold dogs for a specified time and those that found a home where desexed before going to that home. Not sure if they still operate by these rules or not.

It also depends on how tough the dogs teeth are. Some Borders have chalky teeth that wear down very easily. It isn't a common problem but one that is know to occur. No idea what causes it because it occurs randomly and does not really seem to be an inherited trait. I have seen dogs with no points left on any of their teeth by the age of four.

I have no idea what they were talking about with blood transfusions. We took blood samples from over 600 Border Collies including many litters of 8 week old puppies, for genetic research 10-15 years ago with no issues whatsoever. For research they need more dna than you can get from a swab so all the samples had to be tubes of blood. With the litters our vet used to take the blood by holding the leg just to get the vein up, sticking in a needle with no syringe, letting the leg go and then just holding the blood tube underneath the needle to collect the blood. None of them even needed a patch shaved. It is a messy way to do it as the puppies move around but they are not the slightest bit distressed like they would be if you tried to hold their leg and draw up a syringe.

IMO 7 is a random number. 7 for a Dane is "older" age, 7 for a smaller breed bitch is quite a lot less than 1/2 her life expectancy. Some dogs no matter what their age are keepers, some aren't. There's always some which are going to be happier living as a single dog and their age doesn't change this - so what to do? Keep a 7.5 year old bitch to avoid being labelled a puppy farmer or keep her for another 8-10 years in a situation where she is never as happy as she could be elsewhere? Or someone who has not been in the breed for long, or someone who breeds very infrequently and has lost all their oldies through natural causes. We lost all 3 of our over 14's in a space of 8 months quite a few years ago, our next oldest was 5 - from ethical reputable breeder to puppy farmer in 8 months? IMO a puppy farmer is about motive not actual physical things. A beautifully kept kennel with all the latest mod-cons can be a puppy farm. Although admittedly, no loving caring people would keep their dogs in a sea of mud so the reverse analogy isn't 100% correct. Fair enough with the age depending on breed but I was just going for an average. Average size breed, average middle age. The point I was trying to make is that puppy farmers NEVER have "keepers", they euth (often shoot) them all when they can no longer breed or palm. of old dogs that have never been socialised to unsuspecting pet homes. Many of the bitches die having litters that they were too worn out to have. Age is not really a determining factor in how late a bitch can be bred, within reason. The number of puppies has has raised is. An average size breed can easily have a litter at 8 if she has only had 2 or 3 litters of 5 or 6 before. If she is bred every season from say 10 months and has raised 70 or 80 puppies then her body has probably had more than enough strain on it. If you routinely keep oldies then even if you don't have any at a particular time, you are not a puppy farmer.

Good explore this What do you think should happen when a bitch cant be bred any more? Caring reputable breeders keep their retired breeding stock for their whole lives. I have no problem with breeders that choose to breed one or two litters from a young bitch before desexing and placing her in a forever home but once they reach 7, I believe the breeder should continue to look after them in their retirement. One of the main factors in defining a puppy farmer is that they don't have any oldies living out their days with them because keeping oldies is what negates any profit you may have made on breeding them in their younger days.

Canine repro specialists say from a fertitlity point of view, breeding once a year is better, not every season. Also they are only talking about fertitlity not the welfare of the bitch.

My Oldfield is about 20 years old and still going strong. Can't recommend them highly enough. All my friends have them as well.

In my breed a day late almost always = dead puppies. A few days early is common because they usually don't mate until after ovulation. If they don't go into labour by their due date I would always opt for a caesar. You never know when you could be dealing with one that never goes into labour at all. Just not worth the risk to mum or babies in my book.

You are quite within your rights to protect yourself and your dog. No off lead dog, even in an offlead area, has the right to charge at a person or another dog. Even in offlead areas they should be under "effective control" and that means they should be kept way from any other dogs and people unless specifically invited to socialise with another dog. An offlead dog running at an onlead dog is NEVER acceptable. Personally I carry a short stock whip and find that cracking the whip deters most dogs before they get anywhere near mine. If they do get close enough they get hit with the whip. I did have to train my dogs to stand still while I crack a whip over their heads though so they don't try to get away from it. I wish it was legal to carry a stun gun because that would be better protection.

It is normal behaviour for a herding breed. You just need to make sure she has a perfect recall before letting her off lead where there are kids or anything else she may decide to herd.

Hi Jed, Have been watching the main updateds but don't get much time to follow this long thread. Just popped in for a look and saw the link to the news story. To say I am amazed at how well you look considering what you have been through is an understatement. You obviously still have a way to go but the strength you have shown through all of this is incredible and I am sure that strength will see you recover in record time. With so many of us willing you to get better and get back to your dogs, I hope the road ahead is not too rocky for you.

To those wanting to know how to get into ad work, there are animal agents and you need to register your interest with one. It doesn't cost anything to register with them but the dogs that get the most work are those that are the most highly trained. For TV ads especially your dog must have an iron clad "stay" in any position no matter what the distraction. It must be physically fit, able to repeat a sequence over and over, sometimes 20 or 30 times and it must be happy to work with a whole lot of strangers. As the owner you have to be available to travel to the set wherever it may, at whatever time you are needed and be available sometimes for several days. If you take the dog to auditions it is no use getting upset if they don't choose your dog. The ad agency and director will have a definite idea of what they want and will keep looking till they find exactly that. When they see the dog that fits the idea in their head, it will be chosen. The money is better these days but I did a TV ad for Lucky Dog way back in 1994. For my $300 at the time I had to attend an audition in the city (an hour away) and my dog had to be able to stay with his front feet up on a counter, bark on command and growl on command. I had the only dog that would do the growl so my BC Danny got the job. The next day we had to go back into the city for a couple of hours to train the actor that would be working with Danny, so he could handle him. Then a couple of days later I had to be on the set nearly 2 hours away, at 6am with Danny and his son as understudy. We then filmed for 13 hours to make a 30 sec commercial. The set had about 30 people milling about, cameras, lights and cables everywhere and Danny had to work amongst all this without being distracted. With TV ads they do many takes from different angles, with different lighting, etc and the dog must keep on performing no what. The production costs are enormous so they do not react well if the dog does not get it at least 99% right. There seems to be more tolerance for the the human actors to make mistakes than the dogs. The Directors assistant we had told me his last dog food ad was with Saints and it took three days to film because the dogs would not take direction and every time they set up for a close up, there would be a head shake and slobber all over the lens. So slobbery dogs are not popular with ad makers. At the time Danny was 10 and it was his first commercial. The producers of Babe had wanted him a few years earlier but didn't want me to go with him so that was a no go. After trying fo several highly trained dogs and meeting the same response from the owners, they put the filming back a year and bought and trained their own dogs. About 6 months after filming the TV ad I had an offer for Danny to do a another movie, but sadly I had lost him suddenly to cancer a few weeks before the offer came. I have many friends that have done ad and TV work and one friend that works full time sourcing animals for ad work. Several of her own animals appear in an assortment of ads. The stories I have heard from all these people about the unrealistic demands of directors are unbelievable. It is interesting work but you need time, patience, a very well trained dog and the ability to work with people who know nothing about dogs. Edited because I forgot to mention that in NSW there is a TAFE short course run occasionally at Hawkesbury where you learn the basics of animals in advertising over a weekend.