SoL

We usually feed dry, interspersed with meals containing either raw mince or fish, cooked oats, apple cider vinegar, garlic and livamol. We try to mix it up as often as possible so they don't get too used to being supplemented. I think there comes a time when we can build up either dependency or intolerance by over-supplementing.

I've just started adding this to the dogs food. The only thing is I'm not convinced I'm using the right stuff - the only one I coudl find is very clear and looks like pee! I'm pretty sure I need the cloudy stuff as apple juice when pressed is as clear as mud. Anybody know a decent brand and/or where I can get it from?

After buying our dog food (Optimum) at the local produce store, they informed us that it is not going to be manufactured anymore. Has anybody else heard this? I have emailed the rep for Optimum and am hoping to get a reply soon. I'll be spewing if they do pull it off the market as it's the only decent dog food for that price range that's kept condition and weight, I think and I don't relish the thought of trialling them with another food. Cheers guys Em

Go ahead and use it - they'll love it!

Only one way to find out I guess LOL

Thanks BB

Be careful you don't have an anaerobic infection in there - ie one that hates oxygen and can fester quite happily without it. If the vet is talking about drains to get the air in, that could be a possibility, in which case, drains and a special type of antibiotic (if I remember right, they're called negative gravity antibiotics) would be needed. I'd also recommend Lotagen for topical treatment. It's an antiseptic that stops proud flesh forming, forcing the healing from within first, instead of scabbing over. I'm using that on Brandi and her wounds were very open (say 1cm in width and a couple deep - the muscle was poking through) and they're healing up lovely. The best healing is slow. All up, I'd see your vet Good luck with it.

I just use a good disinfectant from the supermarket.

Cool, thanks guys. I've got some Malaseb here but I actually thought it would sting like buggery for her but seeing that I'm putting Lotagen on open wounds there probably isn't much difference in the stinging!

Hi guys Did a quick search but couldn't be bothered trawling through the millions of pages to find what I wanted so: One of our girls is recovering from serious wounds - her foreleg wounds are open (on purpose) and I am treating them daily with topical treatment. However, the rest of her has pretty much healed up, save for flaking scabs. Even though I'm brushing her down, her coat is starting to feel really manky. The problem is I can't give her a shampoo as I don't want anything to get into the wounds. I can either: secure a plastic bag over her leg with an elastic band; or use a dry shampoo on the rest of her What do you reckon would be better? Can anybody recommend a dry shampoo if that would be the way to go? Has anybody got any better ideas? Cheers Em Oh yeah, am treating internally as well with Livamol and fish with oil to help the dry skin.

Both my boys have broken canines - upper and lower. The cause? Chewing rocks (sneaky!) and freaking out in their runs. Yes we could have them crowned but really, they'd only break off again, leaving you with a big bill for nothing. Both are fine with half canines, as long as you keep your eyes on them that they don't go bad and infect the rest of the mouth. Trust me, they can still eat perfectly well! I've also seen show dogs with broken teeth - in fact one dog I know who was titled recently has the messiest mouth I've seen with teeth broken everywhere - and he titled with that mouth!

I've never heard of it. Can you give us a run down of the ingredients and the % of fat and protein (guaranteed). I personally use Optimum and have had wonderful results on it so it would have to be special to make me change. Look forward to hearing how your dogs are on it after 4 weeks.

Interesting ... that's the remedy for cradle cap LOL

if you look on ebay for 'leather half check collars' you will find the adjustable leather martingales from UK for around AU$15. I've got one and it's very good

HI there. Advocate is very good but it does not control ALL worms so you should definitely keep up the Drontal as well. Advocate also controls heartworm so ... If Advantix controls all fleas and ticks and you've never had a problem with demdectic mange, it may be prudent to use the Proheart jab, the Advantix and Drontal OR Use Advocate and Drontal and you can forego the Proheart. Hope this helps

I like Biolac with a couple of drops of Pentavite baby multivits. I also put Biolac on the mum's food as well.

Hi MM I really hope your girl gets better - she sounds very sick, poor love. I think the Peptosyl works the same as Mylanta or Rennie works on us - kind of a milk of magnesium sort of thing, not like Immodium. Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I think keeping her hydrated is your main problem so ask your vet about soluble electrolytes. Is this all as a result of Pyo or as an 'add-on' because her system was so down?

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you and I really hope the suspense and the illness are gone very soon. Which vet are you using? PM me if you don't want to shout it out? Just curiosity cos I know you're near me.

Stafford by any chance? We've had a few stafford lumps on our dogs - they seem to be warts and harmless (though each occurrence is inspected - never get complacent). One we've had cut off but the 2 others we've left alone and they've disappeared of their own accord. Good luck at the vets. Let us know what happens.

Hi Donna Go the bullbreeds LOL Lessons go for a couple of hours usually, though it depends on whether there's a big show coming up as to how many times you get to go around. I've travelled over there before a big show only to queue for 30 mins for one trip around the ring. Having said that, it is very good for learning the basics for conformation showing (there is an obedience club there as well but I don't know the details of that) and I would definitely recommend it for the novice. Good luck Emma

Hey guys, welcome! We're in Mulbring. For show training we go to Hillsborough showgrounds on Tuesday nights from 6.30pm. It's $2 per dog and it's excellent for beginners. What kind of pup are you getting. If it's something that stacks different to the 'norm' like a German Shepherd, then you might have to seek extra training specific to that breed, but otherwise, it's good socialisation (once your pup's fully immunised, which it has to be if you show it) and it will teach you the basics for sure.

Can't help you wth pigs ears but liver strips - have a go at this: slice up some lamb or beef liver (I find it easier and less messy to just do bigger slices first and then chop into little bits) and put it into boiling water for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven up to 150. Take liver out and drain on paper towel. Get a baking sheet and put baking paper on it. Cut liver into treat-sized pieces and put on baking sheet. Spray with oil - olive or canola (sometimes I keep spraying with vegemite & water as well as oil) and put in oven. Check after about 20mins and turn, spray, keep checking, turning and spraying until done. Let cool. Put in airtight container. Voila!

I can't recommend them enough - I've just got Sunny one - she HATES check chains, slip collars and also show collars but she's loving the martingale because it feels like a normal collar for her - I love it because she walks nicely while giving me some sort of correction if she pulls ahead or puts her head down without making me feel like I'm going to decapitate her LOL

I don't know about dogs but I do know that we had to boil barley for the horses before it could be digested properly. I'd steer on the safe side and keep your dog away from it.

It could be that they're not looking at you as leader yet. Try this ... it worked on Sunny ... Take a treat (one of Myskas!) and make sure dog is fully aware of treat. Move it to the side a fraction. As soon as dog looks at you in teh eye click and treat. Do it again, a little bit longer wait and a little bit further out each time until dog knows not to look at the treat but to 'ask permission' from you and also concentrate on you instead. Stack them before feeding and make them wait. Do not let them feed until they've looked at you for permission. HOpe this helps