mavmon

MILBEMYCIN OXIME is a member of the Mectin family & should be avoided by at risk breeds.

Even if the dosage rate was .05mcg per kg - it would not be going anywhere near any of my Collies. Whilst another alternative is available in the daily tablets that is what I will always recommend for any Collie. It was also mentioned years ago that daily tablets would be disappearing .... but they are still here to date & I hope that does not change. We all feed our dogs daily - so get into the routine of giving the dog its tablet with its daily meal, that way a tablet should never be missed

Hi Chezzyr In relation to whether you should re-test or not ..... heartworm is just that. Worms that live in your dogs heart. The treatment for preventing heartworm actually kills the worms. Dead worms then are expelled from the heart & these worms can block or clog up the artery/veins. That could (probably would) kill your Collie. What you need to determine is whether there is a chance that adult worms have had time to develop in that 3 week period. Personally I would be having another blood test done - better to be safe than sorry in my opinion. Find a vet that tests the blood at their own surgery. It is cheaper than one that sends the bloods off to a laboratory for the test. With Drug Sensitivity in Collies (and some other breeds). Firstly, it is not just the mectin family of drugs that some Collies are sensitive to. Unfortunately, it is apparent that a lot of vets are simply not aware of this which is a worry as it is a serious issue. Secondly, whilst it is reported that the toxic reaction to "mectin" drugs only occurs in high doses I believe that it is better to err on the side of caution & therefore I refuse to allow ANY "mectin" drug in any form & any quantity to be administered to my Collies. After all, there are other options available. Only the daily Heartworm preventative should be administered to a Collie. It is cheaper & if you get into a routine with giving the tablet with the dogs daily meal it is also simple. The monthly spot-on Advantage (without the heartworm treatment in it) is the best for fleas.

S~B If you can only get to the tail area each 3 weeks then the only thing you can try is to crutch around the anus. Great description Aili . This would get the hair away from the problem area & hopefully stop poo sticking. Then just tidy up the trimming every 3 weeks to keep it neat. And as Aili said, use blunt edged scissors. Get your mum to hold her if you have trouble with her sitting. A good way to stop them sitting is to cradle one arm under her tummy (just in front of her back legs) & the other arm over her back, then join hands or wrap hands around arms. Obviously dont crush though If I have a difficult one when I am working on the back end this is what I get someone to do for me. I am sorry that I took it you only groomed each 3 weeks, I must learn to read properly

Hi Social~Butterfly Unfortunately, a Collie that has not been trained to lie on its side & be groomed from a youngster can be (sometimes) difficult to groom. He/she hasnt learnt that it is easier for everyone if they do so. I agree with Tess32 though, you can try to teach her now by offering her nibbles whilst you groom. Dont get cross with her, a Collie picks up on you being cross & it often makes them more stubborn It may be a lengthy learning venture though . The "back end" though is often a touchy subject for many dogs. You definately need to groom her more often than each 3 weeks. The ideal is daily or at least every 2nd day (10-15 minutes). You can get away with once a week if need be but it will be a longer grooming session because of that (about half an hour). Ever noticed a female dog after she has "toileted"?? She will immediately sit to clean herself. If she hasnt waited for those last couple of "drops" to fall she will simply "sit them into her hair" - thus those small dried pieces of poo . Males will also suffer this fate - so watch out Tess32 The easiest way to get rid of these nasties is a broad toothed comb. Doesnt hurt them if you do it kindly - just comb it out. Hold her tail upwards whilst you do this. She definately will not like it at first if she hasnt had it done before, but with encouragement & patience she will get used to it. You can also "crutch" her hair from the area if you prefer. Good luck, if you need any more info let me know, am happy to help if I can

This is from another list I am on & relevant to this thread. Thought some may be interested in it. Cheers > Subject: New Vaccine Protocol Accepted by all 27 Vet Schools > > > > NEW!!! VACCINATION PROTOCOL > > by Dr. Jean Dodd > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > All of the 27 Vet > > Universities in the US have > > followed the immunization protocol as suggested by Dr. Dodd for > > years. All of these Hospitals will be changing their Vaccination > > Programs apparently. This is welcome news and you should print this > > out and take > > it with you to your Vet should you need reinforcement against > > over-vaccination. > > > VACCINATION NEWSFLASH [CIMDA support] RE; J DODDS > > VACCINE PROTOCOL > > I would like to make you aware that all 27 > > veterinary > > schools in North America are in the process of changing > > their protocols > > for vaccinating dogs and cats. Some of this information > > will present an > > ethical & economic challenge to Vets, and there will be > > skeptics. Some > > organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting > > vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss > > of income vs. > > those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, > > traditions, or > > the doctors economic well-being should not be a factor in a medical > > decision. > > > > NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY > > Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified > > live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces > > immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (i.e.: canine > > distemper, parvo, > > feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the > > antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens > > of the second > > vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not > > "boosted" nor > > are more memory cells induced. Not only are annual boosters > > for parvo > > and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to > > potential risks of > > allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anemia. > > There is no > > scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual > > administration of MLV vaccines. Puppies receive antibodies > > through their > > mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8 - 14 > > weeks. Puppies & > > kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. > > Maternal immunity > > will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be > > produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the > > timing of the > > first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart > > SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system. A series of > > vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 > > weeks apart up > > to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime > > after 6 months of > > age (usually at l year 4 mo) will provide LIFETIME IMMUNITY.