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Monah

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Posts posted by Monah

  1. I'm going, bringing Lily with me.

    Montu & Gizmo will just be too much trouble as Gizmo will eat anything that comes within 3m of me and Montu just can't be given much attention and honestly, I don't trust people enough to ignore him when I ask :rofl:

    Hi Midol, I'm sorry, can you tell me who and 'breed' Lily, Gizmo and Montu are?? I'm out of the loop :rofl: I'm just bringing Monah, oh , and OH!! But his training is pretty good and he doesn't have any aggression issues :rolleyes:

  2. Agree with Ellz. Puppies learn a huge amount during their developmental period with their littermates. Being a singleton can lead to a dog who has no knowledge of the right way to play or generally interact with and around other dogs. It might for the best part be overcome by a lot of work from the human who would need to arrange for their pup to socialise even far more than what we already need to do now with pups from litters.

    I have seen some reasonably well balanced 'singletons' .... although there has usually been something evident that sets them apart from those who have had the experience of litter mates. I have also seen some dogs who are really messed up by the lack of this experience. I think genetics would form a basis for how well or not the singleton pup would develop (socially speaking), but much of the work is required by the human.

    Have to agree here with Erny.

  3. Well, I've done it!! Booked.Seita is away for the weekend so will finalise when she gets back ( I THINK the girl I spoke to is her) :laugh::rofl:

    We had to wait for work rosters to see what the weekend held, should be OK.

    really looking forward to learning a lot, my training etc. skills are zilch. We will arrive fri night and I'm going to do the whole thing, but still thinking about Sunday, will have to ask OH as if we leave at about 6pm. we wont be home until 11pm or later. Also don't want to need to pull over on the highway for wees in the dark, hate the bruce highway :hug: We'll see, I'd love to stay, but will be flexible :laugh: Anyway, knowing my brain, it will explode due to overload by Sunday :laugh:

  4. Well, I NEVER visit here, it's just so upsetting.

    Teebs, how awful. He was very lovely, great photos. Just a tragic morning for you all. I hope your dad is OK. What a shock to find his boy like that. Please give him my condolences and to you too. I'm very very sorry. :)

    R I P Duke.xxxxxxxx

  5. I have used it before and got mine from a healthfood shop. I use glucasomine and it has been excellent. I was wondering if ester c was the right thing to use so consulted my orthapedic (animal) specialist as I noticed nothing different about my dog whilst using it, and the improvement from gluc. was obvious. Anyway, he told me not to bother, there is no evidence at all that it does anything and he does not advocate it.

  6. OK, pool is 10 metres, I timed the spin today, it takes average of 1 minute to do 2 and half laps inc. step breaks of about 2 seconds while I throw the ball. I used 8 metres as a guide although she often swims around on the way back. So, average 40 metres a minute for 30 minutes = 1200 metres which I downgraded to 1000 for times when the ball did not go as far. The next 30 mins she only did about a lap and half a minute. I did not take notes on that half hour. I did not worry about the viz, my brain hurt :mad The spin has been doing an hour or more swimming every day for around 12 months. less before that. She's very fit and a very very strong swimmer, much more than the viz. She also had enormous paws and webbed feet, so made for swimming. :o It's great as it keeps her weight right down and she's such a pig! :)

  7. My viz and spin swim around an hour a day, pretty much non stop except when on the pool step to bring back a ball. I don't know how long the pool is, but they would swim back and forth (photo) the length of the pool for the whole hour or so, a LONG way, around 60 or more lengths, actually more, it's around a minute up and back, but have to allow for step stops, about 3 or 4 seconds each time. I'll work it out later as now I'm curious :):mad The viz stops when she's had enough and I can tell when the spin is tired, we don't overdo it.

    Often the spin will do another hour on her own, she's a swimaholic :o

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  8. Spotted Devil, I think we are clones of each other :o:cheer::o (or our dogs are!)

    Emmabelle, yes the treats have to be FANTASTIC!! and for my dogs, because we go where there are roos and also on the beach, I HAVE to be confident they will return straight away. So what works for me is calling them and treating every single time, even though they know they have to come. When we first taught them to come from very long distances,(just remembered!), one of the kids would walk off while I walked slowly with the dogs, then when he/she was very far off, they would call the dog very excitedly and the dog would go flat out to get to them,(I say OFF YOU GO!!) then treated and I would call the dog back and treat, so the dog was going back and forth between us. We still do this as a game, but it really worked very quickly to get a good recall, and at least there is someone each end if the worse happens!! I always say YAY!!!! good come etc and also pat as well as treat, just in case i run out of treats sometime and have to pat instead. Coming to YOU has to be the best thing ever, even if you are boiling over with frustration, still be all happy and treat the dog.

    You may already do all this, so sorry if it's useless info. Good luck!

  9. :o I really feel for you too!! GSPs are FANTASTIC dogs, very very intelligent. he sounds adorable. I really hope you find a way to keep him in, awkward when renting. Even though you are not supossed to have him in, is there just one room in the house you can have him instead of outside? We have cleared aroom right out completely,except for dog crates and ours are in there when we are out etc. I understand it's a difficult situation.

    With the recall, all I can suggest is treats treat treats. I wear one of those dorky bum bags FULL of great stuff, roast beef etc. and even when we are out off lead, my dogs come back every minute or so to get a treat, I just tell them to give me their paw or something if I haven't called them, so they ALWAYS associate coming to me with something really good. So far, with my latest 2 pups who are now nearly 3 and nearly 2, I haven't had a single off lead problem.

    BUT, I thoroughly understand every dog is different. I agree with special trainer and training. it really really does help. I'm sure your boy has it in him to be incredible, someone just needs to work out how to get the best out of him. Does he like a tug rope toy? I've seen many dogs do anything for a 'game', but they only get the tuggie when they have done something correct, as with a treat, not just a game any old time. Good luck, I really wish you well :cheer:

    Also, there is a GSP breed page thread on DOL, top of General, the breeders and owners on there may be able to give you some advice relevant to GSPS!!

  10. Hi LukeW

    I missed that you are wanting to get the dog to stand from a sitting position. What about teaching a stand from a walk first (to teach the command first) then when he understands what "stand" is..........move to a sitting postion.

    A NRM used in an incorrect tone by a newbie can have negative effects on a young dog, but IMO the learning is accelerated, and has no ill effects if used properly, and if you know what to look for in regards to stress in your dog. Just try again ten minutes later. Make sure the pup is hungry.

    If I saw learning stress in my pup (now 10 months old), I would immediately ask her to do something quick and simple that she was good at, ....reward in spades, then try again ten minutes later. I only had to do this when I was teaching her how to find heel.

    Hi LukeW, I agree with this, I think your pup is still quite young? For me, it's much easier if the dog walks to heel , then you pass your hand in front of his face and say staaaaaannnnnnd. Once they get the hang of what stand means, you can go onto more difficult things such as sit to stand. If he does not appear to know what 'stand' is, teaching sit to stand will be VERY difficult :eek: I also use a clicker but as a 'marker' not a release. I click the second my dogs 'get' what is asked of them, then treat, then I may even wait a few seconds until I release with a happy OK. I've used this for agility and flyball as it's hard sometimes to mark behaviour properly when they are doing things quickly. Maybe (if you are not already) you could click and reward the second he stands from a sit, very fast before he gets silly etc., then treat. Once he knows that standing up = treat, and he does it, then you can name the behaviour 'stand', Good boy!! Good stand etc. I do however think learning stand from heel to start with so he understands just what stand is may make life easier for you. Good luck, he's just adorable!!! :laugh:

  11. You poor thing!! Have you seen a specialist??? although your vet may be very experienced, it is eesential to see a specialist in this area of health. I see one on the sunny coast, so no good for you, he's amazing. We swim our dog twice a day for around an hour a time, or less depending on our schedule, also use the gluc/condontrin etc. I've been told not to bother with Ester C . We also keep our dogs weight around 14 kg lighter than others of the breed, only 10 min walks and a quick off lead run. Please see someone expert before you make a decision. Our dog has improved 100% since last year, although xrays show no difference at all, my specialist does not bother too much with xrays except to diagnose properly, he goes more by how the dog looks and walks and flexibilty etc. Go the whole hog and then, if it is inevitable (pts) at least you know you have done everything poss. I'm not going with surgery as we don't need to ATM and there are no guarantees, but, have you considered it? I do know of several people who have had it done, hip replacements, elbows etc. and it has worked very well, but an ethical orthapedic specialist will tell you it can be a big IF, good recovery etc. I hope you are OK, such a shame :)

    Myofunctional therapy and massage etc can also work wonders!

  12. Awww. He is SOOOOOO adorable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Everyone has given fantastic advice. Nothing new to add really, just that he is really gorgeous!!!

    It really boils down to persistence. You have to catch him before he goes. When we toilet train, I keep the trainee :rofl: in one room, say if we are watching TV. well in there with us, and we WATCH constantly, even if the dog starts to sniff or look uncomfortable it is whipped outside quickly, then we say DO WEES, until the dog goes, even if it takes 20 mins., then as soon as it starts to go say YES!!!! good boy!!! Yay. :laugh: so they really get the point. This can take 2 weeks or 3 months!! depending on the dog. With smaller dogs it can take longer, I'm guessing because of such small bladders they cannot 'hold' at all esp. when puppies. Eventually he should at least get to the door that he goes out of to go to toilet, and this will show he is getting the idea. Even if he has already gone, immediately get him out the door so he may make a connection with getting outside. all dogs seem to be different with training, you just have to find what works for him. There really is no point at all telling off after the event, the pup has NO idea what you are talking about at all, just quietly clean up and try to be more vigilant next time. Also, son't expect him to go just because he's outside, he may think he's out there to have fun, get indoors and then he goes. Just stay and watch him UNTIL he does something, then praise.Good luck, he is so lovely, what a cutie :rofl::rofl:

  13. I have just got a Westie, so will be learning how to handstrip, he is only 9 weeks old and the coat isnt ready to come out yet... ive been told that at about 16 weeks he will be ready to fully strip, then I can work on it week to week as it comes back to make it look the way it should.

    Oh and the dane 'stripping' I have done this when I have noticed my mums bitchs coat dying, she gets dull spots, so I pull it all out, the same coudl be done for a staffy I guess

    Its going to be lots of fun learning..

    Yes, LOTS of fun :):eek::thumbsup: ;) .

    Becks, POODLE!! I would love a poodle :) see, if he were stripped, he would look like he's supposed to, naughty me!!!

  14. :rofl: stripping. My Lakeland in pic below, with malt and ACD, is NOT stripped in the photo!! He looks like a big fluff ball :) So after Lakelands and Wolfhounds!!! I have a Spinone!!!!!!!!!!!!! anyone would think I LOVE stripping (dogs that is :rofl: (). I do not show and am pretty lazy, so I use disposable rubber gloves that grip the hair easily. I strip every morning when I have my outside coffees with the dogs, so she usually looks pretty 'hit and miss', but cute all the same :thumbsup: God, almost forgot, also had giant schnauzers :eek: I must be bloody crazy, don't answer that! :(
  15. OOps. Just to add, if the cat has been coughing for an extended period it may not have anything to do with 'hairballs' as the cat should have vomited these up at different times and then no coughing for a long time. If hairballs are not vomited up, the cat would be constipated and very ill after such a long time. Do you have a litter tray? can you check the cat's toilet??

    Again, please see a vet.

  16. Hi, Please see a vet ASAP. Cats have very small and vulnerable organs, any coughing etc. should be thoroughly investigated immediately. No one can 'guess' what it could be I'm afraid. It could even be lung cancer, worms, hairballs, throat tumour etc. I have trouble thinking it is food related. Please just find out for sure, even though the cat 'only has a cough and is HEALTHY otherwise', that actually means it is UNHEALTHY and something is wrong. It is in no way normal for any animal to have an ongoing cough. :):(

  17. The crate is a good idea, even if you are at home, just for short periods, maybe for a nap etc. Please do not ever use the crate as as 'punishment', eg. when he's 'naughty' tell him off and put him in there. It is a pleasant place for him, his very own little spot. Mine really do love their crates and go there every night at 9.30pm whether I'm ready to go to bed or not! :mad Really, if you are home, try just having him with you all the time so you can watch him, if you are showering or something, put him in his crate with a treat and he will get used to going in there. Perseverance really does pay off eventually, although it can seem like forever :rolleyes: :confused: Please do not ever smack, he may end up not trusting you at all, and that's no good for either of you.

  18. Yes, just a baby!! I agree with keeping the pup safe and secure, a crate is handy. Mine still sleep in their crates and when I am not home, they are in 'their' room which is empty except for their crates, door closed, can't get out. The human has to be responsible and just keep everything out of the dog's way, or the dog out of the way when unsupervised. I'm a big believer of Out of sight = IN trouble. I've never smacked a dog, but have let out a loud NO!!! which tends to distract them quickly, then you just put their attention elsewhere. (In theory :rofl: ).Spotted devil, I thoroughly agree, I spent over 2 years doing the same, with 2 pups 12 months apart (yes, CRAZY), and still cannot trust the younger one, Basically it's up to us. :o

  19. :) Sorry, just such a funny story!! I've never competed, I KNOW it would turn into a disaster :cheer: But I can relate. We were doing a flyball demo in front of the whole bloody town, with celebrities specially brought in and tv cameras, when my viz decided to take her ball :thumbsup: from the box and show it to my spin who was outside the barrier, then she came back in and continued over the jumps like nothing happened :rofl::cheer::thumbsup::thumbsup::cheers:
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