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I tried google and nothing came up ..wierd!

Who is she? And where do I find some more info? Website?

Use the triangle of temptation from K9 , posted at the top. And also don't make a fuss when you arrive home or leave. As I rule I NEVER NEVER say goodbye to my dogs, I just leave. Otherwise you are providing a cue to your dog that will let him know you are going , likewise when you arrive home do not make a fuss as you can reinforce to the dog that ALL IS OK NOW because mum and dad are home, strengthening the dogs feeling that it is bad when you are not around. Finally stop mothering the dog , give him some space and ignore him when you are at home everynow and then. When mine were pups I would just ignore them for ages at a time to teach them to be on their own especially in a family where owners go to work etc. I know it is hard to stop playing with puppies but it is important IMO. - this does not mean neglect your dogs, just give them some space. If you don't nip this in the backside it will turn into a nightmare.

no real reason, just never have except to fine tune a particular action. It is a bit like my ace in the pocket I am not closed minded to it.

I know where they are, I was just interested in knowing where the Dolers go so I will know someone when I go. It wont be for a while however.

That is why I asked as I too don't like the food reward aspect. I went down a couple of times to watch at Narrabeen.

Where do the Sydney Agility DOL'ers go to do agility? How old is too old for a dog to start?

In my opinion this is a great program to use. If you don't use it you are doing a disservice to yourself and your dog I used it with only one of my dogs due to outside reasons, and the one I used it on displayed the the most respect and he was very head strong.

IMO exactly! no confusion, inside is for sleeping and hanging out with his best mate! Outside is for going nuts.

Fast = outside sleep = Crate In between = inside hanging out with boss You need to get the dog to learn running in the house is not acceptable. I try and teach my dogs that even getting into second gear = go outside without me i.e not rewarding it. I use "slow down' as the command, if you notice a marked difference in speed :-) then give praise for the first couple of times it only has be a notch slower if no reponse dog is picked up and put outside. Nothing said and no attention just a straight pick up and walk out side and shut the door, 5 mins later dog let back in to repeat process. I had two staffies under 12 months old who knew in no uncertain terms to be calm inside and for the most part they were. also I never let them play around with each other inside so there is no confusion to what is allowed in the house.

Drop K9 force an email, you need to be aware of the difference in agression and competitive play. It is during this early period that you get the dog you want. The time you put into learning about training methods etc will be well spent. I highly reccommend using the TOT for the very simple reason that it teaches the dog to tie out and not carry on like a pork chop and will help teach the dog that YOU provide all the enjoyment in his world, not others andnot other dogs. The idea is that he never gets the toy to take away and "attack" you are to use it as a reward - the game is the reward. It has nothing to do with agility or getting a working dog, just another way to reward the dog, no different to giving a treat when your dog obeys a command. You give him a game of tug for 5 secs as the reward. Much easier keeping a small tug toy in your pocket than a pocket full of nibbles.

IMO if your dog is displaying a high level of prey drive you may as well use it, or you may end up with problems down the track as you try and suppress it. The dog will find other ways to satisfy its desire for drive. Chewing stuff, chasing stuff or just being a pain in the back side from frustration Just my view Roo

IMO you have a winner here, a perfect dog to train in prey drive. It would be well worth your time and effort to at least drop either Steve at K9 an email or one of the other trainers that frequent this forum. Steve is the guy who wrote the triangle of temptation (posted at the very top of the training forum) I have done a few one on one sessions with him and they were well worth the money. Basically the thing to do at this early stage is to 'control' the game, let the dog tug (but don't throw the toy away first - you don't want the retrieving bit becoming the reward) get the dog to tug using a command then stop it by letting the toy go limp and providing a command i.e 'enough' (still holding it) once the dog relaxes and realises the game has stopped he will let go at this stage you restart it. The end result over time is a dog who sees the tug or the toy in action as the reward for doing something. It is similar to seeing the focus a dog has with its owner who is throwing a ball. This is the very quick and dirty outline as I don't have much time this morning. Cheers Roo ETA; Stop with the food treat ASAP. You want the dog to see the game of tug as his reward. If you use both you will be training in food drive and prey drive, it will more than likely end up with confusion. The dog will do something thinking he will be getting 'paid' and if he is expecting food and you give him a tug or vice versa then he will be unsure what the pay off is and will be unsure whether he can be bothered or not. The key is to ensure the dog is very clear what the reward is.

You seriously expect me to believe a staffy 'just' stopped doing something......... you sure Daisy ain't broken?

Ask Emmark nicely if you can have one of her upcoming pups.... I have one...2nd best dog ever. (Don't ask why she is the second best dog) Today we were out and about all day and she was so relaxed and happy to be cruising around. She is the black girl in my sign pic

That about sums it up!

Put pup in crate and DO NOT let out until the pup has settled. END OF STORY No letting the pup on your bed, no feeling sorry for the pup, no wondering if the pup will feel left out because another dog gets to walk around the house. The job of a leader is to be firm but fair. Be very careful what you are inadvertingly teaching what can be a very stubborn breed. You are the boss!!! Start acting like one Your dog does not live in a democracy! Also now that you probably sewn some minor bad habits read this http://wik.ed.uiuc.edu/index.php/Extinction If someone's gained some reward every time for a particular behavior, the behavior will persist. If suddenly the reward stops coming, it's likely that the person or animal will not immediately give up the behavior. Instead, they'll try it again and again, harder, faster, more emphatically. It's a burst of activity. If the reward still doesn't come, eventually the behavior will extinguish, or become extinct. So, the burst of behavior before extinction of the behavior is called an "extinction burst". My favorite example is the elevator button. Let's say you ride the same elevator every day. You get in, you push the button for your floor, and you're rewarded by the doors closing and the elevator taking you to your destination. One day you get in and push the button, and nothing happens. Do you immediately say, "Oh, this must not work anymore, I'll just take the stairs to the 11th floor"? Or do you push the button again? And again? And harder? And faster? And in special sequences? That's the extinction burst.

You also need to keep in mind ,your dog doesn't get a choice. Don't muck around too much, just be firm and straight to the point , hold him, stick the lead on and go walking. you are the boss. ( this doesn't mean be mean to the dog)

As everyone else has stated feed separatly. Another thing, make sure the dogs know you are the leader. You should be able to take the bone from your dogs mouth with no fuss, you need to work on this and/to ensure the dog respects you and understand their position in the pack....at the bottom! And it ain't a democratic pack.

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101 The above link is the answer to you problems.

Yep, get out there and play in it. Don't pander to any fear/ doubts etc. You are the pack leader, the dog should take his/her cues from you. Don't change your voice tone or anything, just business as usual. When Erik was still very young, a storm started while I was out, as soon as it did I rang the wife and told her to get Erik out in it chasing a ball, stick whatever. Roll around in the grass etc.

and remember that when you take pooch out at night for toilet, there should be no playing. Off to toilet ( on lead) and good verbal reward then back in bed. The other trick is to not take the dog out of the crate straight away in the mornings i.e walk past it a couple of times. That way the dog doesn't see you as the 'cue' that s/he will be let out. A final hint do not succumb to letting your dog out when they wake up in the morning. Both my dogs stay sleeping till I get up, not the other way around

Not much to add, just giving moral support. Keep at it My staffy was a nightmare to toilet train, I honestly was starting to think he would never get it. But he did.

you need to get an intermediate size. Depending on the brand approx 76cm long X 53 cm wide X 61cm high. I have two different brands and they are slightly different dimensions but close enough. You may be able to go a little smaller seeing as you are getting a girl again depending on the size steps the brand uses