Vehs

I spray with disinfectant, wipe off and then oil them.

My boy is very food motivated and has a high prey drive. Another girl Shep at training was not the least bit interested in food and at the beginners level the club was very focused on using food - she was also not that interested in toys either, but this would be the next option. Try getting a 'special' toy that the dog places a high value on interacting with, I am now using a special tinkle ball (bell ball) for my dog because he can hear when the ball is out and knows exactly what he is going to get when he finishes whatever routine I've cooked up for him. This toy only comes out for training and once he's had his play with it goes back in the reward bag, so he doesn't get free reign with it. The down side to using the ball as opposed to a tug toy (which he also has) is that the ball is thrown for his reward so he's not interacting with me as he would with a tug toy. I stopped using the tug toy because the one I have is too big and cumbersome to practice heelwork and agility with ;)

uhm.. :D If your dog waits or drops it slows down the momentum, if they can run down, do their touch then they've reached the last colour point on the obstacle and can move on. eta: handler catching up is just not on the cards

heh, I'm not even going to touch the time question after the PMs I got last time! :smurf: but My shop works on a flat fee for dog sizes and doesn't take the condition or the behaviour of the dog into account (if I had my own place I would, and I would charge by time taken) some contract groomers might charge double if it took them twice as long as they thought it would. Also be aware if you are booking your dog into a shop while it may only take the groomer x ( ) amount of time, the dog maybe their a lot longer. I think little dogs just aren't used to having the legs handled as much, also some people can pick the legs up in the wrong manner so it is uncomfortable for the dog. It's a bit of a contradiction as you'd think many little dogs would get picked up and cuddled more than bigger dogs and thus be used to a lot of handling where as bigger dogs might just get a stroke down the back, but I can't think of a bigger dog that has hated having their legs done

hrm, where did my reply from last night go? nayway I was saying that if it's the cutting blade that broke you can try replacing that part with another cutting blade.

Would German Shepherds be okay? I am definately interested in giving Dieter a go with some sheep.... it is on Mum's Birthday weekend, but I'm keen to not be here for that. Is there a cut off date for registering PM?

It does, but so does regular nail cutting without harming the quick I just want to re explain my earlier statement - as I do NOT advocate cutting quicks, but when the nail is curved under the pad and cutting into it then you HAVE to cut the quick so the dog can walk properly and in this case get the vets to do it. I'm sure you understood me the first time Susan, but maybe some other readers didn't.

Well at least you had confirmation that it was the glass causing the problems. Back to plastic tumblers for you BMP... I'm relieved she's okay, but this is just another cross against your name and another tick against mine for me to own her

We see awful dog nails all the time, and even with good nails a lot of dogs are averse to having their feet handled. Look, by all means have the dog muzzled and if possible have someone else hold the dog. A old co worker would bring her Chi in EVERY week for me to do the nails, and EVERY week I would take off A LOT of nail - they just grew, and grew! The dog was also extremely vicious with getting it's nails done She'd hold it with a muzzle and a towel For breeds that are more inclined to get curved nails, like Cavs, I use a regular plier clipper and then tidy up close to the paw pad with a cat nail clipper, they are smaller and it is easier to touch up with these. The other thing is the nails are so long that the quick is long so in order to get the nails under control you really need to cut the quick - in which case it is a vet job because it is cruel.

The feeding looks good to me, but that's not to say you boy isn't allergic to some thing you are adding. Does he wear a jacket/coat at all that could be rubbing him? Different bedding or laundry detergent? Is your other dog affected at all? If he is licking the area a lot I would take him to the vet to check out the reddness

- so you did? Not to worry, they will definately grow back. We have some owners that are particularily fussy about the eyelashes, they want the brow/fringe trimmed but not the eyelashes. So I hold the eye lashes down with one hand and scissor the fringe with the other. Next time you can leave them or trim them again. Maybe the groomer misunderstood you and thought the whole dog was matted. I generally use a #10 only for the groin area and under the armpits if needed. For the body we get a lot of doodle owners requesting a #3 / #4 clip, because this does leave a little length so they can look 'scruffy'. But if you are worried about ticks in summer go for a #7, it will always grown back. eta: just adding more info to PFs comments a #40 is the shortest blade and is used before surgerys on dogs to clear the hair #10 for groins (the others; 8, 7, 5, 4) #3 is currently the longest of the blades and although I should know the length off the top of my head I'm going to say it's about an inch long dog blade sizes work in reverse to human blade sizing.

Agree with what others have said - add some offal and sardines

rather than getting others to do your assignment, let google do it! :D

oh no That is Coco's twin :D

Can't actually help you with the flea issue, but with regards to the nails - you haven't been looking hard enough! You can find nail clippers like this in basically every pet store and even at the pet section in Big W - this picture is from petnetwork.com.au

Fantastic Let us know how it goes!

thank god they were at the vets - poor things

RIP little fella

Hey Dru, I noticed when you started posting more recently that Victoria was in your sig and I was thinking about her getting on. So sorry to hear about this

I have been grooming for about 4 years now and I agree with others that say getting a job at a salon is the way to go when starting out. Although there are a few grooming schools around nowadays working in a salon gives you a better feel for the job. The grooming schools give you the instructions and a whole day to do one dog. A salon environment is more realistic and will help you decide if this is a career you want to invest in - and if you aren't learning at the speed you would like you can then take a course. In a salon you get to deal with the customers (interpretation is a very good skill to have and a customer service background is good too), figure out what they want and then have to work to deadlines with the dogs. We've had a lot of people come through the shops I've worked at and not to scare them during the training, but to prepare them, I let them know all the awful things you have to see and the mess you have to deal with from places all over the dogs - skin ulcers, awful breath, revolting eyes, and of course the pee, poo and anal glands. As a newbie you will probably start with a lot of bathing and drying - key skills though, a lot of people I've worked with stopped before they could wash a dog properly ;) The neglect you deal with is just astounding and that part of it can be rewarding when you can make a dog more comfortable and actually educate the owners (til your blue in the face sometimes) - I love my regular clients! I reckon the months leading up to summer would be a good time to ask around salons for a few days work - that way you can suggest they train you up on the basics before the summer season comes and their shop in inundated with work - we are really busy this winter (for some reason) so I am dreading summer!! If you do a search you will come across another topic - I think focused on pay rates for people in the animal industry - pay is sh!t I think you should start as a newbie on an hourly wage and then negoiate to make 50% on each dog you do with the owner, if they don't like it try and find a shop that will work this way and then get some $ together to start up your own business and sell a bit of retail on the side. I was really looking forward to moving out of Canberra (with another job) and starting a little grooming business in Wollongong - still waiting to see what happens.

heh, Dieter has a wide variety of imported doggie colognes If you get yours bathed by Aussie Pooch mobile ask them if you can buy their lavender spray - I LOVE it, and it really does last because I have washed a few ex Aussie pooch dogs and you can smell it on them when you are washing them (months later)

well done! Would love to see some before and after shots, but you may not have them

glad it's not too serious

Gail So sorry to hear about this I was going to call you, but thought you might like to be alone.

hrm with my cat's kidneys it was determined by a blood test Don't get yourself too worried, just wait for a diagnosis to be sure