Vehs

poor little munchkin - hope he comes up good!

My Shep mostly gets ckn bones and roo mince - I think he's doing pretty well I do know that some dogs find it too rich and get the runs

don't forget to get it sharpened

you are right PF! and now I am confuzzled because we (dolers / groomers) always recommend them as non shedding, but if they have a double coat then they shed the undercoat so how are these dogs any better to other shedder dogs for allergies? although I am finding conflicted info if they shed properly.....

as I said people think a brand new blade is sharp and it often isn't - get it sharpened. however a #10 blade is very short, it's what I would use around the bum and groin of a dog, you'd be better off trimming the body with a # 4

Yes your dog isn't double coated, it's a non shedding coat/wool I think your blade is blunt, people mistakenly think that new blades don't require sharpening and they generally do - get the blade sharpened and then see how you go. what number (determine the length of hair left) blades have you got?

I have used bicarb on Jibs teeth with a human toothbrush and a ckn flavoured one was grooming an older lab that had WONDERFUL teeth, and he only got dry food biscuits!!

moving the treat or target away quickly so he doesn't have time to put his butt down? then gradually increase the time? you could also put a stick near his belly so he doesn't bring it down :lol:

I don't have the matt zapper but I do have other les pooch brushes and they are excellent mine were given to me by a groomer in the US a few years ago but I'm sure you can find an aussie distributer

Thank god he's alright!

No, I have that problem when I am trying to do a puzzle....

I condition the D (Shepherd) as it helps when he is shedding for the undercoat to come out easier, he soaks in it for at least 5min

black ones aren't so bad, but you might be able to give the dew claw (thumb) a bit of a trim, as it's a white nail just make sure you cut before the pink bit otherwise it'll bleed

no GSDs trialling? I guess they had to pull out because they just kept winning

I clip the little v shape in the paw (between the main pad and toes) because it seems cockers and cavs are prone to getting knots and gunk stuck in there, I also trim the hair, as luke said, flush with the paw to stop them sliding. If they have really hairy top feet, and you like the look of short hair, you can trim that as well.

I used to not be able to cope with out a frame and then I worked with another groomer who showed me a variety of holds and now I just find they get in the way - of course I usually work with other ppl who can hold difficult dogs for me. If I was the OP and grooming alone having a belly sling and neck loop would help.

ahh... maybe a beardie cross? Are you brushing him with a slicker and comb?

hmm I couldn't get the photos to work, sorry - what kind of dog is he? eta: I can kind of see him in your profile, I don't see much problem with trimming him but be aware if you do cut it and then think he is getting cold and put a jumper on him that his type of fur will probably knot faster under the jumper and will need to be brushed daily. Adelaide is not too cold, you might get away with throwing a few more blankets in his kennel ;)

You can train happy dogs to growl etc and happy dogs to act happier, but if a dog is very scared nervous in an environment and you wanted it to act happy you might have a bit of trouble getting it to comply When you watch inspector rex, no matter what the scene or music is telling you feel you can always see how damn happy the dogs they use are My Shep doesn't play bow, I am teaching him (well actually taught, he learnt in all of 10min last night) now I want to take him to a dog park and tell him to do it and see if other dogs will play with him for a change I think other dogs would believe him, even if it was 'fake' because dogs act strange around huski even when the huski is playful because they can't get past the hair

I would take her into the vet for a thyroid check

they can be stitched, there have been a few threads about cut paws do a search if it's not still bleeding then you might get away with bandaging and keeping it clean

people in the household need to be consistent with whatever you chose, here are my commands: drop = lay down give = let go of that object with stay the important thing is to not progress too quickly, you want to build a solid stay for time and distance away from you (don't increase time and distance at the same time ie. don't move one meter futher away and get the dog to stay 20 seconds longer in the same instance) you probably want to start with the dog sitting and you standing close (but not intimidatingly) in front of her and just waiting for 10secs and rewarding her while she is still still ... as you progress in time and distance try and get savvy to what her 'breaking' behaviour might be so you can approach and reward her before she breaks, it could looking around, moving her feet etc others may have different techniques, have you thought about joining a puppy class?

tee hee, she is eternally cute! she must be nearly 4... 3?