laffi

I had a look at these and they say they don't ship oversees Even if they did, I would think that the shipping costs would be very high unless you buy in bulk or wholesale.

Has anyone bought tunnels from www.airdogs.com.au? Are they durable/long lasting?

How are you brining a bag over, if you don't mind me asking? Are you planning to sell it as well? Thanks!

I totally agree with Red Mal. Dry food is (much much) better than can food. If you don't want to feed him commercial dog food you can look into BARF diet (just do a search).

I got my L size Kong in Big W for $15. It's going to last for years so it's definitely a good investment :cool:

I would also suggest to do some training with her to stimulate her mentally.

Does she play with her toys? Mine take about 5min to get out kibble out of her Kong, but if I freeze it with some mince inside it can take her hours Marrow bones are good too for chewing (not too often though because of the fat content). I give it once or twice a week.

As you said, she does it because she is bored. It's OK for a while but can become a compulsive behavior. Does she have any interactive toys to play with (Kongs with food inside for example)?

Check out this website http://www.ttouch.com/

That's true, I would definitely need to know if my dogs like the food and the price of it. Please keep me updated as I will definitely would like to potentially become a regular. BTW I have to large breed dogs and two cats and would be ordering food for all 4 of them.

I was thinking about having multi options .. But than I thought this one would be just be a guidance to see how many people are interested in the initial stage. Later we can discuss in more details what and how order it with Ane. ETA I would be interested in any of these for example

If you are inretested in any of these, please contact Ane and see http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=109765

I would be interested in Flint River Ranch Premium Fish & Chip. Also how come you want to get Flint River Ranch (which I agree is a great food) as opposed to GO, Orijen, Timberwolf Organics or Canidae (which I think are even better)?

Eh?? I am sending you a few DVDs, on loan aren't I? :mad yes you are! I will ask more questions once I watch them Laffi's retrieving carrier is in your hands

Thank you Lablover. I have seen a retrieving trial but wouldn't know how to start the training myself. So how would you go about starting the training? And books, DVDs etc you could recommend, and the order to do it in?

As the title says: Has anyone tried TTOUCH? Does it work?

I want to start retrieving training (for trials) with my golden retriever and I am looking into buying some books. James Spencer's books look pretty good. I am looking at: - RETRIEVER TRAINING DRILLS FOR MARKING - RETRIEVER TRAINING DRILLS FOR BLIND RETRIEVES - TRAINING RETRIEVERS FOR MARSHES & MEADOWS - RETRIEVER TRAINING TESTS Are they all complementary? TRAINING RETRIEVERS FOR MARSHES & MEADOWS seems like a shortened version of RETRIEVER TRAINING DRILLS FOR MARKING and RETRIEVER TRAINING DRILLS FOR BLIND RETRIEVES. Is this the case? Which ones would you recommend? Are there any other books you can recommend?

When I lived in US I fed my dog Flint River Ranch. My friends use it too. I think it's EXCELLENT food. Let me know how you go with your import. I would definitely be interested in buying it here.

Turkey necks, turkey wings would be the best option (chicken necks as well but only if he can't swallow them whole) Marrow bones are great but not very often due to high fat content.

*waiting to LP to reply* In the meantime I can say that I know she shaped it with a clicker and it took quite a bit for Leo to put them on. Talking about the Quoit sets, does anyone know where can I get a wooden one (with wooden rings)?

Yes - if he has a problem with you opening/handling his mouth, then you start there. Once you've got it to some semblance of control, then start introducing him to other people being able to handle him. If his problem is having your hand over his nose, then start stimply by putting your hand over his muzzle, "click" and treat. Repeat until he isn't worried about this - very quickly it will become a cue to good things (ie treat). Then proceed to the next step. Erny, what is the purpose of the clicker in these exercises?

I don't think there is such a thing as "the best" method. I use clicker training because my dogs are responsive to it. Both of the methods you mentioned rely on simple principles of how dogs learn: - you provide a positive stimulus for a desired action and the probability of the dog to repeat the action is going to increase. Example: dog sits, you give a treat, dog will try to sit again - you provide a negative stimulus for an undesired action and the probability of the dog to repeat this action is going to decrease. Example: dog pulls, you use the check chain, dog will try to avoid the jerk and stop pulling

Oh NO!!! that's so unlucky!

Note that if a product uses citric acid as a preservative it should not be moistened prior to feeding (raises the risk of bloat in large breed dogs).

Definitely (if the backyard is doggyproof).