laffi

I am having problems with my dogs spinning around when I am trying to teach them how to execute a rear cross. How do you teach it? Thanks!

If I were you, I would do more research about dog foods, raw diets, and 'balanced diets'. Also learn what it the difference between puppy and adult food. I would not add anything like Nutigel or Pericathin but solve the diet problems first. A healthy puppy will not starve itself, so pick a diet and stick to it (without adding anything extra to it, like Nutrigel or whatever). One thing I am sure about is that adding raw chicken wings will definitely help with his anal glands problems.

I would post it in the general forum.

Awesome ! Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My golden had heaps of ear problems as well. She is on raw diet now and is much better but this really helped as well: http://www.herbal-treatments.com/dog_funga..._infection.html if it's a fungal infection you are dealing with (which was our case) or: http://www.herbal-treatments.com/dog_chron..._infection.html

have a look at http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=140880

Usually with mixed breeds it's very hard to tell how big they will be. I actually don't follow the amount suggested by the manufacturers. I only start off with the suggested amount and then adjust to make sure they are not gaining or loosing weight. So maybe you should give him what the package suggests for a 20 or 25kg dog and see how you go.

Sorry I am confused. You are going to add sweet potato and pumpkin to increase his weight? I think it works in the opposite way usually because dogs can't digest veggies or fruits nowhere near as well as they can digest meat.

I agree with what was posted before. Rather than worry about the carrot to pumpkin ratio I would rather research the meat to bone ratios, as well as how much offal you should be adding. It varies a little depending on which diet you follow (BARF vs prey model for example) so it's good to read about it all.

Yep, and the most obvious examples of that and sometimes the most glaring training omissions are establishing a reliable wait and a recall from distraction. You don't jump a horse until it's fully physically mature or until you have established control on the flat. It's something that some members of the agility community could learn from. I agree. People think that agility is all about the obstacles, but really teaching the obstacles is the easiest part. Handling and distance work are so much harder and have to be based on solid foundations.

One of these beasties. It's often the most challenging obstacle for beginner large dogs. Problem with teaching obstacles on lead (apart from inadvertent corrections) is that it doesn't teach the dog any independence from you. Even at the beginner level, you want to dog to come to you and go away from you over obstacles ASAP. You really don't want to have to hug the obstacle at all. I totally agree I would never teach my dogs any agility obstacles with the leash on. I spend a lot of time making sure they can work off leash before I start any obstacle training.

How old is your dog? Do you know when was his last vaccination? I wouldn't vaccinate a dog with a compromised immune system (like a dog on antibiotics). You definitely can wait until he recovers to vaccinate.

Thanks everybody :rolleyes:

I was wondering if anyone read and would recommend these books: http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DTB880 http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DTB1020 Thanks!

My cat also didn't like it the first time but after two or three times she got to love it.

yes, the cat version is great my cat is loving it and doing great on it

I have two snooza raised beds L and XL. My golden retiever girl prefers the L one (more cosy I think ) I also have snooza futons and snooza cuddler, the latter is the greatest hit :D

Mines are mostly on raw + Orijen (used as treats)

Hmmmm I think the diet suggested by the breeder is more balanced than what you decided to feed. Totally agree with you huski, puppy milk isn't very nutritous. I only would use it as a treat, if ever. This is an excellent advice. Untill you learn more about making up your own diet it's better to stick to some super premium quality foods.

I am sorry but I you are mistaken on several levels: 1) Orijen is about 40% protein, not 70%. 2) 70% you are referring to is meat, which sounds about right because dogs are carnivores 3) the 25% IS NOT the list you have since the Orijen Adult ingredients are: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, turkey meal, russet potato, lake whitefish, chicken fat, sweet potato, whole eggs, turkey, salmon meal, salmon and anchovy oils, salmon, natural chicken flavour, sunflower oil, sun-cured alfalfa, dried brown kelp, carrots, spinach, peas, tomatoes, apples, psyllium, dulse, glucosamine Hcl, cranberries, black currants, rosemary extract, chondroitin sulfate, sea salt. Which means that the 30% vegetables are mostly russet potatoes and sweet potatoes. 4) Cat food is not harmful for dogs. It's the dog food that is harmful for cats as it does not contain enough taurine that the cats cannot make themselves, as opposed to dogs. 5) There is no scientific evidence for kidney problems resulting from high protein meat based foods. There is however evidence that high protein grain foods can be harmful for kidneys. Orijen does not contain any grains. Back to the OP. It's possible that Orijen does not agree with your dog. However if you feed her in the morning and she is throwing up in the evening, after she has already digested her food, there might be other reasons. For example you might need to feed her twice a day or something else is going on.

Is this what the breeder recommended?

Did you end up going yesterday ridgeback-lover? I was there with my two but it was very busy.

In regards to the first sentence above, I have taught my dog that the click doesn't end the behaviour, all it does is mark that the dog has done the right thing & I have taught him to work through the click & to keep going with whatever he's doing. This builds drive & in my dancing I can give him a single signal or verbal command & he will just keep repeating it until I tell him to do something else (or stop him to reward him). Because he is keen for the reward his drive improved ten fold since I have taught him to work through the clicker (& it was pretty good before!). This is very interesting. How did you teach him to work through the clicker?

would you mind PMing me the name of the seller, please? THANKS! ETA Never mind I found it! THANKS!

looks awesome!!!! where did you get it from?