laffi

Well you have to reward after a click so you will change the pace to reward (whether a food or toy or pat) anyway. But clickers are great to mark the right behavior so the teaching process goes faster (unless of course your timing is wrong and you just confuse your dog). There is no such a thing as wrong clicker ... I think they are more of a personal preference. I really like i-clickers because they fit in nicely in your hand

Be careful with your body language. Right now he stops on 2o2o because you physically stop him from moving by standing in front of him. Try the same exercise with him on your sides (both right and left). Or you can try shaping where you don't move at all and just C&T for going straight on the board and then C&T for putting the front paws on the ground. Also when you release him from 2o2o release him forward from the board (don't turn so fast as he still is on the board when you are walking away from it to start a new round). Other than that, it looks great! He is definitely loving his C&T

According to SG it's good because it means they are learning something, so it makes the behavior stronger and eventually when they understand they will be more eager than ever. Here is another good clip for the beginning of

Absolutely! This is from

Heidii - do a search of my name on youtube... I have an embarassing version of me teaching contacts on there I'm pretty sure :D. I can't post the link though as I can't get onto youtube. ETA - unlike Kavik - I have the touch plate right at the BASE of the contact as this gets them to shift their weight onto their rear as opposed to landing hard on their front I also then graduated from stairs to a contact plank (puppy see-saw) which was raised on phone books, then placed the plank on the stairs, which gave me a good angle! Here you are and

So what it's your option?

Target training is used by the best world class trainers in the world to teach one of these crazy fast dogs. It's definitely NOT for slower dogs. Shaping/teaching 2o2o with a target gives the dog a very clear criteria (2o2o) and a job to do (target). Susan Garret (just like LP said) teaches 2o2o with target and sometimes releases the dog early so it might look like a running contact. Running contacts are quite hard to teach as the criteria is not very clear to the dog so you need a lot of repetitions (you basically need your own equipment to teach it). The most successful method would be to use a box frame and first to teach the dog on the ground or to use paw target where the dog learns to run and touch the target with a paw. Having said that little dogs (like JR) are great at running contacts are are less likely to jump off than larger dogs like BCs.

I have 2o2o with both of my dogs, although one has 2o2o down and one has 2o2o stand. I have shaped the down in the 2o2o so I didn't use the command 'down'. I used the nose target training to teach 2o2o stand. I don't add/use any commands until the behavior is completely learned.

I think you might confuse them if you work with them together. Can you put one dog away when you are working with the other one?

I have one clicker but I never train two dogs in the same time (well never with the clicker).

let me know next time you want to shop on CR and we will save on shipping if we combine our orders :rolleyes: yes... I am a CR addict as well

aussie one http://www.agilityclick.com/

Just remember that they don't cover the heartworm

Well done!

Sorry My golden retriever has a funny sit too, just like what you are describing I would love to learn how to teach her a more tucked-in sit. (btw to the best of my and my chiro's knowledge she does not have any hip problems)

The first time I gave my dogs raw fish (it was mullet) they weren't too eager but they did eat it. Now I give them frozen fish (most often salmon heads). They love them and eat them as eagerly as they eat their usual raw meaty bones.

That's what I thought too... but I am definitely not an expert

Do you walk your dog when it's raining?

Thanks! that's very helpful

I put Betadine on them and then get all the moisture out with Curash Powder. I have heard some people having success with Listerine. The most important thing is to keep it dry.

Isn't that 'over kill' (no pun intended) as far as worming is concerned though? Effectively it means the dogs are given 3 times more the dosage of worming drugs than would otherwise be prescribed under the usual worming regime. Well if you have an -mectin sensitive breed you don't have a lot of options.

maybe you are thinking of Advocate, that doesn't cover tape worm?

If you are on Interceptor (monthly) you don't need to use any other drugs for worms.

WAAG is awesome!!!! I think if you can find a 2nd club it's good.... but as tempting as it it I would not try to learn more new things but work on your foundations in the 2nd club as well! You can never do too much of that and trust me you will be glad you did.

Thanks for the tips. I had been giving her 2 meals and was told to go to 1 meal a day - now I have gone back to 2 meals and today I left dry food for her as she didn't eat anything for brekky. I've tried sardines she wouldn't touch them. If you don't want to have a fussy eater don't leave the food out at all times.