Faolmor

Better get my pen out and actually enter a few shows this year...

No, as long as they are free of disease before bringing them to the grounds.

I'm really looking forward to 2010

Hello Glendabenda

$20 car per day $40 car + trailer per day Is there exhibitor parking? Or is it just a free-for-all like it is here in Perth? Is parking close to the grounds? Still tossing up whether or not to make the trip over! You can drive up and drop all your gear (plus dogs, if you have someone to watch them) and then drive your car down to the parking lot (yes for exhibitors). If not you can park in the parking lot and make the hike with your dogs & gear down to the pavillion - Its about a 5-10min walk. We don't mind the walk, and is fine if you bring a trolley for your gear/dogs. If you have no room for your trolley near your bench, its easy enough to fold it up and put it under the benches. PLUS a trolley comes in handy when you are scooting in and out of teh ring with multiple dogs, and never enough handlers Thanks!

$20 car per day $40 car + trailer per day Is there exhibitor parking? Or is it just a free-for-all like it is here in Perth? Is parking close to the grounds? Still tossing up whether or not to make the trip over!

No, it won't be a mistake Just remember to have fun and not make it too serious for your pup. I usually always do Bunbury, because we have family there (though whether we go will be depending on the weather forecast, as it can be hot and horrible down there sometimes).

How are people who do things like that even made? What prompts them to act? I just don't understand. Signed.

The breeder recommended supercoat. She is having raw chicken wings, I will try her on the sardines and the apple cider vinegar. Thanks for the advice Forgot to add, with the apple cider vinegar, make sure it's a good brand from the health food shop, not that clear, useless crud they sell in the supermarket

What does her breeder recommend? I'd start by asking them - unless they recommended the Supercoat? Either way, talk to the breeder and say that you are concerned your puppy might not be doing as well on the Supercoat as you'd like, and what premium kibble would they recommend? If you do wish to change your puppy's diet, but want to stick to kibble, I would recommend one of the premium kibbles, since they use more meat and vegies and less "bulk" - ie grains etc. They are more expensive, but you get what you pay for. I would also look at introducing some raw meaty bones (such as raw chicken wings). Your puppy will appreciate these, and they help to keep the teeth clean. You could also consider adding some fish oil to her diet - I do this by adding some sardines added to the kibble meal a few times a week. A teaspoon of apple cider vinegar added to a litre of her drinking water will help bring out a lovely shine in the coat, and also has added health benefits. If she balks at the smell at first - and some do - just lower the amount you put in the water. Any change to your puppy's diet must be done slowly - over the course of a week or two, with little amounts of the new food being added each time. A completely change will cause diarrhoea, as puppies' digestive systems are very immature and their guts must slowly build up the flora required to cope with new foods.

My three (Irish Setters x 2 and 1 Lab) are on EP holistic - either duck and oatmeal or the anchovy. They love it and it seems to agree with them. I have heard of others' dogs who don't do as well on it. Like anything, you need to end up choosing the food your dogs do best on. I would recommend the product, though. My Lab is allergic to just about everything, including chicken, but he can handle the duck and oatmeal, even though it is made with some chicken.

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Owner, exibitor, soon-to-be-breeder 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? Difficult to really pinpoint, since the breed has had several stages of development. Here's what I wrote on Wiki lol... One of the first references to the 'Setter,' or setting dog, in literature can be found in Caius's De Canibus Britannicus, which was published in 1570 (with a revised version published in 1576.) Translated from the original Latin, the text reads: The Dogge called the Setter, in Latine, Index: Another sort of Dogges be there, serviceable for fowling, making no noise either with foote or with tongue, whiles they follow the game. They attend diligently upon theyr Master and frame their condition to such beckes, motions and gestures, as it shall please him to exhibite and make, either going forward, drawing backeward, inclinding to the right hand, or yealding toward the left. When he hath founde the byrde, he keepeth sure and fast silence, he stayeth his steppes and wil proceede no further, and weth a close, covert watching eye, layeth his belly to the grounde and so creepth forward like a worme. When he approaches neere to the place where the byrde is, he layes him downe, and with a marcke of his pawes, betrayeth the place of the byrdes last abode, whereby it is supposed that this kind of dogge is calles in Index, Setter, being in deede a name most consonant and agreeable to his quality." [3] It would be incorrect to assume the dog described above in any way resembles the Irish Setter (or any Setter) as we know the breed today. Caius was referring to a type of setting spaniel, most likely now extinct. The description of the work undertaken by this early pillar of the breed resembles the working behaviour of modern Irish Setters. Of this early dog, Caius went on to write: "The most part of theyre skinnes are white, and if they are marcked with any spottes, they are commonly red, and somewhat great therewithall." If this is the case, it is safe to assume the solid red colouring of today's Irish Setter came about by selective breeding practices. Further reference to Setters in early literature can be found in The Country Farme, by Surflet and Markham, published in 1616. They wrote: "There is also another sort of land spannyels which are called Setters." [4] It is clear that, by the early 18th Century, the type of dog known as the 'Setter' had come into its own right. It is also clear the Irish had begun actively breeding their own type. For example, the de Freyne family of French Park began keeping detailed stud records in 1793. Other prominent landed Irish gentry also known to have been breeding setter lines at the same time include Lord Clancarty, Lord Dillon, and the Marquis of Waterford. It was noted as early as 1845 that Setters in Ireland were predominantly either red, or, according to Youatt [4], "...very red, or red and white, or lemon coloured, or white patched with deep chestnut." Clearly, the preference for a solidly-coloured dog was having an effect on the appearance of the typical Irish-bred setter. Irish Setter circa 1915The Breed Standard for the modern Irish Setter was first drawn up by the Irish Red Setter Club in Dublin, and approved on the 29th of March 1886. It consisted of a 100-point scale, with a given number of points awarded for each of the dog's physical attributes. The points system was later dropped; however, aside from some minor changes, the Standard remains largely unchanged today in most countries where the breed is formally recognised. 3. How common is it in Australia? Nowhere near as common as it was in the 70s. Over-breeding and ignorance regarding the training and care for Irish Setters caused a misconception that the breed is difficult to train, hyperactive and stupid. Popularity of the breed has waned because of this - which is a shame, because the breed is anything but stupid, and is especially good with children. They are a fabulous family dog. 4. What is the average lifespan? Irish are typically healthy and long-lived - average lifespan 12-14 years. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Sweet-natured, friendly and trust-worthy. The breed runs the gamit of energy levels - from bright, outgoing and energetic, to gentle couch-potatoes who just love to be with the family. Some dogs have a tendency to bark, and love the sound of their own voice. Others are quiet. Males tend to be a bit less "clingy" than the females. But all need their special family time each day, and should never be kept apart from the family. They can also be sensitive and sulky and really hate to be told off! 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? 30 mins at least. Mental stimulation is essential, as the Irish is a breed with strong working roots. They love a job to do. They are a breed who will happily settle for what they get, but they're always hoping for more A bored Irish is, however, a destructive Irish. Ignore your Irish at your peril! They will find themselves something to do if you don't. And it might not be something you agree with... 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Yes, if they are genuinely prepared to put effort into even the pet coat, and to provide their dog with the attention it needs. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes - if you don't mind your garden being destroyed beyond recognition... This is not a "leave in the backyard" breed - not that any breed is. But Irish in particular crave company. They are not a dog that can be ignored. They have to be involved with all aspects of family life. They love other dogs and will happily accept playmates. They are particularly good with puppies. 9. How much grooming is required? The coat requires honest work, but it is fairly easy to maintain. Irish are a breed who like to get their paws dirty when the opportunity arises. A weekly bath (at least) is essential for show dogs, plus a nightly pee-feather rinse for males. The breed has a tendency to suffer from "spay coat" when desexed. Yellow fluff quickly grows through the red top coat and requires stripping to keep it in order. This is not a difficult job, but it is one that must be kept up. The breed also requires trimming of the feathering between the toes. If you begin the grooming routine when young, this breed is easy to groom and handle. Feathering could be trimmed for pets, especially in summer when the grass seeds will get twisted through the coat and cause the dog irritation. The coat will give back exactly what you put into it. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Yes and no. Irish are particularly good with children - and with people in general. They can easily be trained to behave nicely in the presence of young children and the elderly and infirm. However, they are energetic, and they could easily bowl over a small child or an elderly person without meaning to. They also have a very active (and strong!) tail wag which could whack a small child in the face! Irish can be surprisingly gentle, and have an excellent ability to "read" people. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? The main diseases for Irish are PRA and CLAD, both of which have a DNA test available in Australia, and both of which are tested for in most - if not all - breeding stock here. Hip Dysplasia is another problem, but again, breeders here tend to test their stock and Australia's average score is lower than some countries. Two other diseases that can occur in Irish Setters are epilepsy and entropion (where the lower eyelid sags outwards). Both are extremely uncommon in Australian-bred Irish Setters. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Always ask to see proof of clear PRA and CLAD certificates, as well as hip scores of both parents. I would also be very clear about what you want the dog for - ie pet, show, working etc. There are two distinct types of Irish for show and working - the working type is smaller and more active than the larger, more heavily coated show type of dog. Both have great temperaments and make good pets, but the working type should really be given bird work, or if this isn't possible, another job such as obedience, agility, tracking...something that makes use of the dog's excellent working drive. It would be extremely unfair and cruel to condemn any Irish Setter to a life alone in a backyard, so be honest with yourself before you make any decisions regarding this breed. If you're not willing to put the time and effort into this beautiful breed, leave them to those who are!!

I knew I loved Scotland for a reason

I get my pups used to the bath at around 10 weeks of age. I just put a tiny bit of water into the tub - literally enough to wet their toes - throw in some toys and let them splash around and play for a few minutes once a day. It's not a real bath...it's just a fun game in a bit of water. Once they're happy to play without thinking anything of it, I'll drip a little water over them and get them wet, always keeping it fun and happy. Gradually, we work up to the real deal. I now have 3 adult dogs who will happily stand in the bath for as long as it takes to get them clean. They might not always be thrilled to hear the "b" word...but they behave nicely and that's all I require.

I'm with Settrlvr. I always condition - during the bath, and spray on afterwards. (The Lab just gets spray on conditioner afterwards - the setters get conditioned during and after.) The boy also gets a very light spray of seabreeze oil every second or third night after his pee feather wash.

There is a national register - but I'm not sure that it's the first port of call for lost dogs turned into the pound. Actually, I'm not even sure how it works! Someone here will know, though. Otherwise, google may well be your friend!

It smells especially good when accompanied by soft puppy wuffles against your cheek or ear, too! Dammit. Now I'm puppy-clucky.

I wouldn't have thought it was caused by intestinal worms. I would have thought a combination of diet and immature digestive system? I know once the digestive system matures, the puppy breath seems to disappear. Or possibly it's because by that stage, you've simply stopped adding milk to their diet?

OA, is it getting cold where you are? Could it be a change in the weather that has brought this on? Does he seem to be sooking for you? Ie, does he stop when he's with you? Or is he just making noise for the sake of it? Our Lab can be a whinger. Sometimes, I don't even think he's aware he's whinging; he just does it. I get the impression, with him, it's like a self-comforting thing...eg, if I can hear myself, then everything is okay! I know what you mean about it being annoying. It's one of those sounds that can immediately get under your skin and drive you mad - and it's always worse when it's your own dog! Other people's dogs can whinge, and I don't even notice, but when it's mine, it's like waving a red rag to a bull I wish I could offer advice on how to stop it. But like I said, I'm sure some dogs don't even know they're doing it, which makes it hard to train them out of it. I guess one suggestion could be to make him aware of the fact that he's doing it (if you're sure there's nothing wrong with him). Maybe using a clicker to reward him when he stops might help him become of aware of the fact that you'd prefer him to be quiet than whinging!

My three all have water bowls in their crates. I find they like to drink more at night.

Two of mine happily scarf down roo. But Fionn, spoilt PITA that he is, won't even touch it. He will nibble around it, and leave it untouched in his bowl. I don't bother about it much - I figure there are foods I don't like either

I would give chicken wings, rather than necks, to a Lab. Having said that, some labs can't tolerate chicken (like mine!), so introduce any new food slowly and watch for PERSISTENT issues which might result. (Eg, diarrhoea when introducing a new food isn't uncommon with puppies...persistent diarrhoea, that doesn't go away over time, means there's a problem; also look out for suddenly itchy, dry or flaky skin). Turkey necks are also good, if you can find them. Woolies sometimes have them. When his jaw is a little stronger, you can also give turkey wing pieces. I feed my dogs a mix of raw and prepared (meaty bones, vegies, yoghurt, fish and Eagle Pack kibble). Raw diets can really work for your dogs - but if you feed 100%, you have to be prepared to make sure your dog is getting everything it needs from the diet. My personal preference is to feed the blend of both. Vegies and raw meats and bones spice up the dog's diet and make life healthy and enjoyable for them. A good quality kibble fills in the dietary blanks for my dogs.

Do you mean whimpering? If so, some puppies are quite talkative like this, especially so soon after being removed from the litter as it's such a big change for them. Some pups can become quite sooky until they get used to it. And some just like to hear the sound of their own voice. Unless the pup seems uncomfortable or in pain, then it's nothing to worry about.

That would definitely be my guess. If it was a pee spray, you could tell by it's shape, surely?

I would agree with requesting pain relief to take home (unless the op is late in the day and the meds are given immediately prior to discharge). I had my bitch speyed recently, and one of my biggest regrets is not making sure I brought home extra pain relief after the vet assured me she would be fine. I ended up sitting up half the night holding a cold pack on the belly of a VERY uncomfortable and distressed bitch. I add that my bitch was older than 6 months. I've heard the younger dogs tolerate the post-op pain a little better than the young ones do. Also add that after that first night, she was fine and bounced back like nothing had happened.