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When you're not able to watch him- make sure he is locked away from cords and dangerous things The other suggestions are sessions of training, short ones- to tire him out- and as said- interesting toys

Maybe it's the reflection in the bowl? feed him on the floor... and remove the milk/water bowl. Put water in a ceramic bowl...and see how that goes. don't hover... just put food on the floor... and leave him be. Is there any other strange surface/noise/smell near where he's being fed?

Aren't you going to treat both pups? I would also suggest ADVANTAGE , if you must use something- although unless you have seen a flea r fleas- you may not need to use anything yet. and yes- your pup is very young! How old is the other?

Oh shite So sorry, Pandii.

You need to supply food which will 'make' faeces which are larger and a bit firmer..these 'squeeze' the glands as the dog poos. So- if pooing is quick & easy.. changes need to be made so that there is some effort required. NOT straining and puffing just not a quick , small poo.

poor little mite- hopefully she will have a smooth recuperation

Pups vocalise whilst playing- it's a normal thing Babies /kids squeal and gurgle- so do pups.

Hi-I would also suggest BONNIE lite... we had our old golden ret X on this , and he did well

Not really- those things are a compound of milkpowder and all sorts of stuff- and chunks can break off or be chewed off.These may be swallowed....and get stuck. If you have a look on DOl.. heaps of people feed chicken every day!! Use wings (whole) and carcasses(frames) .... legs are the weight bearing bones, and I guess they 'could' splinter.. but RAW chicken bones are soft and digestible Roo tail lengths are terrific, if you can get them! Oh - edited to add THIS , if you're interested

whatever you get- like turkey necks, chicken wings, lamb brisket/flaps,beef ribs... you don't need to cut it! Big is good- means the pup has to chew a lot- and won't be swallowing chunks of bone (why were you told to avoid chicken?)

You would be much better giving him raw lamb necks/chicken wings/turkey necks... so he can chew the meat off. RAW bones are also softer... a dried bone for a baby could be frustrating...- he will not get anything off it

Berry- sorry you aren't happy with advice offered. Then, if the diagnosis was correct, there is the possibility that the condition will get worse, and your pup will suffer. I totally understand about the limited finances... but a lot of vets have a payment plan of some sort. I too wish I had taken out pet insurance for my boy some years back- had to pay heaps when he needed bowel surgery. I hope all goes well with your pup.

Hi- just some more information ....???? How old is the pup? How long have you had her? Where does she spend most of her time? Do you allow her on your lap? Do you carry her around? is she an only dog? If she is old enough, how long/far is she walked each day? What training have you done with her? What do you do when she growls/bites? What does her breeder say?

it depends on the size of the food pieces- puppies/dogs will usually swallow anything which is small enough. manouvering small pieces of food into position to chew takes too long

Hi- I would also suggest walking a 6 month old with a joint problem for 35 min 2 x a day is probably too much WAY too much. try doing several short sessions of obedience/trick training. This will give his BRAIN a lot of exercise........... and may well tire him more than a 35 min. walk (and be better for his elbows.)

Sorry- are you serious? All predators eat bone. Whether it be mouse or moose- a certain amount of bone is chewed and eatenas part of a meal....along with a certain amount of offal and connective tissue, and hair/fur/feathers/scales these provide valuable minerals.... Predatory animals given free choice will pick softer bones to completely consume.. and as these bones are usually attached by sinew/tendons/muscle... they get thoroughly and completely chewed. If it is not natural... then why do cats/dogs/dingoes/foxes do it?

I agree with huski- For YOU to control your dog- it is YOU who needs to be taught - not the dog :D Hopefully you will now get the help and education you need

What methods have you and the trainer tried? Maybe someone here has had results with similar methods, and will share?

Yep That's what dogs are meant to do- consume bone/meat/skin/tendons etc from their 'prey'

providing you feed large enough bones which are chewed- no problem at all Don't make the mistake of gving bones cut up, or the smaller bones- the gulping/swallowing whole may happen

To me,that is NOT 'puppy' That is MALE MARKING TERRITORY May I suggest that you do some NILIF training with him if you aren't ....and maybe keep him on leash inside--getting him to do downstays etc in that area.... so he gets the idea that it isn't 'his' to pee on ??

Oops= dbl post.

The same thing!Leave him there. make sure he's kept awake during the evening... feed him his final meal much later... then outside to toilet, then bed.This way he has a full tummy, has been well exercised, and has been to the toilet....

I have no answer...re the training side... BUT If it were me- I would be limiting their toys to very heavy duty stuff only. IMO- dogs don't need complicated,coloured,wobbly toys... some good thick cotton/jute rope, a couple of soccer balls(leather) a few (poly) plumbing fittings to toss around (these are almost indestructible) and a kong or three.

You live in Brissie- which doesn't get really cold- maybe you could shift some of your activities outside under a covered in verandah or something? I know puppies are different- but I have lived in two rentals with dogs allowed laundry only... we all did well and- your pup will probably benefit in one way- he will learn to entertain himself without risk to your furniture/electricals, etc!! When you get your own place- he will have basic training under his belt, and should then be more of a pleasure to have indoors