Janba

Well done for a first attempt Was this at Castle Hill Show? If it was this is a hard trial to do well at with a novice dog because of all the distractions.

JulesP The pups are too far away to go and look. The breeder has asked one of the local 3 sheep men to have a look at them for me. I want it for herding and hopefully 3 sheep as well which is what they are bred for. When I got my current dally there were none close so I looked at litters further away. I got sent some really good videos with things on them that give you a good idea of the pups temperament - like opening an umbrella and putting it down - does the pup run away, come up and investigate, ignore it etc. I am getting this pup because my current BC is not going to make the grade for herding, but he is also here for life and have great fun doing other things with him

I agree with the others but just wanted to add that you need a command that YOU are comfortable standing there saying in an encouraging voice while the very proper neighbours are having an outside party. :rolleyes: My basic house training rules are When they wake up put them out Right after they have eaten or drunk put them out When they stop playing put them out If they haven't been for a while put them out. I also stand there and repeat my command and lots of fuss when it happens.

Thanks everyone I have seen good videos of both parents working both in a small area and working a large paddock (distant, but you could still make out how they worked) so that is not a problem. They seem to compliment each other well. I have a choice of 4 pups and all I have to go on is a video like this of them. This is probably the longest sequence.A video of them interacting with each other and exploring something new would have told me far more about them.

Thanks everyone. :rolleyes: This is part of what I got sent by the puppies breeder. The rest is the same, just different pups. The pups bred to work. I am finding it hard to make a decision based on this and the breeders comments which seemed to rely on how strongly they attacked the rag and equate the strength of the pup with how they tugged. My way of thinking was that if this was a relevent method, why should a pup who interested in working the rag try to grab it if when they moved toward the rag the rag was moved away from them? I would have liked to see poultry used, the pups a bit older as well as the pups interacting with each other.

I think what they are trying to show is how the pups react to movement and to me she is following the movement and reacting to it. The breeders is worried that she is not chasing and playing tug, and therefor will be too soft. I would much rather it was ducks or chooks than a rag on a stick. 5 1/5 weeks is a little young for sheep. I don't know if this is a good method so I thought I'd ask other peoples opinions

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13trG5gotC4 I would be very interested in herding peoples opinion of this pup. She is 5 1/2 weeks at the time of the video. The breeder is worried that she isn't grabbing at the rag. ETA I am really interested in whether this method is showing anything valid about the pup.

I have one of those, but she is the most wonderful companion. If she ever makes it back into the obedience ring she will probably just scrape through. My dogs are firstly pets. They live in the house and I don't own a dog run. Also once they arrive they are here for life. I was just trying to point out that there is a difference between training for a high obedience score and training for a dog that is good to live with, and I believe it is possible to have both.

I do. I agree a lot of dogs are both, but there is a huge difference between competition obedience and obedience for everyday life. Competition obedience is a series of well trained tricks. When I heel I want the dog targeting my left hand the whole time. His eyes should not leave my hand. This is very different from anything I would ever ask outside of the ring. I expect a dog to walk without pulling and he is allowed to investigate and sniff to the end of the lead (wether it is 6ft or 2 ft) so long as he doesn't pull. I also have a command for come in close and stay beside me, but it is not heeling. There are people who concentrate very successfully on competition but don't work on the everyday things.

Some of the worst mannered dogs I know are top obedience winners ;) Competition obedience and an obedient dog are totally different things.

I don't think it matters what you teach a young dog so long as it is fun and within their physical capabilies. Any training (so long as it is positive) will help build up a working relationship and the dog is learning that training is fun.

I would have said very few and these are dogs usually have very experienced handlers. Just out of interest at the BC national last year the youngest dog in novice was just 2 years old , in open 17 months (no CDX title) and UD 3 years 5 months.

Dural Petland at Galson. My dogs were always happy to go there and at one point were there for 3 months and they looked after them really well.

Vickie I have just started my young BC (about 20 months) in agility and the rate at which he is progressing is amazing because he is maturing and ready to work. His owner just has to improve her handling skills to keep up. His obedience is the same - he is only just ready for me to start to put a bit of pressure on him in training and get ready for competition. I agree with Poodlefan - what is the rush?. If she doesn't make it to competition till she is 2 or 3, she will still have years of competition life ahead of her.

I had a Dally bitch that would nick off round a course if she got ahead of me and play hide and seek in the tunnel - going form one end to the other and peering out laughing at me ;) My current Dally loves the see saw but won't do the dog walk or A frame. She also thinks weavepoles bite and is oh so careful through them. She is a drama queen My young BC, who has just started thinks its all fun. Maybe he'll be the one who I will be able to trial with.

What does MDT stand for? It stands in her case for mobile dog training.

I just had two looking dogs rush up to the computer looking for the puppy It is so cute.

I take treats and lots of extra for the new people in my class who bring none or dry food ;)

I know what you mean about BCs being soft dogs. It sounds like he has got the idea into his head that he should pee inside or in his crate, not on the grass. I take you have tried a firm no and picking up midstream and taking outside. Maybe try training him with one of those absorbant pee mats or newspaper if he is paper trained. Place it where he usually pees when he comes in. When he comes in put him onto the mat to pee. Gradually move the mat closer to the door and then out the door and onto the grass. Then make it smaller until it is only a little square. Hopefully he will then transfer the peeing on the mat or paper to peeing on the grass. I used this method on a pup that had been raised on concrete and didn't really see grass till she was 3 months old, it took a while but it worked.

Does he piddle outside and if he does is it on grass or a hard surface?

I am sorry to hear about your girl I know nothing that anyone says at a time like this helps, but my old dally had lymphosarcoma and we managed to keep her comfortable and happy for quite a while after diagnosis with Macrolone.

I have a similar situation with my two, though probably not as extreme. When I bought my BC home as a pup the dally (desexed) immediately started mothering him and became protective of him. He was a very over the top pup and would often get told off by other dogs. When this happened the dally would warn off the other dog. She also was wary about who she would let near 'her' pup. She was fine with other dogs when he wasn't there. She has never worried about kids playing with him. I decided that she was basically saying "He is part of my pack and I have the right to discipline him - you don't" I simply stopped letting them both interact with other dogs at the same time. If the pup was playing with another dog she was on lead or in the car and visa versa. When they are both on lead I am cautious about other dogs coming up to them. He is now 18mths old and she is less protective of him, though I am still very careful about which dogs I let them interact with when they are together. IMO it isn't a jealousy but protectiveness for a junior member of the pack. You say she is fine with the neighbours dogs who she might see as extended pack members. Take her out by herself - maybe to an obedience club - and see what her reactions are like when the pup isn't around. When you do have them out together keep them on lead and if she worries about the pup interecting with other dogs, socialise him without her being there. I would also seek help from a professional about the protectiveness towards people.

Contact the clubs you are interested in and say tthat you are getting a new puppy and ask if you can go and watch a class. It will give you an idea of how they train and whether you feel happy training there.

I asked about the corona virus when there was an outbreak a few years ago and was told by my vet that most adult dogs have come into contact with it and have their own natural immunity. I don't know about leptospirosis. My vet is very thorough and he has never suggested a C7. Mine were last vaccinated in Oct

My vet does a C3 plus the nasal spray for kennel cough