Janba

So you are entering 8 individual dogs in each show and will keep doing so so will pay exactly the same levy as you do now? This will have no impact at all on showing and only on the performance people. In my sport if I normally entered 8 dogs I would be paying the same as I do now, but if I entered 4 dogs in 2 events each I would be paying double and people like Vickie could be paying 8 times as much for 2 dog. It will also make it far harder for the clubs running trials to not run at a loss. Entries will have to go up as the clubs couldn't afford to cover the costs of the increased levy. This would mean that some people would cut down on the number of entries so in effect they would have less money coming in to cover costs.

I don't think that it is paying it that is the problem but the amount paid. You would only pay $1 per dog at a show as each dog only enters 1 breed class whereas an agility competitor may pay $8 per dog at a trial. This motion has no effect on shows only onm performance events. It also means that at an average Sydney agility trail the levy raised will be more than from most shows with probably only 1/4 of the number of dogs entered. The same would probably apply to country shows and trials. ETA upt to now it has been $1 per dog entered.

I would imagine that the reason they exclude sweepstakes and property classes is that these classes do not contribute towards the available titles (CH and GRAND CH). You can win prizes but no challenge points. So to be the same application of rules, any agility round where only prizes and not qualification towards titles is on offer would be exempt. Wouldn't that arguement also extend to baby puppy classes?

Herding has 1 certificate and 2 test titles (though if you want to you only need to apply for 1) At trial levels there are 3 for each course type and each stock type. If you compete on 2 different courses and 2 types of stock that is 12 and another 4 if you get a CH on each course type and stock. At least you don't get tempted to get sashes for each title as they only do one for each trial level regardless of course or stock.

Show exhibitors would enter a dog in 1 class per show (property and sweepstakes not included if they are run) Obedience a maximum of 2 classes. Herding up to 4 if 2 types of stock are used and 2 courses run. Agility as Vickie said up to 8. I don't know about things like eathdog and doggie dancing but imagine it is similar to obedience. They tried this a few years ago and it got squashed then and hopefully will be this time as well. Agility is the hardest hit by this decision.

Congrats on your HIC Ness and to Dova as well.

Wat to go Piper. I bet you are over the moon.

Waiting, waiting for results. One of the judges has been back online for ages.

Seeing as I haven't seen the schedule I know I'll have to say both, though I'm not sure if I know the 2nd judge. We rarely have double trials in NSW because of entry numbers and running both A and B courses.

Good luck tomorrow and hears hoping for bragging posts about passes. I hear on that you have a really nice judge

In NSW you have the option that you want the breeder to recieve a certificate on the title application form. I usually fill it in (except last time when I forgot to take her address with me) because I think it is nice for the breeder.

ET is endurance title. It is the only title you can gain at the moment in endurance. ETA link to endurance rules http://www.ankc.org.au/home/inner.asp?pageid=70&mainid=2

I appreciate that but I was just pointing out why it is not a good idea to do it all the time. In a trial you do do all you can to help a dog but in training do it properly. Piper gave good advice as to where the draw is at that trial and how to overcome the problems with the bottom corner.

She is but herding is no different to teaching any other dog sport. If you let the dog get into the habit of doing something early on it is very hard work to correct it later. The test levels are a progression to the trial levels. If I had known what I do now when I had started Cole my initial training would have been very different as I am now having to put in a lot of training to try to correct my mistakes.

It may work well at the test levels but it is not a good idea if you want to progress to the trial levels - far better have good flanks and stop so you can put the dog into a posn to lift the sheep off the fence. Repeatedly changing posn with the dog in corners could pattern the dog into this behaviour when the ssheep get stuck in a corner and make it harder later on particularly when you start to drive. Putting sheep in corners can be a lack of experience and confidence in a dog as once they are in a corner they are under control. In a trial level if you change posn with the dog and the sheep move towards you you will lose points for a retreat on course and depending on how you then get the sheep moving in the right direction again you could also get an offline. When the sheep stop and face the dog the sheep to try and put pressure on to get things moving is he one looking for somewhere to go not the one stamping at the dog or standing its ground. This also works at obstacles - you try to put the pressure on the sheep that are looking to go through the onbstacle or into the pen. It sounds easy when you write it down but not when your dog refuses to move over a foot or 2 because he wants to keep the pressure on the sheep standing him up.

What Piper said Remember to keep moving so the sheep have something to draw to. If things start to go wrong stop the dog before the sheep are out of the dogs control, breathe deeply and keep in front of the sheep so they have something to draw to. If you dog has a strong instinct to balance and you stand still or get out of position they will tend to circle or push the sheep in the wrong direction to maintain the balance. If they go into the corner at the top of the arena after going through the panels (near markers 2 and 3 if you look at your rules) make sure you are down the fence line in the direction you want sheep to go and move slowly away from the sheep placing you dog on the fenceline behind the sheep if you can. This will help push the sheep off the fence and round the corner. Once they have turned try to put the dog on the inside of the sheep but not level with them so the fence covers one flank and the dog the other. You have 10 minutes to do the course and it is a simple pass/fail so there is no need to panic and try to rush and can reattempt the panels etc if you get it wrong the first time.

You could also add herding to the list as the OP has a Koolie. There is some ionformation on DogsNSW site and if you google NSWSDWA you can get information 3 sheep trialling. The Koolie club does run clinics once a month at Binalong.

Congratulations TSD and Superminty.

One of my dogs was bought from a breeder just after CL DNA testing became available and he had known carriers on both sides of his pedigree (5 gen back). I bought him on the condition that purchase price and all costs were refunded if he turned out to be affected on a DNA test. He was clear but as it turns out has a high probability of being a carrier of another disease based on DNA testing of his relatives when that test became available. Youn do need to ask and get in writing these conditions before purchase if possible. Carrier status would not worry me in a dog if that dog was what I wanted in a dog because as others have said they will never get the disease and if bred to a clear dog will never have affected offspring.

The only bitch I have had that had pyometra had got it after having 3 litters. Admittably it was a couple of years after her last litter. I don't know if the chance of getting it is the same if they have had a litter or more than if they have never been bred from.

How long since she was in season? Take her to the vet and have them check her out. They can desex while pregnant. It could also be a phantom pregnancy.

How long since she was in season? Take her to the vet and have them check her out. They can desex while pregnant. It could also be a phantom pregnancy.

The walk up is something I think we teach our dogs far too late but if you do a bit each time you see sheep it will soon happen. If you can get the sheep into a race or long narrow area it is easier to teach and you can also teach them to back up as well. It is also easier if you get stuck to keep in front of the sheep walking away from them (if that makes sense) so they have some one to draw to. Poppy will also get more confident about pushing her sheep once she has more experience. Today Cole and I got our first intermediate pass and that involved a lot of walking up and an owner who needs to destress.

Farmers mailbox sells ones with wire baskets and leather straps designed for BCs and kelpies but probably not what you want.

Snails don't live long after eating the bait and it is unlikely a snail is going to wander far from a food source. If you are really concerned about the coming in from next door lay some saw dust along the fence line - the snails won't cross it as it dries them out. Why shouldn't dogs like eating snails - people do and they like eating one of their relatives raw as well - oysters.