Sandra777

Honestly I wouldn't have thought so for a breed like a CKCS, it's not like they're shown in a stripped state or anything I guess if you have a breed which gains weight easily and which isn't particuarly active it is easy for a dog which is just lounging around the house to gain some weight, but not a good thing IMO.

Calcium Sandoz in very large doses and glucose - but frankly if the bitch had a difficult whelping the first time and I believed she would again and I decided not to spay her I'd just book her in for an elective caesar, much less stressful on all concerned (except my bank balance).

At 8 weeks he's not teething so don't allow that as an excuse. It's perfectly normal for puppies to bite (politely called mouthing ) but their littermates and mother teach them that biting hurts so they tend to not bite them so much and instead most try out biting people instead. I am a bit concerned when you say your 8 week old puppy is starting to bite - how long have you had him? Bite inhibition is an essential lesson - what advice did the breeder's puppy pack include on this? I would be enrolling yourself in a puppy preschool class as others have suggested so you can get first hand advice.

I was at ringside one day when a very large toy exhibitor bent over rather more than her skirt manufacturer had allowed for, the man standing beside me (no not my OH!) said "OMG now I know why I'm gay" The crowd collapsed in a heap.

Pretty common with dogs big enough to do so. Bin the necks and buy wings, maryland, drumstick or turkey necks (they're HUGE!) or wing pieces She won't be getting it out the other end - it's going to be digested along the way Swallowing chicken necks whole is extremely dangerous - they're the same size and shape as the trachea - far too easy to inhale and choke and virtually impossible to get back out again if they go down the "wrong tube". I won't give them to anything over 5 or 6 weeks old around here.

I doubt he's angry and wouldn't be at all surprised if he has now realised these strangers are here to stay so is on edge about the invasion of his territory and life, especially when he is possibly feeling very unsure of himself after being attacked. Not meaning this unkindly but in a good human-dog relationship the dog generally looks upon the human as the one that can protect them from all things (the leader if you like, but in the dog's eyes more like a god-figure, he-who-will-save-us-from-everything). If you accept this view, in your dog's eyes you "failed" to protect him so it could be that he's now thinking you can't protect him from anything so he has to do it himself. Please get a behaviouralist - 2 bull breeds dogs fighting is a very dangerous situation for man and dog.

Impossible to say exactly how much is too much in the long run because every puppy is different and it might be 10mm today 12mm tomorrow and 5mm next Tuesday . IMO if the upper jaw is too long (or the lower too short, has the same effect!) to the degree that the lower baby incisors are gouging into the roof of the mouth, then it's probably too much at that particular point in time, but would it be too much next week?? If the lower canines are inside the upper jaw then you have a narrow lower jaw as well as a short one (or long upper jaw, same effect) and this would be more of an issue to me. Like I said before, I've had a pup with a 25mm overbite end up with a perfect mouth, so that wasn't "too much" in her particular case. I would be asking the breeder's advice, they know the pups and (I assume?) the lines. If they don't know request that they ask their mentors/the stud dog owner/breeder of their bitch/an experienced breeder with the same bloodlines.

Not sure about Border Collies specifically, but generally speaking the lower jaw stops growing after the upper jaw has so an overbite will generally improve. I have had a 6 week old puppy with a 25mm overbite, now at 14 years old her mouth is still perfect. Does concern me that the breeder didn't notice before the vet!!!!

Whaaaaaaaaat Would these be the English Staffys, the Blue English Staffys or what? :D Which size. Stupid list

If your unleashed dog barked and rushed at my leashed dog (regardless of breed) then whatever happens would be your fault. If 2 unleashed dogs end up in a serious fight then both owners are at fault If you don't have a 100% reliable recall keep the **** dog on a leash.

So sorry dogmad the humor related to the media naming and blaming breeds (be they Mastiffs, Chihuahuas or whatever). I walk my Staffords and have to be constantly on guard for them being attacked by unleashed dogs - don't assume for a second that it is solely a problem faced by owners of "small" breeds. If my dog is attacked it may have a better chance of surviving but goD save us if surviving is the criteria we are using to decide if an attack is serious or not.

No, doesn't sound like teething even if he was old enough. Sounds to me like he's decided that whatever your doing to stop him chewing is not really much to worry about and the whole world is a chew toy so munch away. Or more accurately, whatever you are doing to direct him to what he is allowed to chew, because it's an awful lot easier to teach a dog what he may chew than it is to teach him all the things he may not chew :D Be more attentive to his behaviour - stop him from chewing on forbidden things before he even starts (get to know his, "hmmm think I'll have a munch" look) and redirect him to one of his own toys. Ice frozen vege and frozen drink bottles dont actually sound all that appealing for a 10 week old puppy. Mine like soft toys (op shop) ,plastic squeaky things ($2 shop), ropes (bunnings) and other things like this that are soft and and be chewed on will a nice full bodied chewing action ETA they're Staffords so will chew up bricks and concrete if allowed to. Plastic flower pots or buckets (remove the handles) are always much loved - running around with a bucket on your head may be a Stafford thing though. When he starts teething his baby teeth will fall out and be replaced by adult teeth - you will probably notice this happen unless he's a solely outside dog, and you should certainly be teaching him to let you look at his teeth as part of his daily grooming regime so you'll notice it when it happens.

That would be a Pottie

Phone the breeder. Retained teeth is pretty common in toy breeds, most breeders will have a plan of action (which of course might include seeing a vet :cool: )

Yes, there was a similar incident in NZ a few years ago now. A Bullmastiff was being walked on leash on the footpath and a Min Poodle jumped it's fence and attacked the Bullmastiff - and paid the obvious price for it's foolishness. Of course it became a witch hunt against vicious and dangerous Bullmastiffs. (All breed names have been changed by the media to protect the guilty) :cool:

It's not actually a Mastiff of course - it will be some random crossbred brindle dog. Big ones are Mastiffs and smaller ones are staffy crosses ;) Poor Minnie Mouse

Room temperature wouldn't matter to me as much as the temperature in the whelping box at puppy level. A covered whelping box with or without heating (depending on breed and outside temperature) has always been the go for me coming from NZ, where keeping them warm was the priority not keeping them cool

Instead of the pup having to be locked outside, if you have the crate in a central part of the house it can be inside, seeing and hearing the normal household activity, but not getting into trouble. Allowing a puppy to follow you everywhere is setting it up for problems later on, IMO pups need to learn early in life that it's OK to be alone and also OK to be separated (ie not able to follow/reach) people/things/other dogs it wants or is used to having access to - this teaches patience and how to cope with frustration

Mentally resilient (just plain mental some days helps) and able to bounce back from disappointment. But most of all - remember why you got a dog in the first place. Was it so you could win ribbons (in which case you should have bought something inanimate) or so you could enjoy the company of the dog Even after 30 years of showing I still get so much more pleasure out of watching the dogs be nutty at home and cuddling with them on the couch in the evening than any of the ribbons and accolades they have won. The bitch I remember most fondly and still miss most bitterly was never more than average in the show ring. ETA: You can generally spot the newbie that won't last, but generally it's because they come in with unrealisitic expectations and after they've been to two shows start whinging about how the judge knows nothing. Yep, with an attitude like that you'll stand the competition for about three weeks.

That's not a new thing Inspection fee I think refers to them inspecting the paperwork and your cheque

Nothing wrong with cheese, most dogs which are lactose intolerant have the problem because they've never been exposed to lactose in cows milk (given goats milk or lactose free milk). Eggs are brilliant food. With a big breed like a DDB it's especially important to take the advice of someone who knows big breeds, so do what the breeder tells you. Also - MEAT ALONE is very bad for puppies so "raw meat" is a very very bad idea - meat on the bone great, raw meat alone no way - totally unbalanced. I don't have a large breed but my pups are fed as wide a variety (species wise) of meaty bones as I can manage to obtain. If you are going to change the pup from commercial to raw diet you must do your homework and do it right, especially with a big breed puppy. IMO if you need to ask what type of meat to feed you should be feeding a commercial diet (Royal Canine, Nutro, Eagle Pack) until you've sorted out some more information. Good luck with the new baby

Can anyone confirm, is the $270 fee for this permit an annual fee? Not very clear on their website, isn't that a surprise! Yep, can phone the council on Monday

Who said I was talking about APBT? After 30+ years with the original pit dog, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, I think I have a faint understanding of how this specific genetic trait works (and believe me, it is alive and well in the SBT). I do have problems reconciling the two conflicting statements I have put in italics. A successful line is more likely to produce the same trait. A successful line doesn't produce the same trait. That's a bob each way. IMO the reason the second line didn't reliably produce the trait was because the founder of the line was not prepotent for the trait (a fluke bred dog) OR was not genetically programmed to be successful but gained his (her?) success by 'luck' and training Yes, it is certainly polygenic and is certainly quickly lost is not selected for, which is why I said it is a very unnatural genetic manipulation.

Not a Gr Ch, but a major winning bitch (to the extent only two other bitches gained their titles in the region she was shown during her 5 year career, and one of them was ours ) The point of a competition is to compete with the best. If your dog (not meaning you personally!) isn't good enough to beat the best, whats the point? It just becomes a conveyor belt - ch or gr ch hops off, another puppy hops on

Yes, and you get the oddest reasons - such as "they live all the way over ....." or "I want to be able to see the dog again"(like is the breeder going to make it invisible?) Somehow it was possible for you to get off your butt and phone the breeder when you wanted the puppy, but when you don't want the dog or can't have the dog any more the breeder lives tooooo far away to make a phone call! GGRRRR