Sandra777

Those that use it - how do you get around the fact that a lot of bitches dig up the bed and will quite happily rip/destroy EAT foam rubber. Nothing foam rubber ever goes anywhere near any of mine! Rolled up towels under drybed works well to get pups up on their feet. Never on newspaper alone :D

We used to have boarding kennels in a certain town, sold them and moved about 1000km away. Three years later I went back to that town to visit friends. Walking through a car park there was a dog SCREAMING at me for a pat from a car (it was winter time and cool, relax people). It was a dog which had been in our kennels I think five or six times. If that dog remembered me, your dog will certainly remember you. She may well be aloof to begin with as she could be confused when you come home, she won't be punishing you - dogs don't work like that.

If he was hungry he would eat. Pick the food up and carry on with your life.

If you've already got sit mastered then the solution is right there. Learn what cues your pup gives just before he starts his mouthing (biting). Embed these cues in your brain. EVERY SINGLE TIME he starts showing that the next thing he's going to do is mouth (bite), stop whatever you're doing (even if it's just walking out the door) stand up straight and neutral and tell him to sit. When he sits he gets a treat or just praise, but if you get a sit he leaps up again, instantly back to the neutral position (no waving of hands, stamping feet, random eye contact) and request another sit. He will very quickly learn that thinking about mouthing gets nothing, sitting when he gets excited gets your attention. I think he will partly be doing this because he doesn't know not to, but also because it's exciting and very self rewarding. You have to make it not exciting (by preventing him getting to the stage where the mouthing can even start) and provide something which is more rewarding - your attention. Staffords thrive on the attention of their owner - many don't seem to care all that much if it's positive or negative so long as it's attention. By flapping around and smacking and squealing and getting excited you're fueling his excitement and making it an even better game. It's up to you to teach him a better (less painful, for you! ) way of getting your attention. Ignoring the behaviour won't make it go away now it's quite ingrained. He obviously doesn't know what you want him to do so does what works. What do you do when he approaches you calmly and sensibly and doesn't mouth you - bet you ignore it but that's exactly the behaviour you want to praise like he's given you the winning lotto ticket. Please don't put him on a chain!!!!!!!!!!!

Nothing wrong with raw egg, so don't worry about what you've read about that - but you need to give the yolk and the white together and the whole egg including the shell is even better but good luck getting your fussy pants to eat that Instead of chicken necks try some other small raw meaty bone - lamb rib, veal rib, something like that Oil - just pour some (very small amount to start with) in the bowl with the dry food (once you get him to eat that) Decide what you want to feed the pup and stop swapping and changing. He started on Advance and has since had 5 different choices - and he's only been in your house 4 months. Can I come and live at your house please He can be spoiled and that's great, but it's very important for his long term health that he gets a decent diet both now and going forward, so meal times is not the time to do the spoiling! Bowl down for 15 minutes then that's it, all over until the next meal. How much do you think he needs and how much of that quantity is he actually eating? Is he in good condition, healthy active and full of energy, then chances are however much he's eating is sufficient and perhaps you are expecting him to eat way more than he actually needs?

Have you had this pup since it was 8 weeks old or only just acquired him? When the puppy gets excited and wants to play, what do you do? How much time does the pup spend with you every day and what do you do with the pup during this time? What would you like the puppy to do instead of biting - and what have you done to show the pup what is acceptable behaviour? Smacking can help as a last resort for some behaviours, but since the pup patently has no idea WHY you are smacking it, stop doing it. No desexing and diet won't help.

I don't believe size has much to do with poop frequency but I'd be fine with being wrong about that At 9 months old I wouldn't call a Pug a ''growing dog'' I'd all him virtually (physically) and adult. I wouldn't pay much attention to the amounts on a pack of any commercial food. If he's in good condition as in ribs easily felt, all the way up to the shoulders then he's getting the right amount of food.

Dimmitrol comes in a monthly chew.

9 months old and pooing 3 x daily I would say he's getting either too much food, or too much food he can't digest. Could well be the heat affecting him, but have you used any flea or other treatments on him? I would definitely have him on adult food by now - he's virtually full grown as he's own a little guy.

No a Maltese is not a terrier. The word terrier has no part of it's name. As for what "a website" says - well I can find websites that say all sorts of weird things, that doesn't make any of them true

Sorry - I really don't know what to make of this. A "highly trained protection dog" is trained to protect it's handler or property from PEOPLE. They don't go to a dog fighting ring boot camp! I would imagine that in many circumstances a protection dog which is highly dog reactive would be a big fail - for example Police work where dogs may need to be close together in crowd control situations, highly charged, very excited if they turned around and had a go at each other that really wouldn't be in the job description would it.

As I said - depends so much on the breed. I would guess from your signature line that none of your dogs have the physical jaw strength to exert enough pressure on a bone to shatter either the bone or the teeth - and oops if it's the teeth. IMO dogs were not designed to crunch the weight bearing bones of large herbivores - that's hyenas you're thinking of

Ouchy - good way for my lot to grind down their teeth and even shatter them. It just so much depends on the breed what is suitable - I would no more give a Stafford a dinosaur bone than I'd give one to a Chihuahua. Brisket bones are out here after one of ours tried to swallow one without chewing it first and choaked to death (yes supervised) Ribs, carcases, turkey necks and chicken wings, whole or halved rabbits are much appreciated and in NZ whole possums were a staple. (sorry )

I thought that was a muggle? - which would be a Maltese x Pug wouldn't it Bisart - I think they mean the dog is a small white fluffy creature purchased from a pet shop

You know dogs that chew dry food Mine have had Black Hawk recently and they definitely don't do any chewing (they also get RMB). No arguments with the quality of the food

Seriously, please do not think this. If the attacking dog was anything more than 15-20kg and was serious you would very likely end up DEAD. No doubt wll bring screams of outrage, but I have tried to hold down 15-16kg dogs in play and even without me being in ''full fight mode'' and them NOT biting, it's pretty difficult, and these are dogs which are't super dominant so will eventually just give up and relax. A dog in full switched on fight mode is a very very scary thing and can bite you three times before you even know it's turned it's head.

Hmm kicking with steel caps on worked pretty well against an Australian Cattle dog that thought it was tough. Some breeds, definitely not. Screaming and yelling only adds to the dog's arousal levels. Usually the first thing you need to do is tell everyone to shut up!

when dogs reach to a level where they are no longer controllable. where all they see is that object and that's it. Cesar Millan use his phrase a lot. Thanks. It's a Cesar-ism, well that'll be why I've never heard of it Dogs beyond the control of their owner attacking one of mine would (and have) got kicked in the stomach, throat and chest and the attentions of my own dog(s). I can imagine other breeds would require more protection than my Staffords do. If your dog is attacked by a ''fighting'' breed dog the worst thing you can do is physically hit the dog - it only makes the dog think it's being attacked and needs to fight harder. Pepper spray would stop most things.

"red zone dogs" - what are they??

Yes, and no not a lot of effort is put in here. Take the sack off, rub the pup but nope, never go to heroic means with one of those ones.

i'm trying to understand these ones. why would you enter in these? whats the benefit? Having multiple dogs the same age, none of which are eligible for Aust bred or (obviously!) State bred, these classes are a god-send!

I think this is a FCI award and something to do with the World show (always held in Europe so far as I know) Sorry, that wasn't very helpful!

Hope you came along on Saturday night - would you know it there were 6 or 7 Scotties entered - including the pups mentioned above!

Just been through this with my girl. Vitamin K injections and ABs and she's much improved. Sounds promising that there's been no bleeding overnight though!

How far along is the pregnancy? Have you asked the person you bought her from if they knew she was pregnant and when she was last in season? (Obviously a dumb question if she came from the pound - if from a proper rescue why isn't she spayed already?) If she is in good health she can be spayed and the pups aborted up to 7 or so weeks I believe. Honestly this would be my first choice. If she is a small dog and been mated by a large breed dog you could have issues with the birth. Wow some people can type real fast