Sandra777

Sounds like she's doing great (and you too ) Just relax and enjoy - pup's are pretty resilient!

Rest in Peace baby girl. Another victim of human stupidity.

Do you understand the difference between a fighting dog and a badly bred, badly socialisted dog? Apparently not. Fighting breeds were bred to fight dogs. They were specifically bred not to be human aggressive because in the fighting ring they were accompanied by their own handler and the handler of the other dog. A fighting dog which attacked the other dog's handler was instantly disqualified and a losing dog almost always ended up dead. A fighting dog which attacked it's own handler or was impossible to manage in kennels between fights would also end up dead. This is a crude but very effective method of selection against human aggression in a breeding programme.

Do you WANT to train her to toilet inside or do you WANT to train her to toilet outside? At this stage if you intend for her to use an inside loo my opinion would be get for the real thing and train her right from the start. If you intend for her to go outside then IMO you should use newspaper or puppy pads (although everyone seems to find the pup just rips up the pads) for her "emergency" play pen loo. In this way you are training her to eliminate outside on the surface you have out there (be that grass, concrete, pavers, whatever is in your yard) with the associated reward but if she can't hold on she pees on a different surface (paper/pads) but gets no positive feedback over it. Dogs are more sensitive to surfaces than to position so grass inside or grass outside isn't as important as the GRASS itself, so turf in a litter tray might encourage her to prefer turf over tiles (or carpet) but if you aren't there to praise the peeing on the turf and someimes she gets the turf and sometimes the newspaper, then she could get complacent and decide it really doesn't matter, peeing gives relief so is self rewarding so that'll do for her! As for softening the dry food - assuming it's the right size for her (small breed or whatever is appropriate) and she has normal teeth, then I wouldn't be softening it for her. She has teeth for a reason

Why are you adding milk powder to a complete food? I would've thought that would unbalance the commercial food. Yep, quite likely she is full up with the milk so won't eat any more. Me - I'd dump the milk. What's with the litter tray? Dog's don't use litter trays like cats do. Cats are instinctively drawn to crumbly surfaces to eliminate in (as they bury their waste) Dogs are instinctively drawn to grassy surfaces (so like carpet) If you want her to use an indoor doggy loo when full grown, use it now. As for the "nap time" command, every time you see her voluntarily taking herself off to bed, use the command. Every time you put her in there, use it too. She'll get the idea in the end. Other than that - enjoy!

To show, your pup needs to be on the Main Register. You need to belong to the Canine Control Council in your state. After that, you enter and basically rock on up and take your chances. You can enter your dog at any show in Australia with just this, no need to belong to other state's CCCs and no need for him to be registered in another state. Your pup needs to be trained to allow a stranger (the judge) to examine him while he stands still (wriggling is OK with a baby, they must enjoy it first and foremost) and he must be OK with a stranger examining his mouth (lifting his lips, teeth closed). Then he will need to trot on your left hand side with his head up and in a straight line (again, perfection is not required with a baby). Best place to start - go to a show and meet the natives Oh yes - and you'll get on much better in the show world if you call him a Staffordshire Bull Terrier - there is no "English" in the breed's name and most show people will get quite short with you if you make the mistake twice

Is there such a thing as a 125 pound Pit Bull??? Terrible tragedy for the family.

When I was still in NZ I importea a fair few pups from Australia. You can bank on the costs being around $1500-$2000 once you pay for the blood test needed, export pedigree, vet check and freight - plus the MAF fees in NZ and the GST on the pup & the freight when it arrives in NZ. Hint there - if you get the pup to arrive outside Customs working hours you may find you don't have to pay this but not always. Doesn't matter if you get a receipt from the breeder saying the pup cost you $1, Customs will be standing there with their hand out and they have a list of the average prices of various breeds. As for the company it actually doesn't matter much IF the breeder is willing to have care of the pup through the whole process and take it to the airport themselves, because in this case the pup is never actually in the care of the company. If you need someone to do all this for you then yes, it does matter!

Depends on the breed. I have mated a maiden bitch when she was 5.5 years. Had no problems whelping but bleed a LOT afterward and it certainly took it out of her. This was a Staffordshire Bull Terrier so small-medium but robust. Wasn't my choice not to mate her earlier. I have also had a bitch who had a singleton pup at 19 months then didn't have another litter until she was 6. She was fine, great mum.

Staffordshire Bull Terriers. Range from about $800 to about $1200 for show potential pups from ethical breeders and up to $3500 for rare blues that don't bear any resemblence to the breed

So, if you are an ANKC registered breeder, then breeding primarily for the pet market or to make a profit is an unethical practice, regardless of the size of the breeding operation. The COE doesn't say this though. It says for the commercial market which is supplying shops or those that do. Profit doesn't come in to it....

Wow, you feeding a dog or a parrot Scrap the bread crumbs and no need for the milk if you don't want to continue it (no harm if you do) I'd be feeding large things that take a while to eat - turkey necks, chicken bodies and the like.

Your pup was attacked, but what about his body language now suggested to you that he was attacking this puppy? Prolly panic bit huh? IMO you should leave dogs to work things out for themselves IF THEIR BODY LANGUAGE IS NEUTRAL No normal adult dog will intentionally seriously harm a puppy, so a Stafford with a Lab puppy would be fine IMO. A Stafford with a Chihuahua puppy, obviously a different story - too many things can happen by accident if there is too much size/weight difference! Growl, nip, can understand the instant reaction to get your dog away, no issues with that even though it probably wasn't necessary it's a pretty normal reaction

He's a Stafford, they're not widely known for universally loving dogs, so his behaviour shouldn't actually astonish you! Laying on top of a Lab puppy sounds like a pretty harmless way of him exerting control over a pup which could have been being just plain rude to him, or getting over the top (Labs can be very rough in their play which Staffords usually like but some may not) Personally I see no harm in this behaviour between two confident dogs, was there a reason you felt you should call him away that you haven't described here? In the second instance you don't know who growled and he nipped a puppy which might have been the one growling - normal behaviour between two dogs IMO. If it was your dog who growled then he could have been telling the pup off and when the pup didn't behave, gave it a nip. Personally I don't think you should be doing anything on the basis of what you have described here and the only advice I would give would be chose some friends your dog likes to play with and stick with them only. You may find that your dog just isn't that tolerant of pups, some aren't.

The comment was made by me in relation to the characteristics of a specific breed. No idea, perhaps other breeds do it for other reasons? I have a family of dogs which foot sit, they are all confident, out-there independent individuals. My more uptight family doesn't do it. I've always considered it to be a sign of a confident dog that knows people are there for their convenience The pups I have sold which I told the OP in that thread about have been crate screamers have all been from this same family. The oldest bitch from that family I have here doesn't and never has crate screamed, she just gets down to the business of busting her way out. She's in season at the moment and munched her way out of the run yesterday, b****y cow Her daughters (one adult, one older puppy) all do strangled chicken noises when they want out but thankfully they haven't graduated to eating their way out yet. The sister to the younger bitch has. All 4 love a good foot sit.

Pretty much what KTB said. I wouldn't be encouraging a Lab pup to toilet in the house at all! Is there a reason you can't train her to go outside?

5 times, screaming for 15 minutes at a time = one VERY stressed and unhappy puppy. Did you take her out side to pee on any of these occasions. Letting her out of the crate when she wants to toilet is teaching her to tell you when she wants to go - one of the foundation stones of house training. Ignoring her is teaching her not to bother telling you, just go because you won't provide what she needs - which is OUT to PEE please! Don't care if the crate is as big as a small house, she must not be forced to toilet in her living space, that is plain cruelty.

Sold a couple of pups like this over the years What I have recommended before is get a deep box instead of the crate for night time, something the pup can't climb out of. Put the box right beside the bed and when the pup starts up, take it out for a pee then put it straight back in the box, dangle your hand over the side of the bed into the box and say NOTHING. Don't pat the pup, don't move your hand at all. Nine times out of ten the pup will have a nibble on your fingers (yes I know, not a great habit but better than being evicted ;) ) and go back to sleep cuddled up next to your hand. Staffords are incredible tacticle dogs and some way more so than others. They can't seem to get the same comfort from fingers through the bars of a crate - to say nothing of how uncomfortable that is for you! ETA: slowly slowly over 7-10 days you can probably get the pup into a crate at night. Me, I would recommend the pup sleeps in the same room as you until it is about 10-11 weeks old then slowly move it out to where you want it to be. I wouldn't be surprised if you find this dog is one of those that always sits on your feet - common Stafford trait! Too late for that tonight - frankly I would have the pup on the bed and start fresh in the morning. The pup isn't going to become a raving monster from two nights on the bed - honest!

Sometimes when a dog is stressed it will show more of it's third eyelid than normal. If the vet's happy I'd give it a few days - keep the breeder updated though.

Not disagreeing, but in the original post it is stated the dog has been mated to three bitches. Maybe they don't all or maybe none of them belong to the OP but I read it as if they were 3 bitches of their own (maybe I'm wrong). Newcomers don't have three bitches of breeding age which are all ideal mates for a single dog in a space of 8 months....

The agents get cheaper prices, and now with the rule changes in some places you can't book direct yourself.

x2 And the breeder is the person to be talking to - if you have a written contract and want to persue it then it should stand. Mind you I have had a written undertaking to send me a puppy in lieu of a stud fee paid when there were no pups and after 25 years I think I've given up waiting!

My non booking was booked through the Canberra office - deal with them directly because of the DOL brains trust :D

Last time I used dogtainers they forgot to book the flight for the puppy even though they took the new owner's money off his credit card. Not amused to be at the airport at 7am on a Sunday with no booking and the new owners had driven to the destination airport the night before so were even less amused. All good in the end thanks to the much maligned freight department staff.

On the basis that you have no proof the dog has ever even mated these bitches as in actually penetrated and ejaculated, why is he assumed to be at fault? If there has been no known mating there can't be any pups. Yes I have had pups from slip matings but on every single occasion the people attending to the mating have actually seen the dog penetrate and held the pair together sometimes for a minute, sometimes for longer. Semen test for the dog would be a simple place to start, and do you know for a fact that the bitches he is attempting to mate are even receptive at the time he is trying?