Sandra777

Just a quick answer because searching for the other threads will probably help more... DNA from the pups, the dam and all the possible sires needs to be provided in the form of swabs. These would be sent directly to the lab you choose to do the DNA profile (any of the ones that deal with dogs are able to do this and will provide the swabs and the forms). From memory it's not particularly expensive but check out each lab ($20? $30? per pup, could be remembering wrong but it's not hundreds!) I would assume you are talking about dogs registered with working dog registers rather than just random working dogs which you want to know the sire of just because you want to know :laugh:. You would need to check with the relevant register about what they require - probably a microchip identifying each pup and a vet to take the swabs & verify which pup is which on the forms I would think. No need for any sort of specialist to be involved if it's all natural matings, any vet should be able to microchip and take a cheek swab.

I own Staffords and I am definitely more concerned about being rushed by a bull breed than say a collie or lab type - for the simple fact that if a collie or lab cross type dog gets past being booted by ME I am pretty confident my dogs will take care of it. Horrible way of thinking? - sure is, but in reality that's the only way to size up an aggressive rushing dog! I understand completely where people with smaller breeds or softer breeds are coming from when they say they are afraid of being rushed by a bull breed cross type most - they WILL do the most damage if a fight ensues and this has always got to be the first concern for anyone who cares for their own dog. Yes it does seem to be that in many areas the loose dogs are bull breed cross types, but fifteen years ago I still had Staffords and the majority of rushing nasty dogs were ACD cross types and ten years before that, GSD cross types. The loose dogs in my neighbourhood are SWFs or small terrier crosses (JRT/Fox Terrier types) - the big dogs/bull breeds are all well fenced.

People do it because other people do it, and because in some breeds a dog would be disadvantaged by having it's coat messed up from underneath. And as long as there are people that tell them that it's ok to lift a dog that way, there will be people that think it's ok to do. Peer pressure works in negative ways as well as positive. Dogs are prone to all of the usual spinal injuries and conditions that humans and other animals are. There is nothing I can find to suggest that their spines can take stresses like this. The type of injury that might result might be back pain that isn't going to be immediately obvious to its owner. A dog that is regularly held in this way is probably going to learn very quickly that it is more comfortable to tolerate the handling than to try to struggle against it Just because something has always been done, doesn't mean it is the right thing to do. Unless somebody can show evidence that proves a dog's back is has the mechanical abilities to be supported between chin and tail only, we should probably assume that it is uncomfortable for the dog, as it would be for most vertebrates. It's not really acceptable to do something like this just because everyone else does it. No need to get cross at anyone. The OP is genuine, and if there is evidence that shows a dog's spine is designed for that type of stress load, it would be good if you could share it. I never said it may not be uncomfortable for the dog my statement was that it wasn't BAD for the dog. We do lots of things every day to ourselves/kids/dogs/cats/horses/rats/goldfish which all may well be uncomfortable but which aren't actively doing harm. And "ruffling the coat" would hardly be an issue in the Smooth Fox Terrier for example, to say nothing of the terrier breeds which were lifted like this LONG before the insane floor-length coat on a earth dog became vogue!

I know you're only asking a genuine question but it makes me a bit cross. People have been lifting dogs off tables at dog shows like this for probably 100+ years. Why would you believe people would continue to do it if it hurts or is any way bad for the dog? If it was something cruel/unkind/bad for the dog it WOULD have been stopped by peer pressure long ago. The majority of show people are genuine dog people who are concerned about the welfare of their dogs - even if some are only concerned that the dog isn't hurt so it can win the next show!

x2

Definitely separate them, it doesn't take much for an older dog to accidentally harm a pup. Depending on your back yard you could confine her one day and him the next, but in the average yard it would usually be best to confine the pup. As for feeding - feed her first thing in the morning, leave her with some food-toys (kong, puzzle ball etc) and perhaps a big meaty bone every second day and feed her when you get home then later in the evening. Thousands of pups have grown in to perfectly healthy adults and not been fed in the middle of the day. Good luck with your new pup, it will be hard for you not to worry I know!

They can't come as excess baggage, only as freight. Only a registered agent can make a booking with the airline and them or a representative must be actually present when the dogs are presented at the freight counter but this doesn't mean they have to ever even actually touch the dogs, you or the breeder can do the whole process yourself except for the actual booking. I would recommend Dog Power (Auckland & Christchurch)

So the people you know are the people who own the bitches who are best suited to his pedigree and conformation? If someone with the ideal bitch for him wanted to use him but you didn't know them they couldn't use him? Sorry, that's not responsible dog breeding, that's just weird!

We have four. Last April one of our dogs got a very large brown snake in the yard. Last September the same dog got a black in the yard. In November we installed snake repellers. We haven't seen a snake since. Does this mean they work? Your guess is as good as mine. Unfortunately we back on to a floodway and there's not much we can do about what washes down that or how the council choose to mow it (or not). Everyone who backs on to it mows out 12-15 feet from their fence line so there's only about 12-15 feet in the middle which is long, but it's wet, reedy and full of frogs and no doubt snakes.

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Animals shed according the hours of daylight, not the temperature. Perfectly normal for her to shed her "summer" coat then grow a "winter" coat, but it could be because of the lack of hormones that she never actually sheds quite as normal. Just keep brushing! :laugh:

My understanding of the law is it's not a matter of refusing to allow the dog to be seized (unless you're talking about an armed siege situation ) It is illegal to own an unregistered dog "of type" in the same way it is illegal to own drugs - both can be seized under the law and if you resist you could be arrested and the dog/drugs would be seized anyway. Yes I understand what you mean - you wouldn't just hand your boy over and forget him, but you really need to understand how serious the situation could become.

Thug - the sookiest Rottie I've ever met. We pinched this one and named a pup Thug, unfortunately he wasn't a keeper Name, yep that's right they couldn't think of one We had a black cat called Leonardo da Vinci when we were kids - I have no idea why! (This was years before the Da Vinci Code)

As your dog already has issues with his immune system I would really suggest you think twice about using the all in one over kill products. Absolutely, if you are in a heartworm area give him heartworm preventative (personally I use Heartgard), but as for intestinal worming I would suggest you think about getting a fecal count done on a regular basis and treating him for worms only if and when they are present. How often is "regular" - to me that would depend on his environment - is he on a farm/in the bush, are their children to be considered?

Thanks coogie - yes the nail itself is still there it's the hard outer horn he's managed to remove - don't even want to know how he did that! Basically he has a full nail but with no protective shell. Ouchy! He's being very brave though :)

I'm almost sure I'm right but just want to be sure :) Dallas has ripped basically the whole of the horn (hard outside part) off a front nail, the outside toe if it matters. This will only grow back from the nail bed won't it? The horn doesn't regrow like skin does it? Best course of action - what suggestions do people have. I really really really want him to be sound ASAP not just for himself but because there's a double weekend of specialist shows Easter and the weekend after. I would have thought having it cut off close to the toe would be the quickest and best? It doesn't seem to bother him and has stopped bleeding but is obviously not going to stand up to long term use and infection is always a worry.

I've found most of mine go off very quickly if they've conceived. Whether the hormonal or scientific or anything else evidence suggests otherwise this has been what I have observed. Obviously it is different for every bitch.

Stand her up on her back legs, and if the rear two nipples point sideways it's a yes :) Fanny sightly moist has always been a better sign for me than staying enlarged as with mine some take ages to go back to their normal size.

What sort of dog do you like - short haired, long haired, short nose, long nose, super laid back (unlikely since you own a Sibe :laugh: ) super active. Are you looking for a baby puppy, older puppy or adult? What sort of life style can you offer the dog - inside, outside, lots of exercise, little exercise, obedience training, trailling, agility. And the biggy - why do you think your dog wants a friend? Do YOU want a second dog - worst thing you can do is get a pet for your dog when you don't want two dogs :D

I have done CGC in NZ with a Stafford, she was the first to get to Silver. There was a sit stay, but the emphasis was on the stay not the sit, I could put her into the sit rather than give a command for her to sit. There was a drop on recall but it should have been a STOP on recall, as long as the dog stopped when told the position didn't matter. To me this is day-to-day "obedience". Definitely not the precision of formal obedience. Everything was more about the dog paying attention to the owner rather than the dog being precise and perfect which IMO is obedience in the real world.

Staffords - weightpull has no relevance to their original function but some of them certainly enjoy it. Hanging off a piece of material on a frame has even less relevance to their original function but some of them enjoy that too. Most of mine love lure racing (straight line or proper lure coursing) and this doesn't have much to do with their original function either. The ET test would have some bearing on their function, to be able to be physically active for a long period of time and be sound enough to achieve that level of fitness. Breeds with no easily replicated test (or those with no testable function at all such as the companion breeds) can be tested for basic good temperament, trainability and soundness by a mixture of other things which probably has nothing to do with the original function of the dog but handily proves it's ability to be active and fit and live in the 21st century.

Any reason why you don't then?

To me your options are: Train her to pee in only one place Water (liberally!) immediately after she has peed Live with it

Woolies ones, 100 for a couple of dollars. Not huge though so if you have big poopers it might be better to check out different brands. :laugh:

You bought him as an Amstaff? - Sorry I don't remember the back story. IMO he looks like a cross bred and I would be VERY concerned about him being classified as "of type". He's a handsome healthy looking dog, but that really isn't the question :)