Sandra777

I have had a dog die on the vet's table within 5 minutes of vaccination so IME reactions are nothing to be sneezed at. Check the batch and make SURE it is reported to the manufacturer.

Clean, swimming pools, sandpits - so what. They are mass producing dogs for NO reason except $$$$$. They are commercially breeding companion animals for the mass market. That makes them a puppy farm. They could be keeping their breeding stock in penthouse suites overlooking Sydney harbour for all I care - it's still going to be a FARM.

They're all individuals. Is he teething at the moment, that sometimes takes a lot out of them. To me it sounds like he gets a lot of stimulation (good thing!) which wears out their brains, physical exercise isn't the only thing that makes a puppy tired. Is he different in any way to what he was like last week? If this is a sudden thing a vet check (bloods, heart, urine) might be in order - if he's always been a more tired pup and seems normal in every other way then perhaps just wait and see.

Are you in a position to take the dog, have it desexed and rehome him yourself? Apart from the lack of toilet training (or is is just he pees and poos "all over" outside??) does he have any issues? - anything that actually need the resources of a rescue?

He obviously enjoys dismantling things so make him some toy puzzles - get old T-shirts or polar fleece type material or other stretchy stuff and tie knots in them - some small some big. Usually you'd hide treats in some knots but as this isn't going to work for you, you could get a small piece of cloth and spray it with a different scent and ties that inside some of the knots. Mine love their puzzles...

Poor dog! PLEASE stop shoving worm pills down the throats of dogs which obviously aren't doing well!!!!!! Good food, a warm place to sleep and no more randomly administered drugs to upset her stomach and I hope she improves. Supercoat and Pal ? ETA: stuffing her full of food she's not used to after gastro and being underweight and being wormed will probably make her feel worse, not better

So sorry Lisey

Your first call should be to the breeder. Personally I would return him however that is entirely a personal decision.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Oh dear, that's a bit

To me it would depend on what sized pup, how long it's going to be confined and what other arrangements you can make for it's toileting. If you have a small breed puppy you need to leave alone for 8-10 hours while you work then a crate is obviously out of the question and the pen would be it s back yard as you mentioned with the crate providing a separate space for it's bed. In these circumstances I think most people would provide an alternative to just paper or tiles for toileting such as a piece of turf in a tray or artifical turf or a indoor dog toilet. Me, my pups are outside in a fenced area with their toys and kennel so they never get in the habit of thinking toileting inside is OK. When we're home they're out and not crated, they are confined to their puppy run if we need to put them somewhere out of the way while we're home. Obviously this isn't going to suit everyone. They are crated later in life, 4 or so months old onwards, at night but when we're away from home our dogs are in runs with kennels.

The registration number doesn't change with the change of ownership. Obviously the membership number does :laugh:

Your statement is unfortunately incorrect. Actually advocate DOES PREVENT worms and fleas. It is unique in that the Active ingredients ie. moxidectin and imidicloprid work very differently to all other treatments.. Re worms: the active ingredient of moxidectin disperses through the skin and is dissemminated to the required internal organs via the bloodstream to the various sites, organs and muscles. unlike other wormers that circulate ONCE through the GI tracts. Advocate is the only product that kills all intestinal worms (and all larval stages of such) ie hookworm, whipworm, roundworm (of various species) and heartworm too. Advocate actually can treat heartworm affected dogs, although it is a particularly slow method of treatment of this affliction , Advocate also PREVENTS acquiring any new infections of all intestinal worms and heartworm by way of acheiving what is called "Steady State" Blood plasma levels rise and fall for the first 3 months of treatment and accumulate each time until the plasma level acheives steady state, whereby your pet is now unable to get infected by new worms at all. Using advocate kills and evacuates accumulated worms, then PROTECTS them against getting any new ones regardless of the exposure to worms in any form ie environment, faeces ect. With regard to tapeworm, dogs and cats get tapeworm from ingesting FLEAS. If your dog has been treated or is on flea control your pets cannot get tapeworm. Advocate does not do tapeworm because it keeps your pets flea free. If you have NEVER treated for fleas then you could worm once with a tapewormer ie droncit when commencing with advocate. After that point ( if you use advocate) there is no use treating for tapeworm because your pet wont have it. Imidicloprid is 100% effective to kill fleas (on contact) and other external parasites and has full efficacy for the whole month of treatment. Fleas do not bite to get a dose and they are killed within 3 - 5 minutes. Flea Allergy dermatitis is caused by the saliva of the flea biting. Imidicloprid disperses to, then sits in the lipid layer of skin which is waterfast. It is where the hair follicles originate so each hair shaft is hosting the active ingredient for the full one month. Advocate also treats Demodectic and sarcoptic mange mites, ear mites, lice. Advocate therefore is the best PROTECTION for all parasites. You DO NOT NEED TO TEST FOR HEARTWORM PRIOR TO USE OF ADVOCATE. IT is 100% effective for prevention of heartworm too. I hope this helps. Nothing can PREVENT a dog getting fleas/worms in to it's system/on it's skin if it is exposed to them except perhaps a force field or plastic wrap. The product could well kill better and faster than any other product but it can not physically PREVENT the worms/fleas in whatever form actually entering/touching the dog's body - simple logic suggests the worms/fleas/whatever have to enter or touch the dog's body in order for a product in/on the dog's body to kill them. Whether it is better or faster acting than any other product is a totally different argument - but AFAIK it is not a flea-and-worm-repelling force field. Your whole advertising spiel is wasted on me - I'm definitely opposed to such constant and unnecessary chemical exposure for my dogs.

By the same logic one should never feed bone and meat in the same meal - bone stays in the stomach until it is sufficiently broken down to move in to the intestine while the meat is broken down more quickly and moves on. The digestive system is a wonderful thing - especially the stomach acids of a healthy dog.

Nothing can PREVENT fleas or worms - everything on the market kills the fleas and worms AFTER the dog has them!

I've always started them on scraped beef - get a lump of cheap beef (stewing steak is usually good) and scrape off the meat with a small serrated knife - leaves all the fat and sinewy bits behind. They get a lump about as big the top of my thumb 3 or 4 times over a matter of 2 days or so (these are Stafford pups, 3.5 to 4 weeks old). Next meal is the highest quality human beef mince I can get and they get a piece about the size of a golf ball twice a day for 2 or 3 days - then they get chicken wings as the next meal and go up from there. They usually get a meal of mince with some dry food, a meal of meaty bones and a meal of sardines or eggs or cheese with some big chewing type biscuits (I use Greyhound biscuits) or just more meaty bones I never soak the dry food and I don't use milk to wean pups - that's what mum is for! ETA: obviously this isn't 100% raw :laugh: I am realistic enough to know most people aren't going to feed 100% raw so I like to get the pups used to dry food early. Some Staffords have beef allergies, so I introduce this early too - no idea if it's sound reasoning but I don't have dogs with beef allergies.

Great outcome indeed!

Feeling his ribs is a good thing - you should always be able to feel a dog's ribs no matter what age. Yep, eating up everything offered quickly is a great thing - no fussy puppy there! If the breeder experienced in the breed and ethical they are by far the best people to tell you how best to raise your pup. I can't see the photo :)

How old is she? If she's only a baby puppy and that size I would go with my first instinct which was those eyes belong to a Stafford. As for the rest, a standing up shot might help :laugh:

How big is Phoebe and I assume that's not a real snake

It's my understanding that so long as the dog is covered by SOMETHING it's OK - so if you stopped Advocate and started a monthly chew instead of plonking on more Advocate at the monthly interval you'd just give the dog a chew at that time instead. If you decided to go daily, on the day the Advocate is due you'd give the dog a pill instead and keep doing that every day after that. If you decided to go annual injection this would be given when the Advocate is due again. Really simple :D

How can they do this if it is against the rules for them to not register all the pups in the litter?

If you really want to know if your dogs have a worm burden or not, get a vet to do a fecal count and act appropriately. As far as fleas go - IMO it's better to treat as necessary not "just in case" BUT if you live in a house which hasn't been well maintained in the past or has cats wandering through/under or you are just plain unlucky, the fleas in the environment could cause you big problems. There's no harm in stopping the use of Advocate and seeing what happens through the cooler months - unless you have a dog with a flea allergy :) - check the dogs regularly, maintain the environment and see what happens.

Genuine question then - if a breeder lives in a state when the CC requires all pups born to be registered, what are they meant to do if they have a white pup in the litter?

There are opposings studies that suggest the opposite is actually true and neutered dogs have a considerably higher rate of prostrate cancer than entire dogs. OP - I have never owned a neutered dog and have never had issues with marking, humping or any other "thing" people blame on hormones. Ultimately the choice is yours alone but whatever you decide please do NOT neuter him until he is fully grown which could be getting on for 12-18 months for a Cane Corso. Honestly your best bet would be to discuss this in full with the breeder, assuming they have experience in the breed.