Sandra777

To a point I agree with you jettyjet - how we keep our dogs is a matter of personal choice, however OP is wanting to buy a breed which seriously does not do well if separated from their family. If they were wanting a more independent dog then that's fine, but the breed they are interested in is a people breed and is not suited to being an outside dog for temperament reasons and because of the cold intolerance factors.

Personally I would never sell a Stafford puppy to be an outside or kennel dog. I would urge you to reconsider the idea of buying a Staffordshire Bull Terrier (if this is what you mean by "staffy") if you are not going to allow it to be part of your family. Staffords are utterly miserable if separated from their people - and if they are raised separate from their people you will never see the true nature of the breed you have chosen. I find it very difficult to believe that you don't have room in your house for a 2.5 foot square dog bed - a Stafford doesn't need any more room than that to sleep.

It doesn't matter what sort of food you feed - you are going to have to adjust the amount according to weather and activity (and, ultimately, age) so just let your hands and eyes be your guide and get to know your dog. No different to feeding yourself - some days you do more so want/need more, if you spend the day lying on the couch you want/need less. People tend to eat more in winter to keep warm and dogs are no different. I feed raw food, whole pieces not minced and at the moment some dry food because we don't have a large freezer right now. With one dog, frankly I would be feeding him table scraps (no cooked bones EVER), some mince, the occasional egg, the odd tin of sardines and either whole chicken carcases or some decent dry food. Variety works and is much appreciated! The only thing would be if your dog has allergy issues you have to be more careful, if he doesn't then he can eat virtually anything you'd feel comfortable feeding a two or three year old child (so no spicy food, curries, salty stuff)

I have had a dog choke and die on a brisket bone. I know of 2 other dogs of the same breed which have choked and died on brisket bones. Hasn't put me off raw feeding, has put me off brisket bone. ETA: I was present when my dog choked, I can't comment on the other 2 dogs.

Yes that's quite true Nekhbet - it takes a dog about 3 minutes choke to death on a bone - but it seems like three hours when you are struggling to save their life. I couldn't.

Scraped beef, run a serrated knife over a piece of stewing steak or whatever is cheap and give them a piece the size of the end of you little finger the first time, then twice that much the second time. They only get the "pure meat", no gristle or fat. They only get this for a few days then on to high quality human grade mince. I don't use milk or cereal, I've always weaned pups straight on to meat.

I have done a frame in a blender - I pulled it into five or six pieces but it came out very "spiky" and I chucked it away. I only did this to see if it would work - dogs were used to getting whole frames. This was a heavy duty blender, not a $20 job from Target ;) If you aren't comfortable feeding your dog chicken frames then for goodness sake don't do it, why put yourself through so much stress! If I was giving something like this to my dog for the first time I'd give it to the dog whole and watch what happens, but that's my way of dealing with lots of things

This is a FOURTEEN week old puppy. Puppies of this age do not tend to suddenly turn up with human aggression problems - they have pushing the boundary problems OP says this is something that has happened only in the past 2-3 days. Also this puppy was removed from the litter at 6 weeks and placed in a home with a first time owner who has asked some very basic questions in the past few weeks me these are all very clear warning signs of what might be going on, and it doesn't include the puppy suddenly becoming a human aggressive monster. I have done this exact same thing on three occasions to Staffords between 11 and 14 weeks, I have not been bitten (have been threatened) and only had to do it twice to one puppy, once to the other two. Two were puppies I hadn't raised myself, the third was a singleton puppy 6 months - adolescent. Wrong advice IMO. Alpha role an adolescent and that's what happens.

I believe so - don't do Cesar, never seen him do his version of the alpha roll and totally disagree with it being used on adults or adolescents. I always make sure I am mimicking an adult dog's stance as well as a person can - on all fours, body over the puppy (or at very least, pup between my "forelegs", even if his body is sticking out to oneside), my head over their head (watch that you don't get bitten even if he doesn't mean it 'nastily') Definitely nothing harsh - just very matter of fact and projecting the whole aura of "I am so sure of myself that I don't need to yell or scream or smack - you will just do it" You don't have to wait until he starts his silly nonsense - very quietly and non-threateningly do it anyway. It's NOT a "punishment", it's a learning experience for him and a confidence booster for you. on his side. I totally disagree with forcing a puppy onto it's back, but if you push him onto his side and he rolls partly or completely onto his back of his own free will then that is the genuine thing that the subordinate offers the dominant dog (the dominant dog never pushes the subordinant onto it's back, the subordinant rolls there) Nah, let him win - but only when you want to, and only if he knows "stop" or "give" pretty reliably (reliable depends on age, make some allowances for a happy puppy ) Start when he's a bit tired, sit on the floor and hold him against your sort of on your lap but he can stand up if he wants. Give him a firm but not really gooshy affectionate cuddle holding his whole body against you and putting some pressure on him with your arm. Don't let him go until he relaxes and accepts it. Bit by bit work up to him lying on his side or back on your lap while you wiggle his feet and legs, (gently!) pull his ears, lips and tail etc. The dominant dog can touch the submissive dog anywhere and anytime they choose, so mimic that. Beg borrow or buy Jean Donaldson's "Culture Clash", about half of it is quite training focused which you might not find relevant, but it explains things in a way that will probably make you think of things for yourself that will work in your situation.

I am a bit unsure of what you mean here? Help if I took the extra d away? Check the weight of the chicken carcase, check how many chicken wings make up the same weight, take one away. I think your puppy is broken. A whole day to eat a chicken carcase - must be too well fed

It's hard to say what is actually happening with the conflicting parts of the story in different posts, but if this is not a constant behaviour for Oscar and has only just started, I would suggest you do something that will no doubt get me roasted. I have had a couple of pups that "suddenly" seem to be "aggressive" and at about this age too..... They are generally cocky little sods and often spoilt, have never really got a good telling off from one of the adult dogs and have learned they can have their version of fun (which isn't the same as ours!) without getting "in trouble" Next time he tries this hustle straight up to him, grab him by the skin on the top of his shoulder and push him down onto the ground sort of with your fore-arm along his shoulder and use your weight - at the same time get on your knees and loom over him, your chest and shoulders right over the top of him and 8-10 inches above him - you want to do a stand-over like an adult dog would do. Stare straight at him. No need to yell, growl or shake, just shove him down and take a dominant stance. If he struggles use your weight (through your forearm, don't grip his skin tighter, this isn't about physical pain/punishment) to push him down, and keep staring at him. If he tries to bite say a very firm no in a growly voice and sort of use your elbow to deflect his head (put pressure on his neck to keep his head down). He might squeak and whimper, this is saying "oh s**t I'm sorry!", in which case don't increase the pressure but don't decrease either (be careful there, if you decrease the pressure he'll think that growling/biting/struggling is the way to make you stop). The vast majority of puppies will stop struggling within 10 or 15 seconds and lie limply. Keep holding him down and staring at him for maybe another 3 or 4 seconds (as if to say, "right - now don't forget") then get up and walk away. He will probably come after you all full of apologies, but ignore him for 20-30 seconds then very slowly warm up to him and allow him to snuggle - but don't engage in any vigorous or exciting play, just let him sit or lie beside you and do not fuss him. This is a form of Alpha Rolling which is a concept I absolutely disagree with when dealing with an adult or adolescent dog, but with a puppy I have found it does work in almost all cases. If he gets really aggressive if you do this do not do it again, get professional help. Have you been doing any sort of exercises with him that reinforce that you are stronger (physically and mentally?) Assuming you conqueror this problem easily and don't get other advice from a professional I would suggest you do another exercise with him that I always tell people to do - make him stay still while your holding him - hold him firmly against your body and do not release him until he submits. I do this with my pups from the time they're 4 or 5 weeks old, and within a couple of days most will lie flat on the palm of your hand(s) and just melt as you do tummy rubs - it's about trust and also about confidence that people will always be stronger than the dog (physically, mentally, any which way) and will always win whatever "battle" is on offer.

Check the weights and sort out and equal amount by weight then take away one wing as wings tend to be fattier than the carcases The thing with wings is they go down quicker, the carcase takes a little while longer (well that's they way it works here with pups ) that the longer the dog is chewing etc the more chance the brain has on catching up with the message that 'we've been fed". Same as people - apparently in people it takes 20 minutes? for the 'I'm full' signal to get from stomach to brain. Frozen's fine if it suits you to do it that way - slows them down & is much appreciated in summer too.

I would be concerned about them playing together unsupervised for long periods of time, if they were left alone together all day for example, but normally playing together when you're home should be fine. Discourage them from playing on or near steps or a deck or anything like that the pup could fall off - they're very good at doing sudden dashes away from the other dog while playing and not looking where they're going. If playing outside and Kit starts doing mad 'zoomies' - running around at full speed as if with a bee up her butt - then I would remove the pup from the way, maybe she doesn't do this, if she does you'll know what I mean When adults get in this state they don't do well at looking where they're going either! She should be fine with the pup until he's about 4 or 5 months old, perhaps a bit older, then you may well notice her getting quite a lot more short with him and this is normal - until their puppy license runs out most normal dogs will let a puppy do virtually anything to them. Make sure she has time on her own to do her own stuff with you without the pup hanging off her every second as no matter how patient they are this must be very annoying. The pup also has to learn to be alone, so don't be tempted to treat Kit as a permanent babysitter even though it is easier - pup needs to learn that pup can be alone just as if he was the only dog.

I'd be very surprised if she was - but I have put a tiny light leash on babies in all sorts of odd situations long before they're "lead trained" and if they need to pee, they sure do pee!

Again, no offal. This isn't prey model. Heart isn't offal.

I wouldn't stop at these places - instead go down a side road and stop in an out-of-the-way place (not a picnic spot by a lake for example) - somewhere it is unlikely anyone else would have stopped and toileted their dog. Take a lead and collar and use them. If it's a very quiet road and you park on a straight you could even possibly get away with toileting pup in the middle of the road (be careful with that advice!)

L2 & HC are both recessive so clear x carrier could never produce an affected, This is the same for any simple recessive gene. Parentage check as in who's your daddy? well yes, DNA proof of parentage is becoming a good thing to do, and is cheap. Speaking only of Staffords now... if you are an ethical breeder breeding an HC or L2 carrier it is generally accepted that the breeder does DNA test to establish which pups are carriers and which are clear. Most people would say that the carrier puppies are held until they are neutered and all carrier puppies should be sold as a pet only - but if you were selling to someone you had a long on-going relationship with this might be a bit different. Personally I would never sell a carrier puppy except as a pet (neutered). No one should buy a Stafford puppy without sighting the L2 & HC certificates for both parents. Unethical people shouldn't be breeding, let alone with carriers.

Why should breeders not breed from a carrier if they know what they're doing? Yes we breed to improve the breed but "breeding out the defects" - most breeders I know breed for health & temperament first, then breed for VIRTUES. People trying to "breed out defects" tend to end up with mediocre dogs. Well, if you neuter the carriers then you don't have this problem. With major genetic issues breeding from a carrier is really only acceptable if you then DNA test and neuter the ones you are not keeping control over.

Please get a new vet - the one you have is being dangerously irresponsible with your puppy's LIFE So many chemicals, so much challenge to a baby's immune system.....

Not what I'd call prey model. Definitely doesn't sound right to me No bone content, no fibre/roughage/no offal (heart is a muscle meat) Give the poor little guys a chicken wing

If you've had him since 8 weeks and he's had flea treatment applied to him twice by the vet I just gotta ask - how much of the vet clinic do you own Two applications in 6 weeks is bordering on more than I would be comfortable with. Check him for fleas (they will be VERY easy to spot on a whitey) and if he doesn't have any do not put any more chemicals on him until you've got his itchies sorted. If you have tick issues go for another option... Blankets - well that's really a matter of trial and error. Plain cotton sheets with a cotton baby blanket cuddly type thing would be "safest" in most cases. I use a lot of those fleece blankets and don't have a problem, but they don't wear well with puppies. Go through your local salvos and see what choices you have. Almost without exception natural fibres are best, except for pure wool which will react with some (I'm allergic to wool myself) hmmmm have had a number of dogs over time who itch like mad when that stuff's around. There's natural alternatives.. Again, there are natural alternatives. Or even just use hot soapy water for a couple of weeks and see if makes any difference. Supermarket or butcher. Just use human grade food to start with. Nope, not cheap in some cases but if it helps you know you're on the right track

flead him "several times" - how old is the pup, how often are you applying it, what product are you using? Also, he could be reacting to something in his environment - change his blankets to a different type, wash them in something other than the usual washing powder, what have you been using in the way of floor cleaners? Also, different grasses can make them react, sprays on grasses, fertiliser on the lawn etc etc etc etc Also some dogs with a slight sensativity get in the habit of licking a chewing which causes the skin to be more sensitive even after the allergen is removed, so in effect they're making themselves itchy by itching. My beef-sensitive bitch is also roo sensitive so maybe drop roo and try for chicken turkey fish and lamb (OK maybe one at a time but these are usually not too bad). Dry food can do weird things, my sensitive one can eat Supercoat but reacts to Royal Canin and Eagle Pack I'd give the premium ones a trial and see what works, try to get trial sized packs or get ones with a right of return.

Teach her "nice" as in the ONLY way to take food/toy from a person is the gentle way. She's a baby so will forget and be impetuous and snatch on occasions but if she knows 'nice' she'll have some idea what's acceptable. I'm also a big believer in you get the treat when your mouth is moving away or motionless, never ever when your lips/teeth are touching my hand. Very easy to teach, and very cute to see them starting to move towards your fingers then suddenly remembering, jerking their head back fractionally and giving you the "aren't I good I remembered!" look. Offer the treat in a way that it's impossible for the dog to get access to it, hold firm while they poke and prode and lick and nibble, eventually they'll get frustrated and pull their head back to study the situation, then the treat appears - instantly appearing is the key to begin with, as they get older they can wait for a second or two or three :-)